Darryn, once again, my compliments on this remarkable binding creation. It is indeed the Mt. Everest of binding goals to reach. It is so intriguing that techniques like this originated as far back as the 17th century. Thank you for sharing this series and all of your other videos offering a large variety of binding options. I'm slowly getting back in the groove that was slowed down over the last two years ranging from Covid to political chaos. I hope you and your family are well. Cheers, Bob
Thank you so much for creating these videos. It is wonderful to see such a level of skill, not only in the binding, but also in the video production. I hope you inspire many people to want to own a book like this.
I like loved watching this series. What a gorgeous cover, great job. You should do a montage of this series from first to last video without any voice over, just some classical music in the back ground so we could watch you build the book in just a few minutes.
If you have access to an airbrush, using it at a very low air pressure can allow you to create a very regular and repeatable sprinkle coverage very easily. I would still do a bit of practice before beginning, and I would still create sample pieces first as it's easy to go overboard.
You have a great teaching style and voice for it! fyi, you may want to rewatch this with the captions on - there's something weird about it. You speak for a couple minutes, then suddenly all the captions show up for that minute. rinse and repeat. Made it very difficult to watch when i couldn't hear it as well. But watching even without knowing what you were saying was fun!
I don't really plan to ever work with leather, but this is quite pretty. I wonder if i could at least have the nice geometric shape using paint or ink without any tooling type stuff.
Truly beautiful. The craftsmanship displayed here, as in all your videos, is deeply inspiring. Question: Will different types of leather respond to these techniques in substantially different ways? I'd imagine that some are easier than others to work with.
Absolutely. Thus why I used the easier to work with goat instead of the more traditional calf. Cost is also a big consideration for me. That last statement is a bit strange now I think about it. Calf is cheaper per book, but the skins are much larger and thus have a higher initial capital cost. DAS
Great series, I watched all of them and I'm glad I found your channel. Out of curiosity how long from start to finish do you think that you spent on this very fine binding?
Did you ever post the way you add endpapers to this book? I can't seem to find it. Every time I try to add endpapers to this kind of book it ends up horribly wrinkled near the bend, or just tears, or BOTH and it's so frustrating 😭 Looking for your expertise and guidance. Thank you.
Beautiful work, congratulations! I have a question for you, at what temperature do you heat the tools (stamps) for the skin? As far as I know, it must be somewhere between 130 -150 degrees Celsius, is that correct?
Complex question. Modern foils are designed for 3 specific parameters - temperature, pressure and dwell time - and you are told these by the manufacturer. For real gold leaf finishing it depends on the leather and the glair being used, and a finisher will develop a feel for the glair they use and their favourite leather. Most finishers test temperature with a bit of saliva on their finger and touching the tool. Actually, first they usually touch the tool to the wad of wet cotton which will quickly tell if a tool is way too hot or cold, then fine tune with finger. I think most gold finishers work at just over sizzle, or just under - so around 100C. I'm still working out blind tooling. I was working too hot, and thus why I burnt the leather. I believe you should work cooler than for gold finishing. But I have been having trouble drawing out colour with cooler tools. This may be the leather. The 130-150 you mention sounds like modern foil temperatures. I use my blocking press at about 130-140. Ciao, Darryn
So I noticed you used analine dye for this one, for times when you’ve used Fiebings for the whole book, have you noticed excessive rub-off and do you think that the JHS Dressing helps prevent rub off? I use Fiebings pro dye, which is supposed to have less rub off, and I buff the crap out of it once it’s dry, and then even seal it with a wax I make myself from beeswax and various nut oils, but even after buffing off the wax you could still use the book like a crayon with how much the dye still rubs off. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong and I hate selling books that could stain someone’s clothing or furniture.
After applying the dye-fixer there isn't much colour comes off from the aniline dye. The one time I forgot to use the dye fixer it turned my hands brown and that is when my band stick got all the stains on it. There was still a bit of dye rubbed off when polishing after applying the dressing, but very little and I was rubbing it very vigorously. Normal handling wouldn't get any dye off. I assumed it comes from the Fiebing. I would guess with time it would become more stable too. Is the pro dye the oil based one? I wouldn't expect that to offset either. It's used for belts and wallets? DAS
@@DASBookbinding yea it’s oil and alcohol based I think? And that was always my thought too, if it’s used for belts you would think it wouldn’t rub off as much. It seems to be fine if I leave it un-sealed. But once I rub the wax in it’s like the wax pulled out the pigment and then from that point further you get a lot of rub off. But I don’t want to just leave the leather in-sealed. So I was curious to try that JHS Dressing. Not sure if I can get it in America though.
Beautiful ❤
Oh my, what a beauty! This is the one technique I know for sure I will never have the guts to try, but I soooo love to watch you. Thank you!
What an absolutely gorgeous binding and great craftsmanship. This series was excellent!
thank you for your work, heres a comment for algorithm
Beautiful. Just beautiful.
Darryn, once again, my compliments on this remarkable binding creation. It is indeed the Mt. Everest of binding goals to reach. It is so intriguing that techniques like this originated as far back as the 17th century. Thank you for sharing this series and all of your other videos offering a large variety of binding options. I'm slowly getting back in the groove that was slowed down over the last two years ranging from Covid to political chaos.
I hope you and your family are well. Cheers, Bob
Great to hear from you Bob. All the best, Darryn
Thank you so much for creating these videos. It is wonderful to see such a level of skill, not only in the binding, but also in the video production. I hope you inspire many people to want to own a book like this.
I like loved watching this series. What a gorgeous cover, great job. You should do a montage of this series from first to last video without any voice over, just some classical music in the back ground so we could watch you build the book in just a few minutes.
If you have access to an airbrush, using it at a very low air pressure can allow you to create a very regular and repeatable sprinkle coverage very easily. I would still do a bit of practice before beginning, and I would still create sample pieces first as it's easy to go overboard.
This type of cover looks perfect for a "Cambridge History book", which I got plenty but in the PDF format 📙📜
You have a great teaching style and voice for it! fyi, you may want to rewatch this with the captions on - there's something weird about it. You speak for a couple minutes, then suddenly all the captions show up for that minute. rinse and repeat. Made it very difficult to watch when i couldn't hear it as well. But watching even without knowing what you were saying was fun!
Thanks for the heads up on this. It's being looked at. Ta, Darryn
Nice work.
Would like to see a video on drum book binding. If possible
I've added it to the list:) DAS
I wouldn’t be upset if there was some gold tooling in the future!
One of my weaknesses. DAS
I don't really plan to ever work with leather, but this is quite pretty. I wonder if i could at least have the nice geometric shape using paint or ink without any tooling type stuff.
Maybe. Let me know how it goes. DAS
Truly beautiful. The craftsmanship displayed here, as in all your videos, is deeply inspiring.
Question: Will different types of leather respond to these techniques in substantially different ways? I'd imagine that some are easier than others to work with.
Absolutely. Thus why I used the easier to work with goat instead of the more traditional calf. Cost is also a big consideration for me. That last statement is a bit strange now I think about it. Calf is cheaper per book, but the skins are much larger and thus have a higher initial capital cost. DAS
Great series, I watched all of them and I'm glad I found your channel. Out of curiosity how long from start to finish do you think that you spent on this very fine binding?
About 15 hours spread over a few weeks. DAS
Did you ever post the way you add endpapers to this book? I can't seem to find it.
Every time I try to add endpapers to this kind of book it ends up horribly wrinkled near the bend, or just tears, or BOTH and it's so frustrating 😭
Looking for your expertise and guidance. Thank you.
It's part of a series and making and sewing on the endpapers and then putting down the pastedown open are all covered at some point.
Beautiful work, congratulations! I have a question for you, at what temperature do you heat the tools (stamps) for the skin? As far as I know, it must be somewhere between 130 -150 degrees Celsius, is that correct?
Complex question. Modern foils are designed for 3 specific parameters - temperature, pressure and dwell time - and you are told these by the manufacturer. For real gold leaf finishing it depends on the leather and the glair being used, and a finisher will develop a feel for the glair they use and their favourite leather. Most finishers test temperature with a bit of saliva on their finger and touching the tool. Actually, first they usually touch the tool to the wad of wet cotton which will quickly tell if a tool is way too hot or cold, then fine tune with finger. I think most gold finishers work at just over sizzle, or just under - so around 100C. I'm still working out blind tooling. I was working too hot, and thus why I burnt the leather. I believe you should work cooler than for gold finishing. But I have been having trouble drawing out colour with cooler tools. This may be the leather. The 130-150 you mention sounds like modern foil temperatures. I use my blocking press at about 130-140. Ciao, Darryn
So I noticed you used analine dye for this one, for times when you’ve used Fiebings for the whole book, have you noticed excessive rub-off and do you think that the JHS Dressing helps prevent rub off? I use Fiebings pro dye, which is supposed to have less rub off, and I buff the crap out of it once it’s dry, and then even seal it with a wax I make myself from beeswax and various nut oils, but even after buffing off the wax you could still use the book like a crayon with how much the dye still rubs off. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong and I hate selling books that could stain someone’s clothing or furniture.
After applying the dye-fixer there isn't much colour comes off from the aniline dye. The one time I forgot to use the dye fixer it turned my hands brown and that is when my band stick got all the stains on it. There was still a bit of dye rubbed off when polishing after applying the dressing, but very little and I was rubbing it very vigorously. Normal handling wouldn't get any dye off. I assumed it comes from the Fiebing. I would guess with time it would become more stable too. Is the pro dye the oil based one? I wouldn't expect that to offset either. It's used for belts and wallets? DAS
@@DASBookbinding yea it’s oil and alcohol based I think? And that was always my thought too, if it’s used for belts you would think it wouldn’t rub off as much. It seems to be fine if I leave it un-sealed. But once I rub the wax in it’s like the wax pulled out the pigment and then from that point further you get a lot of rub off. But I don’t want to just leave the leather in-sealed. So I was curious to try that JHS Dressing. Not sure if I can get it in America though.
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