I just got my a1. Definitely look around for print settings, and learn how to mess with supports (im brand new). Learning supports seems the hardest to figure out. Im not starting to be less afraid of cutting and printing in multiple pieces.
@@eannane8712 Yeah, mine now has 20 hours of runtime and the only failed prints were filament settings and greasy print-bed. But overall it is pretty much plug and play for the start, which is amazing.
i'm always amazed that 0,4 mm nozzles achieve this level of detail - but switching to 0,2 mm and printing at 0,06 mm layer height shifts it up a notch, you should try that
@@FigureFeedback The detail on the 0.2 nozzle with the right settings approaches the quality of a 4k resin printer. I'll be happy to share my profile settings if interested.
@@legacyoftheancientsC64cim interested in using an elegoo Neptune 4 and would love to print miniatures but I can't get the settings right and they turn out incomplete or utter 💩
So, I know it is counterintuitive because there are flat planes, but I really recommend printing things like the tiles at a 45 degree angle. The side detail will reproduce the model details far better. You can really tell on like cobblestones, printed flat and normal you get visible stairstepping on every stone face, but if you print it at an angle with a little bit of supports most of those little stones or sconces or bones or whatever will turn out a lot nicer for just a little bit more filament and time. Hit it with some primer and you can get really impressive results with little effort.
@@joshbracken5450 depends in what you compete - speed? SLA sees no land against FDM, FDM is way faster, almost no post processing needed, no washing, no curing - most models can be just plucked from the print bed and are good to go quality wise, 0.2 mm nozzle on my Bambu Lab P1 printer gives me similar results to an old Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
@@suit1337 Yeah but as for speed, when you print in resin, you're not printing a single mini. If you're not cramming the build plate absolutely full, you're doing it wrong. I print resin miniatures in about two hours and I don't think there are a lot of FDM machines out there that can even come close to the quality of resin in that amount of time, not even the Bambu Lab machines. And meanwhile, the resin machine is printing an entire plate. Also, with FDM, your top layers always end up with that typicical FDM texture, they're never nearly as smooth as a resin print, even at .2mm.
@suit1337 if it's a 1 to 1 race. You could print off 100 minis at have the same print speed as 1 on a resin. Fdm the more models the longer and longer it takes. I hope we can get to the point of fdm getting close to resin. I love my fdm for most stuff but not minis.
I bought an X1C with AMS months after it was released and I absolutely love this printer. My first one was an Ender 3. I am getting my second printer (this A1 with AMS) tomorrow and I'm really excited. Looking forward to having a dedicated printer for minis and terrain.
I really like your cadence and the video overall! I'm a noob 3d printer enthusiast and been searching around for some content creators, and very glad I came across your video.
The 0.2mm nozzle will really make you happy. I'm using one for ho scale rail stuff on an A1 Mini with excellent results. Have fun! Now to buy either an A1 or a P1S. I'm leaning towards the A1 just for the easy nozzle swaps. Even my Ratrig VMinion doesn't do really small stuff quite as well as the A1 Mini, and the VMinion is one heck of a small format printer.
I started printing minis in 2018 with my first printer (old cartesian with A4988 drivers) using 0.15 layer and got very nice results. Later bougth a resin printer and its like inyection Quality. But FDM still get excellent results, and with fasters printers like bambú or K1 you finish very fast and almost resin quality.
I need to switch to more FDM minis and terrain. I’ve got a Saturn 2 but after my daughter was born and moving, I haven’t used it at all. But I’ve been using my P1S like crazy. It’s just that time. Saturn two can do so many more at once, but the safety of FDM. Need more practice with it though. Great video and got me to print more minis.
I'm using mine too, it's a breeze to use, great printer, lives up to the hype for sure. After bad experiences with Flashforge and Artillery, I would recommend anyone to go for it and never look back.
haha I was surprised when I was looking into buying a 3d Printer and came across this video and was like "I recognize this dude!" I've been subbed to your personal channel forever from your Warframe videos lol
Your support settings would interest me. I could not really remove the default tree supports from printed miniature parts (using the A1 mini with standard 0,4 nozzle) and now I am not really sure where to start. Without supports the prints are beautiful.
Man, I absolute LOVE seeing what newer FDM printer can produce and how easy they make it look! I've been using FDM printers for a decade now and let me tell you, getting this kind of quality on older machines is possible, but VERY involved. You needed to put a lot of work into getting the machine properly tuned and getting every setting right. These machine automate that pretty much for you. I've been keeping an eye on this particular machine (no AMS - I paint everything anyway). I've also backed those DeathX tiles and I'm looking to print them, but my older machines are sloooooooow... Have you tried a .2mm nozzle? My experiences with them are... Not optimal. They add a lot of extra time to the print job (for only a marginal boost in detail quality) and I find they clog way too often and way too easily for my taste. What's your experience with that?
Please do a follow-up with the 0.2 nozzle. Would love to see some close-up side by side comparisons. Ive printed a few simple minis at 0.08 on my P1S and was really amazed at the quality level.
They look awesome honestly! Going to do Resin, but I have pet birds. So, that is a no go until I have proper booth in basement with ventilation. No doubt, Resin blows away filament. Too bad Resin will kill you if not ventilated right. LOL.
I had an old Ender which needed upgrading or replacement, and I researched everything, including resin. It turns out that resin would cost me four to six times as much money in materials, in addition to all the extra processing, compared to PLA, PETG etc. So I ordered an A1 this summer. Only today I finally got an 0.2mm hotend, because it sucks to get anything in my country. But now I'm ready for anything :) I went for a regular A1 without the AMS, because 100% of my prints will be painted. It could be a nice convenience to have 4 spools available for long prints without having to splice, but it's also very wasteful if used as a colour change mechanism. So it's not necessary for me. I've been printing all sorts of utility stuff so far with PLA and PETG, including high-speed variants, and for certain types of terrain the .4mm hotend included has been fine (rocks, walls), and for boxes and hangers I've been using a .8mm hotend. Now I'm considering printing parts to create an enclosure with a HEPA filter so I could potentially use ABS too :P
@@Curious_Skeptic Yes, PETG seems a bit stronger by default, although depending on what and how you print, PLA can hold quite a lot of weight for certain applications. There are many guides on making hooks and tools strong. First prints should be a scraper handle and poop bucket if you get an A! ;)
Très bonne vidéo!le système AMS sur le haut de l'imprimante ne risqueas de créer une pression trop forte avec le temps avec 4 bobines cela fait plus de4kg.
I was all set to order the flashforge 5m after watching some of your recent videos, but also got my eye on this printer. Just wondering if you would recommend one over the other please? Looking for quality, reliability and easy of use.
I did get the Flashforge 5m, and I have not been disappointed at all, and will be adding a 3rd party multi colors option. This printer looks great also. I do like the 5m enclosure options though. I printed 1 mini and it turned out great. Would love to see these new gen printers using a .2mm nozzel
That's a tough one. The 5M is a fantastic deal at $299. The A1 is $100 more. I've had the 5M much longer and it has produced good prints the majority of the time. It has been reliable for me. If you think you'll benefit from a larger printing area and the option to do multicolor prints, the A1 would serve you better. I can't speak on the A1's reliability just yet, but it has produced some great results so far.
@Figure Feedback Jeremy, thank you so much for the detailed reviews. I wanted to ask if you think filament printers are suitable for printing action figures (parts to put together)? I am mostly concerned about joints and how smooth they will move. P.s. dont want to work with the resin due to material toxicity
Yes, they are. There's a project called Lucky 13 that's a great example of this. These have great articulation that are more expressive than most things you find in stores. Here's a link to it. www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure
@FigureFeedback, thank you so much for the reply and the link. Designing more articulated and accurate version of something like batman is mostly the reason i want to get a 3d printer. Very happy that things like that are getting more accessible
I have a resin printer and it is soooo difficult to deal with in terms of clean up!! My goodness, I really underestimated how many paper towels is needed just for one figure.
Seeing these results makes me so excited for the day my A1 gets delivered. Can't wait to get into 3D-printing!
I just got my a1.
Definitely look around for print settings, and learn how to mess with supports (im brand new).
Learning supports seems the hardest to figure out.
Im not starting to be less afraid of cutting and printing in multiple pieces.
@@eannane8712 Yeah, mine now has 20 hours of runtime and the only failed prints were filament settings and greasy print-bed.
But overall it is pretty much plug and play for the start, which is amazing.
i'm always amazed that 0,4 mm nozzles achieve this level of detail - but switching to 0,2 mm and printing at 0,06 mm layer height shifts it up a notch, you should try that
I have a 0.2 nozzle on the way. I'll make a follow-up video about it.
@@FigureFeedback The detail on the 0.2 nozzle with the right settings approaches the quality of a 4k resin printer. I'll be happy to share my profile settings if interested.
@@legacyoftheancientsC64cim interested in using an elegoo Neptune 4 and would love to print miniatures but I can't get the settings right and they turn out incomplete or utter 💩
@@FigureFeedback thanks
@@legacyoftheancientsC64c hello can you share your profile pls ? :D
Thanks for the review! Made me think about a 3d printer again.
Patiently waiting in line for my printer to be shipped. Thanks for the video
So, I know it is counterintuitive because there are flat planes, but I really recommend printing things like the tiles at a 45 degree angle. The side detail will reproduce the model details far better. You can really tell on like cobblestones, printed flat and normal you get visible stairstepping on every stone face, but if you print it at an angle with a little bit of supports most of those little stones or sconces or bones or whatever will turn out a lot nicer for just a little bit more filament and time. Hit it with some primer and you can get really impressive results with little effort.
That's interesting. I'll give this a try.
Great video. Very thoughtful and well organized. Appreciate the effort it took to put this together. Have a great Labor Day weekend.
Would love to see how those miniatures turn up like after painting. And especially ones from 0.2 nozzle.
That would be good for a follow-up video.
Amazing what FDM can do now a days without much fuss! Great video, keep em coming.
For sure!
I have an A1-Mini with a .2 nozzle, use FDG custom profiles, and Sunlu Meta pla. I get near resin quality on minis
Are you using their Cura profiles?
I think he is referring to the "Fat Dragon Games" Bambu Studio profiles.
@@joshbracken5450 depends in what you compete - speed? SLA sees no land against FDM, FDM is way faster, almost no post processing needed, no washing, no curing - most models can be just plucked from the print bed and are good to go
quality wise, 0.2 mm nozzle on my Bambu Lab P1 printer gives me similar results to an old Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
@@suit1337 Yeah but as for speed, when you print in resin, you're not printing a single mini. If you're not cramming the build plate absolutely full, you're doing it wrong. I print resin miniatures in about two hours and I don't think there are a lot of FDM machines out there that can even come close to the quality of resin in that amount of time, not even the Bambu Lab machines. And meanwhile, the resin machine is printing an entire plate.
Also, with FDM, your top layers always end up with that typicical FDM texture, they're never nearly as smooth as a resin print, even at .2mm.
@suit1337 if it's a 1 to 1 race. You could print off 100 minis at have the same print speed as 1 on a resin. Fdm the more models the longer and longer it takes.
I hope we can get to the point of fdm getting close to resin. I love my fdm for most stuff but not minis.
I bought an X1C with AMS months after it was released and I absolutely love this printer. My first one was an Ender 3. I am getting my second printer (this A1 with AMS) tomorrow and I'm really excited. Looking forward to having a dedicated printer for minis and terrain.
I really like your cadence and the video overall! I'm a noob 3d printer enthusiast and been searching around for some content creators, and very glad I came across your video.
The 0.2mm nozzle will really make you happy. I'm using one for ho scale rail stuff on an A1 Mini with excellent results. Have fun! Now to buy either an A1 or a P1S. I'm leaning towards the A1 just for the easy nozzle swaps. Even my Ratrig VMinion doesn't do really small stuff quite as well as the A1 Mini, and the VMinion is one heck of a small format printer.
I started printing minis in 2018 with my first printer (old cartesian with A4988 drivers) using 0.15 layer and got very nice results. Later bougth a resin printer and its like inyection Quality. But FDM still get excellent results, and with fasters printers like bambú or K1 you finish very fast and almost resin quality.
I need to switch to more FDM minis and terrain. I’ve got a Saturn 2 but after my daughter was born and moving, I haven’t used it at all. But I’ve been using my P1S like crazy. It’s just that time. Saturn two can do so many more at once, but the safety of FDM. Need more practice with it though.
Great video and got me to print more minis.
I’m impressed! Great video too.😊
I'm using mine too, it's a breeze to use, great printer, lives up to the hype for sure. After bad experiences with Flashforge and Artillery, I would recommend anyone to go for it and never look back.
haha I was surprised when I was looking into buying a 3d Printer and came across this video and was like "I recognize this dude!" I've been subbed to your personal channel forever from your Warframe videos lol
Wow, you've been around for A WHILE!
Loving mine. I moved the AMS to my wall though. The top mount made me nervous.
It makes me a little nervous too. The mount has been solid so far, but I'm going to explore other options as well.
Your support settings would interest me. I could not really remove the default tree supports from printed miniature parts (using the A1 mini with standard 0,4 nozzle) and now I am not really sure where to start. Without supports the prints are beautiful.
Man, quality of environment figures is insane
That house looks phenomenal 🤯
I've always printed terrain on my FDM printer and have been very satisfied. I'm not quite sold on the mini's. I think I'll stick with resin for now
Man, I absolute LOVE seeing what newer FDM printer can produce and how easy they make it look! I've been using FDM printers for a decade now and let me tell you, getting this kind of quality on older machines is possible, but VERY involved. You needed to put a lot of work into getting the machine properly tuned and getting every setting right. These machine automate that pretty much for you. I've been keeping an eye on this particular machine (no AMS - I paint everything anyway). I've also backed those DeathX tiles and I'm looking to print them, but my older machines are sloooooooow...
Have you tried a .2mm nozzle? My experiences with them are... Not optimal. They add a lot of extra time to the print job (for only a marginal boost in detail quality) and I find they clog way too often and way too easily for my taste. What's your experience with that?
I haven't tried the 0.2 nozzle yet. I have one on the way and I'm going to do a follow-up video about my experience with it.
Please do a follow-up with the 0.2 nozzle. Would love to see some close-up side by side comparisons. Ive printed a few simple minis at 0.08 on my P1S and was really amazed at the quality level.
I will. I'm printing with it as I type this.
This is all the default textured build plate? Do you ever reach for smooth build plate?
Looking forward to the smaller nosil prints video
They look awesome honestly! Going to do Resin, but I have pet birds. So, that is a no go until I have proper booth in basement with ventilation. No doubt, Resin blows away filament. Too bad Resin will kill you if not ventilated right. LOL.
I had an old Ender which needed upgrading or replacement, and I researched everything, including resin. It turns out that resin would cost me four to six times as much money in materials, in addition to all the extra processing, compared to PLA, PETG etc. So I ordered an A1 this summer. Only today I finally got an 0.2mm hotend, because it sucks to get anything in my country. But now I'm ready for anything :)
I went for a regular A1 without the AMS, because 100% of my prints will be painted. It could be a nice convenience to have 4 spools available for long prints without having to splice, but it's also very wasteful if used as a colour change mechanism. So it's not necessary for me. I've been printing all sorts of utility stuff so far with PLA and PETG, including high-speed variants, and for certain types of terrain the .4mm hotend included has been fine (rocks, walls), and for boxes and hangers I've been using a .8mm hotend.
Now I'm considering printing parts to create an enclosure with a HEPA filter so I could potentially use ABS too :P
@unspeakableoaf great info! Petg seems safe enough. Pla for models is my hope as it is low voc. Appreciate the reply.
@@Curious_Skeptic Yes, PETG seems a bit stronger by default, although depending on what and how you print, PLA can hold quite a lot of weight for certain applications. There are many guides on making hooks and tools strong.
First prints should be a scraper handle and poop bucket if you get an A! ;)
Très bonne vidéo!le système AMS sur le haut de l'imprimante ne risqueas de créer une pression trop forte avec le temps avec 4 bobines cela fait plus de4kg.
I am thinking of getting the A1 mini, with the 0.2 nozzle
I was all set to order the flashforge 5m after watching some of your recent videos, but also got my eye on this printer. Just wondering if you would recommend one over the other please? Looking for quality, reliability and easy of use.
I did get the Flashforge 5m, and I have not been disappointed at all, and will be adding a 3rd party multi colors option. This printer looks great also. I do like the 5m enclosure options though. I printed 1 mini and it turned out great. Would love to see these new gen printers using a .2mm nozzel
That's a tough one. The 5M is a fantastic deal at $299. The A1 is $100 more. I've had the 5M much longer and it has produced good prints the majority of the time. It has been reliable for me. If you think you'll benefit from a larger printing area and the option to do multicolor prints, the A1 would serve you better. I can't speak on the A1's reliability just yet, but it has produced some great results so far.
Great content! Got my sub dude. Think I may get myself one!
What settings do you use? I tried printing a small wolf but the teeth were coming out wrong
Resin FTW (but not the smell).
@Figure Feedback Jeremy, thank you so much for the detailed reviews.
I wanted to ask if you think filament printers are suitable for printing action figures (parts to put together)?
I am mostly concerned about joints and how smooth they will move.
P.s. dont want to work with the resin due to material toxicity
Yes, they are. There's a project called Lucky 13 that's a great example of this. These have great articulation that are more expressive than most things you find in stores. Here's a link to it. www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure
@FigureFeedback, thank you so much for the reply and the link.
Designing more articulated and accurate version of something like batman is mostly the reason i want to get a 3d printer.
Very happy that things like that are getting more accessible
I have a resin printer and it is soooo difficult to deal with in terms of clean up!! My goodness, I really underestimated how many paper towels is needed just for one figure.
Where did you get the files from?
There are now some links to those in the description.
micro center has these for 450. 300 without the ams lite.
And worth noting on the resign argument... if you use it for functional prints as well as miniatures, FDM printing is much stronger
You should turn off auto-focus when speaking from a static position.
Agreed, and I've done that since this video.