You NEED TO KNOW how I clean my table saw blades (and where to get them sharpened)
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2018
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Our Guild uses Quinn Saw sharpening in St. Louis. They get cleaned, laser etched with your name and account number, inspected, repaired, and cnc sharpened. The can also sharpen the WW II blades.
dang, Ive watched a dozen of your videos so far and have not gotten pissed off or wanted to yell at you once! That, my friend, is a miracle! You have helped me... Thank You.
3:16 Used toothbrushes ;) They're great for cleaning stuff with no damage! Plus i give them a second life and that's one less thing polluting the environment. I clean my monitor's edges, my vape, laptop hinges, keyboard, sneakers, you name it... Pretty useful free tools! :P
Just make sure to mark it as a "non-tooth brush" My toddler found a bunch and tried being "helpful" by putting them back in the bathroom. :P
Hi Emilian. Laptop hinges? How do you do this? Do you have a video tutorial on this? I'm a nerd accountant who loves carpentry and all thing handy. Now I need to know about this laptop hinge cleaning thing! LOL
Thank you for a great video! So true, if you have to wear gloves to clean your blades, then somethings wrong! I saw the cleaner from Microjig for $99 and said NOPE, way to expensive. So I went to my local Klingspore Woodworking shop and bought a bottle of Trend, and over to Home Depot and bought the lid. I have the brush and will hopefully get to cleaning my blades. Thank you again, keep up the great work!
I sharpen professionally and find simple green the go to cleaner, a pair of cut resistant gloves and a magnet to handle the blade if needed. If the blades are scrubbed they need some type of rust proofing and use dry spray lubricant after.
I've been using a baking sheet. You're right about it being hard to pick the blade up. I've got a stack of bucket lids right in the corner that never crossed my mind to use for this purpose. Thanks for pointing out the error of my ways.
lol baking sheet what a noob
"...that allows you to put your finger though the blade..." is not something I expect to hear very often on a woodworking channel. :)
I use "Super Clean" from Walmart (comes in a purple bottle) and a nylon brush from Harbor Freight in a 5 gal bucket lid Works great, and fast. Wear gloves. I apply a coat of paste wax to the blade after drying. I find the blade stays cleaner a little longer.
Thanks for going with an environmentally friendly product.
SUPER CLEAN WORKS GREAT 10-15 MINUTES.
I was a woodworker in the 80's. We had a guy that came in and took our carbide router and saw blades away on a weekly basis. He gave us a cleaner that I swear smelled like 409. Worked great on dissolving the crap on our blades with little to no scrubbing. I think I'm gonna use Ridge sharpening for my router bits and Amana saw blade. Thanks guys!
One of the best tips ever! Cleaned all my old blades, boom, sharp again.
I have used a couple different cleaners for my sawblades and picked this up on your recommendation and I can't get over how good this stuff works! 30 seconds and a soft tooth brush and the varnish came off immediately. Thank you so much! The tips and tricks videos are great too!
Bucket lid ? Fantastic tip. Like they were just made for this fob. Why didn't I think of this. As a pro painter and weekend woodworker I have no shortage of lids. The whole vid was great. Love all these "little" tips I get here. They add up "big" time and make my life easier. Thanks.
👍 Kudos!!
Started with the scorch/burning wood vid and Linked over.
Thanks much!!! Answers the.."burning...wtf?" question.
Clean, sharpen, and check the alignments.
Should have just checked with you for the answers 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks 👍 I appreciate what you do for helping us out, and just " to know".
Thank you for these videos. I learned on my own starting 20 years ago with a couple books. I’ve learned so much watching your videos and others. Cleaned my first table saw blade today! I just kept buying cheaper blades. And now I also know why crosscut blades have teeth that are angled. So much more. !!!
I'm genuinely impressed ! The things that I've learned or taught myself over many years are almost all addressed in your videos and many of the tips/notes/comments are the details that I haven't thought of. This blade cleaning tutorial is especially nice in that regard. I'd never heard of an eco-friendly cleaner and had never thought of using a bucket lid. A hearty well done to you and many sincere thanks !!
I've always used oven cleaner and a brass brush. I've also made my own cleaning trays from a scrap of plywood with a piece of dowel to hang the arbor on. The dowel is placed so that the blade teeth hang a bit over the edge to let me get at each tooth. I like your method better.
Now, having paid attention to cleaning and sharpening, a word about blade storage would seem fitting.
I use the simple green HD pro cleaner (purple) which is concentrated so it works really fast. I can literally rub the resin off with my fingers. I also used the 5 gal bucket lid trick as well, but it doesn't work for my 12" blades. For those I found a shallow oil changing pan online which works well and has a pour spout. I also rinse off the cleaner w/ water, dry with paper towels, and blast it with a heat gun to get rid of any lingering moisture. Additionally, whenever I clean the saw blades, I go ahead and go through the router bits and clean the dirty ones as well.
Thanks James! Simple Green works for me. Love the lid idea!
Bucket top ! Nice ! I'm going to buy one and some cleaner today ! And thank you for these tips videos.. your the best at lending these insights by the dozens.
Hi James, about 20, 25 years ago I read an article in Popular Mechanics magazine that suggested 409. Then rinse it about nd dry the blade well. I have used that and it works well, but I did not know about the Trend Tool cleaner. I love you tip about the 5 gallon pal lid.
Thanks again,
Kirk
Very, very timely. I was just looking through one of my drawers this morning and there were a half dozen old blades in there that probably only need cleaning. I think you put the motivation in me to do it.
One note about the Simple Green cleaner. I've read in router forums that the aircraft version is the only one that doesn't degrade the braze that attaches the carbide tooth to the rest of the blade. But I don't know if that's true. I think I should play it safe and use Trend.
Bucket lid...perfect. Love it! Thanks so much for sharing!
Smarter woodworking ideas do not exist. James is the real McCoy and has been blessing my woodworking for over six years now. I don’t miss an episode. No shocking words, colorful arms; just an old fashioned family man with an amazing head full of practical knowledge and a desire to maintain his wonderful craft by sharing what he knows.
Perfect timing I was just getting ready to clean my saw blade.
Thank you for that, very helpful. For those watching in UK i use Elbow Grease!! yes it is a cleaner. Not sure if it is available in US but its very cheap in UK, £1 for 0.5 litre from Boyes and B&M. Does a great job. Thanks again
The lid idea is great allows for not too much liquid. I use krud Kutter let it soak over night. I also use it on my chain saw blades and chainsaw itself as all the bar oil and sawdust gets gummed up. Works on table saw the same way. Have to play with the solution mixture 50/50 is a good start.
Thanks for the advice about Trend tool cleaner. What a surprise. It really works. Just reviewed on Amazon and gave a shout-out to you. Happy Easter.
Love the tip about the bucket lid, thanks!
Great tip mate & info. I use an oven tray, but I glued 3 pieces of scrap wood together to make a triangle to sit the blad on. Also, baking powder mixed with white vinegar works great for cleaning. the blade & other tools too.
thank you so much! i have been cleaning my blades in a turkey roaster!!! just cleaned 2 90t blades in 5 gallon cover... thanks for your tips and video's... Chuck upstate ny
I couldn't wait to buy a cleaner so I found some spray simple green meant for cleaning barbeque grills. Got me one of those lids too. Thanks for the advice!
try caustic soda... i keep a roasting tray to clean alsorts & my blades... 10min soak & hot rinse
Excellent Video Jim! Thanks for sharing the info...
I was ripping a bunch of maple and I noticed I was getting a lot of burn marks. I was sure my fence was out of square and dinked with it for 20 minutes only to have the same result. Later that day I happened onto your blade cleaning video and sonofabitch the burn was gone. Thanks for the reminder!
Awesome tips! Going to clean my blades now
Muchas gracias, compartiste el video justo a tiempo 😄👍🏻
Another thing a DIYrs might have around that would work to clean a blade in is a plastic oil drain pan. They are a little deeper, so maybe not quite as easy to work in as the bucket lid, but still keep the cleaning liquid confined. You can even completely submerge the blade if you want to let it soak without worrying it might dry before you get around to scrubbing it. Don't forget the face of the teeth and gullets as well as the sides. You'll get much of it while doing the sides, but perhaps not all.
You ‘da ‘Man Stumpy Nubs! Thanks
Thanks James.
Excellent Video James!
Thanks for the bucket lid tip. Brilliant.
Bucket lid is a great tip - I've always used Simple Green.
Hey James,
I cannot say enough about how well the Simple Green HD works !
Best / Fastest pitch remover EVER. Practically instant. I used it full strength for this, probably could cut it a little.
Disclaimer : never tried the Trend stuff.
It also cleaned the smeared and burnt (?) Paint from the body of the blade.
Thanks !!
Thank you James.
Great video and tip on the bucket lid.
for years I've been using warm water & dish soap, let it soak for about a minute and then i scrub it in the direction of the teeth with a scotch pad, dry it and good to go.
I think i'm going to give it a try to the liquid he uses on the video
Thanks for the great tips James! So when your video started, I thought what a cool dish for cleaning saw blades! I'll bet it is expensive. 🤔😅
This is a great tip. Thank you
I use the 5 gal bucket lid same as you. I use ordinary Pinesol straight out of the bottle, Let the blade soak or a hour or so, rinse in hot water. New blade...
If it took me an hour to cleen my blade, it wouldn't be done.
Aint nobody got time for dat!
Another great video. I use simple green, but it does take the paint off if I soak it.
Great info. Thank you for sharing.
I've been watching him for a while now. Full of good advice. One think though. I wouldn't do that on my table saw especially with out a cover even if the top is treated. Those machine tops rust easily and the stain never really comes out.
Purple Power! Works great, doesn't smell bad, and you don't need gloves! Only down side is if you have heavy build up it may require a few minutes soak time, but then just rinse it away. NO scrubbing needed. The stuff is really amazing.
Hey James, I especially like that you recommend something not harmful to the environment. Have a Great Day!
Nice, thanks for the video!
Thank you sir for the good tips!
Well stated. I use a Simple Green knock-off ($5/gallon and same stuff at Lowes) to clean all my blades and router bits. Works great. I agree Rigid Carbide is the BEST place to send blades. They also make GREAT blades. Great customer service and really nice people too.
how much does one of those blades cost, is it not just easier to buy a new one?
Easier? Yes. A better blade? Nope.
A simple hot water soak works just as well and is free and environmentally friendly. The sap is sugar-based (think of maple syrup). Use a toothbrush to brush off the varnish. Also, the hot blade dries almost instantly from evaporation.
Great video thanks for sharing!
I just use a magnet to lift my blades when they are flat down on a surface. It only takes one good slice to convince me to find a better way...
I use a mixture of Dawn dishwashing liquid & water, with some 91% rubbing alcohol mixed in. I've found that this mixture cleans the blades pretty quickly and thoroughly. I sharpen my own blades, mainly because I have an aversion to paying someone for doing something that I can do myself.
Try soaking in caustic soda for 10mins... know of any 15" round lids?
Thanks for the bucket lid tip! I found a great cleaner that dissolves hard pitch and burn within 15 seconds and makes it so easy to clean. Clorox Clean-up in the quart spray. It's a mild clorox based cleaner and works very quickly. It's not quite as friendly as some you've suggested but it is not harmful and simply rinses away with water. I didn't find a need to wear gloves with it and did not burn or bleach my skin whatsoever. Try it to see how quickly it dissolves.
@@boots7859 I have tried dish soaps and while they kinda work soaps don't dissolve the pitch. Or at least I didn't have the patience to wait it out. Clorox clean up spray isn't that harmful especially if you put on a pair of latex gloves. It just melts the pitch very fast.
I use Ammonia, it works great and I do not mind the smell
Great tip... thank you!
Interesting. Thank you for the good content
great vid, thanks!
Wow! I thought I was the only one using 5-gal bucket tops for saw blade cleaning!
I use 409 and a nylon tooth brush. Soak it for a few minutes and the gunk literally falls off.
Way cheaper than TREND
Good video, good tips
Thanx for the info
great video . thanks
Great video
Ok, so I am one of those weekend woodworkers that didn't clean their blades often enough (as in never). Wow, what a difference. Simple Green works great, just let it soak about five minutes. Next up - router bits!!!!!
I use Simply Green for my Saw blades. Works like a charm, inexpensive and environmentally friendly!
As always, a great, and enlightening, video. Getting blades sharpened local is simply not an option in my case, and the mailing out, etc is not effective when dealing with cheaper blades. THERE is a question currents on my mind, and that is whether to use really good blades on an upcoming project, or to use several cheapies and simply pitch them when they dull. Whether cheap blades, or the greatest in the world, this will be an edge killer: I will be using lots of black locust boards and timbers.
For those unfamiliar with this wood, it outlast - untreated and unfinished - in ground contact longer than any of the box store treated wood. 75 Year old locust fences posts are not at all uncommon. However, the wood is HARD. I have cut a few black locust trees, and always see a few sparks shooting from the saw kerf. On one occasion, I thought I had hit metal, but it was just the wood that sent sparks flying from a fresh Oregon saw chain; It looked like I was running a grinder. (BTW: Yes, it is even harder after it is dried.) So, am I correct in thinking I should use "disposable" blades to cut this stuff?
That's good to know, thanks.
I use Simple Green it works very well and is very safe One other application is if your car engine dirty Spray it on a warm engine liberally and let it sit for about 5 minutes and then spray it off works great
I started watching this and the cheapskate DIYer in me was like, “I bet I could 3D print a tray like that and save myself... wait... a bucket lid?! That’s BRILLIANT!!!”
It is really, isn’t it? And I was thinking he was going to pour out the liquid to cover the blade. You could use his method on a flat surface.
I use TREND on my saw blades and it works well. Beware do not leave the Trend on the blade over night. It really stained my best saw blade when I forgot and left it soak overnight.
You can use winter green cleaner, cheap works great
good advice
I cut a 5 gallon bucket and then cut a little pour spout on it. Works great
I've cleaned a 12 in saw blade with the Trend stuff. looks like new. I will need to see if it helps with cutting common woods like pine and pressure treated material. It's on a cross saw that gets used for just about anything that comes along. I will set another post on the performance.
Thanks for the great no bs video. So, how would you go about removing rust & cleaning a bandsaw blade?
I bought the cleaning solution and boy does it work, however I purchased a 16 inch base for a large flower pot, I used a toilet tank bolt and placed it through the hole in the saw blade and found that I could spin the blade and pick it up out of the dirty cleaner with out any problems..
Thanks.
The price of Trend on your link is amazing
Damn good video!!!!!
I've never tried Trend blade cleaner and the people that made the product I've used for years has disappeared (Empire). So I'll order some Trend. It was interesting that you provided a recommendation for a sharpening service. Thanks! And one question, can you recommend an outfit and will sharpen hand saws. I've got an old back saw that was my Dad's and I'd like to use it more. Anyway, thanks for a fine video.
Vinegar works really well too.
Thanks for the sharpening tip, at this point in my wood working journey I'm using Dewalt blades, and Diablo Dado set for my circular and table saws. Are these blades worth sending out to be sharpened, in that do they take sharpening well? Or shoulder I treat them as disposable because of the cost of the blades. As I improve in my skill levels I plan on investing more into quality tools.
They can probably be sharpened at least once.
Wow, what a difference. Thanks for the tip. As a weekend woodworker, I never thought I needed to clean the blade simply because my wood cutting volume was low. However over the last few years I've been doing more and recently ran into difficulty with burning and hard to push feed speeds. I thought it was because I was using hard maple. After cleaning, it cut like a newly sharpened blade-no burning and much faster and easier feed speeds. ps. i use the Forrest WW2 and I send it back to them for sharpening. I do have a question: WHY? Why does the slight amount of gunk make the wood burn? It seems to me that the teeth do the cutting and with the teeth being thicker than the blade metal it shouldn't matter.
I assume the same reason a blade set to high would burn. The dirt doesn't seem like much but if it doubles the friction then it would be similar to setting your saw to a much deeper cut than actually needed.
A soaking in laundry detergent and a little water works; really really well. Then a light bake in the oven to get all the moisture out.
@@boots7859 it`s a sawstop. seems risky to me to put a wet blade on. Had my first accidental trip running wood through that was too wet. A 200 dollar mistake.
I have the cleaner...maybe I should actually use it.
One cleaner I've used thst Ive never seen mentioned is bong cleaner. Designed for removing stubborn resin, all natural, dual purpose!
Braaaaaah that’s brilliant! For many years I used soo many versions and made my own (talking binger cleaner lol) I would imagine nothing with any grit to it though as a few brands had some abrasive in it. & towards the end of my pot head career I was using simple alcohol/sea salt to clean my bubblers/bongs etc. worked well! I’m about to grab a Festool tracksaw blade a friend gave me recently and try alcohol. I think I’ll start with a 50/50 mix & go up to high concentration 91%+ to see what effect it will have! Good tip across the board brother 😉
I use trend for my expensive blades/bits, and then just simple green for the less expensive stuff. I don't notice a massive difference, and if I had to cut back spending I would be fine using SG for everything. I know Trend isn't stupidly expensive, but it is one of those luxuries that can be cut out if I need to cut back. I clean mine every three days, just as a ritual, and I am kind of a moderate user. I just never want to bother having to deal with burn marks etc. I'd rather spend the few minutes every three days instead of messing up a nice piece of hardwood.
Have tried Simple Green, All and Gain @50:50. Simple Green is hands down better than the detergents.
thank you. A question. Once the blade is clean, do you or should you put anything on the blade to protect it from rusting?
No. Anything you put on it will wear off the first time you cut a piece of wood.
I have always used liquid dish soap. It cuts right through the build up.
It seems to me that have buildup on the sides of the carbide is also going to make a very slightly larger kerf. When doing precision cutting, like kumiko, that could be a problem.
I kinda like the burned-on sap patina.
I live in the Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut area. People here send blades to Burns Tools in Fall River, MA.
Does Ridge Tool send your blade back to you in the same case or packaging in which you sent it to them? I've lost said protective packaging when dealing with other services, which was irritating.
James, What do you recommend putting on the blade after it is cleaned to prevent rust? In the North East here my garage gets so humid everything rusts. I use Johnson paste wax and CRC Marine Corrosion inhibitor. I'm guessing the paste wax is best. What are your thoughts?
Anything you put on will wear off the first time you use it.