¿Is it safe to shoot .22 WMR in a Flobert 6 mm revolver (Iver-Johson circa 1900?) with adapted both firing mechanism (annular) and new barrel? ¿Will the frame, the upper breech and cylinder withstand the explosions? Many thanks. Roberto from Argentina.
Hi thanks for the question. I honestly couldn't say if that would be safe or not. Always error on the side of caution, therefore I would NOT attempt it.
I have one that the trigger will not reset. Is the trigger spring the one under the trigger guard or is it the one below the hammer spring in the grip? So confused. Everything works excep you have to pull the trigger forward all the way for reset.
First time I saw a top break revolver was in 'Lawrence of Arabia'. I just picked up a model 3 with a handful of ammo for my birthday. It was only $50. The handles (scales) have been swapped with antlers, which is pretty cool, but the screw that holds them in is completely shaved off so I'm not messing with that. I'm not planning on shooting it, but it seems to function great. No single action though. I'm not sure if that's normal.. double action only.
Hammer doesn't stay back, I'll have to see about getting a picture and sending it to you. Be easier over an email if I can get your address. I'll do that over the weekend.
@@notsure1686 mikesgunworld@gmail.com That's a problem with the sear - most likely worn down. very repairable. I believe I show the exact problem in part 3. I switched out hammers and it went back to DA/SA.
@@notsure1686 mikesgunworld@gmail.com. it's a problem with the rear sear. Look at the 8 minute mark in part 1 of the series - I highlight the exact same problem.
Not as hard as you might think. Sometime you have to buy a parts lot to get exactly what you are looking for, but believe it or not eBay is a good source.
yes - i corrected myself several times in the video and in one of them i added verbiage indicating that. it was such a doh moment. it happens when you try to get a lot in one take.....
Hello I have a S&W 38 top break as well S/N: 58,XXX the break part is seized. I have gotten the grips, the hammer, and main spring removed but I can’t get the gun to break in half. Any ideas or suggestions?
Have you tried taking the screw out? I would spray it down with Kroil or something similar. Let it sit overnight. Then take out the screw. Be careful because there is a spring in there.
Forgot Tombstone
Great video! Extremely informative!
Many thanks Mike. Wise words.
I have one dated from 1885.
¿Is it safe to shoot .22 WMR in a Flobert 6 mm revolver (Iver-Johson circa 1900?) with adapted both firing mechanism (annular) and new barrel? ¿Will the frame, the upper breech and cylinder withstand the explosions?
Many thanks. Roberto from Argentina.
Hi thanks for the question. I honestly couldn't say if that would be safe or not. Always error on the side of caution, therefore I would NOT attempt it.
Great video thank you. Trigger spring came out in two parts… I think I know why it wasn’t resetting.
Good news
I have one that the trigger will not reset. Is the trigger spring the one under the trigger guard or is it the one below the hammer spring in the grip? So confused. Everything works excep you have to pull the trigger forward all the way for reset.
@@douglascatron9073 yep it's the spring under the trigger guard. Scroll through part 3 of the series, i show exactly how it needs to be seated.
Excuse me, I have the same one but I don't know what caliber it is if it is 38 lagro/short or special
The revolver in the video cambers a Smith & Wesson .38 That is a specific cartridge and a little hard to find. It's very different from .38 special.
Thanks for these videos! they help me a lot to take apart mi great grandfathers revolver
glad they helped!
How much is this gun worth today?
they don't really hold their value. under $500?
THE EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE SIDEPLATE IS TO TAP THE FRAME WITH THE HANDLE OF THE SCREWDRIVER .
good tip - thanks
First time I saw a top break revolver was in 'Lawrence of Arabia'. I just picked up a model 3 with a handful of ammo for my birthday. It was only $50. The handles (scales) have been swapped with antlers, which is pretty cool, but the screw that holds them in is completely shaved off so I'm not messing with that. I'm not planning on shooting it, but it seems to function great. No single action though. I'm not sure if that's normal.. double action only.
It should be both double and single action. Can you send a pic?
Hammer doesn't stay back, I'll have to see about getting a picture and sending it to you. Be easier over an email if I can get your address. I'll do that over the weekend.
@@notsure1686 mikesgunworld@gmail.com That's a problem with the sear - most likely worn down. very repairable. I believe I show the exact problem in part 3. I switched out hammers and it went back to DA/SA.
@@notsure1686 mikesgunworld@gmail.com. it's a problem with the rear sear. Look at the 8 minute mark in part 1 of the series - I highlight the exact same problem.
I bet finding parts for it would be hell.
Not as hard as you might think. Sometime you have to buy a parts lot to get exactly what you are looking for, but believe it or not eBay is a good source.
Buenas como me leva usted podría decirme donde puedo conseguir partes de ese revolver?
Try gunbroker.com, ebay oldfirearms of idaho
Cylinder not barrel
yes - i corrected myself several times in the video and in one of them i added verbiage indicating that. it was such a doh moment. it happens when you try to get a lot in one take.....
@@MikesGunWorld sorry .. I obviously had too much time on my hands.
Hello I have a S&W 38 top break as well S/N: 58,XXX the break part is seized. I have gotten the grips, the hammer, and main spring removed but I can’t get the gun to break in half. Any ideas or suggestions?
Have you tried taking the screw out? I would spray it down with Kroil or something similar. Let it sit overnight. Then take out the screw. Be careful because there is a spring in there.
@@MikesGunWorld Thank you for responding. Are you asking about the hinge screw?
@@F1MechNoahther should be a screw that holds the top break in place.
@@F1MechNoahwatch at about the 23:43 mark
So that pin at 8 minutes in, WILL NOT move. So am I done? Or any tips?
Have you tried a rust remover or liquid wrench? Soak it over night. I’ve had to soak parts on other take downs and it works.
@@MikesGunWorld I have it soaking in pb blaster currently. I’ll try again after a day or two
Let me know how it works. Some of those old pins can be stubborn
@@MikesGunWorld what pin punch size was you using for that little pin?
@@slipjointguy That is a 1/16th pin punch