Those are totally different. What I am talking about here is for the programming strategy of the computer to control the solenoids. Those codes mean that the computer is not seeing what it commanded the transmission to do. So, anything that keeps the transmission from going to a certain gear can cause a code like that. The solenoid itself, stuck valve, something wrong with the clutch that the solenoid is controlling or could even be a wrong ratio (but "usually" you will get other codes with a wrong ratio).
hi there, i have a question. whenever you change a solenoid does it have to be programmed or can it be just a swap and youre good to go? i have a fusion with 6F35 and it threw a code P0741 for the solenoid stuck off
If you use the same band number no. If you don't use the same number you are not going to know what strategy number to use. That information is not out there. You would have to log every solenoid set up and strategy number you see to know how all of them are set up. That code could be a lot of stuff. Worn valves in the valve body, bad lead plate, solenoid, pump or torque converter.
i changed the solenoids on 6f35 gen 1 they have green bottom and yellow bottom the stamped numbers didnt mean anything for me the only thing that mattered for me was green were hi pressure the yellow were low pressure
You're right, should have said that also. Thanks for pointing that out. Some are on the valve body, some on the pan, different ones different places. Key word there is should, this one does not have it and the tag on the case is getting pretty faded in places. The main point I was trying to get across was don't mix the solenoids up because then that strategy number is not any good any more anyways and you have no way of knowing what it should be. With 6 solenoids and 5 combinations each you have 720 different solenoid strategies. Thanks for watching.
Quick question. What if you have the strategy numbers but not the solenoid body i.d.? If you just update the strategy and not the idn, can that cause issues?
I ask because im in this situation where I cant update the idn due to not being able to obtain those numbers. Transmission runs rough and clunky. Downshifts violently.
The strategy number is the important one. It should pull up the ID when you go to the website to reprogram. Did you program it or someone else? You can look on the scanner and see if the number they programmed is the same as the strategy number. If you lost the tag, the strategy number is etched on the valve body. Also did you reset the adaptives after programming?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes, adaptive tables were reset. Strategy was updated through ford ids. The shop did the update in front of me. Im concerned because along with the rough shifting, theres some sort of binding condition thats happening. I can cruise at a steady speed and something is binding up. Feels like im hitting the brakes for a split second. Does it over and over again. No codes. Newly rebuilt 6r80. Built by professional shop and installed by a professional shop.
Does a magical store exist somewhere that sells individual solenoids? I am one step from buying a whole referbed valve body assembly over stuck solenoid codes
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the heads up I found a honey pot of solenoids on there. Been testing my solenoids with a 12v battery and cleaning them. They still move but A and C seem stuck. Ohms read out. Round 2 begins today I'm gonna give it one more go before buying new used ones.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Your videos have really helped me out here. Almost all mine have a flow rate of 4 so I think I'm on the right track. Do you mind me asking, can a solenoid still be junk if the plungers move with a healthy loud click and the ohm rating sits around 5ohm? If I had a spare solenoid around I would cut it open and examine the thing. I have really expanded my transmission skills this year working on this thing haha.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I got one for ya. I just tested all solenoids. One seems weaker than the rest. I continuity tested the lead plate while I was at it, but I just replaced the oil cooler on the top of the tranny of the AWD 1.6. It was absolutely clogged and I am curious if it's the reason my oil pump/TC failed. Ever see that on an Escape before? Curious if my shifting problems will be gone now that my system might get proper oil pressure.
What's the difference between the brown plastic and the black plastic
The brown's are normally vented, the blacks are normally applied.
What about letters A and B we see
On DTC codes
(shift solenoid "B" stuck off) For example
Thanks 💛
Those are totally different. What I am talking about here is for the programming strategy of the computer to control the solenoids. Those codes mean that the computer is not seeing what it commanded the transmission to do. So, anything that keeps the transmission from going to a certain gear can cause a code like that. The solenoid itself, stuck valve, something wrong with the clutch that the solenoid is controlling or could even be a wrong ratio (but "usually" you will get other codes with a wrong ratio).
Thanks for the nice explained video/information, Singh
Glad it was helpful!
hi there, i have a question. whenever you change a solenoid does it have to be programmed or can it be just a swap and youre good to go? i have a fusion with 6F35 and it threw a code P0741 for the solenoid stuck off
If you use the same band number no. If you don't use the same number you are not going to know what strategy number to use. That information is not out there. You would have to log every solenoid set up and strategy number you see to know how all of them are set up. That code could be a lot of stuff. Worn valves in the valve body, bad lead plate, solenoid, pump or torque converter.
i just swapped mine it was good
strategy number is for the valve body
not the solenoids themselves
How’d it go did you end up replacing the solenoid itself only??? I also got the same issue and code with ford fusion, solenoid stuck off
Hello friend an inquiry, for a 2013 ford escape 1.6 are the same numbers, thanks
Probably not. That is what the tag is for. To let you know how to program it. There are so many different combinations it is not even funny.
Hi Do i need the Body ID number t oprogram the car or is the stratagy number fine? its a 2017 f150 5.0 6R80 transmission
It's best to have both numbers handy when you call the programmer.
i changed the solenoids on 6f35 gen 1 they have green bottom and yellow bottom the stamped numbers didnt mean anything for me the only thing that mattered for me was green were hi pressure the yellow were low pressure
You need the strategy number for the Gen 2. Gen 1 is totally different.
The strategy number should also be on the VB electrical connector.
You're right, should have said that also. Thanks for pointing that out. Some are on the valve body, some on the pan, different ones different places. Key word there is should, this one does not have it and the tag on the case is getting pretty faded in places. The main point I was trying to get across was don't mix the solenoids up because then that strategy number is not any good any more anyways and you have no way of knowing what it should be. With 6 solenoids and 5 combinations each you have 720 different solenoid strategies. Thanks for watching.
Quick question. What if you have the strategy numbers but not the solenoid body i.d.? If you just update the strategy and not the idn, can that cause issues?
Are we talking about a 6R80 or another transmission?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission 6r80
I ask because im in this situation where I cant update the idn due to not being able to obtain those numbers. Transmission runs rough and clunky. Downshifts violently.
The strategy number is the important one. It should pull up the ID when you go to the website to reprogram. Did you program it or someone else? You can look on the scanner and see if the number they programmed is the same as the strategy number. If you lost the tag, the strategy number is etched on the valve body. Also did you reset the adaptives after programming?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes, adaptive tables were reset. Strategy was updated through ford ids. The shop did the update in front of me. Im concerned because along with the rough shifting, theres some sort of binding condition thats happening. I can cruise at a steady speed and something is binding up. Feels like im hitting the brakes for a split second. Does it over and over again. No codes. Newly rebuilt 6r80. Built by professional shop and installed by a professional shop.
Does a magical store exist somewhere that sells individual solenoids? I am one step from buying a whole referbed valve body assembly over stuck solenoid codes
Ebay
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the heads up I found a honey pot of solenoids on there. Been testing my solenoids with a 12v battery and cleaning them. They still move but A and C seem stuck. Ohms read out. Round 2 begins today I'm gonna give it one more go before buying new used ones.
@@keech2540 If you have Gen 2 solenoids they will have a band number. Best to get the same number. If you're 1 number off it usually will work though.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Your videos have really helped me out here. Almost all mine have a flow rate of 4 so I think I'm on the right track.
Do you mind me asking, can a solenoid still be junk if the plungers move with a healthy loud click and the ohm rating sits around 5ohm?
If I had a spare solenoid around I would cut it open and examine the thing. I have really expanded my transmission skills this year working on this thing haha.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I got one for ya. I just tested all solenoids. One seems weaker than the rest. I continuity tested the lead plate while I was at it, but I just replaced the oil cooler on the top of the tranny of the AWD 1.6. It was absolutely clogged and I am curious if it's the reason my oil pump/TC failed. Ever see that on an Escape before? Curious if my shifting problems will be gone now that my system might get proper oil pressure.
Thanks for the nice explained video/information, Singh
Thanks for watching.