Thanks for this, much appreciated ! The following is not meant as criticism, just another coin in the box :-) I usually put additional copper sealing rings under the M8 bolts as well. If the mating surface for these on the cylinder head is not flat enough, leaks may develop (don't ask me how I know). In your example, the larger M10 ones should be ok because of the a surface covered by the flat washers, as well as the additional torque applied. I prefer the original M10 sealing washers. These seal the outline of the bolts as well. Working with fluids, it's better to be safe than sorry. The give aways are of course checking the threads, and any warps of the cylinder / head before tightening. Knowing you, that has no doubt been covered in one of your other video's..
Hi Frank I've never had any water leaking problems using the aftermarket stainless steel bolts, but if I did have a problem I would use a dowty washer to cure the issue because as you know, they seal both internal and external areas 👍
Early 1972 models would misfire and explode crankcase fuel air mixture occasionally, bend the crank seal, and suck transmission oil into one of the cylinders. I rebuilt one of these on warranty and Suzuki came out with a strengthened seal to prevent the failure.
I have all the parts in my shed to build an early japanese home market only split head GT750 engine, both cyl heads all gaskets req and the longer headbolts...
Many thanks for the Videos they are a joy to watch. Would you happen to know where I might get a quote for a full restoration of my GT500 thanks again.
Good to finally see the lid on that engine. Looks sweet! The sound dropped out when you said where you got the head nuts and washers from, where was it? Thanks, and keep up the good work
The studs that the head bolts screw down onto are of course well greased before the cylinder block goes over them this is for 2 reasons, 1 to protect against corrosion and 2 to allow easy installation of the head bolts !
I always thought there was a sequence for the tightening down of cylinder and cylinder head bolts, to avoid warping. But, you did not mention this. My Brother and me did a head strip on a GT750 and got everything right, or so it seemed. Until we got the engine up and running, and blow me. water was seeping out of the head somewhere. We took it to an engineer, and he said, run it for a few minutes with no water in, then torque down the head again, and hey presto, no leaks.
I DO mention the torque sequence because it's important, listen to the video again ! There is also another short video that shows why you should re torque a second time after it's had a heat cycle !!!!
Great instructional. I feel more confident just watching this being done, and the easy way you go about your business. Thanks so much!
👍
Thanks for this, much appreciated ! The following is not meant as criticism, just another coin in the box :-) I usually put additional copper sealing rings under the M8 bolts as well. If the mating surface for these on the cylinder head is not flat enough, leaks may develop (don't ask me how I know). In your example, the larger M10 ones should be ok because of the a surface covered by the flat washers, as well as the additional torque applied. I prefer the original M10 sealing washers. These seal the outline of the bolts as well. Working with fluids, it's better to be safe than sorry. The give aways are of course checking the threads, and any warps of the cylinder / head before tightening. Knowing you, that has no doubt been covered in one of your other video's..
Hi Frank
I've never had any water leaking problems using the aftermarket stainless steel bolts, but if I did have a problem I would use a dowty washer to cure the issue because as you know, they seal both internal and external areas 👍
Early 1972 models would misfire and explode crankcase fuel air mixture occasionally, bend the crank seal, and suck transmission oil into one of the cylinders. I rebuilt one of these on warranty and Suzuki came out with a strengthened seal to prevent the failure.
👍
I have all the parts in my shed to build an early japanese home market only split head GT750 engine, both cyl heads all gaskets req and the longer headbolts...
Many thanks for the Videos they are a joy to watch. Would you happen to know where I might get a quote for a full restoration of my GT500 thanks again.
I'm not sure Joe, I would probably ask on the Facebook page
Good to finally see the lid on that engine. Looks sweet! The sound dropped out when you said where you got the head nuts and washers from, where was it?
Thanks, and keep up the good work
Hi Dave
The head bolts come from
Classicbikefasteners.co.uk
I'm a bit surprised the head bolts/studs don't call for some Silicone or Antiseize compound on the threads to get a more accurate torque.
The studs that the head bolts screw down onto are of course well greased before the cylinder block goes over them this is for 2 reasons, 1 to protect against corrosion and 2 to allow easy installation of the head bolts !
Another Gem
Thanks Dave
I always thought there was a sequence for the tightening down of cylinder and
cylinder head bolts, to avoid warping. But, you did not mention this. My Brother
and me did a head strip on a GT750 and got everything right, or so it seemed.
Until we got the engine up and running, and blow me. water was seeping out
of the head somewhere. We took it to an engineer, and he said, run it for a few
minutes with no water in, then torque down the head again, and hey presto, no
leaks.
I DO mention the torque sequence because it's important, listen to the video again !
There is also another short video that shows why you should re torque a second time after it's had a heat cycle !!!!
Why did these bikes get a bad name back in the day was head casket
I'm not sure