It's quite remarkable that you do precision mechanical engineering, heavy duty (14Lb hammers are involved) diesel work, and now electronics. Where (the heck) did you learn all this stuff?!
Lets get this right. You have no problem working on heavy equipment, and can change gears and repair a circuit board. I've only known one person like you. He was my big brother. Deceased. When they tried to tell me I was smarter than him I laughed in their face. You are a true genius. I do not say this in jest. Thanks for the video.
The first video I saw from you was the Army surplus truck, and you slugging it out with that heavy equipment as if you had been a 63 series in the 2nd Armored Div or something. So I watch more and see your intricate electronic work like a 31 series at Field Station Berlin! You are a obviously a highly skilled and extremely intelligent young man who doesn't shy away from a challenge! I wish you very well in your future endeavors, and look forward to seeing what you're up to next. Great Job!!!
Excellent work. You see few who can troubleshoot and repair like you do now days. This used to be common but in today's disposable world everyone wants to throw things away and buy new stuff. Unfortunately with lots of older CNC equipment there are no replacement parts and few schematics. You work around these issues to make these older machines continue producing good parts. Great job.
Omnivision 9" monitor service manual & schematic are here: www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/OmniVisionMonitor.pdf Kristel also made some 9" monitors and the manual for Kristel is here: www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/KristelMonitor.pdf I wrote an illustrated repair guide for the Omnivision and Kristel monitors back in 2005. These monitors were used in Arachnid's "English Mark Darts" electronic commercial soft tip dart machines you'd see in taverns. I've repaired dozens of those monitors over the years.
I machined using a Kitamura MyCenter Zero, with a nice Yasnac controller & I absolutely loved that machine, but the CRT had the same problem. I always wanted to fix it but the boss wouldn't allow it. I wanted to buy it from him and fix it, but he sold all his machines and his business. I will get one some day. Thanks From Monroe WI. USA
I always tell my son it is satisfying to know you did even if you had to learn some on the way. In addition I have told him. You get paid on what you know. Not on what you don't know. Excellent work.
You need to modify that desoldering station a bit, then it will work well enough to replace those ICs intact without any trouble every time. The most important thing is to get the vaccum to come on more quickly. You can just put the pump motor on a higher voltage (with plenty of current) 15V to 19V works fine (usually it is 12V). A laptop power supply for example. Even better is to change the diaphragm pump for a venturi pump operated with a solenoid valve from shop air, because it is instant with no motor to speed up and nothing to gum up. Another important factor is to keep restrictions out of the air path. The stock filters are really dense, and sometimes the spring in the solder catcher restricts the flow too (depending on model). You can check for that with a vaccum gauge in the suction line. It should read about -0.8 Bar (athmospheres) when you block the nozzle, and no more than -0.3 athmospheres when the nozzle is open. We use those cheap desoldering stations at work so I know them intimately, and they can be made to work better than all the expensive ones I tried.
stefantrethan this is some good information for when I get a desoldering station, I currently own a plunger operated desoldering tool and hate that thing... I wish I had a vacuum operated one because the joints usually cool down before I can line the stupid nozzle up on mine. But it gets me by, and even sometimes it works flawlessly you just gotta be fast lol 💨
Very impressive that you even know how to repair crt monitor circuit boards. I've been repairing them for arcade games since 1983 and you'd be surprised how many hack jobs I've had to go in and first figure out what someone else screwed up then diagnos the original problem and repair it. The overriding majority of crt's I've repaired were Wells Gardner brand. They were tye largest manufacturers of them. Also the best designed. They still have all the info on the multitude of them the made before going lcd including schematics, service manuals and other info. Gee, is there anything you can't repair Wes. I have no doubt you could even rebuild an airplane and helo radial and turboshaft engines. The best way to remove chips is to touch the very tip of your soldering iron to the tip of the chip leg as you put a touch of fresh solder on it then use a vacuum desoldering station to remove the soldering, again only touching the tip of the leg slightly into the guns tip to avoid damaging the boards trace. The first thing you should do on an older board is change every radial capaciter on them. They can look fine and still be bad. If there's a brown wax looking substance leaking out from under them or the top looks like it's bulging it's definitely bad. The top should have two groved lines on it. It's literally referred to as the relief valve and it's function is to keep the cap from exploding out sideways from it's case which I've actually seen when cheap Chinese knockoff caps went bad. That trace damage you found is the prime example of someone getting their soldering irons tip on the board which will lift off the trace. Always clean the tip of your iron before you install and solder the new part. Otherwise you introduce pollutants into you nice new shiny solder which can cause problems after several hours of use. Especially on high voltage items like bridge rectifiers and Ac/Dc voltage regulators. Most boards of that age use 4 diodes mounted on the board to convert . Incoming Ac to Dc. Inspect all solder joints for voltage stress cracking. It's really common on ground solder points
I have done quite a few jobs that I could have paid someone else to do for what it cost me. But what I gained was the knowledge and tools to do it cheaper and quicker the next time.
Retired Electrical Engineer here. I have designed and repaired equipment like this. You do pretty well for a diesel mechanic! J/k, I'm thinking you have a lot of electronics experience. 👍
When I check capacitors I check the value and the ESR. Not sure of you do that and just didn't mention it. I am impressed with your electronic knowledge.
Nice job, that's how we did DIY through hole contacts in the old days ...that numbers remind me somewhat of old style analogue TV horizontal frequency, but who know what the designers had in mind. I sometimes come across the CRT replacement problem, too. In some cases i got good results with one of these Chinese "everything-to-vga" converters and just use a modern LCD VGA monitor. If the CRT is really badly burnt in, there is usually no point of fixing it and second hand replacements are most likely of the same vintage.
Usually the burn in is not a huge issue for CNC machines. They just display simple characters. But, eventually we won't be able to get parts to fix these old CRTs. I'll have to get one of those Chinese scan converters and play with it.
I'M WITH Paul Womack ON THIS WHERE DO YOU STOP 1 year ago It's quite remarkable that you do precision mechanical engineering, heavy duty (14Lb hammers are involved) diesel work, and now electronics. Where (the heck) did you learn all this stuff?!
Good job wes. Very very good to tune the oscillator to the one on one machine and the other. I had an old amigo machine in the 80's that used that freq for frame grabbing and video out signal. It was miles ahead of IBM stuff but it was locked where it was and IBM could make video cards like the old 90's voodoo chips. I loved that old voodoo card but my laptop right now would make it so obsolete as to be in another world
The only bad thing about cathode ray tubes is phosphor burn where text has never moved. Static pictures from security cameras are a killer. Good old tech :-D
...Replacing the old electrolytics......have you been watching ...Mr. Carlson...? Nice repair on the through hole....I did a lot of PC board work/repairs in the 1970's on FRP boards, mostly hot running TTL 7400 series.......didn't have much in the way of repair stuff like this....manual solder suckers and solder wick was the 'new' stuff then....removing chips....yes, nearly always had to cut the legs on top like you did here....
I tried to remove a chip from a logic board once and just destroyed the plated through holes. Since then I've always been nervous about it. Most times I plan to replace the chip anyway, so it's much safer just to clip the legs.
...Yeah, pretty much like I did waaaay back when, and the 7400 chips were fairly cheap, not a big deal if you clipped the ?good one?......deal was....lots of machine tool stuff was using TTL with maybe 20 milliamp max....for sinking 24 volt DC to operate relays....what the circuit designers would do was parallel 2-3 outputs on the chips.... Often the guys wiring up the control panels would leave off the back EMF diodes that were supposed to be soldered to the relay sockets....or they would be backwards, or cold soldered...... Thanks for the Reply.....I like you variety of work...
Dude you definitely know your stuff! Respectfully get the flux Louis rossman uses, a tip cleaner, a temp controlled iron, and watch some rossman vids. Your soldering skills will increase exponentially. I love your vids, you leave the detail in and I appreciate that.
You know a lot of different stuff. It’s fun to watch even though I know this stuff probably won’t rub off on me. I know where I’ll be sending my broken crt’s :)
Knowing what you doing usually helps. I just get nervous thinking about soldiering on a board. Now drilling into it... that would give me a nervous breakdown. You made it look easy really.
Nice repair, so many things get thrown out when they could be repaired like you said in one of your other vids somebody built it I can fix it ( or something like that)
Higher horizontal sweep frequency means more horizontal lines (higher vertical resolution and more lines of text). Higher electron gun modulation bandwidth means a higher horizontal resolution and more characters per line. Incidentally, slowing these things down a little like you have done is usually no problem; but speeding them up usually is a problem.
6:11 let it cool down after the first round of soldering, or you introduce too much heat to the chip. On this large old chip, this is probably not THAT much of an issue, but on newer ones, the solderings inside the chip are extremely prone to melting if you apply too much heat. Alternating the side of the chip and jumping one leg on each go helps to keep the temperature down in the chip as well.
I have a CNC CRT monitor on a bridgeport Interact II that is jagged. Sometimes I can't read the screen. I would really like for it to be clean and clear like the monitor at the end of the video. Do you do repairs on the side? If not, any suggestions on how I should diagnose my monitor?
Nice repair! However I do not think you really needed to fix the land with the epoxy method. Drilling out the plated thru-hole and installing the eyelet should've pretty much been enough.
I'm surprised to hear you say you always have problems depleting ics and then seeing you use a full on desoldering pump. I was expecting to see desoldering braid or one of those spring loaded pumps. I've never really had any trouble desoldering anything since I got a real desoldering tool. I wonder if there's something wrong with yours...
I had some bad luck with traces being damaged from the pins not fully desoldering and pulling out through holes when I tried to pop the chip out. I think it's safer just to cut them and pull the pins individually.
@@WatchWesWork I always remove old chips the way you did it. I clip the pins close to the chip and heat each one with the soldering iron then pull it out with tweezers. Then clean up the hole with desoldering braid.
It's down to reducing the risk of damaging a trace. Also I've generally found I need less heat for less time to be certain of a clean removel. This takes no longer and I guess it's each to his own
Should be relatively easy to translate and convert the display and control signals to ethernet or other high speed serial using inexpensive controllers (raspberry pi) or PAL logic, etc. Then just use any laptop. Maybe next time one breaks. Could be a little hard finding CRTs nowadays!
Just a heads up Did you check the coil constraint mechanism on the back of the crt? I had and old genie crt from the 70s the coil on that thing was a bitch lol I bought some commercial grade chicken coup wire. I got the super thin grade 23 mil variant. After I lubed the chassis and replaced the horizontal and vertical control units. Had to completely reinstall the control units from scratch. I got lucky and got the chicken wire wrapped around the coil. But the crt smokes a little at start up. So I installed a fanning system to keep the crt from exploding lol generally speaking if your crt explodes that is either one of a couple things Bad design. Overheating watching old bugs bunny cartoons. Or inverting the polarity Anyway looks like you’ve got a good handle on this lol
shouldn't the horizontal sync be 15.750Khz from the CPU? Hrm, 23Khz means they were doing high-ish resolution. The HGC with 720x396 was only 18.625. What's the vertical refresh rate on this display? How many lines on the CRT?
The spec sheet for the CRT that I could find says 15.75 or 31.6 depending on if it's set for VGA or MDA. But, you can see on the scope that it's 17+ and the other machine is 23. It's 60hz vertical. I don't know how many lines.
I can't believe there are so many different video signal combinations. I've seen composite monochrome, composite RGB, MDA, EGA, CGA, VGA, etc. These Yasnacs seem to be non standard.
No, the ESR can be checked in-circuit. The test signal has so low amplitude, it's not supposed to bother any PN junctions in the circuit. There are a few traps, eg: several bypass capacitors on the same rail at far locations from each other, so you might not realize it instantly without a schematic. Parallelled capacitors' ESR acts like parallelled resistors, so it can be misleading by showing lower ESR than the actual value. High capacity multilayer ceramic bypass caps (or a lot of small capacity one in parallel) also has very low ESR, so to measure the PSU output electrolytic or local bypass electrolytics in boards like that, you have to remove them before measurement in order to get an accurate reading. But in most of the cases, it's fine to measure ESR in-circuit, if you have the right tool for it. This is the whole point of ESR measurement in the repair industry: it can be done in-circuit, so you don't have to desolder every capacitor, which would be very time consuming. It also decreases the repair parts costs, because a sensible technician wouldn't re-install an already desoldered old electrolytic, even if it tested good. With the aid of in-circuit ESR measurement, you can focus on fault finding, and after that, you can still do a full recap as a preventive maintenance after the unit works again, if it is known that it's very old, has a huge working hours count, has bad quality, noname capacitors, or if it is from an era when even good brand capacitors had long term reliablity problems due to chemical issues (a lot of the '80s - early '90s early low-ESR caps are leaking electolyte, because the agressive electrolyte corrodes away the leads and/or deterioretes the rubber seal over time).
I have repaired hundreds of electronic boards and the only way to know for sure is to remove the capacitor. If the piece of equipment is old then a good approach is to just replace all the electrolytics.
I sat through the whole video even though i had absolutely no idea about literally anything you said.
me too :).
It's quite remarkable that you do precision mechanical engineering, heavy duty (14Lb hammers are involved) diesel work, and now electronics.
Where (the heck) did you learn all this stuff?!
Lets get this right. You have no problem working on heavy equipment, and can change gears and repair a circuit board. I've only known one person like you. He was my big brother. Deceased. When they tried to tell me I was smarter than him I laughed in their face. You are a true genius. I do not say this in jest. Thanks for the video.
The first video I saw from you was the Army surplus truck, and you slugging it out with that heavy equipment as if you had been a 63 series in the 2nd Armored Div or something. So I watch more and see your intricate electronic work like a 31 series at Field Station Berlin! You are a obviously a highly skilled and extremely intelligent young man who doesn't shy away from a challenge! I wish you very well in your future endeavors, and look forward to seeing what you're up to next. Great Job!!!
:-0). From what I gather you are close to an expert on almost everything.
"close to an expert" is an understatement!!!
Excellent work. You see few who can troubleshoot and repair like you do now days. This used to be common but in today's disposable world everyone wants to throw things away and buy new stuff. Unfortunately with lots of older CNC equipment there are no replacement parts and few schematics. You work around these issues to make these older machines continue producing good parts. Great job.
Omnivision 9" monitor service manual & schematic are here:
www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/OmniVisionMonitor.pdf
Kristel also made some 9" monitors and the manual for Kristel is here:
www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/KristelMonitor.pdf
I wrote an illustrated repair guide for the Omnivision and Kristel monitors back in 2005. These monitors were used in Arachnid's "English Mark Darts" electronic commercial soft tip dart machines you'd see in taverns. I've repaired dozens of those monitors over the years.
I machined using a Kitamura MyCenter Zero, with a nice Yasnac controller & I absolutely loved that machine, but the CRT had the same problem. I always wanted to fix it but the boss wouldn't allow it. I wanted to buy it from him and fix it, but he sold all his machines and his business. I will get one some day. Thanks From Monroe WI. USA
Older video and on a topic I would not tackle myself. You're quite versatile!
I always tell my son it is satisfying to know you did even if you had to learn some on the way. In addition I have told him. You get paid on what you know. Not on what you don't know.
Excellent work.
Well, many times you run into a situation where no one knows. In that case, you usually have to pay someone to learn. Sometimes that person is me.
Interesting Wes you have a lot of talent when it comes to electronics.
your knowledge is crazy mechanics.... and electronics.....killer combo.
You need to modify that desoldering station a bit, then it will work well enough to replace those ICs intact without any trouble every time.
The most important thing is to get the vaccum to come on more quickly. You can just put the pump motor on a higher voltage (with plenty of current) 15V to 19V works fine (usually it is 12V). A laptop power supply for example. Even better is to change the diaphragm pump for a venturi pump operated with a solenoid valve from shop air, because it is instant with no motor to speed up and nothing to gum up.
Another important factor is to keep restrictions out of the air path. The stock filters are really dense, and sometimes the spring in the solder catcher restricts the flow too (depending on model). You can check for that with a vaccum gauge in the suction line. It should read about -0.8 Bar (athmospheres) when you block the nozzle, and no more than -0.3 athmospheres when the nozzle is open. We use those cheap desoldering stations at work so I know them intimately, and they can be made to work better than all the expensive ones I tried.
stefantrethan this is some good information for when I get a desoldering station, I currently own a plunger operated desoldering tool and hate that thing... I wish I had a vacuum operated one because the joints usually cool down before I can line the stupid nozzle up on mine. But it gets me by, and even sometimes it works flawlessly you just gotta be fast lol 💨
Thought i had hit on Marco Reps or Mr. Carlsons Lab. Man of many talents.
Your the only mechanic that has vast electronic knowledge!
Very impressive that you even know how to repair crt monitor circuit boards.
I've been repairing them for arcade games since 1983 and you'd be surprised how many hack jobs I've had to go in and first figure out what someone else screwed up then diagnos the original problem and repair it.
The overriding majority of crt's I've repaired were Wells Gardner brand.
They were tye largest manufacturers of them.
Also the best designed.
They still have all the info on the multitude of them the made before going lcd including schematics, service manuals and other info.
Gee, is there anything you can't repair Wes.
I have no doubt you could even rebuild an airplane and helo radial and turboshaft engines.
The best way to remove chips is to touch the very tip of your soldering iron to the tip of the chip leg as you put a touch of fresh solder on it then use a vacuum desoldering station to remove the soldering, again only touching the tip of the leg slightly into the guns tip to avoid damaging the boards trace.
The first thing you should do on an older board is change every radial capaciter on them.
They can look fine and still be bad.
If there's a brown wax looking substance leaking out from under them or the top looks like it's bulging it's definitely bad.
The top should have two groved lines on it.
It's literally referred to as the relief valve and it's function is to keep the cap from exploding out sideways from it's case which I've actually seen when cheap Chinese knockoff caps went bad.
That trace damage you found is the prime example of someone getting their soldering irons tip on the board which will lift off the trace.
Always clean the tip of your iron before you install and solder the new part.
Otherwise you introduce pollutants into you nice new shiny solder which can cause problems after several hours of use.
Especially on high voltage items like bridge rectifiers and Ac/Dc voltage regulators.
Most boards of that age use 4 diodes mounted on the board to convert . Incoming Ac to Dc. Inspect all solder joints for voltage stress cracking.
It's really common on ground solder points
I have done quite a few jobs that I could have paid someone else to do for what it cost me. But what I gained was the knowledge and tools to do it cheaper and quicker the next time.
Retired Electrical Engineer here. I have designed and repaired equipment like this. You do pretty well for a diesel mechanic! J/k, I'm thinking you have a lot of electronics experience. 👍
I have the same problem with my crt. It is repeating multiple times horizontally. Why does this happen?
When I check capacitors I check the value and the ESR. Not sure of you do that and just didn't mention it. I am impressed with your electronic knowledge.
Reminds of my days of working on my block plant automation. We had a cuber that ran partly on a tape reader and partly on IDEC PLC.
Nice job, that's how we did DIY through hole contacts in the old days ...that numbers remind me somewhat of old style analogue TV horizontal frequency, but who know what the designers had in mind. I sometimes come across the CRT replacement problem, too. In some cases i got good results with one of these Chinese "everything-to-vga" converters and just use a modern LCD VGA monitor. If the CRT is really badly burnt in, there is usually no point of fixing it and second hand replacements are most likely of the same vintage.
Usually the burn in is not a huge issue for CNC machines. They just display simple characters. But, eventually we won't be able to get parts to fix these old CRTs. I'll have to get one of those Chinese scan converters and play with it.
I'M WITH
Paul Womack ON THIS WHERE DO YOU STOP
1 year ago
It's quite remarkable that you do precision mechanical engineering, heavy duty (14Lb hammers are involved) diesel work, and now electronics.
Where (the heck) did you learn all this stuff?!
Good job wes. Very very good to tune the oscillator to the one on one machine and the other. I had an old amigo machine in the 80's that used that freq for frame grabbing and video out signal. It was miles ahead of IBM stuff but it was locked where it was and IBM could make video cards like the old 90's voodoo chips. I loved that old voodoo card but my laptop right now would make it so obsolete as to be in another world
The only bad thing about cathode ray tubes is phosphor burn where text has never moved.
Static pictures from security cameras are a killer.
Good old tech :-D
Impressive and thoughtful repair, well done.
...Replacing the old electrolytics......have you been watching ...Mr. Carlson...?
Nice repair on the through hole....I did a lot of PC board work/repairs in the 1970's on FRP boards, mostly hot running TTL 7400 series.......didn't have much in the way of repair stuff like this....manual solder suckers and solder wick was the 'new' stuff then....removing chips....yes, nearly always had to cut the legs on top like you did here....
I tried to remove a chip from a logic board once and just destroyed the plated through holes. Since then I've always been nervous about it. Most times I plan to replace the chip anyway, so it's much safer just to clip the legs.
...Yeah, pretty much like I did waaaay back when, and the 7400 chips were fairly cheap, not a big deal if you clipped the ?good one?......deal was....lots of machine tool stuff was using TTL with maybe 20 milliamp max....for sinking 24 volt DC to operate relays....what the circuit designers would do was parallel 2-3 outputs on the chips....
Often the guys wiring up the control panels would leave off the back EMF diodes that were supposed to be soldered to the relay sockets....or they would be backwards, or cold soldered......
Thanks for the Reply.....I like you variety of work...
Mr. Carlson huh. I used to watch some of his videos a little while back.
Is he hot shit sitting in that lab of his?
*BEAUTIFUL WORK WES.*
Wow. You do amazing work. Can I make a suggestion? Try applying flux to the de-soldering braid. It seems to help me. Keep up the good work!
Good braid is pre-fluxed !
and cut the used part off, it was soaking up the heat.
Dude you definitely know your stuff! Respectfully get the flux Louis rossman uses, a tip cleaner, a temp controlled iron, and watch some rossman vids. Your soldering skills will increase exponentially. I love your vids, you leave the detail in and I appreciate that.
Good stuff Wes!
ATB, Robin
It's a little dodgy, but it gets the job done.
You know a lot of different stuff. It’s fun to watch even though I know this stuff probably won’t rub off on me.
I know where I’ll be sending my broken crt’s :)
Came out great. You got a working end result.
This is pretty impressive.
amazing video, i love it, inspires me to work on my CRT too, but no luck fixing it so far haha
You are in the deep cipher mode.
Way above my pay grade, but very interesting. Neat fix of the PCB.
Brian
you have some mad skills! thanks for sharing.
I don't know about that. I spent an embarrassingly long time fixing that CRT.
I think your the dude who's gonna build optimus prime
Seemingly painstaking, but really nice repair all the same.
I'm sure it's easy if you know what you are doing.
Knowing what you doing usually helps. I just get nervous thinking about soldiering on a board. Now drilling into it... that would give me a nervous breakdown. You made it look easy really.
Nice repair mate big thumbs up
That was great work!
Hey Wes, why don't you just use a solder sucker tool instead of the braid?
Found you through the #DirtPerfect podcast; looked for the "catchy thumbnail" and learned something ! I'll be back Wes. Add another subscriber !
Nice repair, so many things get thrown out when they could be repaired like you said in one of your other vids somebody built it I can fix it ( or something like that)
Thumbs up 👍 a real turn on!
Higher horizontal sweep frequency means more horizontal lines (higher vertical resolution and more lines of text). Higher electron gun modulation bandwidth means a higher horizontal resolution and more characters per line. Incidentally, slowing these things down a little like you have done is usually no problem; but speeding them up usually is a problem.
Next time, put some flux on the de-solder braid - it really works.
Next year Watch Wes Time Travel. 😀
6:11 let it cool down after the first round of soldering, or you introduce too much heat to the chip. On this large old chip, this is probably not THAT much of an issue, but on newer ones, the solderings inside the chip are extremely prone to melting if you apply too much heat.
Alternating the side of the chip and jumping one leg on each go helps to keep the temperature down in the chip as well.
Imagine some youtuber make an announcement and said "Hey guys i'm going to make a CRT repair video!" And that was the last thing you saw from them
I have a CNC CRT monitor on a bridgeport Interact II that is jagged. Sometimes I can't read the screen. I would really like for it to be clean and clear like the monitor at the end of the video. Do you do repairs on the side? If not, any suggestions on how I should diagnose my monitor?
Poke a wire thru the hole that can fix that torn pad
buy a Hakko desoldering gun they are expensive but make desoldering ICS easier
Hi Wes !! Where do you get all the schematics for the circuit boards ?
Nice repair! However I do not think you really needed to fix the land with the epoxy method. Drilling out the plated thru-hole and installing the eyelet should've pretty much been enough.
good job
Dear sir on a CNC machine CRT showing retrace lines and image not coming .can u suggest witch component is defective
I'm surprised to hear you say you always have problems depleting ics and then seeing you use a full on desoldering pump. I was expecting to see desoldering braid or one of those spring loaded pumps. I've never really had any trouble desoldering anything since I got a real desoldering tool. I wonder if there's something wrong with yours...
I had some bad luck with traces being damaged from the pins not fully desoldering and pulling out through holes when I tried to pop the chip out. I think it's safer just to cut them and pull the pins individually.
@@WatchWesWork I always remove old chips the way you did it. I clip the pins close to the chip and heat each one with the soldering iron then pull it out with tweezers. Then clean up the hole with desoldering braid.
It's down to reducing the risk of damaging a trace. Also I've generally found I need less heat for less time to be certain of a clean removel. This takes no longer and I guess it's each to his own
Should be relatively easy to translate and convert the display and control signals to ethernet or other high speed serial using inexpensive controllers (raspberry pi) or PAL logic, etc. Then just use any laptop. Maybe next time one breaks. Could be a little hard finding CRTs nowadays!
i wonder if anyone makes a solution like that, maybe for vintage arcade games or something.
okay you have a desoldering gun, cool
WATCH WES WORK, What is the Monitors B+ Voltage used for what reasons? Whats the differences between a raster monitor compared to a vector monitor?
wow
Just a heads up
Did you check the coil constraint mechanism on the back of the crt?
I had and old genie crt from the 70s the coil on that thing was a bitch lol I bought some commercial grade chicken coup wire. I got the super thin grade 23 mil variant.
After I lubed the chassis and replaced the horizontal and vertical control units. Had to completely reinstall the control units from scratch.
I got lucky and got the chicken wire wrapped around the coil. But the crt smokes a little at start up. So I installed a fanning system to keep the crt from exploding lol generally speaking if your crt explodes that is either one of a couple things
Bad design. Overheating watching old bugs bunny cartoons. Or inverting the polarity
Anyway looks like you’ve got a good handle on this lol
shouldn't the horizontal sync be 15.750Khz from the CPU? Hrm, 23Khz means they were doing high-ish resolution. The HGC with 720x396 was only 18.625. What's the vertical refresh rate on this display? How many lines on the CRT?
The spec sheet for the CRT that I could find says 15.75 or 31.6 depending on if it's set for VGA or MDA. But, you can see on the scope that it's 17+ and the other machine is 23. It's 60hz vertical. I don't know how many lines.
Hello engineer. Can you help me with a screen problem? ❤
Some of the older Mazaks run at this low frequency.
I can't believe there are so many different video signal combinations. I've seen composite monochrome, composite RGB, MDA, EGA, CGA, VGA, etc. These Yasnacs seem to be non standard.
Is there anything mechanic wise you cannot do??!
Yeah, make a lot of money...
I’m not an expert nut I still think that you went to far away about what was needed with that pad! Otherwise thks for the video
Hi good good pls kindly send schematic for CRT
can you post the schematic?
Isn't it impossible to test a capacitor without removing it from the board?
No, the ESR can be checked in-circuit. The test signal has so low amplitude, it's not supposed to bother any PN junctions in the circuit. There are a few traps, eg: several bypass capacitors on the same rail at far locations from each other, so you might not realize it instantly without a schematic. Parallelled capacitors' ESR acts like parallelled resistors, so it can be misleading by showing lower ESR than the actual value.
High capacity multilayer ceramic bypass caps (or a lot of small capacity one in parallel) also has very low ESR, so to measure the PSU output electrolytic or local bypass electrolytics in boards like that, you have to remove them before measurement in order to get an accurate reading. But in most of the cases, it's fine to measure ESR in-circuit, if you have the right tool for it.
This is the whole point of ESR measurement in the repair industry: it can be done in-circuit, so you don't have to desolder every capacitor, which would be very time consuming. It also decreases the repair parts costs, because a sensible technician wouldn't re-install an already desoldered old electrolytic, even if it tested good. With the aid of in-circuit ESR measurement, you can focus on fault finding, and after that, you can still do a full recap as a preventive maintenance after the unit works again, if it is known that it's very old, has a huge working hours count, has bad quality, noname capacitors, or if it is from an era when even good brand capacitors had long term reliablity problems due to chemical issues (a lot of the '80s - early '90s early low-ESR caps are leaking electolyte, because the agressive electrolyte corrodes away the leads and/or deterioretes the rubber seal over time).
I have repaired hundreds of electronic boards and the only way to know for sure is to remove the capacitor. If the piece of equipment is old then a good approach is to just replace all the electrolytics.
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wtf dude, what CAN'T you fix?