Proper Pant Length | A Guide To Men's Pant Breaks
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
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What is the proper pant length for suit pants or trousers? How long suit pants should be is matter of discussion when it comes to the rules of style. Ultimately, however, the length of one’s pants - or how much or little break one’s pants have - is a personal style choice and very much a matter of personal preference, aesthetics and body type.
In this video, I discuss the four of the most common pant breaks - no break, slight break, medium break and full break - and hemlines you’re likely to see as well as some guidance on choosing what pant length is right for you and your personal style.
N.B. The "full break" shown in the video isn't a perfect representation of a true full break. Because of my body type, I don't roll with a wide enough trouser for a pure example of this - the back of the pants should be closer to the ground - but it is the best example I have in my own personal wardrobe.
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Thanks! Today I went suit shopping with my father, and I was as useful as a toddler at the auto mechanics. My dad hadnt bought a suit in at least 2 decades. Times have changed! Good to know this stuff
Just being able to define "pants break" will put you ahead of most of the men out there. Walk into a typical office building and prepare to cringe as you look around! Great video Brian!
😂
@@hespokestyle said so well. ..it's horrible how many people, men, don't properly set the hem and break on thier trousers. From to short, to disgustingly long, dragging and horribly bunched up.... of course I also see way to many who don't tailor the fit to begin with through out the whole trouser. Kinda makes one wonder any more. You pay good money for a good pair of trousers, and you have no pride in their proper fit.
@@ronthompson2366 "too"
Anymore
Anymore
Well done, Brian! I hope filming this inspired you to make more. I know how time consuming it is, especially for a perfectionist like you! Keep it up 👊🏼
The Modest Man thanks, my friend. Learning to let go!
As a larger man, I must admit that my favorite type of break is
Lunch Break. :)
Hahahaha. Nice.
God you made me snort loud
Hahahaha good one
lol
😂😂😂😂
Fantastic video. I've learned from experience that the style you get early in the morning is always longer than the one you get through the day. In my case medium or slight break always becomes no break after a few hours, depending on the fabric. Bear that in mind!
loved this video Brian! Very informative, particularly the part about embracing the style of a well known tailoring house!
Another great presentation.
Good point about considering the suit style. On the late '40's suit that belonged to my Grandfather, it's a full suit, so only looks right with a full break. Most times prefer between a medium and slight break.
Further, the pant break also depends on the footwear. The higher vamp of chelsea cause more break.
Love the look of the "no break". I do both no break and slight break. It looks cleaner on me. Thanks Brian. I enjoy the vlogs.
Great video! Thank you for posting. I am a dress designer and don't do menswear but this helped me with hemming some pants. Super helpful!
Glad to have you back Brian, Keep em coming
Thanks, William. More on the way. Tune in on Thursday!
Well done. One might want to consider sitting as well.
When you sit, the hem will rise considerably.
If you are sitting behind a desk for the most of your meetings, the short or medium break would work best
If you are standing on a stage in front of an audience, the short break will look nice. But then, when you sit down with a short break hem, your ankles and socks will be exposed. So wear argyle socks.
When I go to a party, I am mostly standing up, so I like the medium break. Should I sit down, it does not look like I am expecting high-water flood.
Would love to see a video or even advice specific to tailoring pants for boots (chelsee or dressy lace ups) vs regular shoes on dress pants. I love suits with boots but have a hard time figuring out what pant length to accomodate both...or if that's just not possible.
Brian, you are a man of greatness and we owe a debt of gratitude to you for your fine video and wise council. Full Break Thank you
Haha, you're much too kind. Thanks for the comment.
Really enjoyed this video. Look forward to receiving more.
Seeing more and more of the no break pant length on younger men these days. As a gentleman over 50, I could never pull this look off, nor do I want to either. It definitely doesn't look good on overweight or short men in my opinion, especially when they get it too short and have it cropped. This looks ridiculous in my opnion, but fashion is fashion. Great educational video Brian, so thanks.
Thanks, Frank. Appreciate the comment and discussion. I am 41 years old, myself, and I am still a fan of no break. I'm lean so I feel it suits my body type, plus I am very much a proponent of classic style with a modern sensibility. It will be interesting to see how my tastes evolve as I get deeper into my 40s and closer to 50. The biggest change recently has been favoring pants with a single pleat!
I personally do very like it without a break. In fact, I only have cropped or shortened trousers. I think it looks much more clean and elegant.
But I’m 17 although I think even older people can pull this off, if they have the right proportions.
Full break for me on trouser length I think no break looks ridiculous on older guys like myself 😊
Oh come on, there are floods coming in the springtime because of global warming, you have to be ready with your pants stopping mid-calf where I come from...
Great tips! This is very useful and people can use this for requesting their pant hems online.
I disagree with the idea that no/minimum break is for fashion forward, younger men. I’ve often seen impeccably dressed men in their mid forties or older with little to no break on their trousers, because it’s the hallmark of well fitting trousers. When I look to see how well dressed a gentleman is, I sometimes don’t bother looking at the upper half at all. The shoes and trousers will say plenty...
Thank you Brian, you explained it so well.
Hmm.. Interesting take on going with the house style of bespoke tailoring. Great video, Brian. Looking forward to seeing more!
Gentleman Within thanks, Khoi. IMO when you’re talking about a legendary tailor, you should want what that tailor is legendary for. In the case of Edward Sexton, that’s a strong shoulder and particular trouser length.
Slight break looks the best in my opinion. No break can work as well but it’s really fashion forward
Being a short man (5'5), I always opt for the no break in my pants/trousers. Tapering the leg as suggested to a 7.5 opening for the shoe/pant ratio.
loved it hope you put out content on a regular basis , cause your channel is by far the most interesting in the menswear space
That's the plan and thank you for the compliments! UA-cam is a priority for us this year and we've got 11 videos already shot and in the can. You can expect at least two a week - Tuesdays and Thursdays - possibly more and a live show is in the works. Any topics or format you'd like to see in a live show?
yes reviews of the products of Hss website
You talking general reviews of clothing and brands? Or about the items we have in the HSS Shop? Not sure reviews of our own stuff would be totally unbiased, you know? 😀
the ones on the HSS shop , you can review your own stuff with out being one sided , for examples the watches you can review them and also educate others that are getting intwo watches , or a quick review on the books you carry etc
Alright, cool. Glad to hear your perspective. It's a balancing act - definitely don't want to come off as only promoting our own stuff.
I have 52 years old and use the Full Break , is Perfect For Me , Elegant , Traditional and Vintage
Great video! I have a quick question, how big should the tapered leg hole be for the slight break? You stated 7”-7.5” for the no break and I was wondering what it would be for the slight break. Thanks for the help!
This was really helpful as a 50 year old slim guy with teenage kids... I was embracing the break of 20 years ago... moving on up (the leg that is). Here's to no break. Thanks for the information.
Hey Brian I recently started to watch your videos to up my satirical game and enjoy them very much. I never knew you were from Schenectady; so am I. I grew up in the amount Pleasant area! Keep up the great work
Hey, Dan! Awesome! Glad to meet you and nice to hear you're enjoying the videos. Cheers.
Thank you! This was really helpful!
You got it, James.
Brian, nice content and yes most of the rules should be used as guidelines, however saying that in time the “fashion” of tapered no break will fade and those that embrace this fashion trend will in time regret this choice. The more “classic” style of a full break has stood the test of time and will continue long into the future.
totally agree, same as the ultra slim fit suits that are just something trendy but in time the classic fit is also the one that lasts the longest.
To my eye the full break looks classier.
I think this a personal style and of course style changes over time...
@@LemurKrazy
SO helpful. Thank you!
On point as always, I am just wishing for more content; but anyway it is fine for me to have less content but a quality one just like this!
Keep it up!
Thank you so much. What would you consider "more"? We're planning at least twice a week to start.
Excellent info, very well explained. Us older guys can learn a thing or two about fashion. Never too late to be stylish. Thank you!
@Rob, I think there's a give and take there. Have you seen how young people dress? Baseball caps frontward, backwards or sideways is not fashion forward. It's the lowest form of headwear. Low hanging pants, sneakers with suits, inappropriate attire at weddings, funerals and formal events. Folks dressed in T-shirts, sweatpants with flip-flops in public to go shopping! Don't be so quick to dismiss the good sense you've acquired with time. The fact that you're here, proves that.
thanks, my suit I just got needs to have pants tailored, I am leaning toward full break, good video sir
Depends on your body type as much as your personal style. Glad this was helpful!
Go for full break or quarter break. Full break is ugly
Informative and precise.. Great presentation.
Great video as always. I have a quick question. Do you think that one of those lengths looks better than others while being seated? Thanks in advance.
Tip....when you sit down the trs will go up 2 far if it is 2 short.
Awesome ! Only cream layer of people working in corporates in India 🇮🇳 may think about this. Very nice information. It will be more comprehensive if full shape of the pant is shown. Thanks for🙏💕 making me to think on style of pants.
very helpful advice on no break and leg opening size!
Slight break for me.
Looking forward to Tuesdays and Thursdays Brian.
Tyrone E thanks, my man. Stay tuned!
Does nobody do the military style break? When I was in the Marines they would have the back of the pants touch the top of the welt. And then they would have the front of the pants just touch the top of the laces. This gives a full length look without putting a break in the crease. It gives it a very sharp look.
thats imo the perfect break indeed, i have them and its awesome!
Ooh rah!
Very well explained, thank you.
Truly a timeless suit of clothes must incorporate not trendy or fad related aspects, but a look that says I’ve been doing this for a long time. I am so tired of all these so called experts on UA-cam that are in their late twenties to early thirties and constantly are fad chasers, mostly. Gents Lounge to name one. You know what you’re talking about and I appreciate that!
Preach, brother. Appreciate your comment and support. Over the past year, I've dedicated a lot of time to the channel precisely for some of the reasons you name and also because anyone can pretend to be whatever they want on Instagram. However, put a camera on them and listen to what they have to say (or don't) and you very quickly find out who they really are.
Very true indeed. Keep up the great work!
Slight break or medium break for me.
Enjoying these videos. Glad I found you.
+1990 glad you found the channel as well! More to come.
Sharp information !!! Bryan
Thanks dude! I appreciate the info!
Excellent. Reallly helpful.
Sad that so many offices are going more casual. I wish I could wear a suit everyday and not feel overdressed.
You do have to kind of play to the room a bit, unfortunately. Instead of a suit, why not try trousers and a blazer?
Screw em. Do your thing. You'll be the best dresses and the other guys will feel under dresses.
I completely agree with this. This is precisely what I would do.
RealityHurts923 IKR!, we wish it was like the 1960s and before where people normally wear suites and had class
@@hespokestyle Why not go for a more casual suit, seems like a great opportunity to bring in some lighter tones ;)
Nice video, i like a slight break slight tapper as well
Very informative.
No break is my favorite because I love the socks showing slightly to really bring the colors suit and shoes together
thanks for the video! im looking to get a custom suit for my wedding. What is the standard leg opening for a slight break pant. I like the fitted tapered look and im thinking about a 7 inch leg opening. I just don't want it to be too aggressive since its a suit and not skinny jeans. Im 5'9 and 185 pounds. Do you think a 7 would work without being too much or could 8 work without losing the tapered fit look?
Great video!
Thank you for this contents.
Great information.
Little or no break for me depending on the look and function of the piece I'm going for. It took me visits to 3 different tailors, though, to find one who gave me the desired look with proper length and taper. For some reason, though adequate, they seemed to err in the conservative direction.
I like the full break and im not that tall (5 foot 10 and a quarter and wears 32 or 33 inseam jeans, I am still growing tho bc im only just turned 17 2 weeks ago) nor am i fat anymore nor am I old, I am a teenager, full break just I like it. I think the no break look is a little too common. I see some thin guys who wear full break and they look not bad at all. I don't know why, many people just don't like the full break for some reason, it is underrated. Tall people or people with long legs just look very good with full break jeans.
I currently only wear two brakes. The shivering brake( similar to slight brake) and no brake. Always cuffed to show some sartorial knowledge as most guys only wear hemmed.
For a future video, how about taking about collars. E.g. Different types of collars (Cutaway, button down etc) and which tie knots go with what. (Double four in hand 😉)
Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely planning to do a shirt collar guide.
Wow, sartorial! I learned a new word. Thank you.
Thanks, love those burdeaux full cut shoes. What are those?
Another excellent, informative video.
Many thanks, Harsha. Appreciate the comment.
Thanks for this
Great ideas and options.
Thanks!
Slight break for me. Tapered. Show of my shoes and some of my socks. But still looking clean
What do you mean by that the leg needs to be taped/tapered?Last question,am I doing justice to myself if I tailor my jeans according to where must the jean reach at the leg bottom while sitting down preferebly under those two bones at the sides of the leg?Is it right or must it be above those bones?
Excellent!
Those Burgundy whole cuts are 👌👌👌
At 5'4.5 with an athletic build.
I like slight break for my chinos or dress pants.
Medium break for jeans.
Hey Brain.
Does it make a difference if you wear it with boots ?
I always wear a slight break . It's a crisp look I feel
Awesome.
I like the no break with a cuff.
how should the break look when i'm sitting down in suit pants , they tend to show some skin when i sit down, all guidelines show proper length when standing but none when sitting down.
great one brian!
but there are wrongs - shorter than no break, i.e. above the ankle and those that are longer than a full break. for trousers, ppl should stick to these 4. for casual pants however, there is more leeway.
Ishraq Haider cropped is what I’d call the shorter than no break. I do say that I’m talking about the four most common lengths, not all of them. I’ve never heard of anything longer than a full break...
He Spoke Style yes you're right. I think cropped territory isn't the way to go. Ofc there's nth longer than a full break, but some ppl wear pants so long that they become multiple full breaks LOL :p
I have some fall/winter style pants from club Monaco with a non-cuffed pant leg. My legs are relatively short to my body. Would you recommend a no break hem for these pants?
Tough one. If you have short legs, the last think you want to do is to make them shorter. So I'd say that although you may like the look of no brea, ultimately, you have to dress your body. In your case, I'd probably suggest a medium break. It will help elongate your legs.
Out of curiosity, which shoe size you use?
Thanks
For the medium break look, I think that's an Allen Edmonds McAllister shoe. Are you using shoe trees in your shoes? Because I find them not in good shape. Just my observation.
Like your channel and content, looking forward to see more new videos of u ;)
Adau Chan thanks so much! New video out today at noon!
Well said
@He Spoke Style at the @1:42 mark when you said that the leg open when tapered should be around 7 to 7.5 opening. This taper should it begin around the knee, blew the knee, or at the ankle? Is this rule for all types of pants: jeans, chinos, dress slacks?
It really depends on you. A taper should be gradual. Depending on how wide (or not) the trousers are at the thigh, starting at the knee could be fine. It's the same for all types of pants, in general. For example, I actually had a pair of my APC New Standard jeans tapered. They fit great in the thigh but the leg opening was too wide for my taste. My tailor started the taper from the knee in that case.
Useful 💯👍
I saw guys on street wearing sneakers to match the suit pants , is that full break or medium break ?
nice vid man
Many thanks, my man. More on the way!
What to do if i have a little muscular thighs and narrow calves the pants i get always look narrowed
Hey I just want to know how 30 or 32 for buying clothes on line
Really like your style of videos. Keep up doing the good job!
Thanks so much! Appreciate the comment. Hope you subscribed!
This was the first action ;)
I’ve been doing #1 more and more - especially with slim fit jeans/pants
If it fits your body type, that's the right way to go.
What about those whole cuts you're wearing with the plaid pants?
Do trousers always have to be tapered. I’m 5’10” 132 pound. Should I taper? I have a half break.
More content Brian 👍
Coming up, my man! Tune in on Thursday. I mentioned to another commenter that we're prioritizing UA-cam this year and we have 11 videos in the can already and queued up. You can expect two a week - Tuesdays and Thursdays - to start and more once we get settled in, including a live show on Fridays. Speaking of that, any particular format you'd be interested in seeing with a live show?
are you using dye in your hair in this video? im new here.
Love the "no break" look
@Mister Hand shush you, no break ftw lol
Probably the best pant length video out there. I find most style videos, say no break and that’s it. Well done.
My question is how do one achieve these different trouser length. From your wait to what point on your ankles should your tailor aim for to achieve these different lengths?
Pls I know my question is coming 6years late but I really appreciate an answer
That intro music is everything
Thanks so much.
No break or slight break with 2 inch cuff and 7 1/4 leg opening 💯! Great video my man!
thanks brian, how would you address pant breaks with boots? same?
Good question. A big area to pay attention to is your leg opening. One thing I can't really stand is young dudes with super tapered suit pants trying to rock a pair of chelseas where the pant leg gets bunched up. Important to have something the boot can fit through. Depending on the boot, you're going to have a little more break than with a pair of lace up shoes or loafers.
Full break for me thanks.
Rock on.
Hi brian, what is the best break for jeans? This video is only showing formal pants not casual jeans
Same rules apply. Should be based on your body type and comfort level.
Hehe I'm short, and I did no break lol good thing I didn't listen to my tailor about making it longer
Brian,
First off, thanks for all of the great content and for presenting your astute and classy outlook on style. I have a question about pant length when wearing dressy boots. Is it ever acceptable to hem your pants with less than no break without committing a style faux pas? What I’m curious about specifically is styling a pair of Allen Edmonds Dalton’s (or similar height dress boots) with some nice flannel trousers perhaps with a Navy pea coat and a sweater. With this or similar ensembles, can it be considered permissible to have the pants hemmed a bit less than no break (with a relatively small leg opening at the cuff) to show off the boots a bit more? I think that I know the answer to this question (which is to say that less than no break is not advisable), but wanted to get your opinion.
Best,
Bernard
Hey Brian. I'm about average height (5' 9.5") and between 190 and 200 lbs but I don't look too overweight. Is the medium break a safe break for me?
Yes.
medium or full break looks great
what to do when, you have the right length when wearing shoes and chukkas, but now wear a high 6 inch combat dress boot and the pants just bunch at the bottom / top of the boot?