These guys are good. They actually take pride in their work and the process. I just did a 69 with some of my students at the training center I run for Mike's Auto Body, the company I work for. This is the exact same process I showed them with bodywork, polyester feather-fill, sealer, base coat, clear, block sand 600 wet, clear again! Car is glass! Hugger Orange with cameo white rally stripes. Glass! 👌🏼💦💯👍🏼
This is true to some degree. For the smaller applications, we use Clean Sheet boards with their wax-paper type composition. However, for the larger mixes, Nathan likes "seasoned" cardboard, in which he leaves a coat of filler hardened on the cardboard to form a barrier, then mixes the big load over that. Clean sheet metal works as well.
I know this is an old post but people looking for advice or knowledge will read comments and get false info. The comments regarding mixing filler on cardboard are false. This come from the idea that the polyester resin will somehow soak into the cardboard and take away from the integrity of the filler. This simply will not happen fast enough to degrade any qualities of the filler. You would have to leave the filler on the cardboard for a far longer period of time than it would take you to mix and use the filler. Use the cardboard it will make zero difference. Any manufacturer info on advising against it is to limit liability against ignorant usage. Also stirring filler is also perfectly fine. The idea is you’re creating air and making pinholes when stirred. This is also mostly false. Pinholes are created mostly from improper application, to much hardener or just cheap filler. Stirring filler almost never is done fast enough to aerate the filler. When mixing on the mixing board,final mix by using one side of the spreader twisting and folding to start the first part of proper application in getting cavities of air out. If you’re spreading proper amounts, thin layers at a time, you will be pressing out major pinholes as you spread. Any pinholes left will simply be part of the process of body work. It’s up to you to find them and deal with them accordingly. Also people looking to use spray filler(spray poly,spray filler) should know you need a poly gun or with a fluid tip of 2.0-2.5 to use the product efficiently. The 3m accuspray gun and til system is good for beginners. One gun, and plenty of tips to handle every phase of the processes. I was giving this gun by 3m to demo and test before it was made available. We used it for all sprayable products on a Ferrari BB512 from poly to clear coat. It’s not %100 preferred but it will get the job done for far cheaper than buying multiple guns. Use cardboard, stir your filler, mix hardener correctly, apply properly and enjoy.
I think a total of 7 or 8 were used, with probably 90% of it sanded off. It seems kinda ridiculous, but that's what it takes to make 'em laser straight.
Thanks man, we try not to "lose" the car. This one has lots of character, and lots of elements that keep ties to the heritage. It will be a very nice car, but one built to drive... hard!
The only thing I seen Nathan do wrong was mix bondo on cardboard that's a no, no Nathan! nice job tho very rare to see a professional in this industry... very rare.
We're not a fan of "Tonka Toy" wheels either. This car is getting 17s in front, 18s in the rear, with enough tire to fill the wells without looking disproportionate. We're also running a cool retro wheel style and custom redlined tires, so it all looks right. Thanks for the feedback, we always like to hear what people think.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Nathan is amazing! What's the dollar total for this level of body work and paint? Or to make it easier, for just what Nathan did?
Nathan worked very hard on this car. As for the dollar value, each car is different, and they all take a different amount of time. Our shop bills like most resto shops, for time and materials. We respect each owner's privacy regarding the financials, but you're free to contact us and we can discuss your project!
I know this is an older post but I'm curious on what Nathan had mixed with the body filler? I see filler and blue hardener but it seems like the filler flows so well. Would that be honey or fiberglass resin mixed in? I'd love to be able to spread a panel like that.
give you a hint. He makes it clear he is advertising 3M, Evercoat has great fillers as well that glide on a panel. Im in Canada ( the country thats going to hell in a hand basket, TY TurdDoh) and unless im not aware of a dealer here for eastwood. I have ordered a few cans of ech of their fillers and they are an amazing product as well. If I were in the US and got free shipping I'd use their products a lot more. Their highbuild primer surfacer is better than evercoat or 3m imo. I have a drawer of durablocks and soft sanders that I have labeled eastwood on it. With exception of the shorter blocks (6ich) i have never replaced the paper on them. (mind you i have ony done 4-5 cars using their product (customer request) but it doesn't wear the paper out nor clog much that a nylon brush can't remove with a swipe or 3. I use to think of eastwood like most would harbor freight (you get what ya pay for type thing which meant junk). Guess their decades of making money from us poor guys (well you in the states) they invested into better and better quality. I will say though...do not buy based on their made in the USA and think you are supporting domestic manufacturing as its a minimal requirement to be met to label something as made in the USA.
If you're in the middle of sanding back filler, what can you do to stop any exposed fresh metal areas from rusting, for us hobbyist who have to wait till next weekend before we can get back onto the car?
Great question. We typically coat the bare areas with epoxy primer to preserve the corrosion barrier. You don't want to use anything oily or waxy, that will just cause problems later. One thing that can help is to minimize the exposure to humidity while the steel is exposed. We've been told by an aluminum repair parts company that simply covering the work at the end of the day with a moisture barrier - like a plastic / nylon tarp - can keep the air's moisture off the work and reduce the opportunity for corrosion to occur. A dehumidifier or air conditioner helps remove the humidity as well. If this is done, we'd still scuff the bare spots with a scotchbrite pad or fine sandpaper before spraying epoxy. Hope this helps a bit!
Same problem, take a class and after you work on it, it sits a week, outside...Rustoleum Rattle can primer sucks. Supposedly, Duplicolor "filler" in a spray can works ? Chris (in class) said it does, so am going to try that.... I have also seen Transtar in a rattle can...I used rattle can self etch, but that was junk too.... I have also used cold galvanizing compound rattle can too that says it is 90+% zinc..it's only on about a week, seems to work....sands off super easy
How Many times did this car recieve an overall Hand applied Sanding process 4 or 5 Complete Block/Nut & Bolt sanding Execution's ? My god where's my car at ? oh were hand Block sanding it again.🎭
guess im just to old school but i preffer 15s maximum 17s on classics but i guess to stand shoulder to shoulder with the big car show guys ya have to have those big tonka toy wheels
Mixing on cardboard is not the best. The worst in this video was stirring the filler. NEVER stir filler! Fold it. You'll add air to filler and cause pin holes.
i like tha fact that you guys dont to totaly the same routes like chip foose but keep the cars somewhat old school but with a modern twist if you will dont go APE with over detailing the cars keeping them nice but not so nice that you cant drive them
I've worked in many bodyshops and dealers. there was always someone using cardboard especially the master body man. The only cardboard that is a no no is the one with wax on it.
There are so many variables in a paint job, it's always best to chat with the customer about expectations and the current condition of the car first. We invite you to contact us at www.v8speedshop.com or 314.783.8325 to discuss your goals. Thank you for the kind words!
We suppose, if we were going for "OK." This one went on to score 992 / 1000 in the Modified class at the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals and was a 2-time SEMA car. As we mentioned, about 90% of the filler was sanded off, just there to refine all the new panels.
Thanks for checking in with us, Pete! You know the routine on high-level show cars, you spread them and block them, spread them and block them, and you'll leave what… 5% of the material on the car? This was even after much new sheetmetal. Anyway, this one still looks great over a decade later, 2 SEMA Show appearances, high scores at the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals, and a couple magazine features and catalog appearances. Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate your show, great information and some good laughs along the way. Happy Veterans Day Sir!
@1:54 your mixing filler on cardboard, this has been a topic of debate among some UA-cam garage gang members the argument is that the cardboard absorbs some of the oils of the filler and fibers of the cardboard can lift and become part of the filler , sheet metal/old quarter glass/plastic is recommended
Contact the V8 Speed & Resto Shop to build or upgrade YOUR ride - (314) 783-8325 www.v8speedshop.com
These guys are good. They actually take pride in their work and the process. I just did a 69 with some of my students at the training center I run for Mike's Auto Body, the company I work for. This is the exact same process I showed them with bodywork, polyester feather-fill, sealer, base coat, clear, block sand 600 wet, clear again! Car is glass!
Hugger Orange with cameo white rally stripes. Glass! 👌🏼💦💯👍🏼
@@1totheright SOLID !
Pay the body work guy some more money. He is brilliant at his job. He’s the sort of bloke that’s an asset.
I used polyester on my 64 using my spray gun and a big tip. Car looks like glass it's so smooth it's the first thing people compliment at car shows.
Mixed filler on cardboard for 20+ years not a problem...
Very talented guy. Looks amazing.
This is true to some degree. For the smaller applications, we use Clean Sheet boards with their wax-paper type composition. However, for the larger mixes, Nathan likes "seasoned" cardboard, in which he leaves a coat of filler hardened on the cardboard to form a barrier, then mixes the big load over that. Clean sheet metal works as well.
I know this is an old post but people looking for advice or knowledge will read comments and get false info. The comments regarding mixing filler on cardboard are false. This come from the idea that the polyester resin will somehow soak into the cardboard and take away from the integrity of the filler. This simply will not happen fast enough to degrade any qualities of the filler. You would have to leave the filler on the cardboard for a far longer period of time than it would take you to mix and use the filler. Use the cardboard it will make zero difference. Any manufacturer info on advising against it is to limit liability against ignorant usage. Also stirring filler is also perfectly fine. The idea is you’re creating air and making pinholes when stirred. This is also mostly false. Pinholes are created mostly from improper application, to much hardener or just cheap filler. Stirring filler almost never is done fast enough to aerate the filler. When mixing on the mixing board,final mix by using one side of the spreader twisting and folding to start the first part of proper application in getting cavities of air out. If you’re spreading proper amounts, thin layers at a time, you will be pressing out major pinholes as you spread. Any pinholes left will simply be part of the process of body work. It’s up to you to find them and deal with them accordingly. Also people looking to use spray filler(spray poly,spray filler) should know you need a poly gun or with a fluid tip of 2.0-2.5 to use the product efficiently. The 3m accuspray gun and til system is good for beginners. One gun, and plenty of tips to handle every phase of the processes. I was giving this gun by 3m to demo and test before it was made available. We used it for all sprayable products on a Ferrari BB512 from poly to clear coat. It’s not %100 preferred but it will get the job done for far cheaper than buying multiple guns. Use cardboard, stir your filler, mix hardener correctly, apply properly and enjoy.
Thanks for sharing, nice work.
Beautiful body work
Great point, perhaps we'll address this in a Viewer Mail episode!
I think a total of 7 or 8 were used, with probably 90% of it sanded off. It seems kinda ridiculous, but that's what it takes to make 'em laser straight.
To Nathan you are a super commited painter/artist what was your last self painted car like and where do you get the patience/inspiration from ??
Thanks man, we try not to "lose" the car. This one has lots of character, and lots of elements that keep ties to the heritage. It will be a very nice car, but one built to drive... hard!
The only thing I seen Nathan do wrong was mix bondo on cardboard that's a no, no Nathan! nice job tho very rare to see a professional in this industry... very rare.
This Nathan fellow sure is thorough! much respect
We're not a fan of "Tonka Toy" wheels either. This car is getting 17s in front, 18s in the rear, with enough tire to fill the wells without looking disproportionate. We're also running a cool retro wheel style and custom redlined tires, so it all looks right. Thanks for the feedback, we always like to hear what people think.
great tip on the saw zaw blade. Lots of those old cars already have filler there already.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Nathan is amazing! What's the dollar total for this level of body work and paint? Or to make it easier, for just what Nathan did?
Nathan worked very hard on this car. As for the dollar value, each car is different, and they all take a different amount of time. Our shop bills like most resto shops, for time and materials. We respect each owner's privacy regarding the financials, but you're free to contact us and we can discuss your project!
love the cragars on there but with the cars ive seen you guys build so far something tells me they arent staying
I know this is an older post but I'm curious on what Nathan had mixed with the body filler? I see filler and blue hardener but it seems like the filler flows so well. Would that be honey or fiberglass resin mixed in? I'd love to be able to spread a panel like that.
It was the filler used. Huge difference in body fillers. Watch video again and you'll see what brand he used. Good stuff!
If some sort of finishing filler. It's a lot finner then normal filler. but mix them both together and it flow a lot better
give you a hint. He makes it clear he is advertising 3M, Evercoat has great fillers as well that glide on a panel. Im in Canada ( the country thats going to hell in a hand basket, TY TurdDoh) and unless im not aware of a dealer here for eastwood. I have ordered a few cans of ech of their fillers and they are an amazing product as well. If I were in the US and got free shipping I'd use their products a lot more. Their highbuild primer surfacer is better than evercoat or 3m imo. I have a drawer of durablocks and soft sanders that I have labeled eastwood on it. With exception of the shorter blocks (6ich) i have never replaced the paper on them. (mind you i have ony done 4-5 cars using their product (customer request) but it doesn't wear the paper out nor clog much that a nylon brush can't remove with a swipe or 3.
I use to think of eastwood like most would harbor freight (you get what ya pay for type thing which meant junk). Guess their decades of making money from us poor guys (well you in the states) they invested into better and better quality.
I will say though...do not buy based on their made in the USA and think you are supporting domestic manufacturing as its a minimal requirement to be met to label something as made in the USA.
Looks like Nathan did all the work, and you talked .
If you're in the middle of sanding back filler, what can you do to stop any exposed fresh metal areas from rusting, for us hobbyist who have to wait till next weekend before we can get back onto the car?
Great question. We typically coat the bare areas with epoxy primer to preserve the corrosion barrier. You don't want to use anything oily or waxy, that will just cause problems later. One thing that can help is to minimize the exposure to humidity while the steel is exposed. We've been told by an aluminum repair parts company that simply covering the work at the end of the day with a moisture barrier - like a plastic / nylon tarp - can keep the air's moisture off the work and reduce the opportunity for corrosion to occur. A dehumidifier or air conditioner helps remove the humidity as well. If this is done, we'd still scuff the bare spots with a scotchbrite pad or fine sandpaper before spraying epoxy. Hope this helps a bit!
Same problem, take a class and after you work on it, it sits a week, outside...Rustoleum Rattle can primer sucks. Supposedly, Duplicolor "filler" in a spray can works ? Chris (in class) said it does, so am going to try that.... I have also seen Transtar in a rattle can...I used rattle can self etch, but that was junk too.... I have also used cold galvanizing compound rattle can too that says it is 90+% zinc..it's only on about a week, seems to work....sands off super easy
Correct-a-mundo my friend. The Cragars are temporary for the build, as they won't clear the brakes.
Is what name body filler do you use and do you have a part number
nice work. A factory camaro had huge gaps especially doors
My Grandpa had one of these beauties.
Typically 600 grit before sealer & base coat, but you'll see that in the next video.
@Maxid- probably a $25-30k paint job. That's all.
How Many times did this car recieve an overall Hand applied Sanding process 4 or 5 Complete Block/Nut & Bolt sanding Execution's ? My god where's my car at ? oh were hand Block sanding it again.🎭
Why put bondo all over a perfect strait car is it because all body parts are aftermarket and not original?
All of this work adds up to a very expensive vehicle! I can live with some imperfections!
call me crazy but i think the car looked great in primer with the cragars.
Awesome site guys. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work! How many hours of sanding was there
Many... many... many hours of sanding! Thanks for the kind words!
Did He mixed the bando with resin?
cool wing thanks for the tips!
guess im just to old school but i preffer 15s maximum 17s on classics but i guess to stand shoulder to shoulder with the big car show guys ya have to have those big tonka toy wheels
What grit did you wet sand the final primer too?
Mixing on cardboard is not the best. The worst in this video was stirring the filler. NEVER stir filler! Fold it. You'll add air to filler and cause pin holes.
i like tha fact that you guys dont to totaly the same routes like chip foose but keep the cars somewhat old school but with a modern twist if you will dont go APE with over detailing the cars keeping them nice but not so nice that you cant drive them
What size tip did you use for the poly?
I've worked in many bodyshops and dealers. there was always someone using cardboard especially the master body man. The only cardboard that is a no no is the one with wax on it.
Show!!!
is the next video out yet? amazing work
Greta video
whats the song at 8.48? i sonds familiar.
See below...
Wow great job ! How much to paint 69 Camaroe
There are so many variables in a paint job, it's always best to chat with the customer about expectations and the current condition of the car first. We invite you to contact us at www.v8speedshop.com or 314.783.8325 to discuss your goals. Thank you for the kind words!
V8TV I will call, Have a 1969 Camaroe Black with white stripes, Garage kept, Body perfect
@@edstransitscott9186 Excellent, we are here from 8-5 Central time M-F and will be happy to chat! Sounds like a cool car! Thank you!
V8TV You guys in St Louis area ?
@@edstransitscott9186 Yes sir. Just over the river in Red Bud, IL. Transport services available, we've sent cars all over the world!
The Bondo buggy wouldn't the right kind of paint and a little bit of Bondo here and there would have made that car look okay
We suppose, if we were going for "OK." This one went on to score 992 / 1000 in the Modified class at the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals and was a 2-time SEMA car. As we mentioned, about 90% of the filler was sanded off, just there to refine all the new panels.
Can we say --- BONDO BUGGY?? GeeeeSUS!.. The video shoulda been named -- HOW TO BUILD A BONDO BUGGY!
Thanks for checking in with us, Pete! You know the routine on high-level show cars, you spread them and block them, spread them and block them, and you'll leave what… 5% of the material on the car? This was even after much new sheetmetal. Anyway, this one still looks great over a decade later, 2 SEMA Show appearances, high scores at the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals, and a couple magazine features and catalog appearances.
Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate your show, great information and some good laughs along the way. Happy Veterans Day Sir!
good one
Easy stuff if you have 40k to blow.
@1:54 your mixing filler on cardboard, this has been a topic of debate among some UA-cam garage gang members the argument is that the cardboard absorbs some of the oils of the filler and fibers of the cardboard can lift and become part of the filler , sheet metal/old quarter glass/plastic is recommended
Mud hog!!!!!!!!!! 🤣 I love it 😎
nobody follows that rule I been in differ rent shops and at least someone is using cardboard. I don't like it i use a steel cookie sheet.
I tell people anything can be done so how deep is your pockets. So there dreams change and they want the 5k job. Not 20k job.
😂😂😂😂 using cardboard and STIRRING body filler... no sir...