We're on the road testing the entire system right now, I will provide an update how the entire setup works, and how cooking full meals with the induction cook top and 200Ah of Lithium battery is working out - Stay tuned! If you are impatient, you can find out right now on Patreon - www.patreon.com/theroadchoseme
Hey Dan, just a word of caution. Your power system looks amazing and the video super helpful to those new to this but I would caution you against using the cheap Amazon circuit breakers. At least that's what it looks like you've used. I have had a bunch of these fail and they are not properly rated usually either. I strongly recommend spending just a few more bucks on Blue Sea or Bussmann. I've also had better luck with a few of the 'in between' cheap and name brand Amazon names like T Tocas and Stinger. I have a Young Marine brand one from Amazon that is holding up so far as well, yet another inexpensive Amazon brand that has recently popped up. Cheers!
Totally agree, I've had 3 fail in use and a further 2 that are simply way WAY under rated, a 50A that trips at 200A and a 100A that doesn't ever trip as I can't load it over 250A. I bit the bullet and purchased blue sea items 👍
Agree, these fail all the time, or don't trip when they are meant to, I just went for Bluesea MRBF, this is going to be the 1st weak point in the system here.
Yep. Those manual reset breakers have a hard time tripping at the current stamped on them - they are wildly over or under, and when they are installed under bonnet and get hot they fail to operate at all - thankfully they mostly open from the heat and not the other way. Best fuse to use is ANL in my opinion, which is why Renogy supplies one in their stuff. ANL has a good compliance with fusing at the right current.
Odd that Renogy says you can't put battery on side... every other manufacturer specifically says you CAN place a Lifepo4 battery on side! This is one of the big advantages of LFP batteries... you may need to revisit this statement with Renogy.
Maybe the cells are actually mounted on their side while the battery is not. Putting the batter on its side could potentially put the cell upside down.
@@bmpwe they very likely have the same cells many brands use. There should realistically still be a good reason why they don't want them on their side when it's a non-issue for everyone else
Best greetings from Cyprus! Here there’s amazing old 1989 Hilux d/cabs, and many other 4WDs of all makes and ages. Thanks for the electrical guidance! Stay safe 🕊
They don't put out that much heat, I have the same one and am surprised how cool they run, plus he can't push it to it's limit unless there is enough solar being generated to help the battery, this battery can supply 200A continuous which is maximum 2400w, 3000w needs 250A.
You can’t really take a swipe at someone for buying a Egon while watching old mate drop a kings ransom on boiling a kettle. There’s nothing wrong having a higher end setup, but by the time you’re at that point you are doing it because you can.
The first person to bring a workable 12v induction cooker to market is going to make a killing. Watching people spend thousands and thousands of dollars on running a single hot plate is pretty painful.
I talked to a product design engineer at a well-know company who basically said "The industry will catch up and get there eventually". Also, for what it's worth, if there was such a thing the only component that would be different in my system is I could remove the inverter. Everything else would be identical, so it's not like I spent "thousands" to get the hot plate alone.
Dan, with 600w and a dc to dc, I think you’ll be able to get by just fine with 200a. I run a 300a battery with 300w on top of my UM J30, no dc to dc, full electric kitchen, and have never ran below 20%. Lookin good. The only suggestion I’d give is to figure out how water will leak from above and make a shield over your inverter to protect it. Yes, I said “will”, not “if”.
Great work overall. Please put an insulated cover on your positive battery terminal. Too easy for a metal object to short across that battery and start a fire.
Pretty sure that can't happen due to the battery management system shutting down power in that scenario. If you haven't seen it watch his torture test of these batteries
These batteries are completely protected. I tested one a few months ago and dead short it repeatedly to see what would happen - ua-cam.com/video/hlgL72aV-n4/v-deo.html
You got it. I just finished my 60 day cross country trip with my power system. Induction cooking everyday. Total of 370 Amp hours of storage, 50 Amp Renogy DC to DC charger, 2000 watt Renogy inverter and one 200 watt Renogy solar panel. Plenty of power!
That 60A fuse you put under the bonnet will cause grief. When they get hot they cut out. Ask me how I know. Replace with an ANL fuse. The 3000W inverter can draw more power than your battery can deliver continuously. 2000W is the right size for a 200Amp battery.
Dan, so glad you're doing these types of vlog. I really appreciate the detail you've gone into with this build. Stoked for you, and hope you have a fantastic trip.
Thanks Dan. Do you know if it's o.k. to hook up the ip67 to an alternator greater than 100 amp? Foresty Forest hooked up his Renogy 60 amp dc to dc to his starter battery and runs a 250 amp alternator. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to show us the mistakes you made and what works for you. We appreciate your knowledge and experience and not shying away from challenges.
Thanks for that. I will need to do my set up in the near future and have watched a ton of "Instruction videos " on UA-cam This is the first that actually makes sense ! My Defender 130 has two alternators so was going to keep the "systems" separate so this should work. Thanks again
Great to hear! With two alternators you can wire the charge controller up to the second alternator (instead of to the starter battery) and you should be all good to go!
Great system and nice clean DIY electrical built Dan ! I also built my Renogy system on my sailboat and use Induction cooktop and it still works perfectly. I love that induction doesn’t heat up the cabin (camper in your case) like butane or propane flame do. And propane causes humidity as well. So great choice. Does your charge contrôler also take a charge from your alternator automatically (only when driving) without a DC to DC charger ? That’s cool ! Renogy gets a bad rep. from irregular poor customer service but I also had no issues. Cheers from 🇨🇦
Yes indeed! Lots of saving and planning and building this time around, but I have to say I think it's going to be worth it. Jeep is in a shipping container now! instagram.com/p/C-alEWRCina/?img_index=1
Can the battery support the full current draw from the 3kw inverter? Seems to me Renogy recommends the 300ah batteries for that inverter since the bms can handle more output.
No, the battery will do 200Amp continuous, which is about 2500kw. It's plenty for my induction (the only big load on it).. and I may add more batteries down the road anyway.
I'll be very interested to hear how that circuit breaker holds up for you in the engine compartment. I tried a couple of different 40A models for my 30A Renogy DC-DC and they all failed, tripping at well below their rating when it got warm under the hood. I just ended up going with a fuse. I had another circuit breaker between the DC-DC and the house battery and it failed on a trip and I replaced that one with a fuse as well. Not as convenient (it's nice to be able to easily turn off the power) but certainly more reliable.
Dan, I'd reconsider having a breaker in the engine compartment. I made a similar setup to yours last winter (Renogy One Core, Renogy DC/DC converter, Renogy shunt, generic Li battery) and had everything isolated with circuit breakers. The system worked fine in the winter but when the weather heated up the 60A breaker in the engine bay started tripping. The breakers use heat to trip (some breaker manufacturers have a chart for temperature de-rating), and the hot under hood temperatures led them to trip after 10 minutes of driving. Ive since replaced the breaker with a fuse and have not had any issues.
Dan… wish I could convince you to use marine grade heat shrink wire connectors. The vibration dampening qualities of them is most helpful for bouncing around on the road. The corrosion resistance is a plus of course.
@@TheRoadChoseMe with the inconvenient failures I have seen on my commercial trucks and used Jeeps as time and fatigue from vibrations go on - I would say 100% yes. Once you go this route - you will never go back. Shoot me a message - will either send you an example video - or fly up and give you a hand before your deadline. Ps- my Ursa Minor travels with small kit of marine crimp fittings, and quality no cut crimp pliers. Many a job done for me and others on the road.
Well done. One simple thing you might want to change though is that fuse. They are not reliable (in my experience). Get an 'old fashioned' fuse in a proper fuse holder and you'll be better off.
Me either. But I did learn other "teachers" still use the wrong fuse types, and run an oversized inverter for the battery current capability. No use using super size copper when only 200A continuous is possible (unless a second 200A capable battery is wired in parallel). Adding a second battery in 6 months time or more is totally the wrong thing to do, as parallel batteries must be the same manufacturing date.
@@einfelder8262 "Adding a second battery in 6 months time(...)", true. Especially if it is a enclosed one like this. IF one builds a battery of individual cells, one can add some later to the SAME BMS. But you have to deal with probably different capacities of each cell = the lowest one will be the max Amp in the end for all. A ready-to-go LiIon Bat. has its own BMS, not ideal in that case. Here is victron the major brand and they offer the optional monitoring BETWEEN two Bat. in parallel on their shunt. So at least you know than if the 2 Bat. are on different level or not. Actually I wouldn´t suggest a full on elec. cooking in such a small car with limited space to fit big bat. If the bat. just last 1 meal ... PV will take ages to refill that, if you arent in Texas or similar. I just fitted a self-refillable (!) 3kg Propane bootle in my Van, which gives me roughly 3-6 months cooking. And it is just 5kg.
You shouldn't have any circuits that don't have a fuse/breaker on them. This includes the power line for the inverter and for your fuse block. The inverter has a fuse. That does you no good if you ground out that beast of a wire coming right off the battery. The fuse block needs one as well. So, it doesn't melt down when some jack wagon fills it with 40a fuses. Your breakers should go as close to the battery as reasonably possible. I like breakers because you can use them as off switches to isolate the battery.
The battery has built in protection - I tested one of these by direct shorting it repeatedly to see what would happen. Nada. ua-cam.com/video/hlgL72aV-n4/v-deo.html
Very well presented. Given how great the EcoFlow units (and the like) are, I am surprised that people are still building systems like this from components.
You get better specs for less money by building a system.... stand alone units like the ecoflow are good if portability is important and space is extremely limited
Units like the ecoflow have about half the capacity of what I just built, and they can't power nearly as many fused circuits as mine can. I also doubt they can handle 600W of solar input. Mine is also much more serviceable and upgradable should I want to swap out any component or increase battery or solar capacity.
@@TheRoadChoseMe You really shouldn't guess. The most capable Ecoflow has these specs 7.2-21.6kW output 6kWh-90kWh capacity 5.6kW-16.8kW solar input And of course they have many smaller units, some similar to your specs. And that is just one manufacturer. There are several great providers. Yes, they cost more than your installation, since you did it yourself. Those paying others to install a system can put $2000 in just labor cost.
No, those units cost a fortune for their rated power and if you want alternator charging you still have to run cables and fuses and so on. But if someone is unable to do wiring themselves, they can pay through the nose.
And much less energy, much less flexibility and much less ability to upgrade components if required. Those are the jack of all trades, but they are not very good at anything in particular.
I stopped mounting dual battery systems. Way too complicated, too many components, too expensive and too inflexible. Now I use a massive Goalzero lithium ion battery with integrated solar charger and inverter and can be powered by alternator, DC or solar out of the box. Easy to install and use and completely disconnected from the car battery. And can be used in other trucks, at home or on the boat. For me the perfect solution. I use this setup for several years now and appears to be reliable both in extreme heat (45 C) and cold (-20 C).
It doesn't have nearly the capacity of my system, and you can't connect nearly as many accessories (and high current accessories) as I have. Your solution is the jack of all trades, but it doesn't do anything one thing fantastically.
Did you connect the power station directly to the alternator??? Any problems charging both the starter and house batteries??? What size cables for the extended distance (possibly to the rear of the car 6m away)??? The power stations have a 48v system which requires much smaller cables. Ecoflow now sell a booster for the alternator (reducing the charge time by 80%) and the Delta Pro can be fast charged at an EV station in a few hours. No brainer!!!!
We're on the road testing the entire system right now, I will provide an update how the entire setup works, and how cooking full meals with the induction cook top and 200Ah of Lithium battery is working out - Stay tuned!
If you are impatient, you can find out right now on Patreon - www.patreon.com/theroadchoseme
Hey Dan, just a word of caution. Your power system looks amazing and the video super helpful to those new to this but I would caution you against using the cheap Amazon circuit breakers. At least that's what it looks like you've used. I have had a bunch of these fail and they are not properly rated usually either. I strongly recommend spending just a few more bucks on Blue Sea or Bussmann. I've also had better luck with a few of the 'in between' cheap and name brand Amazon names like T Tocas and Stinger. I have a Young Marine brand one from Amazon that is holding up so far as well, yet another inexpensive Amazon brand that has recently popped up. Cheers!
Totally agree, I've had 3 fail in use and a further 2 that are simply way WAY under rated, a 50A that trips at 200A and a 100A that doesn't ever trip as I can't load it over 250A.
I bit the bullet and purchased blue sea items 👍
I want a small quality breaker panel for a overland build thanks
Agree, these fail all the time, or don't trip when they are meant to, I just went for Bluesea MRBF, this is going to be the 1st weak point in the system here.
Yep. Those manual reset breakers have a hard time tripping at the current stamped on them - they are wildly over or under, and when they are installed under bonnet and get hot they fail to operate at all - thankfully they mostly open from the heat and not the other way. Best fuse to use is ANL in my opinion, which is why Renogy supplies one in their stuff. ANL has a good compliance with fusing at the right current.
Mariner here. I second Blue Sea Systems
Odd that Renogy says you can't put battery on side... every other manufacturer specifically says you CAN place a Lifepo4 battery on side! This is one of the big advantages of LFP batteries... you may need to revisit this statement with Renogy.
I don't know what their reasoning is, but they're firm about it.
Also this particular battery still wouldn't fit in that space I cut out anyway
Maybe the cells are actually mounted on their side while the battery is not. Putting the batter on its side could potentially put the cell upside down.
@@bmpwe but that doesn't matter either with anyone else's batteries.
@@veganpotterthevegan well, those aren’t anyone else’s batteries. It’s possible they’re an abnormal design.
@@bmpwe they very likely have the same cells many brands use. There should realistically still be a good reason why they don't want them on their side when it's a non-issue for everyone else
Best greetings from Cyprus! Here there’s amazing old 1989 Hilux d/cabs, and many other 4WDs of all makes and ages. Thanks for the electrical guidance! Stay safe 🕊
Looks awesome!
Given that the inverter puts off more heat than the other components, I am surprised to see it buried below.
They don't put out that much heat, I have the same one and am surprised how cool they run, plus he can't push it to it's limit unless there is enough solar being generated to help the battery, this battery can supply 200A continuous which is maximum 2400w, 3000w needs 250A.
Wait, you mean I don’t need a $1,000,000 Egon hub?
You can’t really take a swipe at someone for buying a Egon while watching old mate drop a kings ransom on boiling a kettle. There’s nothing wrong having a higher end setup, but by the time you’re at that point you are doing it because you can.
@@Alan.livingston oh but I can.
@@ryanbailey6600haha yeah, true that.
The first person to bring a workable 12v induction cooker to market is going to make a killing. Watching people spend thousands and thousands of dollars on running a single hot plate is pretty painful.
I talked to a product design engineer at a well-know company who basically said "The industry will catch up and get there eventually".
Also, for what it's worth, if there was such a thing the only component that would be different in my system is I could remove the inverter. Everything else would be identical, so it's not like I spent "thousands" to get the hot plate alone.
Dan, with 600w and a dc to dc, I think you’ll be able to get by just fine with 200a. I run a 300a battery with 300w on top of my UM J30, no dc to dc, full electric kitchen, and have never ran below 20%. Lookin good. The only suggestion I’d give is to figure out how water will leak from above and make a shield over your inverter to protect it. Yes, I said “will”, not “if”.
Great work overall. Please put an insulated cover on your positive battery terminal. Too easy for a metal object to short across that battery and start a fire.
Pretty sure that can't happen due to the battery management system shutting down power in that scenario. If you haven't seen it watch his torture test of these batteries
These batteries are completely protected. I tested one a few months ago and dead short it repeatedly to see what would happen - ua-cam.com/video/hlgL72aV-n4/v-deo.html
I saw the video. I would not want to rely on that alone. Terminal covers are inexpensive and fail safe.
You got it.
I just finished my 60 day cross country trip with my power system. Induction cooking everyday.
Total of 370 Amp hours of storage, 50 Amp Renogy DC to DC charger, 2000 watt Renogy inverter and one 200 watt Renogy solar panel.
Plenty of power!
That 60A fuse you put under the bonnet will cause grief. When they get hot they cut out. Ask me how I know. Replace with an ANL fuse. The 3000W inverter can draw more power than your battery can deliver continuously. 2000W is the right size for a 200Amp battery.
The battery can deliver 200Amps continuous, and up to 270Amps for 30 seconds.
Right now with the induction on full it's only pulling 120Amps. All good
Dan, so glad you're doing these types of vlog. I really appreciate the detail you've gone into with this build. Stoked for you, and hope you have a fantastic trip.
Awesome, thank you. More to come!
Thanks Dan. Do you know if it's o.k. to hook up the ip67 to an alternator greater than 100 amp? Foresty Forest hooked up his Renogy 60 amp dc to dc to his starter battery and runs a 250 amp alternator. Thanks
You can hook it up to any size big alternator - mine is 250Amps on the jeep and it works flawlessly.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Thanks Dan. Happy trails.
Thanks for taking the time to show us the mistakes you made and what works for you. We appreciate your knowledge and experience and not shying away from challenges.
Blue loctite is your friend. Any metal to metal connection should have it.
great video, i've never felt less threatened by electrical haha
Thanks for that. I will need to do my set up in the near future and have watched a ton of "Instruction videos " on UA-cam This is the first that actually makes sense ! My Defender 130 has two alternators so was going to keep the "systems" separate so this should work. Thanks again
Great to hear! With two alternators you can wire the charge controller up to the second alternator (instead of to the starter battery) and you should be all good to go!
Hope so thanks
Great system and nice clean DIY electrical built Dan ! I also built my Renogy system on my sailboat and use Induction cooktop and it still works perfectly. I love that induction doesn’t heat up the cabin (camper in your case) like butane or propane flame do. And propane causes humidity as well. So great choice. Does your charge contrôler also take a charge from your alternator automatically (only when driving) without a DC to DC charger ? That’s cool ! Renogy gets a bad rep. from irregular poor customer service but I also had no issues. Cheers from 🇨🇦
The Charge Controller IS a DC DC charger and MPPT charger combined into one.
Sounds like your setup has been great!
I bet you can’t wait to hit the road mate… it’s been a long time coming!
Yes indeed! Lots of saving and planning and building this time around, but I have to say I think it's going to be worth it. Jeep is in a shipping container now! instagram.com/p/C-alEWRCina/?img_index=1
Nice to see this all coming together.
Combing the build with tge adventures..❤
That's the plan!
Can the battery support the full current draw from the 3kw inverter? Seems to me Renogy recommends the 300ah batteries for that inverter since the bms can handle more output.
No, the battery will do 200Amp continuous, which is about 2500kw.
It's plenty for my induction (the only big load on it).. and I may add more batteries down the road anyway.
I'll be very interested to hear how that circuit breaker holds up for you in the engine compartment. I tried a couple of different 40A models for my 30A Renogy DC-DC and they all failed, tripping at well below their rating when it got warm under the hood. I just ended up going with a fuse. I had another circuit breaker between the DC-DC and the house battery and it failed on a trip and I replaced that one with a fuse as well. Not as convenient (it's nice to be able to easily turn off the power) but certainly more reliable.
I'll report back if I have any problems. So far so good
Bon voyage!
Dan, I'd reconsider having a breaker in the engine compartment. I made a similar setup to yours last winter (Renogy One Core, Renogy DC/DC converter, Renogy shunt, generic Li battery) and had everything isolated with circuit breakers. The system worked fine in the winter but when the weather heated up the 60A breaker in the engine bay started tripping. The breakers use heat to trip (some breaker manufacturers have a chart for temperature de-rating), and the hot under hood temperatures led them to trip after 10 minutes of driving. Ive since replaced the breaker with a fuse and have not had any issues.
Thanks for the info. I'll keep a close eye on it and change it if required
That looks SOLID mate! Practice makes perfect as they say. This is the part I am honestly looking forward to the most once I start building!
For sure, I really enjoy 12v wiring because it all makes sense.
Dan… wish I could convince you to use marine grade heat shrink wire connectors.
The vibration dampening qualities of them is most helpful for bouncing around on the road. The corrosion resistance is a plus of course.
I'm sure they're very good. The important question is are they necessary.
@@TheRoadChoseMe with the inconvenient failures I have seen on my commercial trucks and used Jeeps as time and fatigue from vibrations go on - I would say 100% yes.
Once you go this route - you will never go back.
Shoot me a message - will either send you an example video - or fly up and give you a hand before your deadline.
Ps- my Ursa Minor travels with small kit of marine crimp fittings, and quality no cut crimp pliers. Many a job done for me and others on the road.
Thanks for the offer, the Jeep is already sealed away in a shipping container!
Amazing job. Buen viaje amigo.
Well done. One simple thing you might want to change though is that fuse. They are not reliable (in my experience). Get an 'old fashioned' fuse in a proper fuse holder and you'll be better off.
Hi Dan, looks great but does the DC-DC Output brown wire actually have a fuse?
This video has quite a bold statement. I actually learned nothing new.
Me either. But I did learn other "teachers" still use the wrong fuse types, and run an oversized inverter for the battery current capability. No use using super size copper when only 200A continuous is possible (unless a second 200A capable battery is wired in parallel). Adding a second battery in 6 months time or more is totally the wrong thing to do, as parallel batteries must be the same manufacturing date.
@@einfelder8262 "Adding a second battery in 6 months time(...)", true. Especially if it is a enclosed one like this.
IF one builds a battery of individual cells, one can add some later to the SAME BMS. But you have to deal with probably different capacities of each cell = the lowest one will be the max Amp in the end for all.
A ready-to-go LiIon Bat. has its own BMS, not ideal in that case.
Here is victron the major brand and they offer the optional monitoring BETWEEN two Bat. in parallel on their shunt. So at least you know than if the 2 Bat. are on different level or not.
Actually I wouldn´t suggest a full on elec. cooking in such a small car with limited space to fit big bat.
If the bat. just last 1 meal ... PV will take ages to refill that, if you arent in Texas or similar.
I just fitted a self-refillable (!) 3kg Propane bootle in my Van, which gives me roughly 3-6 months cooking. And it is just 5kg.
Please, ship it to Antwerp (Belgium), I'll be more than pleased to drive it to North Cape
Hi Dan, Why no shunt on your 12V system?
Don't need one. Every component has bluetooth built in for monitoring so you can see current flow at any time
This is the Smart Renogy Battery, it has inbuilt shunt, everything is fed via bluetooth from this..
You shouldn't have any circuits that don't have a fuse/breaker on them. This includes the power line for the inverter and for your fuse block. The inverter has a fuse. That does you no good if you ground out that beast of a wire coming right off the battery. The fuse block needs one as well. So, it doesn't melt down when some jack wagon fills it with 40a fuses. Your breakers should go as close to the battery as reasonably possible. I like breakers because you can use them as off switches to isolate the battery.
The battery has built in protection - I tested one of these by direct shorting it repeatedly to see what would happen. Nada. ua-cam.com/video/hlgL72aV-n4/v-deo.html
What's the total weight of the vehicle? Were you able to stay within GVWR? Thanks!
It's not actually finished yet!
@@TheRoadChoseMe Interesting. But surely you had to weigh it before putting it in the shipping container for shipping, no?
Hey Dan, what fridge did you go with?
Dometic 50L Upright this time around. It has a small freezer, and I'm curious to see if it's worth it or not.
MMPT 😂
I *always* get that wrong ;)
Very well presented. Given how great the EcoFlow units (and the like) are, I am surprised that people are still building systems like this from components.
You get better specs for less money by building a system.... stand alone units like the ecoflow are good if portability is important and space is extremely limited
@@sharpsticksnz4112 True enough, if your labor is free as in your case.
Units like the ecoflow have about half the capacity of what I just built, and they can't power nearly as many fused circuits as mine can.
I also doubt they can handle 600W of solar input.
Mine is also much more serviceable and upgradable should I want to swap out any component or increase battery or solar capacity.
@@TheRoadChoseMe You really shouldn't guess.
The most capable Ecoflow has these specs
7.2-21.6kW output
6kWh-90kWh capacity
5.6kW-16.8kW solar input
And of course they have many smaller units, some similar to your specs. And that is just one manufacturer. There are several great providers.
Yes, they cost more than your installation, since you did it yourself. Those paying others to install a system can put $2000 in just labor cost.
No, those units cost a fortune for their rated power and if you want alternator charging you still have to run cables and fuses and so on. But if someone is unable to do wiring themselves, they can pay through the nose.
Installing a Bluetti or EcoFlow unit would have been much simpler ;)
And much less energy, much less flexibility and much less ability to upgrade components if required. Those are the jack of all trades, but they are not very good at anything in particular.
I stopped mounting dual battery systems. Way too complicated, too many components, too expensive and too inflexible. Now I use a massive Goalzero lithium ion battery with integrated solar charger and inverter and can be powered by alternator, DC or solar out of the box. Easy to install and use and completely disconnected from the car battery. And can be used in other trucks, at home or on the boat. For me the perfect solution. I use this setup for several years now and appears to be reliable both in extreme heat (45 C) and cold (-20 C).
It doesn't have nearly the capacity of my system, and you can't connect nearly as many accessories (and high current accessories) as I have.
Your solution is the jack of all trades, but it doesn't do anything one thing fantastically.
Trouble with power n
Banks is they are a single point of failure, lower amp outputs and slower 12v charging.
Did you connect the power station directly to the alternator??? Any problems charging both the starter and house batteries??? What size cables for the extended distance (possibly to the rear of the car 6m away)??? The power stations have a 48v system which requires much smaller cables. Ecoflow now sell a booster for the alternator (reducing the charge time by 80%) and the Delta Pro can be fast charged at an EV station in a few hours. No brainer!!!!