Dale - I've refurbished four enduros. Each one has had the fork tubes re-chromed and the seals replaced. Unfortunately each bike has at least one leaking tube. Is the likely cause a bent tube? Or? Thanks, I'm really enjoying and learning a lot from your videos.
Hi Graham, dont know for sure but that is a real possibility, I dont think I have every taken a set of forks apart, that at least one tube wasnt bent. I have done several videos on checking straightness and straighting the tubes. You may also check the diameter of the tubes with a caliper to see if the plater got the thickness right when he chromed and reground them. Just check several places to make sure they are all 32 mm or what every the size is suppose to be. Hey, thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
@montana2strokeracer do you recall what size the o-rings are? I replaced my seals and o-rings, but they are leaking. I used 1 5/8" OD, 1 7/16" ID 3/32" width as that appeared to match what I removed.
Well, I think my issue was the outer nut just wasn't tight enough. I'm guessing the the o-ring just wasn't seated against the lower tube. I had to clean the nut with solvent; wrap with duct tape; use a strip of sand paper to get a little more grip with my strap wrench. That allow me to get another 10° or so of rotation on the nut.
Hi Ed, yes the tubes are the same as long as you stay within the same year and style of forks. The series was changing a AT1 to a CT1, the entire bike. Which really means doing the engine mods and the electrical mods.
They turned out nice.
Dale - I've refurbished four enduros. Each one has had the fork tubes re-chromed and the seals replaced. Unfortunately each bike has at least one leaking tube. Is the likely cause a bent tube? Or? Thanks, I'm really enjoying and learning a lot from your videos.
Hi Graham, dont know for sure but that is a real possibility, I dont think I have every taken a set of forks apart, that at least one tube wasnt bent. I have done several videos on checking straightness and straighting the tubes. You may also check the diameter of the tubes with a caliper to see if the plater got the thickness right when he chromed and reground them. Just check several places to make sure they are all 32 mm or what every the size is suppose to be. Hey, thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanķs Dale, I never thought about the thickness of the chrome. Makes sense.
@montana2strokeracer do you recall what size the o-rings are? I replaced my seals and o-rings, but they are leaking.
I used 1 5/8" OD, 1 7/16" ID 3/32" width as that appeared to match what I removed.
Well, I think my issue was the outer nut just wasn't tight enough. I'm guessing the the o-ring just wasn't seated against the lower tube.
I had to clean the nut with solvent; wrap with duct tape; use a strip of sand paper to get a little more grip with my strap wrench. That allow me to get another 10° or so of rotation on the nut.
Hey Jon, I don't remember what oring. I just match them up from my harbor freight o ring kit.
Are the AT1 and the CT1 inner fork tubes the same? Your video is titled AT1 to CT1 fork rebuild.
Hi Ed, yes the tubes are the same as long as you stay within the same year and style of forks. The series was changing a AT1 to a CT1, the entire bike. Which really means doing the engine mods and the electrical mods.