1998-2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 wheel bearing replacement
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This job also needs to be done to remove the wheel seal in the hub for the lockouts to work properly, if it is worn bad, and your four wheel drive does not work. These bearings have ABS.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
85 foot-pounds torque on the wheel bearing bolts, 5 on all the little bolts holding the axle shield and the brake rotor shield, 85 on the brake mount, 22-26 on the caliper guide bolts,
I will pin this. Thanks!
This is the only video I could find on UA-cam that showed the removal and reinstallation of that weird 4wd center hub. I had to remove the hub assembly to replace my lower arm ball joint. When I saw that weird plastic cap with the screen and those gears inside where the center hub bolt should be I was like wtf lol. Thanks so much man! Super helpful.
I’m doing the same thing 😂
I had to do all that ten years ago when there was no video in existence! It sucked so bad.
I am a professional, ASE master. I watched your video to get familiar with the job before I took it apart. Your video was great! Entertaining and VERY helpful. Thanks
I was a professional, ASE advanced master, master... Then I fired myself. Thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto 🤣🙃
@@RustBeltAutoFacts 💯😂..this is why I hate the Ford
I loved listening to this guy. His little comments are funny,and nothing but the truth.
Dude! I saw this video and thought "Holy Crap, it's the man that lives in my head!".
Lol...
Thanks for the video, sounds like you really really like Ford Rangers.
The best and most entertaining repair video I've ever seen!
I have the same system on my 2000. That pos hub is a vacuum pulse so it pulses to lock and pulses again to unlock. But good luck finding one when yours breaks. Not even junk yards had one. I had to switch to manual locking hubs but did it ten years ago before any video existed. Now my bearing is noisy and I was happy to find this vid just to see if the parts in mine were all there. It was such a frustrating job!!! Especially if you watch other vids that say for 95-2013 or whatever but they don't have the vacuum pulse pos system.
The vacuum 4x4 system is fine,it's people who neglect their stuff that gives it a bad rep
Paint on the original parts would have solved most of the problems. I have yet to see one of the vacuum tubes on the spindle that is not almost completely rusted through.
It's junk. You can maintain it all you want, manual hubs are always better. I replaced mine on my used ranger, but the don't hold to aftermarket hubs too tight. New ideas aren't always better over tried and true
@@tompaul2591 How do you bypass the solenoid valve after putting the manual hubs. I assume that if you unplug the solenoid rhe GEM won't detect it and throw a code.
@@darkcoeficient I didn't do anything. No check engine light either. I may be wrong but I don't think it is that "smart" of a system.
Commentary notwithstanding, I learned a lot from this. Thanks!
Thanks, your video helped us get the stupid job done...and kept us laughing so we didn't cry too much 😂
So if I understand correctly, you do not care much for this design? 🤣 thanks for the tutorial, it was educational and most of all entertaining.
When you get ready to put it back together, and you have the orange/white plastic ass piece out to hold the axle in place, install the spring clip onto the white plastic orange plastic assembly first. Outside of the vehicle. Then take your snap ring pliers put them in the two holes of the white plastic snap ring plastic assembly give it a squeeze slide it over the axle and down and into place. It’s a 30 second job and you’re done and you know it is in place. His attitude is screwing him up. He’s not quite thinking the whole thing through.
The results are the same. You just went about it a different way. Thanks!
Excellent video broski!👍🏽all the extra info I have helps a lot and very detailed.mug appreciated and keep up the good work
I am replacing my passenger front wheel bearing and decided to look up this video since I was having a little trouble. I forgot about the clip behind the spiral clip. I was wondering why it was not coming apart lol.
But yes, the four-wheel-drive system vacuum seal set up is garbage.
I’m still the original owner of this truck that I purchased in 1999 when I was 17 years old I switched it over to manual locking hubs which was real simple back in probably 2005. I like your video and terminologies lol stupid set up. Have a great day.
This is such an under viewed channel. Thanks for the videos!
I'm actually really surprised this channel is doing this well @ 1.5 million views in about 1 3/4 years. Less than 100,000 are from subscribers. I'm still new to this. It keeps slowly growing. Cannot see how that could be considered under viewed. Most people need subscribers just to get people to watch anything at all. I still don't even know what to expect to happen from doing this stuff on here my way. Not what you would call a famous, popularity kind of person. I'm just helping a brother out for a little gratuity. Thank's for watching!
I'm just saying I see videos that are not even half as good as yours with thousands of views. You make good videos, so the views will come soon.
@@RustBeltAuto Dude keep grinding, you'll make it. The cross over, at least from what I've seen from my buddies that have "made it" on YT seems to start at (or around) the 5K subs mark. I bet you'll be at 5K subs, easily by the end of this year! Your auto channel is one of the best I've even seen. Down to earth, great commentary and good comedy as well! But keep doing you...
Guessing Duh Woke Crowd at YT/Google are "throttling" him for the non-PC commentary... even though that's where many of the chuckles come from... ;')
I liked the commentary!
Very good video! Not many out there for the Vacuum type of hubs!
It was a bad idea, that will hopefully no longer be replicated.
@@RustBeltAuto It's not the klugey vacuum system I mind, so much as the WEAK manner in which the lockers grip a SHALLOW groove on the hubs with those 6 pairs of plastic "fingers"...
I don't know if the" Ford Better Idea" 's were patented or what, just glad no one copied them!
Spiral retainer tip: assemble it at the tip of the axle shaft first, then side it back into place.
I usually put the spiral lock around the nylon c clip first then slide the clip on with it all together. Lot easier. They can be a pain in the ass. Great vid btw
Thanks. You like then less when they use them for pistons.
Im replacing the hub bearing and my cv axle. Im not sure which one to start with first? Thanks for any advice. Your videos are awesome.
I watched this video after the install strictly for the commentary 😂
Oh some how they changed to manual lockouts on my 99 ranger , bought it that way
I’ve got a 98 4x4, bought used , no real rust issues but treated with PB blaster? penetrating spray, has manual hubs. But I need to replace the disk brake rotors, not looking forward to that, then the rear.
I did one side like you described, then did the other side after finding the directions (my son opened the package and I didn't know it came any). If you would have read the directions, the snap ring goes on really easy as one piece using the special tool. My special tool was a piece of pipe with a close diameter as the snap ring. Took maybe 30 seconds. Way, way easier than your method.
Okay. Thanks!
What tool? The bearings I got did not include any special tool.
I get the idea now that you mention it, but i am very unhappy this tool was not included with the new bearings. I guess the spiral retainer screws onto the nylon circlip. That is what I did using the picks as in the video once i saw the shape of the ends of the spiral retainer. Seems it is there to keep the nylon circlip from spreading. Why didn't Ford just use a steel circlip like the rest of the civilized world?
Very good.
Great vid, saves me a lot of damage and wasted time. ;') Also great FYI @6:45 about Duh Ford Power Steering pump, and manipulating the front end with engine off. All Ford owners secretly want to retro-fit a GM Saginaw PS pump... and some actually DO!... (I just can't find the Saginaws any more... at anything less than *3 times normal price* ... some of the "racing" parts websites are selling _I am NOT making this up_ *chrome plated* Saginaw Power Steering Pumps for OVER $230!!... =:O
You're hilarious 😆 Thanks for the video man
Boy I dont envy all you who live in those "Rust Belt" regions, here in eastern Washington we see our fair share of snow and ice in the winter, but they dont use salt on the roads. I have a '01 Ranger and it doesn't have any rust issues what so ever.
he said Gay Ranger .... that brings us back to the 80's ... love it
great video!
BUT!
when it to comes to that stupid metal spiral lock that has to be placed over the face of that plastic lock, there IS a better way.
Put the metal spiral lock over the plastic front lip on first and push the whole thing back at once with a screwdriver, youll feel the whole thing seat, itll be snug pushing it on but it works, and youll know for sure its on there right.
Ive done it.
I love the video, I did everything right BUT my axle seems to be loose onto the wheel bearing. From what I was looking at, the axle did not have grooves for the snap rings. So I'm wondering if the dust ring holds the cv axle in place to the wheel bearing?
I don't know. Sounds wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto I mean I have the same set up and idk if the axle came with retaining clips to have it set with the wheel bearing
@@tjsr.6053 those clips don't come with anything. There should be a groove in your axle for the clip.
@@RustBeltAuto oh ok because when I pull the axle towards the motor, it comes apart from the wheel bearing like it's not seating
do y'all know where I can buy one of those "orange" clips from the video? I need two to finish my job because I only have the C-clips. They work instead of the spiral thing but don't quite fill up the whole groove. Both my axles are wiggling around !@@RustBeltAuto
I need to Replace my 99 Rangers 4wd, Front Wheel bearing assembly , (bearings shot)
Q. To use “Manual lockouts “
Is it and Different wheel bearing hub Assm. Or is it the same PVH wheel bearing hub ,that i buy? shits got me confused . Pryer Owner put manual lockouts on truck
But im tryn to learn What wheel bearing hub is used , before i would order new ones .
Great Video /Helpful
If you look, there should be a groove in the hub that the manual lockout snaps into.
@@RustBeltAuto their is that grove bc lockout pop off ytdy when i was removing tire , tho im tryn to find out What replacement Wheel bearing Hubs are used , is their a Dif one used for manu lockout or is the stock PVH used
@@terrycarlin2443 pretty sure it's the same. Take it out, and find out.
I am in the middle of this now waiting on the part. I replaced the stupid vacuum hubs with manuals but the don't stay on the hub so I used thin duct tape to hold them on. Unreal. They fall out when free, so I keep them locked. Have to keep the center caps on. Bad design all the way around.
I also can't believe they don't supply a new plastic lock ring for the hub? Unreal again. I had a 97 F250hd 7.3 that had similar spiral locks. What a horrible design.
At least you don't have to deal with the Dana 35 front end like the 1994 4x4 model has. Good stuff. Just the right amount of sarcasm and disgust with design engineers.
That stupid orange snap ring made me lose my shit. Thought I was the only one that had trouble getting it out
Why happens if you can get them unlocked
Does anyone know the name of the seal mentioned at 11.44 ish I'm pretty sure i need to replace it
Thank you for the help and I like you talking shit! I talk shit to my ranger.
I missed were he replaced bearing , all i saw was him repacking it ,
Hi buddy,my 4 wheel hub flew out on the trail due to a loose CV axle,where can I get the spiral locking clip that holds in the CV axle?
You can try the dealer, or take one off a junker. Maybe use a snap ring? The only other time I have seen a spiral lock is on piston pins.
What keeps the axle from wiggling up and down?
Ford logic.
I'm like your buddy "Dick Trickle" I work on rusty old Mitsubishi's.... If you know what I mean, don't worry, I subbed as well old pal.
Nice video man, can you tell me the name of the 2 pieces that holds the shaft? I think is "retaining ring" and the other? I am brazilian, thanks!
Yes retainer ring. They are sold on ebay I see. Don't know what size those spiral locks are though.
The hubs unlock with vacuum also.... if you would have applied vacuum again it would have disengaged the hubs..just an fyi.
Thanks. I thought it was magic or something.
@@RustBeltAuto Yep, it's like a ballpoint pen clicker--push on, push off... that's where the "pulse" part of Pulse Vacuum Hubs comes from... I kinda like the lame things... when they WORK.
@@MajorCaliber You get stuck in the mud or snow, and constantly run on, and off the throttle, gaining, and loosing vacuum, won't this goofy system keep locking, and unlocking the hubs?
@@RustBeltAuto Nope, even though vacuum varies greatly with RPM and engine load, there's a vacuum *reservoir* (tank) underneath the dual windshield/coolant plastic tanks which keeps "the suck" nice and even. But more importantly, "the suck" is not needed or applied constantly, but is applied for just a few seconds to engage Duh Gay Hubs, and a few seconds again to disengage. If you shutoff the engine with switch in 4HI or 4LO, hubs are still engaged--you can jack up the front and verify. If you follow those vacuum lines from the hubs, they lead up to an electrically-actuated vacuum valve underneath the air filter box... this device PULSES out "the suck" when energized by the GEM computer.
Despite the overly-complicated "Rube Goldberg" nature of the PVH system, it's usually the simple *rubber* parts you covered so well (O-rings and hoses) that leave your "Ford Fabri-fuhck-ation" (lmao) with 2WD when you need 4WD... followed closely by corrosion in the position-sensor portion of the electric shift motor that cranks the Transfer Case from 2H-N-4H-4L ... FoMoCo sounds suspiciously like MoFoLo... co-inkee-dink?
@@MajorCaliber thanks!
Where can I find that spiral lock for my truck it broke
I dont know. Maybe ford dealer?
I like how you insult the inanimate objects.
I'm working on one of these genius peices of crap right now
I'm still not clear on how the vacuum/suck-flow gets from the backside of the knuckle/dustshield where the vac hose attaches, past "The Big Dumb Seal", and out to the end of the axle where the hubs are???
The big dumb seal song. Where oh where does all the vacuum suck flow go... Doesn't matter. Ford science. Ford science.
Would I be able to install only the one plastic snap ring because I ruined the metal spiral clip ring and I've been all over 3 counties looking at parts stores for the metal one
You might need to go to dealer, online mail order, or pull one out of a junkyard. I don't know if a regular snap ring will work or not.
Does anyone have the measurements of this spiral ring that is part of the orange retainer? I have a friend who makes them for me. I'm from Brazil and here you can't find this piece
Why dont you measure the orange retainer, and guess?
The ring fell and I only found the spring.
Sorry if the translation is not correct I'm using google translator
Can you swap to manual hubs? Spendy?
You would need to ask a parts store, or someone if they have a lockout kit for these I am not aware of one.
Rust Belt Auto
Roger, thank you
Yep, about $145: therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml
ALSO, you can do a *jury-rigged* conversion of the existing "magic" Ford pulse vacuum hubs, by cutting out that dime-sized center "screen" piece, and pushing the mechanism with one finger--it's like a ball-point pen clicker--one click ON, one more back OFF... however this "conversion" opens that outer axle cavity to a lot of dirt intrusion.
Yep, did it to mine, so much better
Mechanic gold 😂
What are the names or part numbers of the rings?
f87z3b457aa. Is the new thing.
Watched your video about 4 times before I needed to do the job. Now I have a question. I can't remember the last time I've engaged the 4x4. And when I spun the wheel the axel spun. Took off the locker and pressed the spring down. Put it back onto the hub and it was free, just curious why would It still be locked and is there an issue with something else?
The locker is like a ballpoint pen clicker, i.e. stays in whatever the last state was you left it in (or when vacuum failed), vacuum is only applied to change between the 2 states... and, just like the pen, LONG stroke to engage 4WD, short stroke to dis-engage... as you probably noticed from your manual manipulations. Not much can go wrong with the lockers themselves. Easy to disassemble, study, and clean... though in this video someone had previously butchered the latching fingers, so he just got new ones. See my "tools" comment above...
Never get tired of watching this video. Also, I have a question about the play you had in this bearing. Was it where the hub bolts to the knuckle? I changed out one hub earlier this year in June and it failed already, so I'm also not sure what to make of that other than to not buy Masterpro again.
If its master pro, it should have a 1 year warranty. The bearing its self was loose I think.
@@RustBeltAuto yeah it's still warrantied, some friends of mine suggest to replace it with a precision brand part or something else. What would you replace it with?
I've had a pair from Detroit Axle on my '99 Ranger for over 18k miles, no problems, lots of FL rain, little bit of FL salt air, no real off-roading. They sell direct on Epay, less than $50 each, shipped.
I should add that mine are the version withOUT the ABS wire... but in the manner of Marketing Weenies, instead of searching for "without Front ABS", just search for "rear ABS"... not even the word "only", just "rear ABS" will do it... and will narrow your search results WAY down.
I’m having trouble with placing the axle retaining ring. I feel like the axle isn’t going in as far as it should. Any tips!?
Keep the wheel straight, grab the axle, and pull it through the bearing. It should work.
@@RustBeltAuto wheel is straight I had another person pull while I pushed the ring in. It still needs about .2 of a cm. Just doesn’t look like the axle is going in all the way. Do you think it’s the seal on the hub?
@@israelduque1456 I don't know. Something is wrong. There should be a little gap behind that ring.
Fabrafuckation, just submitted to webster. Subscribed
TOOLS for removing the lockers... our humorous mentor was able to use a prybar because a couple of the latching "fingers" were previously broken off... but instead of buying the specialized and exPENSIVE FoMoCo tool designed for removing these lockers (which NONE of the chain parts stores have for rental), the "trick" is to take *6 (old/used) hacksaw blades,* perhaps grind the teeth off if you have a bench grinder handy, then take the end of the blade that gets chucked into the saw, and wedge one into the gap between each of the 6 pairs of "fingers"... now you've got a fan/cone of saw blades, just squeeze the cone a little bit to lift the fingers clear of the groove, and pull back... we're talking maybe 1mm of engagement these fingers have in the groove, that's how weak the design is...
327k on my 99 and just replaced the driver side bearing hub ass, wasn't bad and didn't cuss even once
🍪 well there is your emoji cookie.
327k!... miles or km? Must be the 3.0 w/ manual trans...
Where can I get that snap ring
Maybe the dealer? They should have them.It is a spiral lock, or Spiro lock. Maybe you could measure the shaft, and get one from a piston manufacturer, like je pistons? They use them almost exclusively in piston pins.
Thats how it comes original form factory orange
Someone here said it's orange on the outside, so people don't put it in backwards?
Would a missing spiral lock cause any issues?
Think I’m missing mine when I replaced my wheel bearing and I’ve been having some noise and play in the CV axle.
Think it would cause the axle to move in, and out, and that big dumb seal may now work right.
Rust Belt Auto trying to find a replacement part for it right now, can’t find anything under “spiral lock” any suggestions?
Never mind think I found one, been having noise when I go over bumps and the CV has some play up and down so I’m hoping it’s a simple fix.
@@wa-reviews2794 probably going to need to go to the dealer. The only other time I have seen those is on free floating piston pins.
@@RustBeltAuto you can get replacementsfrom amazon gem ford for $22 each part number F87Z-3B457-AA
Preciso da trava aspiral onde encontrar
can a person buy those round lock pins? Or are they too old to find?
Probably dealer item, or junkyard.
Why don't you put grease in the magic cube?
Because it's magic?
Question about spiral retainer ring : according to the dealership , such part by itself does not exist . I spent an hour at parts counter , we looked at every drawing and diagram and could not find it . Their conclusion was that it's either part of orange retainer ring or part of locking hub . Any thoughts ?
Probably part of the retainer. Have them pull the part, and see if it's in there.
@@RustBeltAuto
Thank you kindly . I will follow up with my findings .
@@RustBeltAuto
Mystery solved . Just got parts delivered and .....spiral ring is a part of orange retainer .
@@RustBeltAuto
Thanks to your video , project was completed in 1 hour 37 minutes including coffee break . C-ring reversible pliers helped to get out that orange plastic retainer intact .
@@BurbSK-bi2wh Thanks for the follow-up... some of those obscure parts have no part-# of their own, and cause much hair-pulling and bad language...
What SIZE/diameter *vacuum/fuel hose* do you need up in there???
Bring a chunk to the parts store
@@RustBeltAuto And the winner is... 3/16'' (5mm) INside DIAmeter... got a deal on the *red silicone* type, cuz it looks "sexy", AND... makes it easy to spot what I've gotten 'round to replacing vs. what needs to be done NEXT weekend...
what’s that seal called by the cv axel?
Front axle axle hub seal, or big dumb seal.
The sexist and bigoted parts aside, the video is awesome for all the pointers needed to do the job. Thanks for the helpful video.
This is a time when people readily assume bad faith in others because of a play on words. A serious life is such a tragedy. Thanks for watching.
@@RustBeltAuto Indeed, when did Duh Easily-Offended start driving (and repairing) Rangers?... used to be a law... or at least an unspoken custom. ;')
@@MajorCaliber You two characters could make a good rabbit hole full of all kinds of shenanigans.
Ay RBA do you have video replacing timing chain in ranger
Kind of. I did a timing cover.
Being a chain, and not a belt, they typically last the life of the engine (at least in the 3.0)... but hey, sheet happens... what happened to yours? 🤔
I'm trying to purchase that spindle seal but can't find it anywhere. Do you know the part number?
417.65005 .... Ebay search 2000 ranger 4wd front wheel seal.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you. Very helpful
Sounds like you really loved this job your job not 🤣 thanks for the tutorial it was explained well good work.
I'm not a vacuum operated 4wd hub lover. It's annoying to think someone made such a thing. Thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto I'm lucky mine is an 02 manual hub model but all the same principles apply yours was the most detailed tutorial on UA-cam thanks From a back yard mechanic in Australia 👍
@@robertross7182 I could only wish I was there, when I'm freezing my arse off in a Minnesota winter! I'm good for the next 4 months.
I have this hub assembly ... I have run it 20 years without difficulty.... your right... its the poorest design ever produced.... You can change those out to a manual turn in hub for about $150.00
That’s what I did on my 99
@@DylanC828 Im about to... just wondering which manufacturer.... there is a kit for 135 but I think they use a nylon gear in it... dont think I want to trust nylon.... what kit did you buy ????
@@johnhenryholiday4964 I bought the one with the nylon unknowingly and its has held up pretty well
_I have run it 20 years without difficulty_ Wow, that's hard to believe, between the vacuum hoses just plain dry-rotting into uselessness, and all the moisture/mud/salt induced failures to the shift motor hanging off the back of the Transfer Case... but if you mean the nylon hubs themselves, I agree, mine still click-click On/Off... just not when you throw the switch, lol...
@@johnhenryholiday4964 AFAIK there are only 2 after-market manual locking hubs for these Pulse Vacuum Hubs (PVH), the 'Rugged Ridge' brand (made by AVM in Brazil) are the ones with NYLON engagement splines, and get a LOT OF BAD REVIEWS, the slightly more spendy *Mile Marker* brand (Made in USA) have steel splines and get a lot more thumbs up.
Duh PVH system was used on the '98-'00 Rangers, and the made-in-the-same-Twin-Cities-plant Mazda B3000/B4000 from '01-'08... (took Mazda HQ a LOT longer to catch on, lol...) The Mazda B is a Ford Ranger with a different grille and tailgate.
Wish they made videos were they did not have cushy lofts and air find doing all the work. I can’t get into anything well this piece of shit is jacked up
@@xyzbuge do not comply to catagory "they".
Thankfully mine is a later 01 so mine doesn’t have that bs vacuum crap
It’s orange so you know which side faces out
Ooh... I would like to see someone try to put that spiral lock on there with it facing the wrong way. That would be entertaining.
Rust Belt Auto that would be entertaining lol
Honestly I want to remove mine mainly for I can fit my new rims lol.
. If ya hate working on Rangers tell people to take them to somebody else. Why live in misery??? Do a video on a 1994 Toyota 4x4 pickup that's been neglected like this Ranger All rusted and corroded. Bet you would have some fancy language by the end of video. Rangers are easy to work on as I have owned a few of them. My present ranger has 300K on it and have not been into front hubs yet. Its not a pavement princess either. I read that 200k is max for front hubs.
Not complaining doesn't make me feel good.
If you don't like the ranger, don't work on it. Get a good Chevy or dodge if there is any. Go to harbor freight and buy some more shade tree tools
You have a lot of bad advice.
I heard a OCD tick there ranger ranger ranger lol
Just a slight comorbidity.
Is it the CV axle seal
No. it is the 4WD wheel seal.
@@RustBeltAuto how far down does it have to put in
@@brandoncoley8190 best to measure the depth of the old one before you take it out, and put the new one at the same depth.
@@RustBeltAuto is that a ford tool to install it
@@brandoncoley8190 the only ford tools I have are a really big hammer, and a torch.
Study up on that
I'm trying to quit.
What is the stupid dumb orange thing called? I need two of them
I think its a dealer only item, or a cat. F87Z-3B457-AA. Found this, but think it might be wrong.
Appreciate the response, thanks. That's as good as I've found too. Advance, AutoZ0ne, NOBODY has it!@@RustBeltAuto
dude, bought it from the dealership and fixed it on there. No more rattling and destroying manual locking hub teeth. that is the correct part to replace y'all, not a dumb c-shaped clip and some washers!! @@RustBeltAuto
@@kevip1324 it's probably an upgraded virgin.
That spiral lock is an asshole
🤣
If you do not like why your working you need to keep your remarks to yourself it make you look bad but you don’t care Bo you .
Great video! But put some long pants and big boy footwear would you!?
Thanks for the video, saved my ass!
I will not.
a big rusty HOLE? oh no say it aint so
Good Video, but the constant criticism of the Ranger design is boring. The truck is the way it is. I appreciate the video explanation though.
Thanks for watching!
P.S. I see you really love ford engineering.... hahahahahahahaha.... yeah... wait till you take the drivers side upper control arm out..... 2 brake lines and one gas line in the way of getting the bolt out... you have to either take them out.... or bend the crap out of them....
I bend them.
None of that way in the way on my 2000, took all of 45 min to get the old control arm out and the new one on.
You constantly putting down Ford Ranger is very annoying your communication skills are poor but thanks for teaching me how to take the bearing off
So you're easily annoyed, and not from Minnesota. Thanks for watching.
@@RustBeltAuto Texas
@@RustBeltAuto 🤣🤣
“ Anything is better than this Ford crap. Rusts out after 1 year submerged in the ocean. Aftermarket is loose crap. These vacuum hoses aren’t even crazy-ex-wife-knife proof. Cant tell you how many of these junk tires ive had to dump cuz a steak knife got stuck in it. “
All good points.
Complaint auto, nothing is good about anything.... eat me.
Accept everything for what it is, and eat yourself.
My ranger is gay too. Just came out last week.
It's happy.