Doing this job today on kenworth truck , everything you did is what we followed before I even pulled this video, except we didn't have a welded I beam to keep the assembly in place we did it one piece at a time which was a pain I noticed the guy talking about using Loctite we did use Loctite that's into the flywheel 12 star stud bolts and the six bolts that hold the pressure plates. Another thing I seen a comment mentioned was the flywheel usually remaching down but we just reuse the same one we had which had very slight tolerance differences but we were able to modify and adjust to that
That’s a pretty slick tool you made for the flywheel and clutch assembly and installation. I believe the reason the little release bearing block didn’t fall out when you did the final torque on the pressure plate bolts was due to the fact that you did not machine the surface of the Flywheel. Normally when the flywheel is machined,it’s also machined where the flywheel meets the pressure plate bolt holes and that little difference is why the block didn’t fall out.
Could be, I did machine it the last time about 8 years ago and I'm pretty easy on it. Remember the clutch wasn't worn out, it was the rear main seal. I'll do that part on a separate video.
regarding the transmission jack letting down, mine did the same thing until I read the manual and it said if it does that to fill it up with oil some more. I guess it doesn't come full from the factory.
I left the old clutch on the jack pumped up to the height of something next to it and went in the garage an hour ago for something and noticed it only went down about 1/2" after a week. I did crank the valve pretty tight with one hand, but shouldn't have to.
Definitely Some Excellent Tips Gordon I Was Wondering Did You Use Loctite On The Flywheel And Pressure Plate Bolts or is it Unnecessary Thank You For Taking the Time to Teach Others And Me Something New I Didn’t Know 😀😊👍🏼
I purchased a clutch assembly, clutch brake, bearings and rear main seal,for my 2014 cascadia. I need someone to put it on. Are you available??? This video was awesome
Hey Gordon. Great series on the whole process. I just had one question on this particular clip. You mentioned starting the engine and shutting off quickly and got your 3 marks. Is this required and what is the purpose/main advantage of doing this? Shouldn't everything already be where it should be? I would think you WOULDN'T want to start the truck to keep everything aligned where it originally was. Sorry I'm a newbie here on transmissions and I'm just trying to wrap my mind around what you were trying to accomplish by turning the engine on and then off quickly multiple times. Is this similar to balancing your rims? Almost like knowing where the weights have to go to keep them balanced and prevent vibration? Thanks.
I think I remember what I was doing there, if I remember right it was that the motor usually stops on the #1 TDC and the clutch adjust will be on the bottom at that point. I think it was out of time there from the last time I changed the clutch about 8 years before and it didn't like to stop at that point and I always had to turn the motor by hand to get to the adjustment, so this time I was trying to get it to where it likes to stop so the clutch adjust will usually be at the bottom.
Oops, did I see some "red paint" dripping off your finger(s) there? Not many jobs where the mechanic doesn't suffer a little "body damage" during the process. I hope it was only skin deep. This is quite enlightening. Have you done a clutch on this truck (or another heavy truck) before ?
I don't remember springing a leak I may have. This is my 3rd clutch on this truck, 15 years ago, 8 years ago and now. I did one on another truck before I started videos so that makes 4.
I can't get time off to work on the truck much less something else. The mill is firing up the furnaces to start making their own slabs again, and my dispatcher is forcing us to run everyday and laying guilt trips on us if we don't want Saturdays and Sundays also because they think we might loose our spot in the mill when they reopen full blast if we don't kiss their @$$. The spot I got now is ten times more labor and half the average daily earnings as the spot I had before the big lay off 3 years ago. I'm only putting up with this hoping to have my old spot back.
I would not play that game if I did not need to, their job is to keep things moving for the lowest price. If you guys all got together you could easily get more money since trucking rates have gone up since the E log invasion happened. The companies are making alot more money and the drivers are seeing none of it.
We as a kind of small company can't fight with US Steel. We only have 2 drivers in there now since the 3rd driver died last September. The other local company actually next door to us, has about 10 or more in there with us and a couple other locals as well. I was making $800 to $1800 a week for about 30 to 45 hrs. all weekends and major holidays off. 90% no tarp 3 to 7 quick turn arounds a day. That's what I'm holding out for. Then we'll have 2 or 3 more drivers behind me to take out the garbage instead of me all the time. As it is now, we can't hire anyone to put up with this crap yet until it gets moving good again. They've been telling me 2 more weeks well I asked again the other day and heard they added another 2 weeks.
They will tell you anything to keep you in the game, they consider drivers totally replaceable yet they wonder why they spend so much on repairs, towing & down time when they put a clown behind the wheel!
I did the clutch job because the rear main seal was leaking and the clutch needs to come down to change that seal. It was getting close to time to change the clutch anyway so why not put in a new one while it is down. Thanks for watching.
Lots of reasons , rear maim seal, pilot bearing, misuse of gear shifting can wear the teeth , overall wear and tear that accounts for replacement anyhow,. We're doing one of our tracks today a full Crack going halfway through the bell housing and heavy hauling machines finally broke up some shit like the seal and gaskets need replaced. Wasn't noticed at first until the driver saw oil slung everywhere underneath the cab and still drove a cat excavator 300 miles probably shifted willy nilly and damage was done. Not to mention broke a coolant line pulling the 800lb transmission.. Oh what fun
That transmission jack adaptor for the flywheel and clutch is ingenious, very handy
I understand half of instructions you give,but it complements what I know I apreciate it.
Doing this job today on kenworth truck , everything you did is what we followed before I even pulled this video, except we didn't have a welded I beam to keep the assembly in place we did it one piece at a time which was a pain I noticed the guy talking about using Loctite we did use Loctite that's into the flywheel 12 star stud bolts and the six bolts that hold the pressure plates. Another thing I seen a comment mentioned was the flywheel usually remaching down but we just reuse the same one we had which had very slight tolerance differences but we were able to modify and adjust to that
Freightliner Truck step by step... how to keep it running. Doesn't get any better than this channel thank you.
Thank you for watching.
Excellent video. Great pointers. Thanks for sharing.
That’s a pretty slick tool you made for the flywheel and clutch assembly and installation. I believe the reason the little release bearing block didn’t fall out when you did the final torque on the pressure plate bolts was due to the fact that you did not machine the surface of the Flywheel. Normally when the flywheel is machined,it’s also machined where the flywheel meets the pressure plate bolt holes and that little difference is why the block didn’t fall out.
Could be, I did machine it the last time about 8 years ago and I'm pretty easy on it. Remember the clutch wasn't worn out, it was the rear main seal. I'll do that part on a separate video.
If you look on clutch there's 4 caging bolts that need to come out so that that little block can fall off
Very instructive.....true craftsmanship!!
regarding the transmission jack letting down, mine did the same thing until I read the manual and it said if it does that to fill it up with oil some more. I guess it doesn't come full from the factory.
Gordon doing a great job learned a lot
Thanks Eric.
That a Boy Gordon!!!
I have that harbor freight jack and it sinks too. made it really fun to get the transmission back in my truck
I left the old clutch on the jack pumped up to the height of something next to it and went in the garage an hour ago for something and noticed it only went down about 1/2" after a week. I did crank the valve pretty tight with one hand, but shouldn't have to.
Gordon Robertson I'll have to tighten mine down a bunch next time. See if it helps. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@57bagre would you fix my truck sir, I have transportation issue?
Great job again! You make it look easy!👍
Great instructional video my only concern and i could be wrong but it appears that the input pilot surface is extremely worn
Very kind on your explanations. Tanks SR.
Input shaft needs to be left in, torque pressure plate bolts and remove caging bolts or block then input removal.
Definitely Some Excellent Tips Gordon I Was Wondering Did You Use Loctite On The Flywheel And Pressure Plate Bolts or is it Unnecessary Thank You For Taking the Time to Teach Others And Me Something New I Didn’t Know 😀😊👍🏼
Probably a good idea but no I didn't.
I purchased a clutch assembly, clutch brake, bearings and rear main seal,for my 2014 cascadia. I need someone to put it on. Are you available??? This video was awesome
Hey Gordon. Great series on the whole process. I just had one question on this particular clip. You mentioned starting the engine and shutting off quickly and got your 3 marks. Is this required and what is the purpose/main advantage of doing this? Shouldn't everything already be where it should be? I would think you WOULDN'T want to start the truck to keep everything aligned where it originally was. Sorry I'm a newbie here on transmissions and I'm just trying to wrap my mind around what you were trying to accomplish by turning the engine on and then off quickly multiple times. Is this similar to balancing your rims? Almost like knowing where the weights have to go to keep them balanced and prevent vibration? Thanks.
I think I remember what I was doing there, if I remember right it was that the motor usually stops on the #1 TDC and the clutch adjust will be on the bottom at that point. I think it was out of time there from the last time I changed the clutch about 8 years before and it didn't like to stop at that point and I always had to turn the motor by hand to get to the adjustment, so this time I was trying to get it to where it likes to stop so the clutch adjust will usually be at the bottom.
Jl mmm
Do you know what kind of clutch would go in a 18 inch spicer?
Where can I get the tool to align the clutch kit?
use long stud dowels next time to install the clutch instead of using flashlight to find holes and trying to rotated
That is correct
great job
Thanks for watching Eric.
How’s the Harbor Freight impact holding up still?
Fine so far.
There's an unusual amount of slop in that throw out bearing, if that was mine i would spend the $40 and put a new one on
Creo sea adecuado trabar pernos y torquear adecuadamente los 6 pernos.
Oops, did I see some "red paint" dripping off your finger(s) there? Not many jobs where the mechanic doesn't suffer a little "body damage" during the process. I hope it was only skin deep. This is quite enlightening. Have you done a clutch on this truck (or another heavy truck) before ?
I don't remember springing a leak I may have. This is my 3rd clutch on this truck, 15 years ago, 8 years ago and now. I did one on another truck before I started videos so that makes 4.
Have you been doing any landscaping jobs this spring or has trucking & the house kept you busy?
I can't get time off to work on the truck much less something else. The mill is firing up the furnaces to start making their own slabs again, and my dispatcher is forcing us to run everyday and laying guilt trips on us if we don't want Saturdays and Sundays also because they think we might loose our spot in the mill when they reopen full blast if we don't kiss their @$$. The spot I got now is ten times more labor and half the average daily earnings as the spot I had before the big lay off 3 years ago. I'm only putting up with this hoping to have my old spot back.
I would not play that game if I did not need to, their job is to keep things moving for the lowest price. If you guys all got together you could easily get more money since trucking rates have gone up since the E log invasion happened. The companies are making alot more money and the drivers are seeing none of it.
We as a kind of small company can't fight with US Steel. We only have 2 drivers in there now since the 3rd driver died last September. The other local company actually next door to us, has about 10 or more in there with us and a couple other locals as well. I was making $800 to $1800 a week for about 30 to 45 hrs. all weekends and major holidays off. 90% no tarp 3 to 7 quick turn arounds a day. That's what I'm holding out for. Then we'll have 2 or 3 more drivers behind me to take out the garbage instead of me all the time. As it is now, we can't hire anyone to put up with this crap yet until it gets moving good again. They've been telling me 2 more weeks well I asked again the other day and heard they added another 2 weeks.
They will tell you anything to keep you in the game, they consider drivers totally replaceable yet they wonder why they spend so much on repairs, towing & down time when they put a clown behind the wheel!
could I get the serial number for that part that youre installing? please?
Good job..but can you tell me why you change all those stuff
I did the clutch job because the rear main seal was leaking and the clutch needs to come down to change that seal. It was getting close to time to change the clutch anyway so why not put in a new one while it is down. Thanks for watching.
Lots of reasons , rear maim seal, pilot bearing, misuse of gear shifting can wear the teeth , overall wear and tear that accounts for replacement anyhow,.
We're doing one of our tracks today a full Crack going halfway through the bell housing and heavy hauling machines finally broke up some shit like the seal and gaskets need replaced. Wasn't noticed at first until the driver saw oil slung everywhere underneath the cab and still drove a cat excavator 300 miles probably shifted willy nilly and damage was done. Not to mention broke a coolant line pulling the 800lb transmission..
Oh what fun
No soltó los calzoz d madera x que el volante motriz no está rectificado
Why do you prefer a one piece clutch brake?
That's what came with the kit. If you know how to use a clutch brake correctly it will last the life of the clutch.
Clutch brake needs grease applied before you install it on the input shaft. You only need to grease 1 fitting on the release bearing.
You don’t grease the clutch break because then it won’t work
Yes sir you do. 29 year Eaton guy and ASE Master Tech.
Need to resurface flywheel. Warranty is no good if you don’t.
I want this clutch bearing
How is this iatco clutch holding up?
Clutch is fine, driving over gross local everyday clutching hundreds of times a day.
@@57bagre Great... How does clutch perform in comparison with the 6 paddle, 9 spring ones?
I have most urgency of this bearing
I am Vietnamese , I want to know the clutch made in usa , because china rebuilt it. Do you help me about it ? Do you have a account in facebook?
Yes I have FB account. I don't know how I can help but you can ask anything.
Can you give me your account on facebook? Thank you so much.
Fit a LIPE and you won't have all those problems.