After years of riding i admittedly blip the throttle down when using the quick-shifter. Yesterday i realized there is no need to blip the throttle and it works perfectly up and down. Adjusting the clutch play and the shifter height is crucial to enjoying the experience. thanks for the advice!
Hey Gravity, I'd like to know more about how garbage the quickshifter was prior to getting it fixed. Was it simply not working? or was it working but just shifting harshly? I ask as I just got a second-hand svart and while using my quickshift it shifts pretty harshly and makes me not ever want to use it as I can use my clutch for substantially smoother shifts, even as a new rider (tho comfortable with clutch work on manual transmission cars). This makes me wonder if my clutch might just need adjusting to get my quickshift to work smoothly instead of the donkey kick it currently is.
It worked "most" of the time with a very solid kick. Sometimes it did not work. I'd say maybe 75% of the time it worked. When I got it back from the shop, they had tightened the clutch cable (too far, in my opinion) so it was really hard for me to manually shift, but the quickshifter was working like butter. Beautiful! I introduced slack into the clutch cable and the quickshifter returned to its garbage state of working. So I kept messing with it. I mostly adjusted down on the right side. Ended up not as tight as the dealership shop had done it, but gave up some play in the clutch in favor of the quickshifter performance. What your describing sounds consistent. Hopefully the answer is to adjust it. You can experiment by tightening (increase the amount of tension) in that clutch cable. It's easy to do, and easy to "un-do." Personally, if that didn't work, I would wait for my next scheduled service and point out specifically if they could check the quickshifter (in the hope of having it covered by regular service checks where they inspect and adjust all that stuff, instead of a specific maintenance activity I have to pay for).
Hi, i have a svartpilen 401 2019 and im having issues with the clutch, when i rev the bike on a gear its rev to the max without acceleration i mean i have a acceleration but minimal and every gear feels the same i cant get any speed i think that is call slipping, i dont think my clutch is burned i saw your video and my cable is diferent when i grab the clutch its very tight
It’s easy enough to adjust the tension and see if it helps. But if that doesn’t help then I would take it in. I’ve seen others with nuts on the same side. As long as they hold their place and the tension is good, should be fine. I suspect the tension is too low to the left side of the mechanism, so it can’t properly engage. But hard to know. Again, worth playing with it to see if it helps because you can always screw it back. Just remember how many turns you did and in what direction so you can easily undo whatever you do. 😃
Hey Gravity, how has your bike been long term with the fuel x lite, k&n filter and dna airbox cover? I'm asking because I saw some dust in my airbox going from the filter to the throttle body (that pipe behind filter) and it was very fine dust that doesnt make your finger dirty and I am not sure if that was there since getting the bike as I did not check until after putting the k&n in as I was too excited to ride haha the bike only has just under 800 miles on it
No issues really. I had to tighten a few things, but 2 years and nothing really to report. I'm going to record a 2 year review pretty soon, and the spoiler alert is ... haven't had any issues. I've been running the K&N, DNA, and FuelX for about a year and a half now, and smooth as can be.
It was activated right away when I got it, and it worked okay but not great. It wasn’t until I did the 4650 service and the dealership had tightened the clutch tension that it worked perfectly. I played around with it and was able to make it “garbage” again by reducing the tension. Then I recalibrated it and it’s great!
I have 2023 svartpilen 401. I'm scared to ever shift without the clutch. Won't my transmission explode if the quick shifter doesn't perfectly do it's job?
My quickshifter failed all the time when I first got the motorcycle. Once I adjusted it, it’s been working great, but the failure is more annoying than anything. You think you’re shifting up gear and then you’re not - just in the same gear as before. Annoying and frustrating. Two years and haven’t had my mechanical problems that needed to be repaired.
When it fails, it just doesn't change gears; I haven't had a grinding effect. The manual indicates the RPM range to be in for using the easy shift (quickshifter). For upshift I'm usually up close to where the shift indicator comes on. For downshift I'm usually around 3500 RPMs when coming to a stop, but on the highway when I'm between 50 and 80 Miles Per Hour, you'll want to downshift to get more power even when you're up in the 6500+ RPM range. That's all "ballpark" because honestly, you get a feel for it the more you ride and understand how the bike is going to respond when you want more or less power, etc., so these days I'm not really paying close attention ... just riding and focusing on the ride.
After years of riding i admittedly blip the throttle down when using the quick-shifter. Yesterday i realized there is no need to blip the throttle and it works perfectly up and down. Adjusting the clutch play and the shifter height is crucial to enjoying the experience. thanks for the advice!
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Gravity, I'd like to know more about how garbage the quickshifter was prior to getting it fixed. Was it simply not working? or was it working but just shifting harshly? I ask as I just got a second-hand svart and while using my quickshift it shifts pretty harshly and makes me not ever want to use it as I can use my clutch for substantially smoother shifts, even as a new rider (tho comfortable with clutch work on manual transmission cars). This makes me wonder if my clutch might just need adjusting to get my quickshift to work smoothly instead of the donkey kick it currently is.
It worked "most" of the time with a very solid kick. Sometimes it did not work. I'd say maybe 75% of the time it worked.
When I got it back from the shop, they had tightened the clutch cable (too far, in my opinion) so it was really hard for me to manually shift, but the quickshifter was working like butter. Beautiful!
I introduced slack into the clutch cable and the quickshifter returned to its garbage state of working. So I kept messing with it. I mostly adjusted down on the right side. Ended up not as tight as the dealership shop had done it, but gave up some play in the clutch in favor of the quickshifter performance.
What your describing sounds consistent. Hopefully the answer is to adjust it. You can experiment by tightening (increase the amount of tension) in that clutch cable. It's easy to do, and easy to "un-do."
Personally, if that didn't work, I would wait for my next scheduled service and point out specifically if they could check the quickshifter (in the hope of having it covered by regular service checks where they inspect and adjust all that stuff, instead of a specific maintenance activity I have to pay for).
Hi, i have a svartpilen 401 2019 and im having issues with the clutch, when i rev the bike on a gear its rev to the max without acceleration i mean i have a acceleration but minimal and every gear feels the same i cant get any speed i think that is call slipping, i dont think my clutch is burned i saw your video and my cable is diferent when i grab the clutch its very tight
I saw the nuts and they are the 2 of them in one side, the right side you think that's the reason of the slipping?
It’s easy enough to adjust the tension and see if it helps. But if that doesn’t help then I would take it in.
I’ve seen others with nuts on the same side. As long as they hold their place and the tension is good, should be fine. I suspect the tension is too low to the left side of the mechanism, so it can’t properly engage. But hard to know.
Again, worth playing with it to see if it helps because you can always screw it back. Just remember how many turns you did and in what direction so you can easily undo whatever you do. 😃
Hey Gravity, how has your bike been long term with the fuel x lite, k&n filter and dna airbox cover? I'm asking because I saw some dust in my airbox going from the filter to the throttle body (that pipe behind filter) and it was very fine dust that doesnt make your finger dirty and I am not sure if that was there since getting the bike as I did not check until after putting the k&n in as I was too excited to ride haha the bike only has just under 800 miles on it
No issues really. I had to tighten a few things, but 2 years and nothing really to report. I'm going to record a 2 year review pretty soon, and the spoiler alert is ... haven't had any issues. I've been running the K&N, DNA, and FuelX for about a year and a half now, and smooth as can be.
Did your motorcycle's quick shifter worked from the first day, or did they activated it for you?
It was activated right away when I got it, and it worked okay but not great.
It wasn’t until I did the 4650 service and the dealership had tightened the clutch tension that it worked perfectly. I played around with it and was able to make it “garbage” again by reducing the tension. Then I recalibrated it and it’s great!
Thanks
@@ridingwithgravity401Great news! Thanks for that!
I have 2023 svartpilen 401. I'm scared to ever shift without the clutch. Won't my transmission explode if the quick shifter doesn't perfectly do it's job?
My quickshifter failed all the time when I first got the motorcycle. Once I adjusted it, it’s been working great, but the failure is more annoying than anything. You think you’re shifting up gear and then you’re not - just in the same gear as before. Annoying and frustrating. Two years and haven’t had my mechanical problems that needed to be repaired.
@@ridingwithgravity401 it failing means it just won't shift and stays in same gear? Or gears get grinded? Also is it better to shift at high rpm?
When it fails, it just doesn't change gears; I haven't had a grinding effect. The manual indicates the RPM range to be in for using the easy shift (quickshifter). For upshift I'm usually up close to where the shift indicator comes on. For downshift I'm usually around 3500 RPMs when coming to a stop, but on the highway when I'm between 50 and 80 Miles Per Hour, you'll want to downshift to get more power even when you're up in the 6500+ RPM range. That's all "ballpark" because honestly, you get a feel for it the more you ride and understand how the bike is going to respond when you want more or less power, etc., so these days I'm not really paying close attention ... just riding and focusing on the ride.
What indicators are those?
Just the stock ones here in the U.S.
@@ridingwithgravity401 Wow, didn’t know you have different from the EU, why is that. The EU led one is much nicer imo
@@andrijacerovic7224 Because we're stupid and our law system is outdated.