What I learned about SLA 3D Printing (Anycubic Mono, Mono SE)
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- It's time to share my experience I made with my new ANYCUBIC 3D printers. These are monochromatic TFT based resin printers really surprised me with the level of detail and print speed. The best part is that I can print transparent stuff that is suitable to be used as optics. I'did quite some experiments and am happy to share it here with you.
Anycubic sponsors the hardware so check out their special offers:
Mono: bit.ly/3mbVj45
Mono SE： bit.ly/3ncKZdC
Wash and cure 2.0：bit.ly/2KgEMi1
Links to parts and tools (affiliate links):
My camera and lens (4k 60fps):
amazon.bitluni.net/gh5
Zoom H6 Audio Recorder:
amazon.bitluni.net/h6
plz share :-)
Tindie store: www.tindie.com/stores/bitluni
Github Sponsors: github.com/sponsors/bitluni
Patreon: / bitluni
Channel membership: / @bitlunislab
Paypal: paypal.me/bitluni
Twitter: @bitluni
reddit: u/bitluni
Discord: / discord
Music:
Jeremy Blake - Powerup!
Andrew Langdon - Follow Me
Dan Henig - Orange Foot
Andrew Langdon - Keys
#maker #3dprinting - Наука та технологія
Your demonstration for how the printers work (around 2 mins in) is fantastic! Exactly the kind of practical demonstration you’d expect from a professional television show, well done!
Small tip when you hear that separating sound: get some PTFE spray and spray a tiny bit on the FEP, after that use a paper towel to dry clean the fep (don't use water or other stuff). This should leave a really fine layer on the FEP and removes the "separation noise" additionally layers will also get off a lot easier from the FEP which helps avoiding the stuck FEP problem (oh yeah and keep your room at 23°C or higher, resin doesn't like cold rooms.
Other things that exist are like magnetic flexible print beds, which makes removing prints a lot easier
For elephant foot there are tools that compensate for that by shrinking the first layer, though not sure if they've got ported over for the newer printer file formats.
Thank you for the Valentine's video filled with heart.
Yeah, first time of hearing that the print time is based on layer count instead of print volume, came as surprise. Even though it's kinda obvious when we think about it.
The results of your experiments with 3D printed lenses are fascinating.
All msla with lcd screen prints in that way , thats because yuo print a layer ech time
Interesting video as always 👍🙂
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
The surface quality is just AMAZING
It’s actually MSLA (masked stereo lithography) being used in resin printers with and lcd used for masking and a led array for projection, SLA is used in printers with lasers.
Thanks for showing how to clear up clear prints. I was kinda sad when I washed my part it fogged up. Gave it a coat of clear UV protectant and now its clear again!
Great video, easy to comphrehend and well put together, thanks
oh.my.freaking.god. this is how you make a great and simple video about 3D printer.. this one is the one i was looking for.. thank you kind sir, now i am sure i can order mono se :)
little tip for removing supports. after printing and removing from the build plate use an old hair dryer on the supports this will heat them up and they will start to warp and you can brush them away from the prints without leaving any puck marks on the models. i would suggest buying a Sovol photon vat for the photon mono as the quick replace fep sheets cost a lot of money and you will save money in the long run with a metal vat.
Great stuff! By the way, when printing flat things in resin, you can just put them flat against the build plate with no supports needed! It takes a bit of prying to get them loose after printing and there might be a small bit of "elephant's foot" , but the savings in print time and post processing are well worth it.
Great set of helpful tips! I think a resin printer is in my future.
Nice video. I really need to set up my resin printer - there's a lot of nice LED stuff to build with these clear resins
I'm not having any luck with my Anycubic Photon X but i keep on trying.... you just gave me fresh courage ;-)
Love the nod to Andreas Spiess!
Use PTFE spray on the FEP film and it minimizes failed prints from stuff being stuck to the FEP, ruined my day a few times on my anycubic mono X where a failed print can be 600ml that you need to drain
Excellent review ! Indeed, helpfull and also entertaining.... ;-)
Nicely done and well explained.
It didn't feel like an advert, which I liked.
It also didn't feel like you just crawled up Anycubics bum to get a few free printers for a good review.
So well done.
he is alive :) nice one, I like the transparent stuff. If it was just not like chemical warfare
If you need to quickly make a part clear, dip a paper towel in mineral oil and give it a good greasing. It will quickly rub off and it’ll make it impossible to glue, but it’ll look crystal clear while it lasts.
I have had great luck just by curing siryah tech smokey under water. On anything thinner than 3mm, it looks like regular clear, but it is super clean and doesn't yellow after curing.
A quick layer of clear coat works wonders too.
zack, if you'd printed lenses in your video I would have been sold, but now, NOW, I need an SLA printer for SURE :D
Zack!!! Love your videos man!
cool to see you here
Nice, looking forward to seeing the projects you do with this. I have a Form 3, I think it's not really better than the Anycubics from what I've read. It has problems.
You can "clean" and reuse the IPA by placing it in the sun for some days or using an UV light. This will cure the dissolved resin and you can filter it using paint(?) filters afterwards. Well, at least that is what I've read somewhere. Might also solve the color issues? (When they are caused by this, idk.)
Whoa, I just learned a whole other rabbit hole here
speechless ...... great !!!
The resin printers definitely open up a lot of possibilities. I bought an Elegoo Mars 2 about six weeks ago, and have been learning to use it. I used a couple of bottles of the IPA-wash resin, and then switched to the water-wash resin, which isn't really any more environmentally friendly, because you have to then figure out what to do with the water contaminated with toxic materials. But it's cheaper and easier than IPA. I have a big tupperware container full of water to do most of the initial cleaning in, and then use a spray bottle of clean water to finish off. The clean water drains into the big container, replacing what evaporates. It works pretty well. I bought one of the "ABS-like" resins, and it is, indeed, quite a bit more flexible and tougher. I'd like to see what you think of some of the new flexible resins that are becoming available. You can apparently also mix it with other resins to make them stronger. Those gears were pretty impressive. There's a planetary orbit model out that I want to try printing the parts for with the resin printer, as my FDM printer doesn't do it justice.
What brand "ABS-like" resin did you get?
Did you manage to get the orrery gears to mesh properly? I've printed a few spur gears and I've noticed them warping over time.
I wonder if you could use it for printing masks onto PCBs for etching by attaching copper clad to the build plate...
Hi.
This is great! Great video as always!
Is the resine recyclable?
Do you think you can make a len and then modify it?
Thanks!
I think it's likely fundamentally impossible to recycle resin, because it forms a thermoset polymer, which cannot be broken down into original constituents.
However the liquid resin that remains in the printer unused after the print, you simply filter it back into the bottle and use it later.
"Len" is not a word, it's unclear what you mean.
Ordered a printer through your link. Hope you still get a kickback
What clear resin did you use? Looks very good!
Great vid.....Fantastic English....
Cool wie immer bei dir, das Herz sieht super aus. Wie lange hat es gedauert in Resin Printer?
Is Resin more expensive and not as loud as FDM in your experience ? Wonderful stuff thanks Bitluni and you got a great personality
I've heard (still not tried out) that clear resins really depend on curing time, otherwise they get a yellowish touch.
That yellowy touch will come from sunlight, as it features different wavelength of UV. Some wavelengh break up the uncured resin and it may change color.
@@SeamusHarper1234 I've had clear resins come out yellow while printing using recommended settings, before curing. There's very few clear resins that will actually print clear.
Thanks it help full
ii have a question, used blender, and some object are not joined but intersected, will it print together on SLA printer?
My dude, look at Nertronic's recent video, he made an app for adjusting the code for your first layers, bringing them back to true dimension. He tests it on gears, it solves one of your problems.
could you link me the chanel? I can't find it
Your ping pong led wall is giving me a cool optical illusion!!
Nice bro
Is it possible to expose photoresist for the PCBs in a TFT "screen" of this printer?
I think Marco Reps has done some testing with that. Anyways, getting two layer PCBs is still hard to achieve with that, Vias also not possible, and JLC or similar are still cheaper and not that slow.
@@LudwigBrechter nope, Marco suggested only tanning procedures:) But you're right, double sided would be a pain in the ass to produce.
@@SciDIY I don't think so. Laminating dryfilm on a double sided pcb should be pretty easy. And exposing each side to the screen for 1 minute should be enough. Etching proccess is same as single sided boards. You can fill Vias with solder if you are not using the pcb for high frequency stuff. All in all, it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to finish the pcb. It'll be great for rapid prototyping.
@@hassanzahin1534 it may be fiddly to align two sides. But it would be a gamechanger if there no need to print a mask for the photoresist.
@@LudwigBrechter JLC = 3$ for the PCBs 30$ for the shipping.
hab schon überlegt zwischen dem Belichten und Hochfahren immer wieder dias Bett vibrieren zu lassen das sich das Rezin sauber verteilen kann, wenn man dieses Vibrieren geziehlt stehen lassen würde könnte man dieses Stufenbilden etwas verwischen, oder was meint ihr ?
hi, is it possible to use the resin tank of the anicubyc photon mono SE on the photon mono?
Nice reenactment, lol. The price is falling and the quality increasing pretty rapidly, how long before we see 8k resolution on these? I think the rub now is the software, the software should reliably auto-support the model and ALL the islands for instance. Software should perform this function with far greater fidelity than a person can and far more than it does currently.
What was your master thesis about exactly?
AmaZing
Why no lan option, is it that hard to incorperate lan function so you don't have to change usb sticks the early photon's had a lan connector and chip but no firmware that supported it. Ow and directories on the usb stick still doesn't work (Photon S v5.0.2)
The electronics is proprietary by another company, Chitu Systems, and it's all closed source firmware, so if they never got something working, or don't offer a feature, well there's nothing the device manufacturer can do about it. And there's also no alternative supplier.
A transparant hart is so nice for education purpose.
What was the clearest resin that you tried?
can anyone tell me the difference between the mono and the mono X, does 4k res make a massive difference from the 2k? the price is almost double for the difference. I want to make micro miniatures with it . thanks
Strange question, but how viable do you think running one of these would be on a boat using LifePo4 batteries?
Probably not difficult to do as a number of these only need 50W to run (basically an old incandescent light bulb). Just figure out how long you need to run your printer and what it's power requirements are and add a safety margin. On the other hand you might need to do something about sloshing resin if your boat rocks.
Very informative and Rick Rolled to boot
Ughhh..... been resisting getting a resin printer. Just haven’t thought I really needed one for my applications, but it’s getting harder to not get one. Lol. The lenses were really cool
Don't give in that easily. If you get too much of the stuff on your skin (it gets absorbed, you know like forever), you could end up with a really harsh side of the deal. I really like this technology, but It's too scary for me. Exactly the same reason I won't be buying a laser head anytime soon. Never underestimate the entropy (or Murphy's laws).
UA-cam wont let me click the like button more than once, i'm sad !
Nice for a giveaway :-)
well! He is also a man of culture... nice!
Really liked the “Out-of-the-📦” Explaination using a small Dab of Resin & Covering the FEP - with the ⭐️ Cutout🤓🤩🤩 Killer Seeing this Demonstration & Open my 🧠 up to why stuff happens…(not just a magic box) 🤓😂 🙏Thank U🙏
The real reason he wanted these printers @6:40
You got to wash and brush your models 😉
Bitiuni is a weeb? Who knew?
my resin prints only turn out well in the center of the buildplate, everyhing outside the center with a radius of about 2cm fails/warps
does anyone have an idea how i could improve this?
'Make sure the FEP it tight. If it's loose it will deform your prints when it pulls off. I use the PTFE as well. It seems to help it release easier. Make sure it is supported well too.
@@helicopterdriver thanks for the reply. so you just got a ptfe spray and applied it to the fep film in the tank? found some ptfe sprays but it seems they are mainly used for lubricating bikes, is there anything to look out for?
@@c0d1ngclips25 3-in-One PTFE Lubricant. It comes in a squirt bottle. Apply to the FEP with a cotton ball when it's clean and let it "dry" a bit. Rainx window spray is another option but the 3-in 1 is cheap. Seems to work for me. Only one partially stuck print after a many. (support fail) Supports seem to be the downfall of most prints for me. Too many is just enough. :D
> has master thesis
Suddenly you seem a whole less clumsy as you make out to be
master in what>?
@@Francois_Dupont Master of clumsiness
The links do not work for me :(
Helpful CHECK
Entertaining CHECK
i want one
interesting
Very nearly Rick Rolled!
1:39 Bubbles
That's MSLA my guy.
I bought a new Photon S, cannot get it working. Giving up, wasted money on it.
They really are pretty good. I've got the Photon SE and my first print failed. Everything was too cold. Took a heat gun to the build plate until it was warm and soaked the resin bottle in some hot water for a bit to warm it up and it's printed fine since. Rough up the build plate a little with some fine sandpaper too. Too cold an environment makes the resin react slower. I've been FDM printing for 5 years and this is definitely the future for 3D printing.
Ok, does anyone know who made the anime girl bitluni printed?
10:50 hahahaha jajaja kkkkkkkk
R.I.P. TO MY EARS!!!
love your channel... But I' ll chime on an ABOSLUTLEY unbiased review as I don't want nor need to receive any free hardware from any company. You forgot to mention that just that even at a 2 min cure (lowest setting) it will yellow the resin.
You did not mention one of the most important parts of any printer.. The software, Photon Workshop is filled with bugs.
To be fair the prints are great!
From studying they are NOT the sane printer. The Mono SE is 0.05 mm layer
0:24 - Master feces 😂
(yes i know thesis)
Lenses...
"helpful or at least entertaining"? i will notify
Andreas Spiess for your shameless plagiarism!!
I learned its messy and useless. figurines look nice.... thats it..
When you buy stuff with your own money and review them, then your opinion matters to me.
Otherwise, you're considered just another YT shill, doing reviews for freebees and sponsorship money.
Do you get paid for the work you do? If so, does that fact invalidate your work?