Building My Ranalah Tool Posts!
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- Today, I need to prepare my new Ranalah tool posts for their owners. Let's do some machining!
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www.dominicchinea.com
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Ranalah Ltd's Instagram: / ranalahltd
Edited by Dan Cross: / djcfilms - Навчання та стиль
Hey Dom, please stop welding on your milling machine.......all kinds of things can go wrong afterwards.......the DRO can go wonky, weld spatter can get into the tinniest of places and cause you to lose what tolerances you have on the machine, etc.. Also I would slow down the RPM when using the boring head, you should get chips not sparks.......also I would grind off the mill scale from the steel tube to make for a better fit into the casting..........May I suggest that you talk to Quinn Dunki from the UA-cam channel "Blondie Hacks" she can get you set up with milling machine tools.
Dom, you could cast the lips, then you dont need to weld anything. Just simply cut them off.
Holy Moly I can still hear how loud my instructors would have shouted if I had made sparks on a mill!
You could use the waste from the cut tube to check the bore in situ.
Funny when you’re so close to the job you can’t see the obvious short cut.
Hi Dom,
As mentioned by others your first cut on the mill should be slow and deep to get under the hard casting surface; your tools will then last a lot longer and be more accurate. Sparks from a cutter are bad !!
You also should turn up a Go-NoGo test piece so you don't have to disturb the job on the mill - you could use the offcut of tube since it's the correct over size.
As for the lathe job; I'd face the end of the casting to remove the hard surface so when you turn the side each cut doesn't start with a struggle which will make the start oversize and reduce the life of your insert.
Finally are you cleaning the seam weld off the inside of the tube because that will displace your socket casting so it isn't concentric ?
Keep up the great work.
Next time you have the bases cast get 2 opposite pockets cast in.😊
Dom, being just retired in Aprili wish these were out years ago. But living in the U.S I could only imagine what the shipping would be. You have Taken the Ranalah name and far surpassed the product and I say good on you. Every trade school in the U.K should have one of them, along with the high school trade school. I wish you all the success in the world in selling the Ranalah products.
It’s cheaper than you think. They’ll put it in a sea can for a few hundred dollars
Dom if you have too weld on your milling machine or any other machine with electronic components at least turn off the machine to prevent from possible shorting out the mother boards. And cover up as much of machine as possible. Great video as always bud happy Monday.
Yet another absorbing episode, thanks Dom, and I really do look forward to my Sunday evenings knowing you'll be posting.
Just think, everyone used to go made for a Bugatti vice, now your Ranalah kit will become the holy grail of workshop equipment.
Good for you Dom.
We have no idea how any of this works and yet here we are! Fascinating stuff!
Reading the comments section is amazing. So many talented folks chipping in with tips and tricks!
Nicely made. You’re a master craftsman. If I had spare money I’d definitely buy one.
What you need Dom is a CNC mill. 2 hours of fettling on each one sounds like a long time. Also, have you considered putting some bolt holes in the bottom of the stand. That way you wouldn't need to weld the lugs on.
bolts in the stand means a workshop can anchor it to a concrete floor too.
I've never seen a saw like that in action! Pretty cool.
Another Wonderful Sunday with Dom ! I am a long time fan of the Channel.
Cheers From California 😎
That 20 mins flew by! Really enjoyed that.
When you put the top press fit piece in I thought it might start pushing the whole pole through at the bottom, but it didn’t🤣
what you need is an old deep chest freezer to keep your ice-creams in and deep enough to put a tube in before fitting then the plug .....when tube has warmed up
Wow. That was tense watching those pink lines disappearing! 😮
(Glad you mentioned £££ cos we sat here saying "I'm not sure £600 is sufficient!")
Great job.
Hi mate. Couple of ideas that could help. Use a shorter off cut of the pipe to check for size without having to take the base off the mill. Also maybe look at a cutoff switch at the bottom of the saw range to cut the power automatically so you don’t have to watch for it. Looking good on the tool stands. Nice work
I would have an internal micrometer or bore gauge , the spikes from welding could affect electronics , do the castings sit to de-stress , having worked in various engineering places understand the Human pressure ,love your videos
You are keeping history alive. Awesome!
Hi Dom'. Put a soft interface on your DA it makes flatting curves a lot easier . Why not drill and tap the base x2 and simply bolt a fixing block to the base to keep it in situ. Love that "wobbly " centering device . Cheers Dom 😊
Enjoyed the show today like it’s been said i would love one but being on the other side of the pond, I also would love a mini Ranalah,the tool stand you showed at one point. Was born with good looks and little money.💵 😂Keep up the good work and I wish you the best.
Each time I see these my self control about buying one is eroded slightly more! Well worth the money... stop it Mike...
Thank you Dom great to be preserving the Heritage skills.
Freezing the Tube and then pressing it in would help, freezing the top cap would also help with getting that installed once the tube is back to normal temperature, you can pick up chest freezers quite reasonably priced second-hand.
Love the comments, Dom ..
.. whatever you do.....
.....50 'Retired Engineers' tell you 50 different ways to do it better ......!!!
Such amazing work. Dom, it’s amazing to see how much love you put into each piece.
Hello Dom, tbh I would charge around £800 per stand. There is an incredible amount of work you've put in there, I know it's a "get the Ranalah brand out there" but a fair day's pay for a fair day's work, as the ol' saying goes. Great video!
Love the dancing saw. Rumour has it that it’s appearing in Strictly this year…
I love that old hack saw.
For the next batch consider tack welding a couple flat bars across the base protruding out a bit for clamping. Then when you cut off your tack welds they will be hidden. Three recesses in the future casting would allow you to drill and tap holes to secure the unit to the floor. As far as the future goes, I predict that the Ranalah castings will be re-purposed as a crescent mounted on the top of Parliament, St. Pauls and Westminster Abbey.
Building history. Great job.
Great Vlog Dom! Love the use of the "wobbly bit"; very clever!
Great to see the stands being made, if I.lived in England I'd buy one .
Ooh something different exciting
Are these going to numbered and recorded, then as you hope, in a hundred years time someone might be watching this video of theirs being made, how cool would that be 😁
Hi Dom. Good to see the making of the parts needed to work with the Ranalah.
Hi Dom, Looks good, just don't forget to breathe, your doing well 😊, wish I could help 😅, All the best Brian 😃
Adam Savage just did a pretty cool video restoring one of those automatic hacksaw machines.
Hello Dom, looks like you’ve got all sorts of helpful advice regarding mitigating the risk of the press fit operation. But also please consider machining to a decent slip fit and using an appropriate Loctite compound. Far less stressful and just as strong (if not stronger) and also easier to disassemble if needed. And I concur with those suggesting to cease and desist from welding on the milling machine table. Why open yourself up to those potential problems? Wishing you success with this line of products.
Very nice. Just a suggestion: Rather than milling out the center diameter of the base, if the bed of your lathe is long enough, chuck the steel tube in your lathe and use a steady rest to support the end, then turn the tube diameter at the chuck end to the size needed to press into the base. After turning, cut off the inch or so that was held in the chuck. Simpler to setup and faster.
But...(and I'm not a machinist)... the milling-out of the base removes the rough finish from casting, and ensures the steel tube is dead centre. Your suggestion doesn't address either of those. Would you get a tight-enough fit if the casting is left rough?
Brilliant episode Dom, as always!
Dom it's great to see you doing precision engineering, but if you had had the pattern with a shoulder on the bottom of the tube hole, you could bore that out much more loosely an to not even an interference fit and just use loctite to fix the tube in. That could save you absolute hours of work and make them a bit more profitable for Ranalah. The same goes for the top piece, turn it straight two thou under size and loctite in the tube, Simples!
Totally agree with your final sentiments.
Love that sewing machine saw .
I wish I had the enthusiasm to do this sort of stuff but watching is so satisfying
Cheers Dom
Great job,slow and steady wins every time, 👏👏👏👍🏻👍🏻🤠
Your cutoff saw should be STEAM POWERED!😃😁👍🏼👍🏼
Nice work Dom, British as well !!!. 😀😀.
So good as always Dom.
Great hand crafted work Dom. Save yourself some anguish by placing a load spreading plate beneath the stand base when using the press - it will minimize fracturing risk.
Came here to say the same thing.
A couple of comments regarding your mill. First, you could use the auto down feed for boring. It looks like your mill has two or three different feed rates to choose from. The other thing is that your mill sounds like it may have a bearing going bad.
Just brilliant, Dom.
Nice gradient on the one in the background. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Dom. Lots of comments made. I was wondering if a simple frame could be fabbed up like a bridge to clamp it down. The forces for boring are pretty low. You could snug the base against some stops (simple turned pieces) to ensure it won't move and the bridge would hold it down. The only other thought that occurred to me is an aesthetic one. Having the Ranalah lettering around the bell would look great and could be bigger. Great job, though. I applaud your endeavours. Mart in Solihull.
Why don't you cast in a couple of lugs with holes onto the sides of the base, it would make it easier to hold down on your mill and it could also be bolted to the floor if required
Kinda my idea. I thought about casting ears into the base like what you welded on but then could be ground off or left if the customer wanted them...maybe if they were left on they could be drilled and used as anchoring points by your customers.
Or, cast a flat spot on both sides that can be drilled and tapped for removable feet. Nothing to remove then and if needed by the owner an easy add-on.
Or French the holes into the base, so no lugs to trip on, will be super strong and won’t affect casting.
Or....leave him alone to do what he wants ....and just watch.....!!?
@@andymccabe6712 - Throughout his video series, Dom has expressed much gratitude for the skilled craftsmen offering the wisdom of their experience to improve his techniques through the medium of comments!
Dom!!! It's time to start making a Ranalah Pneumatic Plenishing hammer using the same body as the Baby Ranalah wheeling machine...
You can make a simple fixture like a barrel hoop to hold the casting on the mill. It just needs to be smaller than the largest diameter of the casting and can be a simple square frame with lugs for the clamps. A circular frame would be a more precise fit.
Then you won't need to weld lugs on the casting
11:44 11:47 *OR make a plate or use a large washer , that fits inside the hole feature in the casting and bolt it down with one bolt into a T-nut in the bed slots*
Wow, absolutely love seeing that saw work!
Hi Dom! I’m sure you receive lots of suggestions and advice, but here is mine regarding holding down the casting. Could you machine up a yoke that drops over the casting boss and use that to fix it down to the table of your milling machine? Welding steel onto that lovely casting just seems so wrong. Love the projects and your videos. Best wishes and stay safe. Stan
Just found your channel and is now on my watchist. Impressed with what you do. Andy from NZ.
oooh ... Ranalah... nice !
Great work, and a great legacy for future generations to appreciate your craftsmanship and care. 😀
Great thanks for creating this
Great vid fantastic castings great craftsmanship 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome stuff, the base if it was a lot lighter would make awesome workshop light shades
Good looking addition to any metal working shop.
they look great 👍
Great job
Well done Dom.
One can use the cut off tube to check fit.
Dom, I would have thought it would be wiser to have press fitted the insert into the tube first before pressing the tube into the base. Thereby obviating the possibility of pressing the tube further into the base than is required. I know the tube took more force than the insert but if your tolerances were a tad off on boring the base the insert may take more force than the tube. The other alternative is to put a spacer under the base so that it’s physically impossible to press the tube further in.
Brilliant!
I've always wondered how the centre-finders worked! You learn something new every week here. Edit: to reduce cracking the base, have you thought of heating the base/cooling the tube?
I recently found a love for boring bars on our CNC routers, they're much better than end mills for several operations such as pockets and facing in fractions of MM each pass. You should look to fit a slow drip feed to that saw to allow you to let it get on with it while you do other things.
There is another way to fit the tube in the base casting.
Get an old chest freezer and crank it to -20 degrees C, place the tube inside until it’s really cold then press fit by hand.
Re milling the casting hole to size cut off a small piece of the tube and turn a slight taper, then you can pop it in and check the size without moving the casting from boring head.
Steve
Have you considered putting a small step in the casting at four quarters so you don't have to weld a tab? It could be below the rim (set in) so not visible from the top. Would reduce your cycle time and iexpect easy for the casting maker to do.
Nice Dom, I never knew these existed. I made one out of a old truck brake drum and 100/100mm square post and then fabed up a hardy post hole out of some 1/2 plate then as out here we get those Chinese crap dolly posts that have a 2"x 1/2" post to them I made a slot up and fitted that to the side of it so I can use both styles and also gives me the ability to make any design to use in it.
But wish I could afford one of these.
If you cut a short piece of the insert tubing *that will fit* under the mill tooling , you can use it as a test gauge.
The tubing is all the same diameter , short pieces and correct length pieces.
And , at 65 , I thought I was becoming senile.
Buy a bag of ice to chill the insert before you press it in if you don't have a fridge in the building
Great video reminds me of the years I spent in a machine shop with similar machines. Have you though of lean to clamping to hold the casting nearer the top of the base
Oh dear, Dom…welding cast iron….and on your nice mill….
There’s better work holding ideas…a Fixture plate or pallet with radius grips…that stuff has all been done before by great British machinists.
They’re still around
What’s wrong with welding cast iron?!
Nice
You can highlight the cast lettering using a paint roller or sponge
What you need Dom is a CNC mill. 2 hours of fettling on each one sounds like a long time.
I can understand you not wanting to heat the base casting, since it is such a lump, but why don't you get some liquid nitrogen to shrink the tube? It will be a lot cheaper than breaking a casting and will certainly drop the pressing force by a considerable amount.
Just a household deep freeze should do?
@@petesamuels3104 Maybe, depends on the interference and the freezer, -18 may not be enough though without heating the base casting too, and that defeats the purpose somewhat. Liquid nitrogen isn't that tricky to deal with in small quantities, though I don't know how much BOC charge these days.
Weld up a steel strap that goes over the base stump and bolts down in the t-slots on either side
Awesome Dom. I would say that you can take a lot heavier cuts at each pass, both with the boring bar and on the lathe. My machines are considerably smaller than yours and I would cut that hole in the base in around 15-20 minutes and the same for the top piece
The box section you
welded to the casting should be longer with a bolt each end to fit the outer keyways
I was taught that ‘donkey saws’ cut on the back stroke, try reversing your blade.
Wrong, if you look carefully it only cuts on the forward stroke, the oil in the dash pot holds the blade off so that it is clear on the back stroke. That way the teeth dont drag on the back stroke and wear the edge off.
Dom, how about making a jig to get the centre of the castings, make it quicker. Another great video tho. Looking forward to the next episode 👍👏
It wouldn’t be bad to raise the price 100 pounds so there’s a little profit in it for you. Also a wood jig to turn the circle to a square might be just the thing for milling
Dom. Lock your donkey saw stable. Rocking is wasting saw power, the energy is going in to moving back and forward, Even a couple of chocks would do for starters 😁 PS my Sundays are not complete without your channel!
Maybe you could explain some of the uses for the tall post stands.
Try and warm up the casting first. Try and use a electric blanket.
Dm, that weight at the botom of the saw top, serves a weight for the saw to saw harder, the further forward you move it the harde the pressure on the saw.
👍
How about laser cutting a mounting frame to hold the base down.
It could consist of a doughnut that fits over the top and the n has two shaped parts welded on that run down the sides of the bell shape and have mounting holes for bolting to the slide.
Because of the mass of the casting it doesn’t need a lot of force to hold it in place.
Steve
👍😎
It probably wouldn't detract from the look of the base if you had two small pockets cast into it for clamping when machining.
Could you not make a fixture jig to mount onto the bed of the mill to hold the base casting? I'm sure you could whip something up to use without to much time expenditure.
Have a hold down lug on the casting pattern then disc cut it off after rather than weld on cast
These would be good for panel stands and body shell stands. Solid heavy posts that are mobile. Bit pricey for that, I'll stick to may wooden barrels! LOL!