So cool to see these older Racor filters; my father had a whole lot to do with many of the components for those filters during the 1980s. I can remember as a young kid my father designing some of the die cast molds and/or injection molds (for the bowl). These were all done prior to CAD, all done on the drafting board. Can’t tell you how many of the check balls were around my house as a kid lol.
Really glad to hear it. This video, and actually lots of the "boat work" videos we've been producing this year, seem rather dull to me. Feels good to know that some of these videos are helpful despite them being one's that I'm not particularly proud of.
Agree a useful explanation of very expensive and I think highly overrated filters. I would much rather have a simple spin on filter that never leaks . They cost maybe $20 …the see thru water trap is sort of useful but you can get just a water trap with drain if you want to see if there’s water in fuel….. Cheers Warren
I’m using this video to rebuild SIX separators, four large and two small on a 80ft party boat. Thank you, you have two VIP section front row seats in heaven just waiting for you guys 😀👌
Well you guys compliment each other very well. Ben, we’re you an auto mechanic at one time in you life? You do all of the mechanical repairs with confidence…
Mechanical Engineer, amongst other things, but never an auto mechanic. I'm happy to hear that I seem confident. Truthfully, I'm often not entirely confident, but I really have no choice but to take a crack at it anyways, so I just do the best I can.
I could never sit down and organize nuts and bolts like that. I ask a Dr about it once. I don’t know what HD is but apparently I have eighty of them. Loved the video.
Thanks for this! We are currently crushing Florida’s West Coast and for the first time ever are running low on fuel. While doing pre movement maintenance I noticed this issue. The good thing is that we have an inline pump so I can run it if needed for the next, very short, 4 hour jump if there are any issues. But this tells me it’s time for a rebuild. Thx again and keep on keeping on! 🍻
This will be my go to video for working on my really dirty (right now) twin Racor Filter Manifold. Although, I envy you and your nice large engine room, whereas my Westsail 32 engine room is quite cramped to access the filters.
That's really nice to hear. I was hoping it would be a helpful resource to someone else who has to rebuilt those Racor filters. I was searching for one, myself, but wasn't able to find anything helpful at the time.
@@Sailboatstory Well let me tell you, I completely drained, disassembled completely re-cascaded and clean top and bottom ends of both my Racor filters , following your video to the tea and I have a nice clean filters top and bottom now. Thank you so much. I agree I could not find the video with the detail that you provided, so thank you for taking the time to put it together. And welcome to the Westsail family!❤
One more note to add you mentioned that you edit your videos on that shelf. You're very good at editing your programming. A lot of people would like to watch you headed to learn your craft.
I appreciate the admiration, but don't be mislead. I likely appear to know more than I actually do simply because I have no other choice other than to figure it out myself. Our low-budget lifestyle requires that we do it all ourselves rather than bringing in a "pro". It's amazing how much one can do oneself when there's really no other option available.
Nice job on the Racor rebuild. When putting the lid gasket in place, it is easy to "roll it over" and hard to notice it is not in flat. Something to be aware of. Also, I found it's a good idea to put a little tension on the lid when tightening the "t" handle and then rotating the lid a couple turns before the final snugging. How long did it take to sort all the nuts,bolts,screws etc? It may not be a bad idea to put some of that "non skid" material you put in lockers between the plastic organizers and also working out a way to lash the whole pile to the shelf since those plastic thru hulls look pretty vulnerable.
I've been living on my 1983 Irwin 38' center cockpit just down the street from Casa Rio Marina. (Sailing and living aboard for the past 23 years) I've been watching you since you purchased Sand Flea. I guess you bought Sand Flea from Greg? Well done on your installation.
Yep, that's right! He was great to work with when we bought our first boat. We checked back often when we were shopping again but doesn't often have boats as large as the one we were looking for. 23 years, wow! That's impressive.
Greg the good guy. He's helped a lot of people here locally. 23 years, it seems just like yesterday that I dumped the house and move aboard. People ask what it's like? I say it's the endless location. Cheers!
Great job Ben. For most of us do it yourselfers if we had to explain or show how many times we messed up before we got it right there would be no end to the video. LOL Just git er dun and get your butts back on the water.
Another great video! Have you guys begun heading south yet? We left the Jacksonville area and moved to Titusville where its a bit warmer. Keith & Janet aboard SV Grace
The four way valve . Did you even take it out and spray it with PB blaster and wd 40 ? I had an issue with my racor 75/900 and it was the 4 way valve had oxidized . Took it out and spreyed it z
Even without the "anti-backflow device", it seems that if your fuel was going back down to the tank, there's a leak, somewhere. I think there must be air leaking into your fuel lines (or perhaps the filter assembly, itself) because as the fuel gravity feeds back to the tank (if it's not empty - tank draw tube is submerged in fuel), something has to displace that fuel (in this case, air).
@@Sailboatstory I see that, and I agree it's a good thing you did. Otherwise, the fuel would gravity feed back down every time you changed the filter (or removed the lid). I'm trying to help people who watch this video understand that if everything else is properly sealed, the check-ball should not be a factor (unless removing the lid of the filter) - could help for troubleshooting some situations. Perhaps re-seating/re-sealing the rubber bowl seal was helpful in resolving the other leak (air getting into the fuel bowl, allowing fuel to gravity feed back to the tank)? Here's another thing that might be helpful... My fuel tank has been de-laminating for a few years - lots of crap that looks like flakes of paint. Recently, it got so bad that I was only able to travel about 20 miles before the 30-micron primary filter would become clogged. I removed the tank access cover (where the suction and return lines go into the top of the tank), and hooked up a 10-GPM fuel transfer pump to a 10-micron 25-GPM fuel-bowl in as a means to re-circulate and filter the fuel directly from the 38-gallon tank, and back into it (fuel polishing). I did it for 30 minutes with the nozzle pointing to the front of the tank, let the pump/motor assembly cool for 30 minutes, then ran it for another 30 minutes with the nozzle pointing to the rear of the tank (total of 1 hour of pump running). I put the tank cover back on, got everything properly re-connected, and I've seen a significant improvement. The vacuum gauge connected to the suction side of the regular fuel pump reads much lower for much longer (indicating the filter doesn't become clogged nearly as frequently). Again, I hope that some folks might find this information helpful.
The real key to organize and miscellaneous parts that have been removed from things and devices is to tagum and bag them as you remove them. Even if the screws are Rusty no longer usable I still group them from where they came from. It makes it easier to find the correct replacement for them.
@@Sailboatstory I bet if that leak wasn't there the fuel would not have drained back into the tank. But at least you know the non-return valves are good now.
@@millzee60 I wondered the same thing. To test, I repaired the "air leak" first just to see, but alas, the bowl still drained in about 15 minutes. It was a combination of problems, but it hasn't leaked down at all since the repair.
It would have been marginally easier if they had already been moved inboard with spacers, but if I were to have to do it, no, that would have made the process more difficult.
Oil is not what you use for the o-ring. Silicon grease is what you need. Oil breaks down the rubber and will cause it to fail. You can get it from amazon or a dive shop lowes Home Depot
@@Sailboatstory just because they say to do that doesn’t mean it’s the proper way to do it. Their goal is for you to buy new ones once they wear out faster than they should
So cool to see these older Racor filters; my father had a whole lot to do with many of the components for those filters during the 1980s. I can remember as a young kid my father designing some of the die cast molds and/or injection molds (for the bowl). These were all done prior to CAD, all done on the drafting board. Can’t tell you how many of the check balls were around my house as a kid lol.
So incredibly useful! So few videos on Racor even though almost everyone has one. Thank you!
Really glad to hear it. This video, and actually lots of the "boat work" videos we've been producing this year, seem rather dull to me. Feels good to know that some of these videos are helpful despite them being one's that I'm not particularly proud of.
Agree a useful explanation of very expensive and I think highly overrated filters.
I would much rather have a simple spin on filter that never leaks . They cost maybe $20 …the see thru water trap is sort of useful but you can get just a water trap with drain if you want to see if there’s water in fuel…..
Cheers Warren
I’m using this video to rebuild SIX separators, four large and two small on a 80ft party boat. Thank you, you have two VIP section front row seats in heaven just waiting for you guys 😀👌
Well you guys compliment each other very well. Ben, we’re you an auto mechanic at one time in you life? You do all of the mechanical repairs with confidence…
Mechanical Engineer, amongst other things, but never an auto mechanic. I'm happy to hear that I seem confident. Truthfully, I'm often not entirely confident, but I really have no choice but to take a crack at it anyways, so I just do the best I can.
@@Sailboatstory Mech Engineer as well…Not afraid to tear anything apart…as long as I has my phone camera…lol.
I could never sit down and organize nuts and bolts like that. I ask a Dr about it once. I don’t know what HD is but apparently I have eighty of them. Loved the video.
Merci!
Wow, thank you very much, Ned!
Nailed the intro music. Blues 'n' sailing. Does it get any better ⛵🎸
That’s what she said… Classic Tammy!
Thanks for this! We are currently crushing Florida’s West Coast and for the first time ever are running low on fuel. While doing pre movement maintenance I noticed this issue. The good thing is that we have an inline pump so I can run it if needed for the next, very short, 4 hour jump if there are any issues. But this tells me it’s time for a rebuild. Thx again and keep on keeping on! 🍻
Thanks for the video
One step closer for the Sea Rat to start sailing to the Bahamas! 🇧🇸 ⛵️
Thanks for the demonstration
This will be my go to video for working on my really dirty (right now) twin Racor Filter Manifold. Although, I envy you and your nice large engine room, whereas my Westsail 32 engine room is quite cramped to access the filters.
That's really nice to hear. I was hoping it would be a helpful resource to someone else who has to rebuilt those Racor filters. I was searching for one, myself, but wasn't able to find anything helpful at the time.
@@Sailboatstory Well let me tell you, I completely drained, disassembled completely re-cascaded and clean top and bottom ends of both my Racor filters , following your video to the tea and I have a nice clean filters top and bottom now. Thank you so much. I agree I could not find the video with the detail that you provided, so thank you for taking the time to put it together. And welcome to the Westsail family!❤
Wonderful. Very happy to hear that it was helpful.
One more note to add you mentioned that you edit your videos on that shelf. You're very good at editing your programming. A lot of people would like to watch you headed to learn your craft.
I am always amazed at how much you know. If I purchased a boat, I would need help just replacing a lightbulb 😀
I appreciate the admiration, but don't be mislead. I likely appear to know more than I actually do simply because I have no other choice other than to figure it out myself. Our low-budget lifestyle requires that we do it all ourselves rather than bringing in a "pro". It's amazing how much one can do oneself when there's really no other option available.
Love the show
Thanks! Glad to hear it.
Nice job. I just passed you in Georgia on the highway. I saw UA-cam sailboat story. On the back of the car.
Very cool! Just grabbing some lunch and we’ll be on our way to the boat. Hope you subscribe. :)
Nice job on the Racor rebuild. When putting the lid gasket in place, it is easy to "roll it over" and hard to notice it is not in flat. Something to be aware of. Also, I found it's a good idea to put a little tension on the lid when tightening the "t" handle and then rotating the lid a couple turns before the final snugging. How long did it take to sort all the nuts,bolts,screws etc? It may not be a bad idea to put some of that "non skid" material you put in lockers between the plastic organizers and also working out a way to lash the whole pile to the shelf since those plastic thru hulls look pretty vulnerable.
About an hour to organize all the hardware. I have foam chunks to take up the extra space around the hardware bins.
I've been living on my 1983 Irwin 38' center cockpit just down the street from Casa Rio Marina.
(Sailing and living aboard for the past 23 years)
I've been watching you since you purchased Sand Flea.
I guess you bought Sand Flea from Greg?
Well done on your installation.
Yep, that's right! He was great to work with when we bought our first boat.
We checked back often when we were shopping again but doesn't often have boats as large as the one we were looking for. 23 years, wow! That's impressive.
Greg the good guy. He's helped a lot of people here locally.
23 years, it seems just like yesterday that I dumped the house and move aboard.
People ask what it's like? I say it's the endless location.
Cheers!
Great job Ben. For most of us do it yourselfers if we had to explain or show how many times we messed up before we got it right there would be no end to the video. LOL Just git er dun and get your butts back on the water.
Love your videos
Tambi !!! I had to replay that a couple of times, you naughty girl (but lovely too)
I absolutely love the intro music.. can you provide us with the details please, Ben?
Also.. @ 8:13 - Yes Tambi.. I heard that!
That's "Why Can't I", by Mississippi Lightnin'.
Tambi's a master of picking up that's what she said jokes.
She makes me blush sometimes.
@@Sailboatstory - Thanks!
How much do you like that huge engine room is a 42’ boat ? 👍👍👍
Compared to the engine box in our last boat where I had to use not one, but 2 mirrors on more than 1 occasion, I like it sooooooooooooooooooo much.
@@Sailboatstory I am quite jealous!👍
Another great video! Have you guys begun heading south yet? We left the Jacksonville area and moved to Titusville where its a bit warmer. Keith & Janet aboard SV Grace
😮Tambi I heard that ! Oh the shame haha
TAMBY no you didn't! "That's what she said"🤯
She makes me blush sometimes.
I herd that whisper
That’s what she said 😂😂😂
slippery everywhere
The four way valve . Did you even take it out and spray it with PB blaster and wd 40 ?
I had an issue with my racor 75/900 and it was the 4 way valve had oxidized .
Took it out and spreyed it z
It was the ball, not the valve. No sense taking apart components that are working correctly.
That engine room is as big as my main cabin! and has standing height! Hellofaboat..
Even without the "anti-backflow device", it seems that if your fuel was going back down to the tank, there's a leak, somewhere. I think there must be air leaking into your fuel lines (or perhaps the filter assembly, itself) because as the fuel gravity feeds back to the tank (if it's not empty - tank draw tube is submerged in fuel), something has to displace that fuel (in this case, air).
We replaced the anti-backflow ball & seat. Been working perfect with no leaks ever since.
@@Sailboatstory
I see that, and I agree it's a good thing you did. Otherwise, the fuel would gravity feed back down every time you changed the filter (or removed the lid). I'm trying to help people who watch this video understand that if everything else is properly sealed, the check-ball should not be a factor (unless removing the lid of the filter) - could help for troubleshooting some situations. Perhaps re-seating/re-sealing the rubber bowl seal was helpful in resolving the other leak (air getting into the fuel bowl, allowing fuel to gravity feed back to the tank)?
Here's another thing that might be helpful... My fuel tank has been de-laminating for a few years - lots of crap that looks like flakes of paint. Recently, it got so bad that I was only able to travel about 20 miles before the 30-micron primary filter would become clogged. I removed the tank access cover (where the suction and return lines go into the top of the tank), and hooked up a 10-GPM fuel transfer pump to a 10-micron 25-GPM fuel-bowl in as a means to re-circulate and filter the fuel directly from the 38-gallon tank, and back into it (fuel polishing). I did it for 30 minutes with the nozzle pointing to the front of the tank, let the pump/motor assembly cool for 30 minutes, then ran it for another 30 minutes with the nozzle pointing to the rear of the tank (total of 1 hour of pump running). I put the tank cover back on, got everything properly re-connected, and I've seen a significant improvement. The vacuum gauge connected to the suction side of the regular fuel pump reads much lower for much longer (indicating the filter doesn't become clogged nearly as frequently). Again, I hope that some folks might find this information helpful.
The real key to organize and miscellaneous parts that have been removed from things and devices is to tagum and bag them as you remove them. Even if the screws are Rusty no longer usable I still group them from where they came from. It makes it easier to find the correct replacement for them.
My wife, Anita loves the man cave...I do too, great idea to have a nice little hideaway to get stuff done!
It sure is! Downright palatial, especially compared to the shoebox "engine room" on our last boat.
So the fuel drained back into the tank. But where did the air come from?
Great question. It came from a leaky fitting that on the underside of the main valve where the diesel exits the filter manifold.
@@Sailboatstory I bet if that leak wasn't there the fuel would not have drained back into the tank. But at least you know the non-return valves are good now.
@@millzee60 I wondered the same thing. To test, I repaired the "air leak" first just to see, but alas, the bowl still drained in about 15 minutes. It was a combination of problems, but it hasn't leaked down at all since the repair.
⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵
That's what she said. LOL
Would it have been easier to move the filters a little inboard by using a spacer between the bulkhead and filters?
It would have been marginally easier if they had already been moved inboard with spacers, but if I were to have to do it, no, that would have made the process more difficult.
Today is Friday the 13th and is this a cowinkydink or what? 0:24
In what way?
@@Sailboatstory the number 13 in the bottom of the green crate 😉
Ahhhh. I didn’t even notice.
That is quite the coincidence.
That’s what she said….. 😅🤣
I did believe you...
I can't be trusted.
Oil is not what you use for the o-ring. Silicon grease is what you need. Oil breaks down the rubber and will cause it to fail. You can get it from amazon or a dive shop lowes Home Depot
Parker Racor, themselves, say regular engine oil can be used to lubricate the seals
@@Sailboatstory just because they say to do that doesn’t mean it’s the proper way to do it. Their goal is for you to buy new ones once they wear out faster than they should
I use plumber's grease on rubber things like that.