Thanks Jack, Its not too bad a job. Im seeing more and more of them as the bikes get older. Hard to get good cranks anymore. Have picked up a few NOS crank halfs, it just seems people want to beat on the mag side ones. That just ruins them. Hope your other surgury goes well, I will be doing it soon my self.
Thank you Daniel, I think folks just have to find me. Kevin is giving me some visablity . Hoping that will help. Thank you for the kind words, hope you enjoy my channel. Thanks for subscribing and watching.
Hi Dale. Sadly I think that is the case with a lot of youtubers these days. A lot of great content out there that UA-cam makes almost invisible. You’ll be pleased to know that your video came up on my recommended section so it seems the algorithm is working in your favour! Really great channel, I’m especially enjoying the Suzuki build. Cheers from Australia
EDIT: Now, I have both needles moving the same, .005 total travel, but the high and the low spots are at 3 oclock and 9 oclock with respect to the pin... I am not seeing my maximum/minimum with the crank pin closest/furthest from the indicators as everyone suggests, its with the pin at 90 and 180 degrees. really have a conceptual problem with pinch and spread. The crank I am working on (the first one I have attempted) shows that it is pinched. Im getting an even needle swing now after hitting it a few times with my brass hammer to move the webs around to match each other......but the needles move .005-.006 high with the pin down, so "pinched". I have beat it with an aluminum 1/2 inch rod with the tip ground into a wedge and it is not budging a bit after several good smacks. What about a 10 ton press fit pin is going to move to "adjust" pinch and spread? I get the concept...but something would have to MOVE, or GIVE in order for the distance between one side of the webs and the other to be affected. The pin is not gonna bend. There is no clearance between the pin and the webs to permit the pin to move, or the webs to move on the pin perpendicularly to the pin. I mean really. ????????????? Ill try making a wider wedge tool at some point.... but still...an assembly such as my crank (from a 1970 kawasaki) should not have ANY room to flex or move in the way it would seem to need to. What moves with pinch or spread? Something would have to deform or bend in my estimation in order to change it.
Hi, sorry your having this problem, first...pinch and spread is a very rare condition I almost never see a problem with it. I need a bit of a background here, how are you measuring? Do you have it set between centers, or are you using "V" blocks. Where do you have the indicators placed on the shafts, they should be as far out on the shafts on both sides that wont interfere with a key slot or anything else. If using "V" blocks they need to be located where the bearings go. It sounds like you have got the half's pressed on to far, do you not have clearance between the thrust washers and the rod and half's? That would be the only time that I would wedge the half's apart. It is hard to control the press when you get real close, sometimes it pops and doesnt leave the clearance I need, then I have to wedge it apart. But you do that as close to the pin as possible.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks for the reply. I have the crank in a small lathe between 2 made dead centers. I had been measuring about 2 inches out from the journal areas, I could get out further for sure, I suppose the deflection would be higher further out. One end of the crank is a lot longer then the other, I reckon I should go as far out as I can on the shorter side and match that distance on the longer one. I am assuming since the needles are moving the same and the same amount, that the halves are lined up as far as rotation on the pin. (Took some adjustments to get there). Thrust washer clearance is in spec. with the needles at the high point, it seems id have to spread the crank at that point, or pinch the opposite side. Possible only because the high spot is 90 degrees off the pin. Thats where I was getting a bit fuzzy, I cant see the crank halves moving closer together on one side but not the other. I've left it sit the last couple days, I'll get back at it tomorrow I think. Having said all of that, (sorry I am a bit wordy) I would accept that my truing rig may not be the best. (Old craftsman lathe) I made a different type of stand for it, I will give that a go, and also I think I will take the crank into work tonight and put it on the big lathe there and see how it reads. Thanks again!
Its a very tight interferance fit, so any thing you put on it will more than likely just be pushed off. But it wont hurt anything to put some light oil on the pin and in the crank half.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks for the reply Dale! Great info, thank you!. Sorry to bother you but I have one last question, do you replace your crank bearings that are pressed into the case halves when you install a new con rod kit. My con rod big end bearing went but I can't find any evidence of contamination in these bearings. They look clean and feel great, would you replace them?
Yes I would Robert. But I have to leave that decision to you. Sometimes I take chances on my own stuff. But not for a customer. Thanks for following along.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks Dale! Good answer. I think if someone would have put that same question to me, I'd answer the same way. I think I'll be changing them. :) Thanks again! Also thanks for posting your videos, they're very good.
No, I would not recommend that. The pin is your inside bearing race. The rod is your outside bearing race. You are defeating the purpose of replacing the bearing and rod in the first place. Bearing, rod, thrust washers, and pin must be replaced at the same time. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Great video Dale. I've never done this before, but will definitely refer back to this video if the need arises in the future.
Thanks Jack, Its not too bad a job. Im seeing more and more of them as the bikes get older. Hard to get good cranks anymore. Have picked up a few NOS crank halfs, it just seems people want to beat on the mag side ones. That just ruins them. Hope your other surgury goes well, I will be doing it soon my self.
Liked and subscribed. I’m staggered that you don’t have more subscribers! Great content. Cheers
Thank you Daniel, I think folks just have to find me. Kevin is giving me some visablity . Hoping that will help. Thank you for the kind words, hope you enjoy my channel. Thanks for subscribing and watching.
Hi Dale. Sadly I think that is the case with a lot of youtubers these days. A lot of great content out there that UA-cam makes almost invisible. You’ll be pleased to know that your video came up on my recommended section so it seems the algorithm is working in your favour! Really great channel, I’m especially enjoying the Suzuki build.
Cheers from Australia
I’m impressed
Thank you, appreciate you stopping by. More like this coming.
Thanks for sharing brother.
EDIT: Now, I have both needles moving the same, .005 total travel, but the high and the low spots are at 3 oclock and 9 oclock with respect to the pin... I am not seeing my maximum/minimum with the crank pin closest/furthest from the indicators as everyone suggests, its with the pin at 90 and 180 degrees.
really have a conceptual problem with pinch and spread. The crank I am working on (the first one I have attempted) shows that it is pinched. Im getting an even needle swing now after hitting it a few times with my brass hammer to move the webs around to match each other......but the needles move .005-.006 high with the pin down, so "pinched". I have beat it with an aluminum 1/2 inch rod with the tip ground into a wedge and it is not budging a bit after several good smacks. What about a 10 ton press fit pin is going to move to "adjust" pinch and spread? I get the concept...but something would have to MOVE, or GIVE in order for the distance between one side of the webs and the other to be affected. The pin is not gonna bend. There is no clearance between the pin and the webs to permit the pin to move, or the webs to move on the pin perpendicularly to the pin. I mean really. ????????????? Ill try making a wider wedge tool at some point.... but still...an assembly such as my crank (from a 1970 kawasaki) should not have ANY room to flex or move in the way it would seem to need to. What moves with pinch or spread? Something would have to deform or bend in my estimation in order to change it.
Hi, sorry your having this problem, first...pinch and spread is a very rare condition I almost never see a problem with it. I need a bit of a background here, how are you measuring? Do you have it set between centers, or are you using "V" blocks. Where do you have the indicators placed on the shafts, they should be as far out on the shafts on both sides that wont interfere with a key slot or anything else. If using "V" blocks they need to be located where the bearings go.
It sounds like you have got the half's pressed on to far, do you not have clearance between the thrust washers and the rod and half's? That would be the only time that I would wedge the half's apart. It is hard to control the press when you get real close, sometimes it pops and doesnt leave the clearance I need, then I have to wedge it apart. But you do that as close to the pin as possible.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks for the reply. I have the crank in a small lathe between 2 made dead centers. I had been measuring about 2 inches out from the journal areas, I could get out further for sure, I suppose the deflection would be higher further out. One end of the crank is a lot longer then the other, I reckon I should go as far out as I can on the shorter side and match that distance on the longer one. I am assuming since the needles are moving the same and the same amount, that the halves are lined up as far as rotation on the pin. (Took some adjustments to get there).
Thrust washer clearance is in spec. with the needles at the high point, it seems id have to spread the crank at that point, or pinch the opposite side. Possible only because the high spot is 90 degrees off the pin. Thats where I was getting a bit fuzzy, I cant see the crank halves moving closer together on one side but not the other. I've left it sit the last couple days, I'll get back at it tomorrow I think.
Having said all of that, (sorry I am a bit wordy) I would accept that my truing rig may not be the best. (Old craftsman lathe) I made a different type of stand for it, I will give that a go, and also I think I will take the crank into work tonight and put it on the big lathe there and see how it reads.
Thanks again!
Great video! Quick question though, do you lube the pin before press fitting into the crank halves or do they get pressed in dry?
Its a very tight interferance fit, so any thing you put on it will more than likely just be pushed off. But it wont hurt anything to put some light oil on the pin and in the crank half.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks for the reply Dale! Great info, thank you!. Sorry to bother you but I have one last question, do you replace your crank bearings that are pressed into the case halves when you install a new con rod kit. My con rod big end bearing went but I can't find any evidence of contamination in these bearings. They look clean and feel great, would you replace them?
Yes I would Robert. But I have to leave that decision to you. Sometimes I take chances on my own stuff. But not for a customer. Thanks for following along.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks Dale! Good answer. I think if someone would have put that same question to me, I'd answer the same way. I think I'll be changing them. :) Thanks again! Also thanks for posting your videos, they're very good.
Hi Dale, great content. I am more of a Yamaha DT MX man but learning a lot. How many tons do you press approximately
Thank you, I don't have a gauge on my press, but I am sure it's around 10 tons, my press is 20 ton.
Hi, Nice video!!
could you please help me understand, when changing connecting rod kit, do you go for over size pin or same size pin? Thanks
It seems most replacement pins are .0005 inches oversized but I dont believe it is necessary in most cases. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer Thank you for replying. Is it possible to re-use old pin if it is not damaged?
No, I would not recommend that. The pin is your inside bearing race. The rod is your outside bearing race. You are defeating the purpose of replacing the bearing and rod in the first place. Bearing, rod, thrust washers, and pin must be replaced at the same time. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks again for promptly replying. Appreciate your time and patience.
Your welcome.