I got the blue rolls 2.4 around the same time. My "wiring" looked much the same and was pathetic. They included about 80ft of 24gauge silicone wire and another 20 or so of 2 wire ptfe with connectors on the ends but the JST housings they sent had no pins to crimp so it was just plastic housings. They also included about a quarter of the 18 gauge wiring I needed for AC power to power supplies/relay. No screws for dragon, missing a few more screws here and there. The adda 40x10 fan for hotend cooling resulted in heat creep on my dragon HF hotend which I ended up changing for a genuine sunon maglev fan and mosquito magnum. I've had great luck in the past with standard flow dragons but printing PLA slowly on a stock afterburner with it isn't an option IMO. I will give blue rolls credit for their inclusion of LDO steppers and hiwin rails and the shipping time was far better than formbots at the time. Edit: forgot to add that the bed has a variance of 0.319(looks like a taco even though I only had 1 screw tight and 2 snug with 1 loose) and adhesion with the included textured plate is worse than my 350x350 fysect textured bed. The included foam tape for the panels was too wide and had to be trimmed to fit properly without being visible. The VHB tape they sent me had about a quarter of what the roll shown in video had. I ended up spending another 300 or so after initial kit purchase so not terrible but definitely flakey quality. Some have flat beds and all pre-wired harness with tool head pcb, z stop pcb etc.
Regarding the bed, I think it is question of luck I think. Myself I'm very happy with mine. Their wires have improved as well since I got my kit, because now they supply PCB connections board with ptfe wires with connectors. But, yes, I did my own wiring during the build.
I just got this same kit, just waiting now for a video of the assembly that I can follow. It would be amazing if you could start uploading videos of the assembly process as you go.
Hi, I will make one video for the assembly - timelapse with focus on the more critical stages. My experience with other Voron machines is that the manual is best for step-by-step guidance to assemble the printer, but wiring/firmware/final tuning are the stages where I was spending most time and was looking for additional resources.
The Trident is the best printer to get from the Voron line up I believe. It has all the features of a 2.4 but is simpler and easier to maintain. I would be very interested in getting your point of view on this and on the difficult parts of the build. I'm currently building a v0.1 and had the parts for a 1.8, but will build a Trident directly. Thanks for sharing and thanks for Blurolls to have sent you a kit..
I share your opinion that it is similar to the 2.4 now with the 3 point bed leveling. I was very interested in this feature and was investigating the best buy options for Railcore and Vcore 3. Now that Voron finaly has it, it is better to go with a Voron IMHO . Let see how it goes. I'll start the build and shooting this weekend.
Willl follow. .06mm deviation is not nearly flat enough. I'm gapping with a .09mm feeler gauge which is around .0035". Is this cut from sheet aluminum or is it a genuine cast tooling plate?
Well, based on what I understand from Voron discord a bed is considered flat for this application up to 0.1 deviation. At least you dont need to perform a bed mesh to compensate such deviation. Do you print with very small layer height? Regarding the build plate, how I can say that? Are there any visual signes to guess it? I see it is well machined on the sides and on the corners and top-bottom seems also machined, but I am not an expert in machine tools.
BTW, on my Voron 2.4 I had similar bed mesh with max deviation 0.05 and when discussing with some guys on Discord it seem it is difficult to understand if such small deviation comes from the bed or from the gantry.
They've change it to the silicon cause PTFE from Ali is questionable. Haven't had a chance to find any PTFE within EU for a good price. But I can see some of the vendors selling wire harness and probably it's a PTFE style part. Also PTFE not so fat as silicone so kinda less space less friction inside the chain :)
Thanks Dmitry, I use PTFE from Ali on the SW (1y+) and on the 2.4 for like 8 months. It is fine. I had also some russian military PTFE wires that I bought cheap here in Bulgaria from some old military stock. These were also OK. If you are in the ex USSR, may be check your local production ;)
@@3dpblog Yeap using these PTFE (MGTF) as well :) But Voron team won't approve some questionable PTFE from Ali so that's the reason they're still hesitating to add it into the official BOM.
Voron machines are DIY. You can build them the size you want. The standard sizes for this printer are 250x250, 300x300, 350x350 and so far Blurolls has kits for 300x300 and 350x350 - these are the most demanded. If you want to build a non standard size, you'll have to source the parts yourself (differnt bed, different size profiles). Kits are sold for the standard sizes only.
@@kaihorstmann2783 yes, I think 300 is the optimum for the 2.4/trident. I think people see the v-core 3 available in 500 and think more is better, but it will have the same limitations at this size, no matter the 3030 profiles. Long belts, ringing, etc.
Yes, I am building it right now and so far it going well. I'll replace only the wires in the chains with PTFE wires. Silicone wires are supplied, but Voron specified silicone.
Yes, the parcel is 20,5 kg and it is sent with DHL (here in EU). Alternative is to order parts separetly, most of them are available at the Blurolls store with standard Aliexpress shipping, but I don't know if the sum of the components prices will be the same like the price of the kit. There are also from time to time some group buy initiatives from users in the Voron Discord.
@@3dpblog Unfortunately a lot of things are backordered or just out of stock, and inflation, so I don't have much time to decide. I had my mind made up on this Trident until I saw the shipping cost, really disappointing since I've been trying to decide for months. I can't get a v0.1 because the build volume is too small. I'm not getting a 2.4 knowing the Trident is out. For me this is not a hobby. I bought a 3D printer to design and sell products. I might have to just get an Ender 7 or a couple prusa minis if they have Black Friday deals, and turn my Ender 3 into a switchwire.
@@dangerous8333 If you print PLA/PETG and need capacity fast with low investment, few Enders 3/Prusa minis is OK. I also use 3d printing for work. I am not selling products, but I design custom functional parts for custom projects for advertising at point of sales with one customer. I am facinated by these machines. My hobby is more to make/upgrade a printer than actually printing on it. In order to sustain it I am also thinking how to "3d print for money".
@@dangerous8333 There are other kits that may have cheaper shipping. This kit does look nice, though the Formbot Trident kit is another option which I went with. Shipping was $130 to Texas and I got it within 10 days of order. As 3dp blog pointed out the boxes for these are large and somewhat heavy. For air freight you're going to be paying some amount for shipping. It's still cheaper than sourcing everything individually and paying shipping on multiple orders.
Looking forward to the build video and your impressions of the kit once you have completed the build. Excellent video!
Great info here! Assembly video will be nice :)
I got the blue rolls 2.4 around the same time. My "wiring" looked much the same and was pathetic. They included about 80ft of 24gauge silicone wire and another 20 or so of 2 wire ptfe with connectors on the ends but the JST housings they sent had no pins to crimp so it was just plastic housings. They also included about a quarter of the 18 gauge wiring I needed for AC power to power supplies/relay. No screws for dragon, missing a few more screws here and there. The adda 40x10 fan for hotend cooling resulted in heat creep on my dragon HF hotend which I ended up changing for a genuine sunon maglev fan and mosquito magnum. I've had great luck in the past with standard flow dragons but printing PLA slowly on a stock afterburner with it isn't an option IMO. I will give blue rolls credit for their inclusion of LDO steppers and hiwin rails and the shipping time was far better than formbots at the time. Edit: forgot to add that the bed has a variance of 0.319(looks like a taco even though I only had 1 screw tight and 2 snug with 1 loose) and adhesion with the included textured plate is worse than my 350x350 fysect textured bed. The included foam tape for the panels was too wide and had to be trimmed to fit properly without being visible. The VHB tape they sent me had about a quarter of what the roll shown in video had. I ended up spending another 300 or so after initial kit purchase so not terrible but definitely flakey quality. Some have flat beds and all pre-wired harness with tool head pcb, z stop pcb etc.
Regarding the bed, I think it is question of luck I think. Myself I'm very happy with mine. Their wires have improved as well since I got my kit, because now they supply PCB connections board with ptfe wires with connectors. But, yes, I did my own wiring during the build.
I just got this same kit, just waiting now for a video of the assembly that I can follow. It would be amazing if you could start uploading videos of the assembly process as you go.
Hi, I will make one video for the assembly - timelapse with focus on the more critical stages. My experience with other Voron machines is that the manual is best for step-by-step guidance to assemble the printer, but wiring/firmware/final tuning are the stages where I was spending most time and was looking for additional resources.
Going to get the 2.4 this months!
The Trident is the best printer to get from the Voron line up I believe. It has all the features of a 2.4 but is simpler and easier to maintain. I would be very interested in getting your point of view on this and on the difficult parts of the build. I'm currently building a v0.1 and had the parts for a 1.8, but will build a Trident directly. Thanks for sharing and thanks for Blurolls to have sent you a kit..
I share your opinion that it is similar to the 2.4 now with the 3 point bed leveling. I was very interested in this feature and was investigating the best buy options for Railcore and Vcore 3. Now that Voron finaly has it, it is better to go with a Voron IMHO . Let see how it goes. I'll start the build and shooting this weekend.
Willl follow. .06mm deviation is not nearly flat enough. I'm gapping with a .09mm feeler gauge which is around .0035". Is this cut from sheet aluminum or is it a genuine cast tooling plate?
Well, based on what I understand from Voron discord a bed is considered flat for this application up to 0.1 deviation. At least you dont need to perform a bed mesh to compensate such deviation. Do you print with very small layer height?
Regarding the build plate, how I can say that? Are there any visual signes to guess it? I see it is well machined on the sides and on the corners and top-bottom seems also machined, but I am not an expert in machine tools.
BTW, on my Voron 2.4 I had similar bed mesh with max deviation 0.05 and when discussing with some guys on Discord it seem it is difficult to understand if such small deviation comes from the bed or from the gantry.
Finally, I think it is also important where is the deviation. Here is at the edges, giving large flat area for most of the bed surface.
They've change it to the silicon cause PTFE from Ali is questionable. Haven't had a chance to find any PTFE within EU for a good price. But I can see some of the vendors selling wire harness and probably it's a PTFE style part. Also PTFE not so fat as silicone so kinda less space less friction inside the chain :)
Thanks Dmitry, I use PTFE from Ali on the SW (1y+) and on the 2.4 for like 8 months. It is fine. I had also some russian military PTFE wires that I bought cheap here in Bulgaria from some old military stock. These were also OK. If you are in the ex USSR, may be check your local production ;)
@@3dpblog Yeap using these PTFE (MGTF) as well :) But Voron team won't approve some questionable PTFE from Ali so that's the reason they're still hesitating to add it into the official BOM.
Everyone says that the rails are not genuine Hiwin, but clones, due to the price.
It seems genuine and slide great
Do they have a 500x500 model?
Voron machines are DIY. You can build them the size you want. The standard sizes for this printer are 250x250, 300x300, 350x350 and so far Blurolls has kits for 300x300 and 350x350 - these are the most demanded. If you want to build a non standard size, you'll have to source the parts yourself (differnt bed, different size profiles). Kits are sold for the standard sizes only.
The belts will become just too long, and the frame loses rigidity at this size, thus the whole system will loose precision at high speeds.
@@kaihorstmann2783 yes, I think 300 is the optimum for the 2.4/trident. I think people see the v-core 3 available in 500 and think more is better, but it will have the same limitations at this size, no matter the 3030 profiles. Long belts, ringing, etc.
Is this a out of the box kit? Does it have everything you need to build it in the box?
Yes, I am building it right now and so far it going well. I'll replace only the wires in the chains with PTFE wires. Silicone wires are supplied, but Voron specified silicone.
$200 for shipping to US.
No thanks.
Yes, the parcel is 20,5 kg and it is sent with DHL (here in EU). Alternative is to order parts separetly, most of them are available at the Blurolls store with standard Aliexpress shipping, but I don't know if the sum of the components prices will be the same like the price of the kit. There are also from time to time some group buy initiatives from users in the Voron Discord.
@@3dpblog Unfortunately a lot of things are backordered or just out of stock, and inflation, so I don't have much time to decide. I had my mind made up on this Trident until I saw the shipping cost, really disappointing since I've been trying to decide for months. I can't get a v0.1 because the build volume is too small. I'm not getting a 2.4 knowing the Trident is out. For me this is not a hobby. I bought a 3D printer to design and sell products.
I might have to just get an Ender 7 or a couple prusa minis if they have Black Friday deals, and turn my Ender 3 into a switchwire.
@@dangerous8333 If you print PLA/PETG and need capacity fast with low investment, few Enders 3/Prusa minis is OK. I also use 3d printing for work. I am not selling products, but I design custom functional parts for custom projects for advertising at point of sales with one customer.
I am facinated by these machines. My hobby is more to make/upgrade a printer than actually printing on it. In order to sustain it I am also thinking how to "3d print for money".
@@dangerous8333 There are other kits that may have cheaper shipping. This kit does look nice, though the Formbot Trident kit is another option which I went with. Shipping was $130 to Texas and I got it within 10 days of order. As 3dp blog pointed out the boxes for these are large and somewhat heavy. For air freight you're going to be paying some amount for shipping. It's still cheaper than sourcing everything individually and paying shipping on multiple orders.