My friend had this problem, he never changed his engine air filter and it was packed with solid crud. I changed his engine air filter, cleaned his maf sensor, cleaned his throttle body, improved the situation a little. Then we found out his fuel pump was bad, replaced fuel pump, ran a bunch of fuel system cleaner, and now his car runs like brand new.
I had experienced a bad fuel pump too after my car sat alone for 6 months. My car is a 99 corolla so it definitely needed new spark plugs after 30000 miles, but I'm still experiencing the issue. I currently need to replace my evap canister, but I will be checking the catalytic converter like you said. Thanks for this amazing informative list of possibilities!
@gorkman5697 Hey there, I did actually! So, for me it did turn out to be the fuel pump. All my attempts prior were, I changed the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, changed the spark plugs, and after all that, I still had issues until I changed the fuel pump. Turns out, my pump I bought 2 years ago was aftermarket, so it went bad real quick, I didn't think it would but it did. So I got a Denso OEM fuel pump from autozone about 30 bucks more, but I hope it's worth it. We'll see how long it lasts. Afterwards I changed me O2 sensors but I don't know if that truly needed changing. I had a weird process of getting both Oxygen sensors before and after my fuel pump change because I got desperate and needed my car quick, ended up breaking one of them so I def needed to replace them as a result. But, my check engine light did go away when I got the new fuel pump with a downstream O2 replacement, engine light came back and then went away after I changed the upstream O2 sensor I broke. Highly likely I didn't need the O2 sensors. But if it persists and your codes read P0130 and P0133, those only confirmed to me that I definitely broke my O2 sensor, so definitely change your fuel pump AND fuel filter together. That should help a lot.
You should be able to attempt cleaning your IAC valve and Throttle body before truly getting a new part because if those are really dirty, you know they need cleaning. Also for me I made sure I had no vacuum leaks, I changed my PCV valve which was only like 6 bucks. But overall definitely fuel pump and fuel filter should help if you have literally no vacuum leaks in your hood. Knowing the codes that pop up help a lot with your investigations.
@gorkman5697 Check all your vacuum lines, look for cracks at the tips or poor sealing from the clips, and any broken or cracking rubber tubes could be causing issues too because the car measures the Air/Fuel ratio is off so it automatically adjusts, but once it reaches max adjustment capacity, that's when your codes pop up and your issue gets worse as your car tries to supply more or less fuel in response to your poor air flow or poor fuel flow.
I have this issue with a stick shift Chevy truck. When my gas level is Below half mark it’ll lose power and even stall. I use it out on the field and any bump will disturb the gas flow I believe and will cause it to stall or I have to restart the truck to start driving again. It’s really annoying when you have to restart your truck 5 times for a 10 minute drive. I’ll be sending it to the mechanic soon. Thank you so much!
The moral of the story, avoid dem hills as much as possible. Reminds me of a vw beetle I owned. My wife tried passing out going up a hill. There was more compression in a balloon 🎈. Different story downhill. Those were the days my friend.
wow great help really appreciate you. My car has the problem and I change the ATF oil often and it is the same may it is one these problems that is yet to be fixed.
Would be a clogged catalytic converter be the best diagnose for a diesel SUV to struggle moving uphill? My SUV won't move when on a uphill situation coming from a full stop. Also i've noticed that black smoke comes out of my exhaust on a larger amount that the usual. However if i try to climb an uphill road on reverse it seems to be running normally. Would very much appreciate a response as i have been going and asking for solutions from other mechanics and its quite hard to tell what factor should be prioritized to be checked.
Mine will drive fine on a fairly flat highway. Speed limit is 70. In about 5 miles engine still running but complete power loss in about 2 minutes. Took it to 2 different shops and neither mechanic could fix it so it has been sitting since 2017.
@@gullydisciple well, since I have no idea what that is I have to hope 2 professional mechanics know about that whom diagnosed my car. And I can't afford to take it to another mechanic that may not know what's causing the problems so I'm stuck with a bum car.
I have a toyota iq 1l, new spark olugs, new air filter, oil and oil filter, but the car struggles to accelerate from stand still and steep roads but once it gets to around 15 mph it picks up normally, no other issues at all. Any ideas what could be the cause?
I have a 1995 Sunfire (2.2 engine, 3 spd automatic). The transmission was serviced about a year ago, that used to eat up hills and recently, when going through a really steep climb, it lost power and it was really a struggle. I recently measured vacuum at idle and it read 19 Hg-In, don't know if this is to low. I have also noticed that it turns the Check Engine lamp after I am done with a steep climb and start going down hill with no foot on the gas. I can't read the code because is an OBD 1.5 and there are no scanners that can read it. One thing it does when the CE sets in is thst it turns on the cooling fan until I turn off the car. The CE light goes off when the car is turned off. Not knowing what code it sets is preventing me to troubleshoot further.
I have a 2021 toyota camry 95,000 miles. I've kept up on maintenance and the car just started struggling to accelerate uphill, it runs fine on straight roads no engine light on
what if its only the first grear on zero speed, if it is uphill car shut off and stop!!, if normal street agnle its fine! car is audi a4 2012 TDI CVT...
My Honda feels forced, it will gradually go up in speed if I press the gas slowly but say I need to pick up speed quickly and press down on the gas all the way the rpm will shoot up but the engine won’t accelerate. Any tips on where to start?
I did a valve lapping job on my 1995 maxima because of low compression, I was getting 125-141psi on one bank, min is 143psi. After I did the lapping job, at best I'm getiing 110psi, and if I do a second reading on the same cyl. I get 60psi. Any suggestions please? I used at first 220 grit then I switched to 600 and 1000 grit. Does it matter that my oil pan is off the vehicle? Thanks in advance.
I've notice my car rev when I step on the excelrator to go uphill also the rpm stay on 2000 it doesn't. So most of the time this happens I release off the gas an press again for it to pick speed. Any idea what this issue is?
same here, I'm thinking of ignition coils, fuel injectors, cats, intake leak/knock sensors. Im thinking of getting a loaner from autozone to test fuel pressure, and maybe check heat of cats or taking the o2 sensors out and seeing how it runs, for ignition coil i have no clue.
Bro plzz help hope you reply me soon.. I feel my car loose power after am driving about more than 15mins.. I hesitate like even to overtake a bus which is stop as i need to push all down the gas pedal to overtake its slow.. I was sometime told injectors, sparkplug, map sensor and clogg catalytic convertor as confused as if i follow mechanic it make me spends lots of money
Anybody can suggest? XC90 D5 2008 - sometimes drives like new amazing - sometimes just goes sluggish like having no turbo plus makes hissing noise when taking my foot off pedal. Then I stop turn car off and on again and it drives like magic again.. Dont get it.. anybody? Thanks 🙏
Hi bro, I have an MG M6 2015, when I starts it it will show engine fault, check engine yellow light. While driving power is ok. Nd when I'm not accelerating it will show reduced engine power. Pls advise
What I noticed is: Going up hill or after driving for a long time, I need to press the accelerator a little bit more to get it to shift up. Mind you I'm having no problems with the actual shifting. It responds fine, but when I go up hill, or I'm driving after a long time, I notice I press on the gas and it just kinda doesn't feel like it has power or responding as soon as I'm use to. If I press just a little bit more, it shifts smoothly and fine, but I don't want this to keep being a trend that gets worse. Possibly related: I also notice my engine RPM just stops for a micro second, like it's hesitating. Still shifts just fine, but I was worried about it. I got a reliable mechanic I trust, so I'll bring it to him and he'll check it out and be honest with me. The car only has 106k miles, and I take good care of it.
My 2005 Nissan Sentra just started having problems. It will drive fine for a while, then without warning it just won't accelerate. Last few times I was at a full stop, get ready to take off. Barely moves. I press hard on gas pedal for like 5-10 seconds and maybe sometime it starts moving again, but really chugging until I can get it up to a much higher speed. Higher speeds doesn't seem to be affected. Taking it to a shop tomorrow to check the cat.
A vehicle *down shifts* to supply more power going uphill. This guy in the video and all the other videos I find, NEVER mention bad gasoline can cause this as well.
@@CrybKeeper Post mechanic update: My mechanic cannot find a code indicating something is wrong. It still shifts up, but has less power _sometimes_ which leads him to believe one of my sensors is going out, and that's bad enough to impact the performance of my car, but not bad enough to show on a code scanner. He told me to just drive it until the check engine light goes on, then come back. It's otherwise safe to drive.
I think my car got a serious problem. Once my wife drove it without a radiator cap so engine overheated and went off, i repaired it and the car went back being in good performance until one day i realized that my engine goes off while i was climbing a hill but when i left it for the while it started running again but will stop when i encountered a hill i thought maybe fuel pump my be the problem i changed it twice but the problem still persisting. I have no any more idea what to do because the car isn't overheating but keeps failling on hills, Make: Suzuki Model: 2007 grand vitara Engine:J20A
I noticed the rpms fluctuate as well if i'm going uphill or driving fast. i have a manual transmission and that feels ok. I know it has to do with air, spark or fuel. No check engine light. 2007 Mazda 3 hatchback with 152K miles. A couple years ago it drove amazing. Everything was lined up perfectly. That lasted a day or so and then back to normal. I wish it drove that good all the time. It felt like it gained 60 hp. That happened twice since i owned it. I did spark plugs like 90K miles ago.
Okay I have a kia Sportage hybrid and when I'm going uphill like going to Vegas oh my God it's really slow what can I do what mode should I put it on I only have sport smart eco and snow
Jesus is coming repent and become born again Christian Jesus is the only way to escape from going to hell 🔥 read Revelation in the Holy Bible all the prophecies are being fulfilled this is the end of the world apocalypse
My friend had this problem, he never changed his engine air filter and it was packed with solid crud. I changed his engine air filter, cleaned his maf sensor, cleaned his throttle body, improved the situation a little. Then we found out his fuel pump was bad, replaced fuel pump, ran a bunch of fuel system cleaner, and now his car runs like brand new.
wow ... how much would this cost to take into a mechanic my car is having that problem
@@talaifinamounga4324Try to find a Craigslist mechanic they will do it for cheaper than a shop much cheaper.
I had experienced a bad fuel pump too after my car sat alone for 6 months. My car is a 99 corolla so it definitely needed new spark plugs after 30000 miles, but I'm still experiencing the issue. I currently need to replace my evap canister, but I will be checking the catalytic converter like you said. Thanks for this amazing informative list of possibilities!
@gorkman5697 Hey there, I did actually!
So, for me it did turn out to be the fuel pump.
All my attempts prior were, I changed the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, changed the spark plugs, and after all that, I still had issues until I changed the fuel pump.
Turns out, my pump I bought 2 years ago was aftermarket, so it went bad real quick, I didn't think it would but it did.
So I got a Denso OEM fuel pump from autozone about 30 bucks more, but I hope it's worth it. We'll see how long it lasts.
Afterwards I changed me O2 sensors but I don't know if that truly needed changing. I had a weird process of getting both Oxygen sensors before and after my fuel pump change because I got desperate and needed my car quick, ended up breaking one of them so I def needed to replace them as a result.
But, my check engine light did go away when I got the new fuel pump with a downstream O2 replacement, engine light came back and then went away after I changed the upstream O2 sensor I broke. Highly likely I didn't need the O2 sensors. But if it persists and your codes read P0130 and P0133, those only confirmed to me that I definitely broke my O2 sensor, so definitely change your fuel pump AND fuel filter together. That should help a lot.
You should be able to attempt cleaning your IAC valve and Throttle body before truly getting a new part because if those are really dirty, you know they need cleaning.
Also for me I made sure I had no vacuum leaks, I changed my PCV valve which was only like 6 bucks. But overall definitely fuel pump and fuel filter should help if you have literally no vacuum leaks in your hood.
Knowing the codes that pop up help a lot with your investigations.
@gorkman5697 Check all your vacuum lines, look for cracks at the tips or poor sealing from the clips, and any broken or cracking rubber tubes could be causing issues too because the car measures the Air/Fuel ratio is off so it automatically adjusts, but once it reaches max adjustment capacity, that's when your codes pop up and your issue gets worse as your car tries to supply more or less fuel in response to your poor air flow or poor fuel flow.
I really appreciate this video my car has these symptoms
I have this issue with a stick shift Chevy truck. When my gas level is Below half mark it’ll lose power and even stall. I use it out on the field and any bump will disturb the gas flow I believe and will cause it to stall or I have to restart the truck to start driving again. It’s really annoying when you have to restart your truck 5 times for a 10 minute drive. I’ll be sending it to the mechanic soon. Thank you so much!
Try fuel filter
The moral of the story, avoid dem hills as much as possible. Reminds me of a vw beetle I owned. My wife tried passing out going up a hill. There was more compression in a balloon 🎈. Different story downhill. Those were the days my friend.
wow great help really appreciate you. My car has the problem and I change the ATF oil often and it is the same may it is one these problems that is yet to be fixed.
Would be a clogged catalytic converter be the best diagnose for a diesel SUV to struggle moving uphill? My SUV won't move when on a uphill situation coming from a full stop. Also i've noticed that black smoke comes out of my exhaust on a larger amount that the usual. However if i try to climb an uphill road on reverse it seems to be running normally. Would very much appreciate a response as i have been going and asking for solutions from other mechanics and its quite hard to tell what factor should be prioritized to be checked.
I have the same problem, as u just said but my mechanic changed the valve body and everything was fine
Mine will drive fine on a fairly flat highway. Speed limit is 70. In about 5 miles engine still running but complete power loss in about 2 minutes. Took it to 2 different shops and neither mechanic could fix it so it has been sitting since 2017.
Did you check your ECM ?
@@gullydisciple well, since I have no idea what that is I have to hope 2 professional mechanics know about that whom diagnosed my car. And I can't afford to take it to another mechanic that may not know what's causing the problems so I'm stuck with a bum car.
clear and concise, unlike much of yt haha. ty.
Thanks dude, this was a big help
I have a toyota iq 1l, new spark olugs, new air filter, oil and oil filter, but the car struggles to accelerate from stand still and steep roads but once it gets to around 15 mph it picks up normally, no other issues at all. Any ideas what could be the cause?
Map sensor
Hi I too have the same problem, did you manage to find the issue with your car?
I have a 1995 Sunfire (2.2 engine, 3 spd automatic). The transmission was serviced about a year ago, that used to eat up hills and recently, when going through a really steep climb, it lost power and it was really a struggle. I recently measured vacuum at idle and it read 19 Hg-In, don't know if this is to low. I have also noticed that it turns the Check Engine lamp after I am done with a steep climb and start going down hill with no foot on the gas. I can't read the code because is an OBD 1.5 and there are no scanners that can read it. One thing it does when the CE sets in is thst it turns on the cooling fan until I turn off the car. The CE light goes off when the car is turned off. Not knowing what code it sets is preventing me to troubleshoot further.
I have a 2021 toyota camry 95,000 miles. I've kept up on maintenance and the car just started struggling to accelerate uphill, it runs fine on straight roads no engine light on
My car runs good on the flat but as it takes on a hill it starts to frown. It's a toyota fielder 2000 1nz engine. What cud be the problem
My Hyundai i10 1.1 gls has issues when going uphill, what can do to fix this? Thank you for the video
Weak engine
@@yod2189unhelpful
I have a Hyundai i20 1.1 glide. It struggles going uphill too.
@@imhoteptheunsullied3000what was the problem brother?
what if its only the first grear on zero speed, if it is uphill car shut off and stop!!, if normal street agnle its fine! car is audi a4 2012 TDI CVT...
My Honda feels forced, it will gradually go up in speed if I press the gas slowly but say I need to pick up speed quickly and press down on the gas all the way the rpm will shoot up but the engine won’t accelerate. Any tips on where to start?
My car does the same, it's hyunda accent 2016 model, I took in for service but still 💔💔💔please assist...
Sounds like transmission issues
find out the issue?
@@ke161co He needs to take it to the transmission shop
@@LA_Commander ur not a mechanic
I did a valve lapping job on my 1995 maxima because of low compression, I was getting 125-141psi on one bank, min is 143psi. After I did the lapping job, at best I'm getiing 110psi, and if I do a second reading on the same cyl. I get 60psi. Any suggestions please? I used at first 220 grit then I switched to 600 and 1000 grit. Does it matter that my oil pan is off the vehicle? Thanks in advance.
Hi I have a toyota hiace 2014 we do all fuel test and scanner test but my vehicle struggle up hills the engine boiling and we can't fine the problem
i have a 2007 yukkon that here and there will spike in 3rd gear. and loses lots of power but only when its really warmed/hot. any suggestions
I've got this problem with my santafe 2017 2.0 turbo with only 38k what should I check first?
I've notice my car rev when I step on the excelrator to go uphill also the rpm stay on 2000 it doesn't. So most of the time this happens I release off the gas an press again for it to pick speed. Any idea what this issue is?
Did you find out what was the problem?
same here, I'm thinking of ignition coils, fuel injectors, cats, intake leak/knock sensors. Im thinking of getting a loaner from autozone to test fuel pressure, and maybe check heat of cats or taking the o2 sensors out and seeing how it runs, for ignition coil i have no clue.
Could it also be we need to use the the gears correctly
I have a Toyota carolla ae110 when put in reverse going up hill some times engine stalls its automatic transmission?
having the same issue with my 03 dodge Dakota. Did you ever figure out the problem?
I having the same issue with a toyota hiace when it going up hills engine boiling down sometime paddle to floor and nun
I have experience while going uphill and can't get over so I return backward but brake doesn't work what is the problem?
Bro plzz help hope you reply me soon.. I feel my car loose power after am driving about more than 15mins.. I hesitate like even to overtake a bus which is stop as i need to push all down the gas pedal to overtake its slow.. I was sometime told injectors, sparkplug, map sensor and clogg catalytic convertor as confused as if i follow mechanic it make me spends lots of money
Anybody can suggest? XC90 D5 2008 - sometimes drives like new amazing - sometimes just goes sluggish like having no turbo plus makes hissing noise when taking my foot off pedal. Then I stop turn car off and on again and it drives like magic again.. Dont get it.. anybody? Thanks 🙏
Hi bro,
I have an MG M6 2015, when I starts it it will show engine fault, check engine yellow light. While driving power is ok. Nd when I'm not accelerating it will show reduced engine power. Pls advise
What I noticed is: Going up hill or after driving for a long time, I need to press the accelerator a little bit more to get it to shift up. Mind you I'm having no problems with the actual shifting. It responds fine, but when I go up hill, or I'm driving after a long time, I notice I press on the gas and it just kinda doesn't feel like it has power or responding as soon as I'm use to. If I press just a little bit more, it shifts smoothly and fine, but I don't want this to keep being a trend that gets worse.
Possibly related: I also notice my engine RPM just stops for a micro second, like it's hesitating. Still shifts just fine, but I was worried about it.
I got a reliable mechanic I trust, so I'll bring it to him and he'll check it out and be honest with me. The car only has 106k miles, and I take good care of it.
My 2005 Nissan Sentra just started having problems. It will drive fine for a while, then without warning it just won't accelerate. Last few times I was at a full stop, get ready to take off. Barely moves. I press hard on gas pedal for like 5-10 seconds and maybe sometime it starts moving again, but really chugging until I can get it up to a much higher speed. Higher speeds doesn't seem to be affected. Taking it to a shop tomorrow to check the cat.
A vehicle *down shifts* to supply more power going uphill. This guy in the video and all the other videos I find, NEVER mention bad gasoline can cause this as well.
@@CrybKeeper Post mechanic update:
My mechanic cannot find a code indicating something is wrong. It still shifts up, but has less power _sometimes_ which leads him to believe one of my sensors is going out, and that's bad enough to impact the performance of my car, but not bad enough to show on a code scanner.
He told me to just drive it until the check engine light goes on, then come back. It's otherwise safe to drive.
Hello, my truck struggled up the hill in drive and then when my guys reversed, it went up the hill with full power. Any thoughts on this?
Transmission issue. Try replacing the valve body gaskets as well as new fluid and filter.
i have this in my 2004 Toyota sequoia and the vsc light and engine light come on as its happening
Can a missing oxygen sensor cause it to
What abkut dirty fuel injectors
Clogged or dirty fuel injector can also cause it.
I have a 2008 corsa and i have this problem. The engine keeps losing power on a hill
I think my car got a serious problem. Once my wife drove it without a radiator cap so engine overheated and went off, i repaired it and the car went back being in good performance until one day i realized that my engine goes off while i was climbing a hill but when i left it for the while it started running again but will stop when i encountered a hill i thought maybe fuel pump my be the problem i changed it twice but the problem still persisting. I have no any more idea what to do because the car isn't overheating but keeps failling on hills,
Make: Suzuki
Model: 2007 grand vitara
Engine:J20A
My pilot 40k miles fluctuate its pickup ups and down. i see rom ups and down and so whole car
My grand marquis makes aa sound like chains hitting each other but only going up hill ,why
Loose timing chains
Timing chain - internal, inside front of engine. Big job to change out.
thanks for explanations
Does the engine light turn on for all of these issues?
I noticed the rpms fluctuate as well if i'm going uphill or driving fast. i have a manual transmission and that feels ok. I know it has to do with air, spark or fuel. No check engine light. 2007 Mazda 3 hatchback with 152K miles.
A couple years ago it drove amazing. Everything was lined up perfectly. That lasted a day or so and then back to normal. I wish it drove that good all the time. It felt like it gained 60 hp. That happened twice since i owned it. I did spark plugs like 90K miles ago.
Okay I have a kia Sportage hybrid and when I'm going uphill like going to Vegas oh my God it's really slow what can I do what mode should I put it on I only have sport smart eco and snow
What if you car is a stick shift
Ditch the cat
Kasaca!!!
Jesus is coming repent and become born again Christian Jesus is the only way to escape from going to hell 🔥 read Revelation in the Holy Bible all the prophecies are being fulfilled this is the end of the world apocalypse
Amen!!!
Amen
AMEN !
Keep your religion out of unrelated topics
@@Tomski000111 no 🤓
I blame e85
First sign is your engine is too small