Thanks again Wes- very interesting videos . Love the car/truck and other stuff too but the machine repair info is really unusual on UA-cam and you are a very good teacher . Like you- I'm into it all :) !
I work on Yaskawa AC drives mostly for HVAC/R equipment and some process applications. I have never worked any of there inverters or drives for CNC's so this was very interesting to see.
Probably about the same inside. This one has some fancy stuff for switching between two windings in the motor and dynamic braking, but still pretty simple. The smaller drives seem to have one big module that does all the high amp switching instead of several individual modules. Those are not really worth fixing.
Interesting to see your work and note you are now a mechanic. Problem solve to determine what is wrong and fix it. Similar but a lot more physical and greasy. Hope you are enjoying the change because you make life a little more interesting for a senior that no longer has the location to work. Working mechanical in a driveway sucks as you probably know. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Shit man this is great content! I have no idea why I haven’t seen this before… And I really hope to find more of your videos pertaining to motor drives and automation control equipment. I’ve got a Nice but humble lab set up in the corner of my woodshop… And do a lot of repair work regarding industrial equipment and test equipment. Content like this is sparse on UA-cam... and this is such a great video!
Try to avoid using constant surface speed when using a face roughing cycle. It seems CAM systems default to this style roughing, but I think it’s really tough on the spindle drive. I recognized this when looking at a machine for sale, the owner said he was going through spindle drives and breaking resistors routinely. He ran one of his programs in air and I noticed the roughing cycle. Took me a while to put 2+2 together, but I normally turn roughing instead of face rough. So if you gotta face rough, do it with G97 programmed Rpm instead of SFM. That’s my $.02 at least.
So, with that faulty diode on the positive bus, it's allowing current to recirculate around that when braking. Notice that the transistors are on the input side of the diode and the resistors are on the output side of the diode. Effectively, with one of the diodes bad, you only have half the braking resistor capacity, because the other resistor isn't absorbing current, as it recirculates around the bad diode. That's how I'm reading that schematic.
Very good, congratulations on your work. I need help with a varispeed-616g3 inverter which does not turn on, I have 380V current input at both the inverter input and the fuse, but the device does not turn on, any advice before taking it to technical service? Thanks in advance
You have an awesome job by the looks of it. Just curious, are you self taught or have you taken post secondary schooling. If so what courses have you taken. I'm looking for a career change.
I don't know of any college classes that will help you repair a spindle drive in a real world setting. So, in that regard, I guess I'm self taught. The point though is that these drives really are not that complicated. The high amp stuff fails the most often. Typically you just replace it and away you go.
Quick question After you install the spindle drive back in place Do you have to put in some parameters manually with those buttons the unit has on the back? Im asking because i have to remove the unit to replace the cooling fan behind the unit
For what it is worth , in my job fixing industrial machinery , we often need to repair the cooling fans. Fanuc drives have a warning number(58 if I remember correctly )and that means the small fan in the top of the drive needs to come out and get replaced . I have not seen any parameter changes needed for the same drive being removed and then reinstalled including my own Mitsubishi machine. Take that for what it is worth - hope it is helpful. PS obviously do not remove batteries from any drives or control systems when the power is off as that will wipe out parameters on many systems !
Hello friend, I have an MT3. I would like to know if I can reuse it in a retofit of a CNC by the orientation of the spindle for the tool change. or how can I turn it on without the control to know if it's good or not?
You have to find the manual for the drive to learn that information. You likely need to change a parameter to allow the drive to run from the key pad instead of via remote.
He does everything, but I suspect he is trying to film the more popular subjects and car repairs probably have higher views on average than spindle repairs.
I'm having trouble with the spindle timing out and not coming to speed. I installed a new spindle encoder. The forums seem to point in that direction and also the local tech. But that wasn't it. Do you know some who has some experience in them ? Thanks
I'm not sure. Does it do that for any RPM, or just high RPM? Typically on the smaller VMCs, the spindle actually runs in open loop with no encoder feedback. The encoder is only used for tapping and for the RPM display on the control. I might start by having the motor tested with a megger. Perhaps you have a bad winding on one phase. Also, if it's a wye-delta motor, you might want to check whatever relay or contactor is responsible for the switch from wye to delta.
@@WatchWesWork Hello again. When I program it to 1500 rpm , it starts , but only runs about 10 or 15 rpm , and the message comes up , spindle speed timed out.
@@WatchWesWork Also , I believe the book says the brushes should be replaced every year. I don't use it that often , but enjoy it running, instead of turning handles manually. I called the parts supplier back east, but he had not got to me about brushes.
@@WatchWesWork yes, Dynamic restive braking, Power to the motor is cut off, the top board switches the IGBT's to allow the current from the motor coasting as a generator, to be fed back through resistors across the windings of the motor. Sometimes only two windings are used. The Idea is to NOT feed the reverse EMF back into the 3 phase system. That is normally protected by a diode. If there is a voltage rise back into the System, then an alarm is generated. Current has gotten past the diode, when it shouldn't The Lower High end components are often Damaged during Brown or Black outs, or by Pressing in the E-stop while the Spindle is Rotating. The Sudden loss of power to the top board, doesn't place the IGBT in Switched mode. All the reverse EMF then Flows backwards and blows out the Diodes. The Top board must remain powered for it to work correctly. Some drives have Fuse elements to protect against this. And all you have to do is replace a blown fuse. But even with fused elements, the Sudden loss of power can be enough to blow the diodes. In rare occurrence, this reverse EMF can even feed back to the top board and blow it out as well. I've seen the copper traces melted off when this happens. I had a similar situation with a 10,000 rpm spindle. it only faulty during deceleration. The Customer sent it back to the factory for repair after getting it back, they ran a job and during a decel from 10,000 rpm it blew. Sounded like an Explosion. the top card was destroyed. It started to decel, flagged an Alarm, the Alarm cut off power, and then All that reverse EMF, just blew it apart, BANG !
Hopefully when you installed the new module you applied plenty of heat sink compound to the bottom of it. If not, it will heat up and burn out again soon.
Hey man just found your channel. Message me back, I have a few questions about a drive that I have and I am wanting repaired. It is a Yaskawa 626. Thanks
Thanks again Wes- very interesting videos . Love the car/truck and other stuff too but the machine repair info is really unusual on UA-cam and you are a very good teacher . Like you- I'm into it all :) !
I work on Yaskawa AC drives mostly for HVAC/R equipment and some process applications. I have never worked any of there inverters or drives for CNC's so this was very interesting to see.
Probably about the same inside. This one has some fancy stuff for switching between two windings in the motor and dynamic braking, but still pretty simple. The smaller drives seem to have one big module that does all the high amp switching instead of several individual modules. Those are not really worth fixing.
Interesting to see your work and note you are now a mechanic. Problem solve to determine what is wrong and fix it. Similar but a lot more physical and greasy. Hope you are enjoying the change because you make life a little more interesting for a senior that no longer has the location to work. Working mechanical in a driveway sucks as you probably know. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Shit man this is great content! I have no idea why I haven’t seen this before… And I really hope to find more of your videos pertaining to motor drives and automation control equipment.
I’ve got a Nice but humble lab set up in the corner of my woodshop… And do a lot of repair work regarding industrial equipment and test equipment.
Content like this is sparse on UA-cam... and this is such a great video!
Try to avoid using constant surface speed when using a face roughing cycle. It seems CAM systems default to this style roughing, but I think it’s really tough on the spindle drive. I recognized this when looking at a machine for sale, the owner said he was going through spindle drives and breaking resistors routinely. He ran one of his programs in air and I noticed the roughing cycle. Took me a while to put 2+2 together, but I normally turn roughing instead of face rough. So if you gotta face rough, do it with G97 programmed Rpm instead of SFM. That’s my $.02 at least.
My new favorite channel! Thanks Wes!
Welcome aboard.
oh my gosh 6700 money that is crazy...good work Wes..
My new favorite chanel as well. Thanks Wes
Heh. I dunno if that's a good choice.
great diagnostics process. thanks for sharing,.
Holly crap!! that's a lot of money, and a lot of current those guys can switch
So, with that faulty diode on the positive bus, it's allowing current to recirculate around that when braking. Notice that the transistors are on the input side of the diode and the resistors are on the output side of the diode. Effectively, with one of the diodes bad, you only have half the braking resistor capacity, because the other resistor isn't absorbing current, as it recirculates around the bad diode. That's how I'm reading that schematic.
Yes I think that is correct. The bad diode provides a path of less resistance than the braking resistor.
7:32 how your boss wants to see you work!
Wow Wes this is great but unfortunately I’m lost ; I’ mean I watch I understand but would never try to fix this .
Very good, congratulations on your work. I need help with a varispeed-616g3 inverter which does not turn on, I have 380V current input at both the inverter input and the fuse, but the device does not turn on, any advice before taking it to technical service? Thanks in advance
Super intresting thanks for the video
You have an awesome job by the looks of it. Just curious, are you self taught or have you taken post secondary schooling. If so what courses have you taken. I'm looking for a career change.
I don't know of any college classes that will help you repair a spindle drive in a real world setting. So, in that regard, I guess I'm self taught. The point though is that these drives really are not that complicated. The high amp stuff fails the most often. Typically you just replace it and away you go.
I got the same spindle drive on my Machine do you service these mine has been giving me alarms
Quick question
After you install the spindle drive back in place
Do you have to put in some parameters manually with those buttons the unit has on the back?
Im asking because i have to remove the unit to replace the cooling fan behind the unit
For what it is worth , in my job fixing industrial machinery , we often need to repair the cooling fans. Fanuc drives have a warning number(58 if I remember correctly )and that means the small fan in the top of the drive needs to come out and get replaced . I have not seen any parameter changes needed for the same drive being removed and then reinstalled including my own Mitsubishi machine. Take that for what it is worth - hope it is helpful. PS obviously do not remove batteries from any drives or control systems when the power is off as that will wipe out parameters on many systems !
Inflation has set in....eBay wants $100 for that transistor module as of today!
Huh, interesting, the output IGBTs actually turn into a 3ph rectifier on decel, to perform the regen. I always wondered about that.
Hello friend, I have an MT3. I would like to know if I can reuse it in a retofit of a CNC by the orientation of the spindle for the tool change. or how can I turn it on without the control to know if it's good or not?
You have to find the manual for the drive to learn that information. You likely need to change a parameter to allow the drive to run from the key pad instead of via remote.
Do you have any documentation on the CDMR MR 30k type DC brush drives ?
that's why you good in modern cars as well. understanding of electronics.
do you have some education related to electronics?
where do you use reference books
How did you go from this work to putting brakes on old pickups?
He does everything, but I suspect he is trying to film the more popular subjects and car repairs probably have higher views on average than spindle repairs.
Where did you get the schematic for this drive?
Nice!!!
Did you ever work on a Bridgeport 308 discovery mill , mine is having a problem , I replaced the encoder , but has the same issue.
I never have. I had a Powerpath 15 lathe though.
I'm having trouble with the spindle timing out and not coming to speed. I installed a new spindle encoder. The forums seem to point in that direction and also the local tech. But that wasn't it. Do you know some who has some experience in them ?
Thanks
I'm not sure. Does it do that for any RPM, or just high RPM? Typically on the smaller VMCs, the spindle actually runs in open loop with no encoder feedback. The encoder is only used for tapping and for the RPM display on the control. I might start by having the motor tested with a megger. Perhaps you have a bad winding on one phase. Also, if it's a wye-delta motor, you might want to check whatever relay or contactor is responsible for the switch from wye to delta.
@@WatchWesWork
Hello again. When I program it to 1500 rpm , it starts , but only runs about 10 or 15 rpm , and the message comes up , spindle speed timed out.
@@WatchWesWork
Also , I believe the book says the brushes should be replaced every year. I don't use it that often , but enjoy it running, instead of turning handles manually. I called the parts supplier back east, but he had not got to me about brushes.
Yep 👍
Dear sir, how to setting stop position orientation spindle (m19
I think they are calling rectification regeneration.
It must be a translation thing. The manual says "regenerative braking", but I would call this "dynamic braking".
@@WatchWesWork yes, Dynamic restive braking, Power to the motor is cut off, the top board switches the IGBT's to allow the current from the motor coasting as a generator, to be fed back through resistors across the windings of the motor. Sometimes only two windings are used.
The Idea is to NOT feed the reverse EMF back into the 3 phase system.
That is normally protected by a diode.
If there is a voltage rise back into the System, then an alarm is generated.
Current has gotten past the diode, when it shouldn't
The Lower High end components are often Damaged during Brown or Black outs, or by Pressing in the E-stop while the Spindle is Rotating.
The Sudden loss of power to the top board, doesn't place the IGBT in Switched mode.
All the reverse EMF then Flows backwards and blows out the Diodes.
The Top board must remain powered for it to work correctly.
Some drives have Fuse elements to protect against this. And all you have to do is replace a blown fuse.
But even with fused elements, the Sudden loss of power can be enough to blow the diodes.
In rare occurrence, this reverse EMF can even feed back to the top board and blow it out as well.
I've seen the copper traces melted off when this happens.
I had a similar situation with a 10,000 rpm spindle.
it only faulty during deceleration.
The Customer sent it back to the factory for repair
after getting it back, they ran a job and during a decel from 10,000 rpm
it blew. Sounded like an Explosion.
the top card was destroyed.
It started to decel, flagged an Alarm, the Alarm cut off power, and then All that reverse EMF, just blew it apart, BANG !
The Smoke Is Normal Break In Spray With Water To Fix
Hopefully when you installed the new module you applied plenty of heat sink compound to the bottom of it. If not, it will heat up and burn out again soon.
67000 vau i would think that is the price for a new one.
F-A00 help me
Hey man just found your channel. Message me back, I have a few questions about a drive that I have and I am wanting repaired. It is a Yaskawa 626. Thanks