Balancing & Replacing Sliding Door Cable - T1N Sprinter Sliding Door Repairs Pt. 2
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video, Bill helps Kirk fix more sliding door annoyances on his 2005 Vista Cruiser.
Bill shows you how to
- Align the door hinges
- Remove the back latch and cable
- Balance the door
- Spray foam the door rattle away!
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Music from bensound.com
My 06' Sprinter door is stuck shut, and these videos have been really useful for learning how the mechanisms work! Thanks Florida Van Man. Hoping to have better luck on it tomorrow.
How did it go? Have you tried having someone pull the inside handle and hold it while someone else pulls the outside handle?
@@FloridaVanMan I have not! I'll give that a go! :O
I'm still tweaking the adjustments, but my door slides SO MUCH Better than before.
Holy bike rack Batman 😁
Greetings and regards from Belgium. You are a perfect person. Thank you for your information.
Yes, I have been waiting for this !
Thanks so much for directing me to this tutorial. I'm sure it will help me immensely to fix my non latching issue.
You are hereby known as Sprinter God!!!
My sprinter sliding door does this! Holy cow, so glad I found this
Glad we could help! We also have another sliding door video if you haven't seen that yet: ua-cam.com/video/d5zZZpIwFGQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for your videos. This one will definitely help me out. Started to Give up completely 😪
When all the patience I've got, just ain't enough, it seems to work if I "give-up" the battle and come back in a day or three for a fresh fight. It is not like a war... more like raising a teenager. No losers if we keep learning about them and fighting to make them the best they can be. :)
@@FloridaVanMan good way of looking at things 👌
Please show how to work your magic on the rear door dock not catching. Sprinter whisperer, respect.
Hey, thanks for the jinx! Cruising at highway speed my back door came open a few days ago. I guess we will be making that video you request. LOL Is it just the first to open door?
The whipped cream to stop the rattle, never would've though of that.
Whipped Cream? LOL Might not work as well as crack filler.
Great info.
Love the music...great addition to watching.
Thanks for watching!
Crazy looking extension or bit on that drill and I've never seen a socket wrench with a protrusion on the top for hand torq! What sort of tools are these, this is madness
Yes, my 3/8 short extension has a big wheel for hand spinning. It wasn't needed here I just didn't bother to take it off. The ratchet is a handy one. Sold as Husky Tools, it has a 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive on a single handle without needing adaptors. It is Super handy some times with a different socket on each side or just a long extension on the back side to align and hold.
This video, like all you put out, is great. I have an 02 t1n that I had purchased a used new slider for. The body shoppe put on the new door after they did body work on the side. The door has a huge gap on the right side and on the bottom but more on the receiving end. After 4 x bringing back to them they gave my $ back and I am left with the problem. Would I try these adjustments to fix that? 🤔 desperate to fix this so I can get on with my DIY build. Thank you in advance
🙏
Yes, these adjustments should fix that gap, assuming you have there proper door rollers on the door. amzn.to/3m9KUrw
@@FloridaVanMan the rollers that are on the new used door has the rollers from the original door. I will try to work on this tomorrow and see if I can fix this. I am shaking my head that the body shoppe could NOT fix it. ( and made it worse) 🤦🏻♀️
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your response and knowledge. Fingers crossed I can fix the gaping crack.
Спасибо за видео. И привет из России🤙
Aren’t there any water drain holes in the bottom of the door that you sealed up with the construction foam? Water will stay inside the door and it’ll rust from inside out pretty quick I guess..
The canned foam is not NEAR that good at filling the voids. The rattle cans produce swollen worms that don't get down in the bottom narrow space, leaving plenty of room for water to flow horizontally between the two drains. We would need to try really hard to obstruct all vertical passages, so any water that gets in can still reach the drains. But no water should get into the sliding door. Front doors with aging weather seals and windows that go up/down will get water in them. This type of window in the slider should* not leak like standard car-door windows.
Buen vídeo 👌 gracias.
how do you clean the sliding door contacts? I have to lock my doors twice to get my van to lock. And even after I do this, the sliding door never locks, unless I put the key in the sliding door lock and manually lock. thanks in advance.
Clean the brass buttons on the back of the sliding door and the plates in the door jam with a little sand paper. I Don't suggest using steel wool unless you disconnect the battery first. If cleaning them does not work you might have a broken wire inside the door or the jam. The plastic around the brass pieces will pop out of the walls so you can work on the wires behind them.
Nice job!! my door some time its smout want is rain and dry condition is ok but not smout!! do you have a idea?
@Florida Van Man Hey Bill. So I have a slider on a 2005 that is closing and latching just fine, except there is about a half inch gap at the front. I have the top and bottom rollers all the way in and it still wont close and seal in the front. Any thoughts? do I just need to load the parts cannon and fire a new set of rollers at the thing?
Nooooo! Gap at the front, it the door too far back or too far out? If the door doesn't come forward far enough that will be an adjustment in the rear roller. Move it backward in the door. If it sticks out away from the fan it is the lower front guide and the aluminum cups in the door jam.
@@FloridaVanMan The middle rear roller is all the way back, and the top and bottom rollers are collapsed to be as short as possible. There is a dent in the door, but it seems to be only in the skin of the door. Is there a way to shim the whole middle track forward?
The back latch on my side door doesn't seem to be catching. Door worked perfect for a long time with no issues. Have to use my shoulder to get it to latch. Tried wd40 and cycling the latch latch seems to be fine. No damage to any striker's. What would be the next step?
I would need to look at it, to see what is going on. New rollers sometimes help. As the rollers turn that corner at the last second, they lean on the rollers differently. Replacing tases does mean starting over on the balancing act.
@@FloridaVanMan will have a look thanks for the advise. Your welcome to cone have a look yourself if your ever in ireland ha
@@Newmarketonfergus I'll send you a travel quote. lol Ireland is one of the places I have never been.
Please tell me why my door will not open all the way
Easy answer, junk under the step where the bottom guide hooks under. The step can be removed but usually we can fix this with a garden hose and pokey stick. You, probably find a few pens and pencils or nails and screws, depending on van use. Open the door as far as it will then push a few inches toward closed. Flush with water while poking. Have a sandwich and do it again. Once the dirt soaks up some water it will get soft and round two will do more than you expect. Round three is optional. :O)
I have another issue. I put a swivel seat on passenger side and now the seat doesn't slide forward and back or maybe it didnt work before and I didnt notice it. Has this ever been a problem you came across.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Some passenger seats didn't have adjustments like the deluxe seats.
It's the forward and back lever. Now that I think of it . It had to have worked before as I had to move back and forth to get the seat off the base plate in order to install the swivel plate. It seems to be stuck now. I cant slide it back.🤷♀️
@@melissag7071 Maybe something is not flat. I'm curious if it will slide when you loosen the bolts that hold the seat down.
@@FloridaVanMan I tried loosening and checked to make sure that none of the bolts were too high on the track for room to slide. It got too cold last night. Hopefully today or tomorrow will be warmer to mess around with it.
Do you happen to know the parts # for the cable? We are having this exact issue with our T1N and are struggling to find a new cable replacement. Thank you!
Sorry, I didn't find the part number. We have parts vans, so I just take what I need off of one of them.
Any part got a oem Number,go to a mercedes benz dealer get the oem number ,then order it cheap on ebay, uk,de,us.(england,germany,usa).or whatever you find it cheapest..👍🤣🇺🇸🇪🇺🇬🇧
I am stuck at 12:53 balancing all those spots to get a proper sitting door.
The sheet metal where the rear / inside track meets the door is cracking apart.
Any advice?
Start with the rear-carrier bolt loose on the door. Have a friend outside the van put a 1/2 inch piece of plywood under the back edge of the door as they close it. From inside, you tighten the bolt on the rear-carrier then open the door and let the board fall out. Then adjust the front-top-carrier to level the door. The bottom carrier doesn't hold anything up/down and should be adjusted to avoid rubbing. Remember the aligning pins in the front of the door might be preventing good alignment. If the door changes direction of movement in the last millimeters of closing, look for where those are striking.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you so much, for all the videos and the response, I appreciate it a lot.
Nise walk through on the door adjustment, but Seriously, builders foam.. hope this camper is not used where corrosion is an issue... that's realy bad idea and practice..
Please explain. I've not found any credible evidence builders foam causes corrosion, but many articles conclude it does not. Crack foam will not last as long as proper polyurethane spray foam, but it is a closed cell foam that cures hard to a noncorrosive insulating agent with excellent sound absorbing properties. In diligent effort to double check my beliefs before posting this reply, I did find an article discussing the corrosive chemicals in the liquid product, uncured state. It had exceptionally bad grammar so I didn't give it much credibility.
@@FloridaVanMan i can try, english is not my native language so bear with me... it is not the foam thet causes the corotion but the entrapment of moisture and the sometimes blocking of drainage. I dont need any articles to suport my clame on this her in skandinavia, as it is widly known as fools sulution her. If it is to be used it relay on several conditions like, dranage, air sirkulation, and as you say using a close cell type, and i would awoid it anywhere that can get any slash of wather. Like the botom of doors round the wheels etc. We use butyl rubber for our sound isolation and somtimes heavy coating with lineseedoil based products like tectyl. As a note we relay hevy or road salt her in scandinavia to keep the roads with heavy trafic safe during the winter months, so this speeds upp anny corrosion issues.