I used to use Squirt for my bike chains and I like it very much. However I want to experiment with waxing (paraffin). I waxed a chain in one of my bikes, but hadn't have a chance to try it yet. (It is cold and wet outside) I've used paraffin wax from candles. It is impossible to buy PTFE (even on Aliexpress) so I think about adding some liquid paraffin (~10%) to make it less brittle. I know it is going to attract more dirt, however I'gonna try it. As to cleaning the chain prior to waxing: I use gasoline shake, then boil it in water with some strong detergent (All Puropse Cleaner-APC) then do one more shake with alkohol (denatured alkohol or IPA) Of course I 've watched all the "oz cycle" wideos on the subject. Greetings from Poland!
@@minhajhassan2898 i didn't use 1,6 micron so i don't know the difference 😅 Chain is not stretched so I think it did well. I didn't see any exceeded wax on chain and it wasn't creaking before 300-400 km after lubrication. Worked fine for me.
@@sutryk21 ah ok then it means it was a success. Many of the people complained that their PTFE was coagulating and not mixing well with the paraffin wax. The solution provided was to use 1.6 micron and not any higher value.
on knowing waxing; I like tend to use wax for all and sundry bee wax available at hardwares, eg. in locks where keys won't get lubricated and go into pockets, as well as bolts nuts for keep from rusting,
My first MTB was cleaned and lubricated with wet oil lube once per year, 6 Y long, 80.000km, never replaced chain, cassette, crank..and still sifted very well..unfortunately it was stolen..idea was it to ride it 100.000km by lubing 1x year strategy
I have been waxing my chains for a year. Recently started using PTFE powder, but the chain keeps dropping in lower (harder) gears or when I start off. Have you had this issue?
Did you inspect the drivetrain for excess wax deposits on the gears, and derailleur? In my case I had trouble shifting the gears properly due to this issue, until I cleaned the excess wax off. Other issue might be the stretched out chain or the casset, which can be checked by a proper tool.
Thank you for the video. Do you have any experience of using waxed chain in subzero temperatures? I discovered the paraffin waxing last winter. But when the temperature gets below -10C the waxed chain becomes very stiff, which results in chain skipping (the chain, casette and cogs are not worn).
Hi Анатолий. Yes, I am aware of this problem. A possible solution is to dilute paraffin mixture in xylene and to iberally apply it on your chain before or even during the ride. Unfortunately, I live in a tropical climate and it is a bit hard to comment on this using my experience.
@Vicki Peterson Luckily, I do not live in colder climates, as I hate cold weather. To me, adding paraffin (or mineral) oil defeats the purpose of paraffin waxing, as the chain then starts to attract dirt and paraffin lubrication of the chain loses its benefits.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding Adding paraffin oil to the wax mixture is recommended when riding in wet/cold climates. The chain will attract dirt more so but the benefit is that it will last longer and not wash off in wet/colder climates. The benefit of not attracting dirt in cold, wet northern hemisphere climates is frankly secondary and almost unavoidable.
@@J88HNT Yes, unfortunately, it is hard for me to comment on cold climates, but I have riden a lot in the rain and can say that any oily lubes attract sand from the road during rain and create a grinding paste.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding 100% factually correct but where I’m from that unavoidable. In the UK, us cycling enthusiasts have to wash and maintain our bikes a lot more than our Aussie counterparts.
Yes, you can use paraffin only without PTFE. If efficiency isn’t important to you, then you can simply use pure food-grade paraffin wax by itself. Expect such a thing to give up approximately 0.7 W (at 250 W, 90 RPM) compared to a mix with PTFE. That slight increase in friction will also likely coincide with an increase in chain wear - although the exact difference will likely be negligible.
Spent the whole video talking and showing your face. No one cares, show the process and final results. Thats what you selected as the key frame didnt you? Not your face. This is like the path less pedaled guy, always showing his face in every video like anyone cares
Thanks for your time and suggestions. This is not a practical instruction, rather a summary of the info on the subject. I feel that there is enough guides showing how to melt paraffin and swoosh your chain around in it.
you seem like a very nice person but you obviously clearly have no clue what you're talke about. The many chain rollers in a chain require lubing. Runnin nonlubed chains causes chains to heat up (due to friction). Lubing the intricate roller constructions in every joint (2 per joint) is essential and different clean lubing already shows massive differences. If you add in contamination, it becomes even more obvious that dirt-attracting lubes are to be avoided. After drag due to non optimal aero position of the rider, friction losses inflicted by poorly lubed or dirty chains are the most important cause of energy loss. So this attention to lube of the chain is not a temporary fad, it has been around and will continue to evolve. Hopefully increase the 300K longevity. Oh yeah, isopropanol is also a methylated spirit, not something separate.
My point was not that you should not lubricating the chains, it was that it is not as critical and is very forgiving. If that was the only point you have obtained from my video I obviously have not done my job right. Try conducting an experiment - run your vehicle completely dry for 100 Kms (remove motor oil) run your bike chain dry for 100 Kms - compare the results.
I used to use Squirt for my bike chains and I like it very much.
However I want to experiment with waxing (paraffin).
I waxed a chain in one of my bikes, but hadn't have a chance to try it yet.
(It is cold and wet outside)
I've used paraffin wax from candles. It is impossible to buy PTFE (even on Aliexpress) so I think about adding some liquid paraffin (~10%) to make it less brittle. I know it is going to attract more dirt, however I'gonna try it.
As to cleaning the chain prior to waxing: I use gasoline shake, then boil it in water with some strong detergent (All Puropse Cleaner-APC) then do one more shake with alkohol (denatured alkohol or IPA)
Of course I 've watched all the "oz cycle" wideos on the subject.
Greetings from Poland!
Na allegro jest proszek PTFE, ale z ziarnem 4 μm. 1,6 μ niby na aliexpress jest, ale nie chciało mi się czekać ;)
@@sutryk21 Wosk parafinowy+ 5% olej parafinowy i działa doskonale, dzięki!
@@sutryk21 how did that work out for you? Did it make a bit difference, using 4 micron?
@@minhajhassan2898 i didn't use 1,6 micron so i don't know the difference 😅
Chain is not stretched so I think it did well. I didn't see any exceeded wax on chain and it wasn't creaking before 300-400 km after lubrication.
Worked fine for me.
@@sutryk21 ah ok then it means it was a success. Many of the people complained that their PTFE was coagulating and not mixing well with the paraffin wax. The solution provided was to use 1.6 micron and not any higher value.
What is the best blend (paraffin wax and micro crystal)? Thanks
on knowing waxing; I like tend to use wax for all and sundry bee wax available at hardwares, eg. in locks where keys won't get lubricated and go into pockets, as well as bolts nuts for keep from rusting,
Why bees wax though and not paraffin? Paraffin offers better lubcriaction and is cheaper.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding Beeswax can soften paraffin wax when used in low concentration. This increases wet condition reliability.
My first MTB was cleaned and lubricated with wet oil lube once per year, 6 Y long, 80.000km, never replaced chain, cassette, crank..and still sifted very well..unfortunately it was stolen..idea was it to ride it 100.000km by lubing 1x year strategy
I have been waxing my chains for a year. Recently started using PTFE powder, but the chain keeps dropping in lower (harder) gears or when I start off. Have you had this issue?
Maybe with less ptfe in your mix will work better
Did you inspect the drivetrain for excess wax deposits on the gears, and derailleur? In my case I had trouble shifting the gears properly due to this issue, until I cleaned the excess wax off.
Other issue might be the stretched out chain or the casset, which can be checked by a proper tool.
Does pfte make a big difference vs just paraffin?
Squirt has crude paraffin? I think that is what I heard. For a moment or at first I thought he said 2-propanol
It does have crude wax. I think you are right.
What do you think the use of graphite instead of ptfe?
Of course not. It defeats the purpose as it is "dirty" so the chain will become soily. Also, when wet, graphite turns into concrete (turns hard).
Wow didn't know that, I think I´ll be using only wax cause ptfe shipping cost is little expensive. Tanks
Thank you for the video. Do you have any experience of using waxed chain in subzero temperatures? I discovered the paraffin waxing last winter. But when the temperature gets below -10C the waxed chain becomes very stiff, which results in chain skipping (the chain, casette and cogs are not worn).
Hi Анатолий. Yes, I am aware of this problem. A possible solution is to dilute paraffin mixture in xylene and to iberally apply it on your chain before or even during the ride. Unfortunately, I live in a tropical climate and it is a bit hard to comment on this using my experience.
@Vicki Peterson Luckily, I do not live in colder climates, as I hate cold weather. To me, adding paraffin (or mineral) oil defeats the purpose of paraffin waxing, as the chain then starts to attract dirt and paraffin lubrication of the chain loses its benefits.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding Adding paraffin oil to the wax mixture is recommended when riding in wet/cold climates. The chain will attract dirt more so but the benefit is that it will last longer and not wash off in wet/colder climates. The benefit of not attracting dirt in cold, wet northern hemisphere climates is frankly secondary and almost unavoidable.
@@J88HNT Yes, unfortunately, it is hard for me to comment on cold climates, but I have riden a lot in the rain and can say that any oily lubes attract sand from the road during rain and create a grinding paste.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding 100% factually correct but where I’m from that unavoidable. In the UK, us cycling enthusiasts have to wash and maintain our bikes a lot more than our Aussie counterparts.
So how often do you have to re-wax or maintain a newly waxed chain?
I usually do it every 200 kms. However, it's been reported that a waxing can last until 300 kms.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding what?? heard it last up to 6 months..
PTFE only makes a difference on a test bench, it's not noticeable and it is avoidable pollution.
Could we have waxing with parafin only without the additive, will it be any issue ? Hard to get ptfe here ..
Yes, you can use paraffin only without PTFE. If efficiency isn’t important to you, then you can simply use pure food-grade paraffin wax by itself. Expect such a thing to give up approximately 0.7 W (at 250 W, 90 RPM) compared to a mix with PTFE. That slight increase in friction will also likely coincide with an increase in chain wear - although the exact difference will likely be negligible.
Can i use baby powder instead of ptfe powder since it is hard to get ptfe powder in my place
Baby powder is talcum powder so no. Just use paraffin without PTFE then.
@@Hard_Work_Is_Rewarding ok thanks
Spent the whole video talking and showing your face. No one cares, show the process and final results. Thats what you selected as the key frame didnt you? Not your face. This is like the path less pedaled guy, always showing his face in every video like anyone cares
Thanks for your time and suggestions. This is not a practical instruction, rather a summary of the info on the subject. I feel that there is enough guides showing how to melt paraffin and swoosh your chain around in it.
you seem like a very nice person but you obviously clearly have no clue what you're talke about. The many chain rollers in a chain require lubing. Runnin nonlubed chains causes chains to heat up (due to friction). Lubing the intricate roller constructions in every joint (2 per joint) is essential and different clean lubing already shows massive differences. If you add in contamination, it becomes even more obvious that dirt-attracting lubes are to be avoided. After drag due to non optimal aero position of the rider, friction losses inflicted by poorly lubed or dirty chains are the most important cause of energy loss. So this attention to lube of the chain is not a temporary fad, it has been around and will continue to evolve. Hopefully increase the 300K longevity. Oh yeah, isopropanol is also a methylated spirit, not something separate.
My point was not that you should not lubricating the chains, it was that it is not as critical and is very forgiving. If that was the only point you have obtained from my video I obviously have not done my job right.
Try conducting an experiment - run your vehicle completely dry for 100 Kms (remove motor oil) run your bike chain dry for 100 Kms - compare the results.