Damn right. If you're new to this go Japanese 15 years old and pay £700. ($900). After a few entry level drugs like changing bulbs and speakers you'll be hooked, then you'll fall in love with the savings. If you're worried about what others think about you, wear socks with sandals and your life is cleansed of shallow people. Within a decade you'll be cruising around in modern luxury classics intimate with every nut, wire and oily bit.
If you're buying at the 'bottom end' learn that Make & Model's issues with a quick google...and check its MOT record online I've done 75k in my £500 1995 Pug since 2011, it still averages 47mpg despite being a quarter million miler and repair costs are measured in double, not triple, figures. I hope to still have it another 7 years!
I bought a new Honda Accord in December of 1990, still driving it, although in the next 50,000 miles if the transmission doesn't quit I have to make the decision whether or not to put another cam belt in it. On the bright side every time I fill up the gas tank I figure I've almost doubled the value of my car
If you don't make a Commitment to a car it is only a matter of time before it packs its bags and leaves you, probably at the side of the road. I've only had one new car, a 2008 Volvo C30, which was great, but in 2010 I sold it and bought a £400 S70. I maintained it meticulously and every fault or niggle was repaired promptly so the car was almost perfect. At Christmas last year the engine blew without warning, a rarity in an old Volvo. I sourced a new engine in Wales and had arranged to go there and collect it, but because I was so far from home and my tools I abandoned the idea and ended up scrapping a near perfect car. To this day I feel that I let it down rather than it - me, it was like an old friend and I dropped my side of the deal and lost an old friend. I now have a Rover 75 (I know!) but it's getting the same treatment and like the Volvo which never broke down in the 8 years/80000 miles I owned it, the Rover is maintained, niggles and faults corrected promptly, and in 10 months it has run flawlessly. There is no reason why an old banger can't be as reliable as a New Car. My success in this field is testament to that.
Its's not that rare for an old Volvo to blow its engine. I see plenty of them for sale needing head gaskets. They aren't the reliable cars they used to be.
Wife’s SMax 2l Diesel has now covered 211000 miles and has original engine, gearbox, clutch, DMF, PDF, EGR, Turbo etc. I personally drove it for 110000 miles a few years ago. It has simply been serviced every 12500 miles and that’s the most important aspect of running a car to a high mileage, make sure you service it.
I've got a 1.9tdi audi a4 estate, Y reg, paid £600, 374,000 miles, doesn't miss a beat. I change oil and filter religiously every 5000 miles. Bodywork isn't 100% but I reckon mechanically it's good for another 100k
So 4 years after this was posted, and Ian still isn't an electric car owner. He still buys "odd" cars like a Kitten or an Invacar. Which makes for great viewing for us. Thank you Ian.
My first car I ever bought was a 1986 D reg Datsun (or was it Nissan) Sunny 1.3, back in 2000, for £495. I kept up with the servicing using cheap parts from Halfords and the like, and the car ran for years without any grief.
I've bought a 1992 Nissan Pintara as my first car for $2,500 AUD. It mostly went well despite a few simple and near catastrophic mechanical problems but there were repaired. I needed to replace my car though and sold the car for $1,100 with a roadworthy certificate included. Later when I checked the registration online, the registration for the car was cancelled around three years ago. It had traveled around 208,000 kilometres.
whilst I understand your concern I think you will find that in the future all the 2nd hand cars full of black boxes will be as easily maintained by mechanics who understand them - instead of wielding a spanner it will be a laptop - more likely a mobile phone - and will be able to download programmes to fix stuff from Venezuela or Buxton - if a car has a fan base or someone wants one badly enough there will be money in it and your local garage will fix it
Im looking for a fairly low priced Toyota Corolla as a daily. The last generation model before the Auris. I don't go for the first one when i see when looking for cars. I do my research and checks.
Apparently, I have always been a Bangernomicer & have owned a series of Bangers over the years and never ever had a new car. I currently have a 11 y.o. Mazda 6 station wagon (estate to you lot). Found it advertised "as is" for $1800 CAD and paid for a stem to stern brake job. Got the thing licensed and road worthy for under $3500 CAD. I just love the old thing and can't imaging what else I would drive even if I won the lottery. Cheers. (My trouble is knowing when to let go, even though I am always trolling the want ads for bangers. I think its a sickness)
I had the cam belt changed on my Citroen C2 which included a new water pump and idler for £208 and when the old cam belt came off even though it was 10 year old the old the old belt still looked really good but better safe than sorry.
My idea of bangernomics is to buy a car that has been replaced by a new model. Had ZX which I got for €750 and drove it all over western Europe. Then I got a €2000 406, quite an upgrade and also pretty reliable. Now I am on a my third car a C5 V6, yet another upgrade and nice cruiser. Bought it for €2650 with a service from a Citroën specialist I knew. No real issues as long buy a good car to begin with. My limit is about €3000 and this exactly how I figured a bigger car is cheaper to buy than a small car. Yes a bit more running costs but then you get some comfort and joy out of it as well.
Some good points made there, If I'm interested in buying a car that has a timing belt regardless of how much I'm paying for it £100 or a grand, the first question I ask is when the belt was last replaced. Cos if it's due...then it's no longer a cheap buy.
Completely agree with you. Just because a car is old & worth almost nothing, doesn't mean you shouldn't look after it. I've got a 2003 TDi Seat Leon that I've happily run for 12 years. It's 90s technology and hopefully it'll keep going for a few more years. Like you I don't like the electronics in more modern cars, I think it may be the end of easy Bangernomics.
Ahhhhh my dear chap, you've mentioned that swearword - cambelts! Second only to those modern-day swearwords - diagnotic lights! Subscribed to your channel today and absolutely adoring your contributions. Ex-Merc (W123) lover here that, 3 years ago, bought a Jag X-type (JagDeo?) As a runaround for a month. Previous was 1 lady owner yet 3 years down the line, I have a gorgeous car that despite being 16 yeaes old, is absolutely mint - and drives like a dream. Not quite the 1982 mint 2.8 Granada Ghia, 1986 Datsun Laurel or 1975 Skoda 110R I'd adore but, unlike today's automatons, I won't be seduced into buying a piece of characterless pap that's been popped out of a jelly-mould! I wish you well dear chap in your quest for Automobile Utopia!!!!
Passat B5 Estate. 2002. 55k miles so far (up to 155k total), bombproof and a brilliant banger. Ford Fusion, local car, low miles, knackered lcutch! that has done me 30k miles for £500. Both those cars return 50+mpg
I've been lucky with the 2 cheap cars I've had, my Focus which cost £490 has proved to be very dependable and the £250 Matiz was a nice little car, the Matiz was sold on to another AS member, sadly though a few months later got scrapped due to needing a lot spending for the MOT
I've had nearly 50 cars since I passed my test at 18, 14 years ago. Nearly all of them 'bangers'. I now have a new car every 3 years, but, I still look at 'bangers' and long for their simplicity. Getting to know each cars quirks.
Pratting about on the net this morning as us petrolheads do and I went and got an insurance quote for the Nippa, cheap as chips and I also did a car check on it and OMG it passed its test yesterday and needed sod all to get it though. I need that Nippa in my life lol
@@HubNut Yeah I saw that,my motto with older cars is if the MOT is going to cost less than £500 then pay it because you know that car. Binning it and buying another is only a recipe for buying someone else's trouble.
Ive had the same approach the last few years since cars have become more complicate with the electronic systems etc. The old bmw and volvo i have now tho i think ill hang onto as i dont know what id replace them with that id like and be confident to work on.
Now my car wasn't intended to be a banger (though it may appear to be to the untrained eye) but my E30 325i cost me £1000 which I thought was a bargain, and over the next 12 months it cost me about £2000, and now a year into ownership there is another £2000 of work on the horizon... Your Range Rover anecdote reminded me of this fact! I will NOT let the bastard thing die though.
At least your e30's going up in value, especially if it's a 2 door! If you're spending that sort of money on it then it must be coming great. M20 in 2.5 is in my experience a superb engine, 800 rpm in 5th gear then at 4000 rpm woosh! Owned e30's for 18+ years and am waiting to build M20 into a 2.7 to go in my e30's touring.
I bought a brand new E30 325I in May 1986, and collected it from the factory in Munich. At home, about a month later, I found the extra option ( M-Technic ? ) rear shockers had collapsed. Totally gobsmacked. Today my transport is a 2002 Golf TDI 100 SE .... cruise, climate control... Cost £395 with 8 months MOT on eBay. 220,000 miles, mostly motorway with the owner of last 8 years. All service records. Owner lived on a farm, and car was photographed absolutely filthy, and some minor road scuffle on a rear wheel arch. Temperamental central locking is an annoyance. First thing I did was new oil, and all filters. Has never missed a beat over the 9 months I've owned it.
My cheapest car was a 2004 2.0HDi Peugeot Partner at £120! Ran it for a few months until someone rear ended me and I was paid £1200 for it from the insurer! I also had a 1998 Saxo that was the top spec and absolutely original even down to the wheel trims, it looked and acted factory fresh and cost £180. Only sold it when I part exchanged for a much newer car (which cost me over £2K in repairs over a year!)
Here in the USA, you can't find cheap cars unless you are VERY lucky (like they misspelled the car's model in the advert). Most cheap cars that you find have extremely high mileages, have major dents or rust, have serious engine or transmission problems, failed the emissions test, someone has taken them apart and not put them together again, or they just got hit in the front or rear. Any decent inexpensive car that come up for sale is gone in one day, snapped up by the dealers or flippers..
Im 51 most ive ever spent on a car was £2800 for my Mk2 1600e 4 years ago, day driver is a 2009 focus tdci for £700 cheap insurance £30 a year tax ( the main reason I bought it) , I knew it had issues as went into limp home mode so took a chance bought it, stuck my reader on it and it needed the dpf cleaned, once that was jet washed all has been good so far. Way too many electronic devices in cars now but some basic common sense and sites like this and you can get there on a budget.
Watching now and hearing you say 'I'm a little concerned about what I'll be buying in five years time'- now we know! A GSA that's painful to drive, a Mitsibishi Delica that dosent seem to stop, and a broken Yugo Sana. Still lovely old cars nonetheless, so maybe nothing to be concerned about!
hi Ian, i think you should bring back the bangernomics topic again, considering our current day and age made banger econoboxes more sensible to own than ever, but mainly because i couldn't hear you with the car humming about, maybe you should talk about it in a more silent car 😅
I have owned 8 cars in my motoring life. And the latest one was the first to cost more than £1k. I'm finding it harder to seek out bargains. I wonder if the online car sites ebay/autotrader have made it so easy to gauge a cars value - that it is harder to find a true bargain.
+buckleyboyben Hard to find a bargain on Ebay or Auto Trader. Gumtree and Facebook groups seem good places to hunt, but you'll have to wade through a lot of rubbish. There are still bargains around, and lower scrap values mean if anything, there are even more bargains to be had.
+HubNut The bargains are still there. Got an 02 reg 206 estate off ebay a couple of months ago for £300. Looking at the market I think it's actually worth £600-£700, but got lucky as no one wanted that particular car at that particular time. Boot lid doesn't open and interior is tatty, other than that fine. All the electrics work and mechanically sound.
How do you factor insurance costs in to the bangernomics theory? I love the idea of bangernomics and I’d have a different car regularly, but switching insurance around regularly seems to get expensive, especially if you have a small fleet!
Fleet policies are a thing, and you can often mix it up with classics and moderns. Sadly, some classic insurers have started to get very sniffy about covering some 20-30 year old cars since this video was made, but without business cover, I was usually paying £200-300 per year to cover four cars.
HubNut Thanks for the reply. It might be worth me looking in to fleet insurance again. I remember looking a few years back and it being an astronomical amount! Are there any companies you’d recommend?
This is so right. I buy older lower mileage cars (usually from older people) and run them until the cost of repair is not worth paying out, at which point they go to the breakers. Sometimes I get 5 years out of them, sometimes less, but never less than 2 years. Never paid more than £750 and do all my own servicing and any repairs that don't require a workshop/specialised tools. I don't want everyone to tumble to this way of doing things, mind. The source of bargain bangers will dry up if everyone starts being sensible...
Just prior to 2001 is the 'sweet spot'. Not as much sensor crap and plastic 'ginge' knocking about in the engine bay. Manufacturers only put that shite in to increase main steeler profits on labour. Year 2000 E46 for eleven hundred notes, 7 years and 120k miles ago, and all it's needed is a drink and a spring. Best car I've ever had.... and ever will
My bangernomics work as follows; Buy a cheap car, fix the absolute essential, drive it for 1000-2000km, see what breaks and whether it's worth fixing. If so, fix it and give it proper maintenance. That way you know what you've bought before you stick a lot of money into it. Works pretty well. As for the buying; Cambelt, tires, rot, mot. That's the four big things. You can bet on the MOT but I prefer buying one that's not older than half a year. Being fussy isn't an issue, people who put up an advertisement for a 500 pound car understand that you don't want to spend another 500 right after, unless the car is worth at least 1500 ;). You buying cars before the value goes up; Elly!
It is true that I paid £450 for Elly when I bought her 18 years ago. However, I've sunk many thousands of pounds into her since! She's my one exception to the rule. Generally, I buy cheap, hurl money at a car, then sell it at a loss because I'm bored...
True that, but these days you buy a 2cv for thousands of pounds and still need to put thousands in one. I'm not sure what it's like in the UK, but here a good 2cv would set you back 7-8000 pounds for a very un-rare 80's one.
£5000-6000 should get you a good one here. £8000 should be a minter. I think mine is insured for £6000. Probably about half what I've spent on it over the course of 18 years...
Hello Ian, thankfully in 2019 there's a huge amount of cheap motors i can get hold of. Let me know if your'e interested i get allsorts of stuff offered ..Simon
Ah ha, the Nippa rides again! :-) I am afraid the old Nippa had to have a new clutch a year or two before my Uncle stopped driving. He was extremely deaf (but he was in his late 90's) and refused to wear hearing aids, unfortunately he burnt the clutch out, he never used to take the car out of gear whilst at juctions or traffic lights and he used to ride the clutch whilst revving the car. My Auntie hated him doing this, but my Uncle seemed oblivious to the fact he did it!!! Ha ha ha!!! I can't remember now if he got John Child's to repair it, or if it was TC's just down the road, but it was a costly repair, and my Uncle wasn't happy!!! Ha ha ha!!!
My grandfather's the same. He's 81 and always just revs the hell out of the car (also deaf and won't wear a hearing aid "because they're for old people" his words, not mine. He also has something wrong with his left leg [which of course does the clutch] (I can't remember the proper term, but something to do with blood circulation), so can't always tell if he's pressing the clutch. Sometimes he'll end up grinding gears, or as you've said just pressing the clutch down as he's driving along without realising. He also won't wear glasses either while driving. He's got a 2004 Peugeot 206 with the 1.4L petrol and 5 speed manual, just over 60,000 miles on the original clutch. I guess Peugeot clutches are more durable compared to Perodua's...
Like your channel Hub Nut .Do you fancy making biscuits together? We could call them Hub Nuts. A cross between Hob Nobs and Ginger Nuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My Nissan Micra has run for 14 years since I bought it for the wife. Just coming up to 100,000 and one minor welding repair and just service items. It’s serviced twice a year and as long as I can keep it running I will! The mechanic who services it told me to keep it until the engine drops out as these cars are very reliable and no cambelt to replace unlike later models apparently also as it’s getting on 16 years old, the scratches and minor dents that it gets in Tesco’s car park, thanks moronic drivers, don’t bother me unduly! Long live cheap motoring, unlike the wife’s Zafira which was a money pit until she wrote it off!
Best cheap car is the Mitsubishi colt, i paid £600 for it with 93000 on the clock , 1 year on its done 107000 miles and not had to change or replace anything , the best thing is it has a timing chain so as long as oil is changed regularly it should hopefully get to 200 thousand miles
surely the xm is more comfortable (and better spec'ed) than the Perodua and certainly quieter or so it appears in the video! only £375 but what would you buy for £1500/£2000?
+bill coniston Oh yes. The tyre noise in the Perodua is hilarously loud. Two things stop me spending £1500-2000. 1) I don't have £1500-2000. 2) What if something went wrong after I'd spend £1500? The XM doesn't owe me very much - even after a year of motoring. If it was scrap tomorrow, I wouldn't feel hard done by. £1500 though? I'd then feel duty bound to spend even more if something major broke, and the car would keep on depreciating too. £1500-3000 is the most dangerous amount to spend buying a car I reckon. Either spend a lot more, or a lot less.
+HubNut yes I guess at £375 as long as you get a few months motoring your in profit and if anything major its scrap, just having a quick look on gumtree and there are a surprising amount of cars sub £500 too, anyhow thanks for videos! ps still love the XM!
+HubNut I agree with this. As discussed above I spent £1700 on a Ford Fusion, first car over £1000 in 15 years of driving. When it needed - front suspension strut rebuild, new wheel bearing, brake cylinder after first couple of thousand miles I went ahead and did it, knowing full well that I was paying the previous owners neglected maintenance costs :-(. It has been an expensive mistake, only saved by the mileage payments I get from my job.
That's the danger when paying a four-figure sum. If major work is needed, you feel to have to spend to protect that initial investment. In theory, it's cheaper to buy cheap and then (if you like the car) spend on its upkeep. Doesn't always work mind you!
Trouble is your average car driver cant tell a spark plug from a brake pad, they can hardly be expected to know how to pick up a decent cheap car. One girl I know wrote off at least 3, if not 4, cars simply because she never checked the oil and water.
I like cheap cars, but also like reliable cars, so compromising on maintenance just isn't an option for me. I am currently on my third Citroën Xantia Estate which is also the nicest of the ones I've owned, and it is also a pretty rare car now here in Denmark, even though there were huge amounts of them back in the 90's and early 2000's. So even though It was ridiculously cheap, I take very good care of it and enjoy every time I drive it 😃
Exactly! That's my idea of perfect Bangernomics. It isn't just 'buy cheap, throw away.' I spend far more maintaining my old crocks than they are worth. I have to rely on my cars for work.
Same here :-) By the way, like your videos - the first one I stumbled across was your BX TRD Break video. I had one of those as well, but that unfortunately was already driven to the ground. Good fun, but too unreliable :-)
I think the only time I've ever really gone wrong in buying an old car was when I helped a friend buy a Suzuki Kizashi a couple of years back. They'd just pulled from the North American market and had a decent reliability score. So, I figured he could get a fine, just off lease model and have a decent time with it. Well, low and behold, the dolt didn't know how to shift a manual gearbox on anything other than smooth, uncluttered surface roads near the dealership and the clutch blew. I got the blame and the dealer had to eat a clutch replacement after he practically nuked the place with his mouth. (btw: not a friend anymore and I do feel sorry for the car)
@@HubNut Hehe, it was cheap, it was low on the radar and came with what felt like ten pounds of servicing coupons. I feel at home, being a HubNutter. ;)
My Bangernomics are like yours and I have the same issue wondering what on earth I'll drive next because car makers insist on making cars that are oinly serviceable with special tools etc and that use computers etc. I've come to the decision that - even though I did like to enjoy my cars - I know only want/need the cheapest but half decent set of wheels that will do the job. Nothing smaller than 1.6 litre and nothing bigger than 2.5 litres with lots of space and practicality. Mass produced so parts are cheap. I think : Vauxhaul Zafira - 1.8 // Cheap Versatile and surprisingly tough - I've seen some go for 400k miles with minimum servicing!
Team33 actually i don't think it'll be that hard, mostly down to reading fault codes, which can be done with a rudimentary piece of kit. Most settings are fixed for life anyway. And if all else fails warning lights can be fixed by removing the bulb.
As above, its not that hard to do diagnostics yourself, and if you buy the right make, you can get diagnostics for that specific car very cheap. I have a Fiat Multipla (btw, it is also cheap, versatile, surprisingly tough and good to drive, in italy the taxi drivers are still using them I believe, and much more character than a zafira, AND has drives really well, I would say as good as my Avantime), you can buy a diagnostic lead off ebay for around £10 and download MultiECUscan for FREE (legally) which will allow you to see/do what a garage does on the laptop, rather than just having the generic codes. I believe VW group have something called VAGcom which is similarly cheap on ebay. But, like i said, check before you buy, if you want the similar equivalent for renault you will be looking at over £100 for a chinese knockoff, plus the investment in a laptop running XP as doesnt work on newer ones. That being said, ive just sold my 2002 fiesta because it suffered what i believe to be a computer failure (guy who bought it reckoned the turbo), however, a computer is just another part and on the whole can be bought salvage just like everything else. I sold the fiesta because it needed other work doing, and really i want to spend the time maintaining the avantime and multipla and have an economical and reliable car for commuting.
I'm so intrigued by the idea and have been watching for years, but I'm seeing a huge interest in prices and a major decline in the care give towards used cars. Example, $1500usd for a xc70 ocean race with a slipping transmission, loads of dents and damage, unknown cam belt status.
On the cam belt thing - surely if you saw a car for £500, you're buying on condition but prepared to do the essential servicing. I don't have as much experience as yourself but I have bought cars because of low ownership and condition and largely ignored age to get a relative bargain. Most buyers seem obsessed with what number plate it is - even if it is quite badly looked after... and even if the minter is only 2 years older - they reject it for the newer car with 3000 miles less, £1000 more expensive and often even the exact same model.
A quick brief on what I have and how much. August 2013- 1996 Nissan Micra Brought with 73k miles and now on 114k cost, £370 August 2016- 1996 Daewoo Nexia Brought with just 27k Miles. Now on 37k miles. Cost to buy £450 And March 2019- 1995 Hyundai Lantra Brought with 88k miles Now on 89k miles Cost to buy Just £200 And I still have all 3 cars. The best most part purchase price all 3 together- £1020 The Hyundai is the last remaining One on the roads of the UK in Deep Aqua dating 1995 Daewoo is a Rare Auto and The Micra well I had enough of public transport and having passed my test for well over 2 years at the time I decided that was the time. Yes most cars that cheap are a Gamble, but when you get to know them, I become very smug indeed. I pass well much newer stuff all the time that has broken down costing proberly getting on for about 50 times more than what I am driving. Yet mine still does what it was made to do! You can't do better than that bangernomics wise 👍🏻
I paid £700 for my 1984 Volvo 340DL nearly 3 years ago. It had the same lady owner for 30 years and always garaged. In my ownership I did a bit of work on the car just to tidy it up as I am a perfectionist. I doubt you could get a solid reliable well built car for any less regardless of age.
1100HondaCB - old Volvos are the ultimate 'bangernomics' cars. I paid £500 for a 1982 244 DL that was destined for the scrappy with only 72k (which as you will know is barely run in for one of these). Bodywork is tatty in a couple of places, but solid underneath, they're easy cars to work on anyway but mine is the base model DL so has even less to go wrong. Cheap insurance and lots of road presence still - you get much more positive attention in a 40yo banger than a new Audi or Merc (which thanks to leasing are ten-a-penny nowadays).
I have had 17 car's in 1 year using the same principle buy it cheap and try not to spend the value on it. You will spend money on services. I have managed to have some great car's for very little money not everyone is good tho. I have been caught out bought a few looked great but where really just heaps on wheels.
No I'm glad you learned your lesson about range rover...I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, probably feel like bashing them with one. Consistently comes in at being one of least reliable, cash eaters out there..
Buy a new car @ £20,000 and then drive it away from the dealers forecourt? The cars value has depreciated to £16,000, £4000 VAT to the government purse. So just within a short drive the buyer waves goodbye to £4000, and thats without mentioning the new car to 2nd hand car depreciation. Just imagine what that £4000 the buyer waved goodbye to could have bought them ? I.e. as seen advertised ( A 2011 BMW 120d 48000 miles with full service history and mint £4000) or ( landrover discovery 3 hse 2008 2.7 diesel tdv6 89,000 fully serviced miles and mint £3800)
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Damn right. If you're new to this go Japanese 15 years old and pay £700. ($900).
After a few entry level drugs like changing bulbs and speakers you'll be hooked, then you'll fall in love with the savings.
If you're worried about what others think about you, wear socks with sandals and your life is cleansed of shallow people.
Within a decade you'll be cruising around in modern luxury classics intimate with every nut, wire and oily bit.
If you're buying at the 'bottom end' learn that Make & Model's issues with a quick google...and check its MOT record online I've done 75k in my £500 1995 Pug since 2011, it still averages 47mpg despite being a quarter million miler and repair costs are measured in double, not triple, figures. I hope to still have it another 7 years!
I bought a new Honda Accord in December of 1990, still driving it, although in the next 50,000 miles if the transmission doesn't quit I have to make the decision whether or not to put another cam belt in it. On the bright side every time I fill up the gas tank I figure I've almost doubled the value of my car
If you don't make a Commitment to a car it is only a matter of time before it packs its bags and leaves you, probably at the side of the road. I've only had one new car, a 2008 Volvo C30, which was great, but in 2010 I sold it and bought a £400 S70. I maintained it meticulously and every fault or niggle was repaired promptly so the car was almost perfect. At Christmas last year the engine blew without warning, a rarity in an old Volvo. I sourced a new engine in Wales and had arranged to go there and collect it, but because I was so far from home and my tools I abandoned the idea and ended up scrapping a near perfect car. To this day I feel that I let it down rather than it - me, it was like an old friend and I dropped my side of the deal and lost an old friend. I now have a Rover 75 (I know!) but it's getting the same treatment and like the Volvo which never broke down in the 8 years/80000 miles I owned it, the Rover is maintained, niggles and faults corrected promptly, and in 10 months it has run flawlessly. There is no reason why an old banger can't be as reliable as a New Car. My success in this field is testament to that.
Its's not that rare for an old Volvo to blow its engine. I see plenty of them for sale needing head gaskets. They aren't the reliable cars they used to be.
5 years later, still owning old bangers. Good stuff
As you say - you've got to service these old cars. oil is the best mechanic!
+hoffwell Indeed! Oil is cheaper than a new engine, or a new entire car.
Couldn't agree more , the oil is the blood of the engine, you can never change it too much, always use flush..
Not so sure about using flush. If you change your oil regularly enough you shouldn't need it.
Wife’s SMax 2l Diesel has now covered 211000 miles and has original engine, gearbox, clutch, DMF, PDF, EGR, Turbo etc. I personally drove it for 110000 miles a few years ago. It has simply been serviced every 12500 miles and that’s the most important aspect of running a car to a high mileage, make sure you service it.
I've got a 1.9tdi audi a4 estate, Y reg, paid £600, 374,000 miles, doesn't miss a beat. I change oil and filter religiously every 5000 miles. Bodywork isn't 100% but I reckon mechanically it's good for another 100k
I'd hoped this was about the delightful SAAB 9000 in the thumbnail pic 😒
What went wrong???
So 4 years after this was posted, and Ian still isn't an electric car owner. He still buys "odd" cars like a Kitten or an Invacar. Which makes for great viewing for us. Thank you Ian.
My first car I ever bought was a 1986 D reg Datsun (or was it Nissan) Sunny 1.3, back in 2000, for £495. I kept up with the servicing using cheap parts from Halfords and the like, and the car ran for years without any grief.
Great video. Where’s it now?!
I've bought a 1992 Nissan Pintara as my first car for $2,500 AUD. It mostly went well despite a few simple and near catastrophic mechanical problems but there were repaired. I needed to replace my car though and sold the car for $1,100 with a roadworthy certificate included.
Later when I checked the registration online, the registration for the car was cancelled around three years ago. It had traveled around 208,000 kilometres.
God, these vlogs were great.
whilst I understand your concern I think you will find that in the future all the 2nd hand cars full of black boxes will be as easily maintained by mechanics who understand them - instead of wielding a spanner it will be a laptop - more likely a mobile phone - and will be able to download programmes to fix stuff from Venezuela or Buxton - if a car has a fan base or someone wants one badly enough there will be money in it and your local garage will fix it
Im looking for a fairly low priced Toyota Corolla as a daily. The last generation model before the Auris. I don't go for the first one when i see when looking for cars. I do my research and checks.
Apparently, I have always been a Bangernomicer & have owned a series of Bangers over the years and never ever had a new car. I currently have a 11 y.o. Mazda 6 station wagon (estate to you lot). Found it advertised "as is" for $1800 CAD and paid for a stem to stern brake job. Got the thing licensed and road worthy for under $3500 CAD. I just love the old thing and can't imaging what else I would drive even if I won the lottery. Cheers. (My trouble is knowing when to let go, even though I am always trolling the want ads for bangers. I think its a sickness)
I had the cam belt changed on my Citroen C2 which included a new water pump and idler for £208 and when the old cam belt came off even though it was 10 year old the old the old belt still looked really good but better safe than sorry.
Really informative, thank you.
My idea of bangernomics is to buy a car that has been replaced by a new model.
Had ZX which I got for €750 and drove it all over western Europe.
Then I got a €2000 406, quite an upgrade and also pretty reliable.
Now I am on a my third car a C5 V6, yet another upgrade and nice cruiser. Bought it for €2650 with a service from a Citroën specialist I knew.
No real issues as long buy a good car to begin with.
My limit is about €3000 and this exactly how I figured a bigger car is cheaper to buy than a small car. Yes a bit more running costs but then you get some comfort and joy out of it as well.
A lot to be said for comfort and joy. Said the Lexus LS400 owner. Instead of depreciation, I'm paying for petrol for a V8 instead. Much more fun!
At the pump maybe a V6 is more fun but when you actually parted with your money the V8 wins hands down :)
Some good points made there, If I'm interested in buying a car that has a timing belt regardless of how much I'm paying for it £100 or a grand, the first question I ask is when the belt was last replaced.
Cos if it's due...then it's no longer a cheap buy.
+William Cherrington Exactly! Had the cambelt done on my Lexus just after I bought it. Not cheap, but I know it's done.
Bangernomics?! What a brilliant word!
Completely agree with you. Just because a car is old & worth almost nothing, doesn't mean you shouldn't look after it. I've got a 2003 TDi Seat Leon that I've happily run for 12 years. It's 90s technology and hopefully it'll keep going for a few more years. Like you I don't like the electronics in more modern cars, I think it may be the end of easy Bangernomics.
Problem is you can't find a mechanic to work on an older car. Most mechanics won't touch them.
Ahhhhh my dear chap, you've mentioned that swearword - cambelts! Second only to those modern-day swearwords - diagnotic lights! Subscribed to your channel today and absolutely adoring your contributions. Ex-Merc (W123) lover here that, 3 years ago, bought a Jag X-type (JagDeo?) As a runaround for a month. Previous was 1 lady owner yet 3 years down the line, I have a gorgeous car that despite being 16 yeaes old, is absolutely mint - and drives like a dream. Not quite the 1982 mint 2.8 Granada Ghia, 1986 Datsun Laurel or 1975 Skoda 110R I'd adore but, unlike today's automatons, I won't be seduced into buying a piece of characterless pap that's been popped out of a jelly-mould! I wish you well dear chap in your quest for Automobile Utopia!!!!
Passat B5 Estate. 2002. 55k miles so far (up to 155k total), bombproof and a brilliant banger. Ford Fusion, local car, low miles, knackered lcutch! that has done me 30k miles for £500. Both those cars return 50+mpg
I've been lucky with the 2 cheap cars I've had, my Focus which cost £490 has proved to be very dependable and the £250 Matiz was a nice little car, the Matiz was sold on to another AS member, sadly though a few months later got scrapped due to needing a lot spending for the MOT
I've had nearly 50 cars since I passed my test at 18, 14 years ago. Nearly all of them 'bangers'. I now have a new car every 3 years, but, I still look at 'bangers' and long for their simplicity. Getting to know each cars quirks.
Wow that's pretty astonshing. What are your favourite bangers?
Pratting about on the net this morning as us petrolheads do and I went and got an insurance quote for the Nippa, cheap as chips and I also did a car check on it and OMG it passed its test yesterday and needed sod all to get it though. I need that Nippa in my life lol
Actually, it failed on a brake pipe and dodgy tyre the day before...
@@HubNut Yeah I saw that,my motto with older cars is if the MOT is going to cost less than £500 then pay it because you know that car. Binning it and buying another is only a recipe for buying someone else's trouble.
Ive had the same approach the last few years since cars have become more complicate with the electronic systems etc. The old bmw and volvo i have now tho i think ill hang onto as i dont know what id replace them with that id like and be confident to work on.
Now my car wasn't intended to be a banger (though it may appear to be to the untrained eye) but my E30 325i cost me £1000 which I thought was a bargain, and over the next 12 months it cost me about £2000, and now a year into ownership there is another £2000 of work on the horizon... Your Range Rover anecdote reminded me of this fact!
I will NOT let the bastard thing die though.
+Acme Good work! That's the spirit.
At least your e30's going up in value, especially if it's a 2 door! If you're spending that sort of money on it then it must be coming great. M20 in 2.5 is in my experience a superb engine, 800 rpm in 5th gear then at 4000 rpm woosh! Owned e30's for 18+ years and am waiting to build M20 into a 2.7 to go in my e30's touring.
I bought a brand new E30 325I in May 1986, and collected it from the factory in Munich. At home, about a month later, I found the extra option ( M-Technic ? ) rear shockers had collapsed. Totally gobsmacked. Today my transport is a 2002 Golf TDI 100 SE .... cruise, climate control... Cost £395 with 8 months MOT on eBay. 220,000 miles, mostly motorway with the owner of last 8 years. All service records. Owner lived on a farm, and car was photographed absolutely filthy, and some minor road scuffle on a rear wheel arch. Temperamental central locking is an annoyance. First thing I did was new oil, and all filters. Has never missed a beat over the 9 months I've owned it.
My cheapest car was a 2004 2.0HDi Peugeot Partner at £120! Ran it for a few months until someone rear ended me and I was paid £1200 for it from the insurer!
I also had a 1998 Saxo that was the top spec and absolutely original even down to the wheel trims, it looked and acted factory fresh and cost £180. Only sold it when I part exchanged for a much newer car (which cost me over £2K in repairs over a year!)
Here in the USA, you can't find cheap cars unless you are VERY lucky (like they misspelled the car's model in the advert). Most cheap cars that you find have extremely high mileages, have major dents or rust, have serious engine or transmission problems, failed the emissions test, someone has taken them apart and not put them together again, or they just got hit in the front or rear. Any decent inexpensive car that come up for sale is gone in one day, snapped up by the dealers or flippers..
Im 51 most ive ever spent on a car was £2800 for my Mk2 1600e 4 years ago, day driver is a 2009 focus tdci for £700 cheap insurance £30 a year tax ( the main reason I bought it) , I knew it had issues as went into limp home mode so took a chance bought it, stuck my reader on it and it needed the dpf cleaned, once that was jet washed all has been good so far.
Way too many electronic devices in cars now but some basic common sense and sites like this and you can get there on a budget.
Wonder what you'll be driving in 5 years time? I bet you never thought it would be an Invacar and Foxanne?
Watching now and hearing you say 'I'm a little concerned about what I'll be buying in five years time'- now we know! A GSA that's painful to drive, a Mitsibishi Delica that dosent seem to stop, and a broken Yugo Sana. Still lovely old cars nonetheless, so maybe nothing to be concerned about!
hi Ian, i think you should bring back the bangernomics topic again, considering our current day and age made banger econoboxes more sensible to own than ever, but mainly because i couldn't hear you with the car humming about, maybe you should talk about it in a more silent car 😅
Funnily enough, I recorded a blog on this topic just the other day...
As a Malaysian, I’m proud that you have a Perodua haha
You might want to check out my Proton videos then! Though sadly I've sold that one. We still own the Perodua.
I have owned 8 cars in my motoring life. And the latest one was the first to cost more than £1k. I'm finding it harder to seek out bargains. I wonder if the online car sites ebay/autotrader have made it so easy to gauge a cars value - that it is harder to find a true bargain.
+buckleyboyben Hard to find a bargain on Ebay or Auto Trader. Gumtree and Facebook groups seem good places to hunt, but you'll have to wade through a lot of rubbish. There are still bargains around, and lower scrap values mean if anything, there are even more bargains to be had.
+HubNut The bargains are still there. Got an 02 reg 206 estate off ebay a couple of months ago for £300. Looking at the market I think it's actually worth £600-£700, but got lucky as no one wanted that particular car at that particular time. Boot lid doesn't open and interior is tatty, other than that fine. All the electrics work and mechanically sound.
How do you factor insurance costs in to the bangernomics theory? I love the idea of bangernomics and I’d have a different car regularly, but switching insurance around regularly seems to get expensive, especially if you have a small fleet!
Fleet policies are a thing, and you can often mix it up with classics and moderns. Sadly, some classic insurers have started to get very sniffy about covering some 20-30 year old cars since this video was made, but without business cover, I was usually paying £200-300 per year to cover four cars.
HubNut Thanks for the reply. It might be worth me looking in to fleet insurance again. I remember looking a few years back and it being an astronomical amount! Are there any companies you’d recommend?
Peter S Taylor or Peter James. You'll need at least one classic.
@@HubNut Ah but you do live in rural Wales. What if you lived in Blackburn? :-(
This is so right. I buy older lower mileage cars (usually from older people) and run them until the cost of repair is not worth paying out, at which point they go to the breakers. Sometimes I get 5 years out of them, sometimes less, but never less than 2 years. Never paid more than £750 and do all my own servicing and any repairs that don't require a workshop/specialised tools. I don't want everyone to tumble to this way of doing things, mind. The source of bargain bangers will dry up if everyone starts being sensible...
Just prior to 2001 is the 'sweet spot'. Not as much sensor crap and plastic 'ginge' knocking about in the engine bay. Manufacturers only put that shite in to increase main steeler profits on labour. Year 2000 E46 for eleven hundred notes, 7 years and 120k miles ago, and all it's needed is a drink and a spring. Best car I've ever had.... and ever will
My bangernomics work as follows; Buy a cheap car, fix the absolute essential, drive it for 1000-2000km, see what breaks and whether it's worth fixing. If so, fix it and give it proper maintenance. That way you know what you've bought before you stick a lot of money into it. Works pretty well.
As for the buying; Cambelt, tires, rot, mot. That's the four big things. You can bet on the MOT but I prefer buying one that's not older than half a year.
Being fussy isn't an issue, people who put up an advertisement for a 500 pound car understand that you don't want to spend another 500 right after, unless the car is worth at least 1500 ;).
You buying cars before the value goes up; Elly!
It is true that I paid £450 for Elly when I bought her 18 years ago. However, I've sunk many thousands of pounds into her since! She's my one exception to the rule. Generally, I buy cheap, hurl money at a car, then sell it at a loss because I'm bored...
True that, but these days you buy a 2cv for thousands of pounds and still need to put thousands in one. I'm not sure what it's like in the UK, but here a good 2cv would set you back 7-8000 pounds for a very un-rare 80's one.
£5000-6000 should get you a good one here. £8000 should be a minter. I think mine is insured for £6000. Probably about half what I've spent on it over the course of 18 years...
HubNut ouch. That said, it's not a car like the others
How easy are you finding it getting spares for the wee Nippa? I struggled up in Glasgow but would buy another Perodua Nippa
It's gone now, because a coolant pipe rusted through and couldn't be sourced. I have a Daihatsu and it's just as bad!
Hello Ian, thankfully in 2019 there's a huge amount of cheap motors i can get hold of. Let me know if your'e interested i get allsorts of stuff offered ..Simon
Ah ha, the Nippa rides again! :-) I am afraid the old Nippa had to have a new clutch a year or two before my Uncle stopped driving. He was extremely deaf (but he was in his late 90's) and refused to wear hearing aids, unfortunately he burnt the clutch out, he never used to take the car out of gear whilst at juctions or traffic lights and he used to ride the clutch whilst revving the car. My Auntie hated him doing this, but my Uncle seemed oblivious to the fact he did it!!! Ha ha ha!!! I can't remember now if he got John Child's to repair it, or if it was TC's just down the road, but it was a costly repair, and my Uncle wasn't happy!!! Ha ha ha!!!
My grandfather's the same. He's 81 and always just revs the hell out of the car (also deaf and won't wear a hearing aid "because they're for old people" his words, not mine. He also has something wrong with his left leg [which of course does the clutch] (I can't remember the proper term, but something to do with blood circulation), so can't always tell if he's pressing the clutch. Sometimes he'll end up grinding gears, or as you've said just pressing the clutch down as he's driving along without realising. He also won't wear glasses either while driving. He's got a 2004 Peugeot 206 with the 1.4L petrol and 5 speed manual, just over 60,000 miles on the original clutch. I guess Peugeot clutches are more durable compared to Perodua's...
Like your channel Hub Nut .Do you fancy making biscuits together? We could call them Hub Nuts. A cross between Hob Nobs and Ginger Nuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My Nissan Micra has run for 14 years since I bought it for the wife. Just coming up to 100,000 and one minor welding repair and just service items. It’s serviced twice a year and as long as I can keep it running I will! The mechanic who services it told me to keep it until the engine drops out as these cars are very reliable and no cambelt to replace unlike later models apparently also as it’s getting on 16 years old, the scratches and minor dents that it gets in Tesco’s car park, thanks moronic drivers, don’t bother me unduly! Long live cheap motoring, unlike the wife’s Zafira which was a money pit until she wrote it off!
Checking out an old but low mileage car, paying nothing for it, looking after it and getting superb value. I thought it was just me.
Have you found the car ?
Like this Chap, but he,s halfway of becoming the UK,s answer to cousin IT from the Adams Family on this vid.
You must’ve saved a packet over the years😀👍
Best cheap car is the Mitsubishi colt, i paid £600 for it with 93000 on the clock , 1 year on its done 107000 miles and not had to change or replace anything , the best thing is it has a timing chain so as long as oil is changed regularly it should hopefully get to 200 thousand miles
surely the xm is more comfortable (and better spec'ed) than the Perodua and certainly quieter or so it appears in the video! only £375 but what would you buy for £1500/£2000?
+bill coniston Oh yes. The tyre noise in the Perodua is hilarously loud. Two things stop me spending £1500-2000. 1) I don't have £1500-2000. 2) What if something went wrong after I'd spend £1500? The XM doesn't owe me very much - even after a year of motoring. If it was scrap tomorrow, I wouldn't feel hard done by. £1500 though? I'd then feel duty bound to spend even more if something major broke, and the car would keep on depreciating too. £1500-3000 is the most dangerous amount to spend buying a car I reckon. Either spend a lot more, or a lot less.
+HubNut yes I guess at £375 as long as you get a few months motoring your in profit and if anything major its scrap, just having a quick look on gumtree and there are a surprising amount of cars sub £500 too, anyhow thanks for videos! ps still love the XM!
+HubNut I agree with this. As discussed above I spent £1700 on a Ford Fusion, first car over £1000 in 15 years of driving. When it needed - front suspension strut rebuild, new wheel bearing, brake cylinder after first couple of thousand miles I went ahead and did it, knowing full well that I was paying the previous owners neglected maintenance costs :-(. It has been an expensive mistake, only saved by the mileage payments I get from my job.
That's the danger when paying a four-figure sum. If major work is needed, you feel to have to spend to protect that initial investment. In theory, it's cheaper to buy cheap and then (if you like the car) spend on its upkeep. Doesn't always work mind you!
Maybe I'll lease a Sandero Access next time instead!
I can't find your video about the scrappage scheme :(
Not sure I ever did one, but I wrote about it a lot at the time (Classic Car Weekly).
Trouble is your average car driver cant tell a spark plug from a brake pad, they can hardly be expected to know how to pick up a decent cheap car. One girl I know wrote off at least 3, if not 4, cars simply because she never checked the oil and water.
I like bangernomics
Just recently bought a 2004 seat Leon 1.6 petrol for £400, 155k cambelt done at 139k 2 years ago. Good bangernomics?
Sounds good to me. A diesel would probably be more expensive, and have covered more miles.
"... you do have to wade through a sea of crap.... ". Sums things up rather well.
I like cheap cars, but also like reliable cars, so compromising on maintenance just isn't an option for me. I am currently on my third Citroën Xantia Estate which is also the nicest of the ones I've owned, and it is also a pretty rare car now here in Denmark, even though there were huge amounts of them back in the 90's and early 2000's. So even though It was ridiculously cheap, I take very good care of it and enjoy every time I drive it 😃
Exactly! That's my idea of perfect Bangernomics. It isn't just 'buy cheap, throw away.' I spend far more maintaining my old crocks than they are worth. I have to rely on my cars for work.
Same here :-)
By the way, like your videos - the first one I stumbled across was your BX TRD Break video. I had one of those as well, but that unfortunately was already driven to the ground. Good fun, but too unreliable :-)
I bought a Skoda Favourit LXiE for £110 a while back. I bet they're worth a little bit now.
Yes, I much regret not buying a Favorit while they were dirt cheap. They can still be picked up for under a grand, and I would seriously like one.
I think the only time I've ever really gone wrong in buying an old car was when I helped a friend buy a Suzuki Kizashi a couple of years back. They'd just pulled from the North American market and had a decent reliability score. So, I figured he could get a fine, just off lease model and have a decent time with it. Well, low and behold, the dolt didn't know how to shift a manual gearbox on anything other than smooth, uncluttered surface roads near the dealership and the clutch blew. I got the blame and the dealer had to eat a clutch replacement after he practically nuked the place with his mouth. (btw: not a friend anymore and I do feel sorry for the car)
Wow. Recommending a Kizashi definitely makes you pure HubNut!
@@HubNut Hehe, it was cheap, it was low on the radar and came with what felt like ten pounds of servicing coupons. I feel at home, being a HubNutter. ;)
My Bangernomics are like yours and I have the same issue wondering what on earth I'll drive next because car makers insist on making cars that are oinly serviceable with special tools etc and that use computers etc.
I've come to the decision that - even though I did like to enjoy my cars - I know only want/need the cheapest but half decent set of wheels that will do the job. Nothing smaller than 1.6 litre and nothing bigger than 2.5 litres with lots of space and practicality. Mass produced so parts are cheap.
I think : Vauxhaul Zafira - 1.8 // Cheap Versatile and surprisingly tough - I've seen some go for 400k miles with minimum servicing!
Team33 actually i don't think it'll be that hard, mostly down to reading fault codes, which can be done with a rudimentary piece of kit. Most settings are fixed for life anyway. And if all else fails warning lights can be fixed by removing the bulb.
As above, its not that hard to do diagnostics yourself, and if you buy the right make, you can get diagnostics for that specific car very cheap. I have a Fiat Multipla (btw, it is also cheap, versatile, surprisingly tough and good to drive, in italy the taxi drivers are still using them I believe, and much more character than a zafira, AND has drives really well, I would say as good as my Avantime), you can buy a diagnostic lead off ebay for around £10 and download MultiECUscan for FREE (legally) which will allow you to see/do what a garage does on the laptop, rather than just having the generic codes. I believe VW group have something called VAGcom which is similarly cheap on ebay. But, like i said, check before you buy, if you want the similar equivalent for renault you will be looking at over £100 for a chinese knockoff, plus the investment in a laptop running XP as doesnt work on newer ones. That being said, ive just sold my 2002 fiesta because it suffered what i believe to be a computer failure (guy who bought it reckoned the turbo), however, a computer is just another part and on the whole can be bought salvage just like everything else. I sold the fiesta because it needed other work doing, and really i want to spend the time maintaining the avantime and multipla and have an economical and reliable car for commuting.
I'm so intrigued by the idea and have been watching for years, but I'm seeing a huge interest in prices and a major decline in the care give towards used cars. Example, $1500usd for a xc70 ocean race with a slipping transmission, loads of dents and damage, unknown cam belt status.
Yeah, a lot has changed since I filmed this! Especially in the past few years. Car values have gone daft.
On the cam belt thing - surely if you saw a car for £500, you're buying on condition but prepared to do the essential servicing. I don't have as much experience as yourself but I have bought cars because of low ownership and condition and largely ignored age to get a relative bargain. Most buyers seem obsessed with what number plate it is - even if it is quite badly looked after... and even if the minter is only 2 years older - they reject it for the newer car with 3000 miles less, £1000 more expensive and often even the exact same model.
Yes, condition is the only thing to judge a car on really. Mileage and age are irrelevant.
I believe in recycling. Keep the old ones on the road as long as possible
I believe this too. Unfortunately the government punish us via road tax.
A quick brief on what I have and how much.
August 2013- 1996 Nissan Micra Brought with 73k miles and now on 114k cost, £370
August 2016- 1996 Daewoo Nexia Brought with just 27k Miles. Now on 37k miles. Cost to buy £450
And March 2019- 1995 Hyundai Lantra Brought with 88k miles
Now on 89k miles Cost to buy Just £200
And I still have all 3 cars. The best most part purchase price all 3 together- £1020
The Hyundai is the last remaining One on the roads of the UK in Deep Aqua dating 1995
Daewoo is a Rare Auto and The Micra well I had enough of public transport and having passed my test for well over 2 years at the time I decided that was the time.
Yes most cars that cheap are a Gamble, but when you get to know them, I become very smug indeed. I pass well much newer stuff all the time that has broken down costing proberly getting on for about 50 times more than what I am driving. Yet mine still does what it was made to do! You can't do better than that bangernomics wise 👍🏻
I paid £700 for my 1984 Volvo 340DL nearly 3 years ago. It had the same lady owner for 30 years and always garaged. In my ownership I did a bit of work on the car just to tidy it up as I am a perfectionist. I doubt you could get a solid reliable well built car for any less regardless of age.
1100HondaCB - old Volvos are the ultimate 'bangernomics' cars. I paid £500 for a 1982 244 DL that was destined for the scrappy with only 72k (which as you will know is barely run in for one of these). Bodywork is tatty in a couple of places, but solid underneath, they're easy cars to work on anyway but mine is the base model DL so has even less to go wrong. Cheap insurance and lots of road presence still - you get much more positive attention in a 40yo banger than a new Audi or Merc (which thanks to leasing are ten-a-penny nowadays).
I have had 17 car's in 1 year using the same principle buy it cheap and try not to spend the value on it. You will spend money on services. I have managed to have some great car's for very little money not everyone is good tho. I have been caught out bought a few looked great but where really just heaps on wheels.
2:03 Except if it's a Toyota - just put a new cambelt on and you are good to go... believe me.
Very much depends on the engine. Some are interference and some are not.
@@HubNut Yup.. most are non-interference.
No I'm glad you learned your lesson about range rover...I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, probably feel like bashing them with one. Consistently comes in at being one of least reliable, cash eaters out there..
But, it was bloody awesome off road. Incredibly comfortable even when bouncing over rocky greenlanes.
Buy a new car @ £20,000 and then drive it away from the dealers forecourt? The cars value has depreciated to £16,000, £4000 VAT to the government purse. So just within a short drive the buyer waves goodbye to £4000, and thats without mentioning the new car to 2nd hand car depreciation. Just imagine what that £4000 the buyer waved goodbye to could have bought them ? I.e. as seen advertised ( A 2011 BMW 120d 48000 miles with full service history and mint £4000) or ( landrover discovery 3 hse 2008 2.7 diesel tdv6 89,000 fully serviced miles and mint £3800)
Something often overlooked with Electric Cars is what happens if they catch fire! - You cannot use Water!
To be fair, water on oil fires isn't a good idea either...
This is the car jeremy clarkson smashed to bits with a sledgehammer, tbh i dont blame him, theyre bloody awful.
+Synthematix No, that was a Kenari and Clarkson is an idiot.
@@HubNut the three of them are dicks.
I thought you english pilgrims took your bangers on
a bun with mustard?