Real good video. BRK does everything it supposed too. My go to knife. I have a Bushcrafter on pre-order. I liked what I saw. Like you I also have the Aurora. Yes different edge. Thank you for the video.
You made a great video! The way the lighting and filming went was great viewing! You showed its performance and discussed everything. Informative! Thank you
Great video, thank you for posting. I just purchased the Bushcrafter 2 and I’m very happy with it so far. No magnet in the sheath though? I’ll definitely have to try the original or the Gunny next time.
Good job on the review! The bushcrafter looks like a good choice. The closest thing I have to it is the Gunny but it's in A2 steel. I have a Bravo 1.25 in cpm3v and that thing can take some abuse for sure. I want to get a smaller knife like the bushcrafter or similar to the Gunny in 3V sometime.
They’re going to release an Aurora scandi in cru-wear very soon. That would be my holy grail knife... you should buy that one when it comes out. Go to knivesshipfree.com and dlttrading.com, and subscribe to their emails if you haven’t already, so when they drop that knife you can get oune quickly
VERY GOOD VIDEO AND AN EXCELLENT BUSHCRAFT KNIFE. UNFORTUNATELY, THESE KIND OF KNIVES DON'T COME TO GREECE AND WHEN THEY COME, THEY ARE TOO EXPENSIVE. HAVE A NICE DAY.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH. ALSO, I PREFER LT WRIGHT KNIVES, JEFF WHITE'S KNIVES, CONDOR, CASSTROM, TERAVA, BRISA, MANLY,, JOKER, CUDEMAN, J&V CDA, RJ EVANS, OF COURSE MORA, DULOS KNIVES FROM BULGARIA, JN HANDMADE FROM GREECE, WOOD JEWEL, MARTIINI TUNDRA AND THE AMAZING BEAVER KNIVES FROM RUSSIA. THAT'S WHY, I ' M A BADMAN.
Haven’t tried the tundra. (If you’re referring to the mini tundra, I think it would be just like the aurora, but with more height in the blade. So I’d definitely recommend that.) I still recommend the aurora over the Bushcrafter or Bushcrafter 2. It’s just, a good design. But you need to decide what’s right for you. God bless
Looks like a good knife I'm going to buy one now Looks at the price OK I'm going to buy one but it will take a few years of saving some change before I can is all LOL
The height, not width, but height seems a bit on the small side. Seems to be the case with most Bark River. Nicely shaped handle though. Some other companies makes higher but to slim handles.
So what would You choose if You could have only one - Aurora or Bushcrafter? For the woods only ofcourse. How big is a difference in removing a wood massive/carving/slicing through? /Alex
Hey, thanks for the question! I’ll answer that simply for you... the Aurora. Because it’s a more efficient knife, and is more comfortable from the factory.
(Once putting a good edge on each knife) The difference is noticeable. The Aurora can remove wood 50% faster, and the handle is more comfortable, letting you apply more pressure, and a thinner grind, making it about twice as efficient at the Bushcrafter The Bushcrafter though has an easier grind to maintain (less height of the convex that needs to be sharpened to keep the shape of edge maintained, see my comparison of different grinds video) and should be a little more durable... But I think you be happiest with an Aurora
I don’t think so... I actually had my Aurora blade shortened about 5/8” because it was a little long (for my preference) and it is now paired with my hatchet, which is a gransfors wildlife hatchet. Makes a perfect combo!
I have to admit but I cringed when you did the point test it was like " now I will demonstrate how to break the tip from a $300 knife "just wondering but how was the edge after all the batoning , and did you resharpen between each procedure?
The edge took no damage actually during the first segment (before the bowdrill) which really surprised me... actually I was blown away that there were no chips or rolls after cross-batoning! But, because I’m me, I wanted to put my own edge on it, and remove the “burnt edge” so I used my gransfors axe puck to remove the”burnt” steel off the whole bevel evenly, and used my 3000 grit strop to finish it to a sharp edge, and used the 6000 grit strop to really shine it up. Then I made that bowdrill kit, got an ember, and continued testing with my new edge. And it has absolutely no visible damage to the edge. Also passed the finger nail test, where you drag the tip of your nail down the blade so feel for any discernible imperfections in the edge. It’s gliding through magazine paper like the wind through a hammock on a cold night... The scand-convex grind is thicker behind the edge than the Aurora, and 3V is tougher than Cru-Wear, so I gave that tip abuse that I would refrain from with my Aurora. The 3V and scandi-convex grind was also easier to maintain than the Aurora’s full convex (more surface area to sharpen) and Cru-Wear (which has higher edge retention which also makes it harder to sharpen) All in all, I’m very impressed with the Bushcrafter... but the Aurora is a nicer knife, and just cuts better than the Bushcrafter
You are correct, but when they “grind” the bevel (on a belt) the very surface of the steel and apex of the edge loses its heat treatment (we’re talking an extremely thin layer of steel) so, by hand sharpening you can remove that thin layer of “burnt” steel, and get down to the properly heat treated steel. Anything sharpened on a grinder or belt will have a “burnt” edge. Not a flaw of the knife, or the heat treat. Just a fact of factory edges, they’re all burnt. If you don’t understand how the edge can be burnt, but the heat treat of the knife still be good, it’s simple at this: when you burn your hand on the stove, it’s only the skin, or what was in contact that gets burnt, but your whole hand won’t be cooked, it’ll be the same temperature as before being burnt. So only the very surface of your hand is burnt by the stove, and with a knife, only the very surface of the steel will become burnt when hit on a grinding belt. Hand sharpening produces no heat on the surface at all, whatsoever. So you hand sharpen to remove a burnt edge. Just trust me, it might be confusing, but all knives come with a burnt edge from the factory from high-speed belt sharpeners, and hand sharpening them multiple times will remove the burnt edge. Then you’ll see the true performance of the steel.
I have same knife w/ desert iron wood mosaic pin , It's my favorite knife , but the grind from Bark river not very good, way too fat , have too regrind a bit with water stone for real good performance in carving, thx for you vid
If you wanted something thinner, the Aurora would’ve been your knife... (I have the Aurora in Cru-wear with desert Ironwood and mosaic pins, theres a review of it on my channel) The Bushcrafter is thicker, but it also is a bit stronger, and noticeable more stable at the edge, and won’t take damage as easily as the thinner grinds. I wouldn’t reprofile it too much, but I would remove the factory edge and put my own, more polished edge on it. But it isn’t “way too fat” just my opinion though, I understand it’s not ground like an Aurora Hope you enjoy it brother, Thanks for watching, and God bless
Prestonscott536 i'm agree with you, i have the aurora cru wear too, it's a very good slicer , but i prefer the bushcrafter, just the lenght and the handle is perfect for me . Maybe grind differ from knife it s semi custom so .... your's look very fine in your vidéo, but mine don't have this smooth cut i like to feel, just Way too hard to make feather and i don't like that,so i just reduce the angle and polished the bevel, and i think he is still very tuff and Won't take dammage at all , aniway i have to test this beauty ! Cheers !
My Aurora was a little long for me, so I had them shorten the blade 5/8 of an inch and lower the tip... made it perfect. I completely understand where you’re coming from though. Thanks for your time, God Bless
Not a fan of the magnet-in-the-sheath gimmick...put a magnet on a metal surface (say, your fridge door) and compare the force it takes to slide it along the surface (easy) vs. pulling it straight off (hard). The sheath magnet is the former...I'd call it a misapplication of magnet technology. Better to glue some strips of e.g. bicycle or tennis racket handle grip tape into the mouth of the sheath when it starts to loosen up. Done that to a bunch of BRK sheaths and it works much better than the magnet (I've actually removed them from the sheaths that had them - more of a bother than useful). That said, good review. I have the knife and agree with your assessment. Tough workhorse of a knife. Not much of a slicer, though. For all-round purposes the ULB or Mini Kephart are better.
Alrighty, I’ll just see how it holds up for me. I can feel the magnet aiding in retention though for sure on mine, and I do like that. But I see where you’re coming from. Good comment sir. A deeper carry in the sheath, would solve all the problems though... Wasn’t supposed to be a review... I’ll do that this fall or winter once I’ve really used the knife enough to offer an accurate review. Thanks for watching, God bless ya!
Hey brother, so you know the BRK Bushcrafter knife. It has a skandivex grind. Now tell me how you TRULY sharpen a convex skandi grind. It is not possible. I'll stick to my flat Skandi. Tell me.differently that you can magically sharpen a convex skandi in CPM3v. No way you are sharpening it effectively.
Not necessarily easy to cut, many wet woods are so much easier to cut than dry cedar. But almost all I have is cedar, and Oak around my parts 😂 no knife can really do much with oak wet or dry... nor wet cedar, cause that yellow looking part in wet cedar is very tough. So what you saw me working with in this video is about the only thing I’d work with with this knife, around my area :) hatchet and saw handle the rest unless it’s something small.... Good observation though! I didn’t really give any backstory on why I only showed it with that wood, I’ll admit that in it’s own right discredits this video as a useful test video to anyone who isn’t working with the same, or very similar wood... but I really don’t care for test videos anymore 😂 always lots of comments like these and I don’t want to be a jerk and not reply to them.... but it takes a lot of my time to reply in detail.. anyway though, God bless
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
Real good video. BRK does everything it supposed too. My go to knife. I have a Bushcrafter on pre-order. I liked what I saw. Like you I also have the Aurora. Yes different edge. Thank you for the video.
👍 I like my Bark River Bushcrafter as well.
You made a great video! The way the lighting and filming went was great viewing! You showed its performance and discussed everything. Informative! Thank you
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it.
Great video, thank you for posting. I just purchased the Bushcrafter 2 and I’m very happy with it so far.
No magnet in the sheath though?
I’ll definitely have to try the original or the Gunny next time.
Just the kind of review that makes a difference to many of us. Thanks!
good knife indeed🙂👍❤️🇱🇹
handle being thinner towards the blade allows for pinch grips for more controlled cuts/carving slices etc.
Looks like cedar. The best for starting fire. And ease of splitting.
Great work Preston-536 great technique for the different drills.
Complimenti,ottimo lavoro e un coltello stupendo👍👍👍
These super steels are nice, but what about sharpening in the field? Where is that category? No one ever shows how hard they are to sharpen.
Wonderful video bro. Did you pay for the waterproofing sheath option that made the sheath leather darker? Or did u do that yourself
Great video dude, I'm definitely gonna have to get me one
Thanks Jimmy! You can’t go wrong with this knife
Good job on the review! The bushcrafter looks like a good choice. The closest thing I have to it is the Gunny but it's in A2 steel. I have a Bravo 1.25 in cpm3v and that thing can take some abuse for sure. I want to get a smaller knife like the bushcrafter or similar to the Gunny in 3V sometime.
They’re going to release an Aurora scandi in cru-wear very soon. That would be my holy grail knife... you should buy that one when it comes out.
Go to knivesshipfree.com and dlttrading.com, and subscribe to their emails if you haven’t already, so when they drop that knife you can get oune quickly
And have them shorten the blade 5/8 of an inch
@@prestonscott5367 I'm on their email list. They're coming out with an Aurora 3 sometime this year too!
👍
@@jeffsmith6441 i saw that! Aurora 3 in 3v sounds incredible!
Awesome video brother ✊
Very nice knife as they have many clubs due to good knives....Good stuff.....
Yeah, thanks for watching
nice vid man. thinking about that bush craft for sure!
Thanks brother
Me too. Its different! Would be intetesting to use. Also the Ultralight and the Bushcrafter II
Awesome vid
Thanks man, I appreciate the support!
That's an awesome knife! That blade is beefy. When shtf I want you on my team brother! You have serious skills!
Thanks man, I appreciate it. How are you doing lately?
@@prestonscott5367 I'm doing ok. Jimmy has some info from Instagram. Great review and editing on this video!
Thanks it was fun to shoot this video. Glad you’re doing ok.
Great vídeo!🇧🇷
Thanks!
New friend here!!! Heard about you from Insight Freedom!! God Bless!
Hey 😁 thanks for coming over here, I really appreciate it! Hope to see you around
Prestonscott536 No problem!!! A friend of Insight Freedom is a friend of ours! Can’t wait to see more!!
Thanks for the support
Great testing video. Everything you want to know. Can you make a sharpening video from it?
Thanks bud, possibly soon
VERY GOOD VIDEO AND AN EXCELLENT BUSHCRAFT KNIFE. UNFORTUNATELY, THESE KIND OF KNIVES DON'T COME TO GREECE AND WHEN THEY COME, THEY ARE TOO EXPENSIVE. HAVE A NICE DAY.
Larry you are a Badman, very badman.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH. ALSO, I PREFER LT WRIGHT KNIVES, JEFF WHITE'S KNIVES, CONDOR, CASSTROM, TERAVA, BRISA, MANLY,, JOKER, CUDEMAN, J&V CDA, RJ EVANS, OF COURSE MORA, DULOS KNIVES FROM BULGARIA, JN HANDMADE FROM GREECE, WOOD JEWEL, MARTIINI TUNDRA AND THE AMAZING BEAVER KNIVES FROM RUSSIA. THAT'S WHY, I ' M A BADMAN.
You still recommend the aurora over the bushcrafter or bushcrafter 2? Have you tried the bark river tundra?
Haven’t tried the tundra. (If you’re referring to the mini tundra, I think it would be just like the aurora, but with more height in the blade. So I’d definitely recommend that.) I still recommend the aurora over the Bushcrafter or Bushcrafter 2. It’s just, a good design. But you need to decide what’s right for you. God bless
Prestonscott536 much appreciated. Hope is all well where your at. Take care!
Looks like a good knife I'm going to buy one now
Looks at the price
OK I'm going to buy one but it will take a few years of saving some change before I can is all LOL
Get it!
The height, not width, but height seems a bit on the small side. Seems to be the case with most Bark River. Nicely shaped handle though. Some other companies makes higher but to slim handles.
Yeah, the mini tundra has a better height to it... the Aurora and bushcraft don’t have a lot of height to the blades
So what would You choose if You could have only one - Aurora or Bushcrafter? For the woods only ofcourse. How big is a difference in removing a wood massive/carving/slicing through? /Alex
Hey, thanks for the question! I’ll answer that simply for you... the Aurora. Because it’s a more efficient knife, and is more comfortable from the factory.
(Once putting a good edge on each knife) The difference is noticeable. The Aurora can remove wood 50% faster, and the handle is more comfortable, letting you apply more pressure, and a thinner grind, making it about twice as efficient at the Bushcrafter
The Bushcrafter though has an easier grind to maintain (less height of the convex that needs to be sharpened to keep the shape of edge maintained, see my comparison of different grinds video) and should be a little more durable...
But I think you be happiest with an Aurora
@@prestonscott5367 so would you consider getting your hands on an Aurora 2?
I don’t think so... I actually had my Aurora blade shortened about 5/8” because it was a little long (for my preference) and it is now paired with my hatchet, which is a gransfors wildlife hatchet. Makes a perfect combo!
I’m satisfied with my Aurora, I think the big one might get too thin behind the edge.... since it’s a taller grind.
Looks very durable and versatile, are the scales micarta or wood?
Desert Ironwood and red liners. Beautiful combination
I have to admit but I cringed when you did the point test it was like " now I will demonstrate how to break the tip from a $300 knife "just wondering but how was the edge after all the batoning , and did you resharpen between each procedure?
The edge took no damage actually during the first segment (before the bowdrill) which really surprised me... actually I was blown away that there were no chips or rolls after cross-batoning!
But, because I’m me, I wanted to put my own edge on it, and remove the “burnt edge” so I used my gransfors axe puck to remove the”burnt” steel off the whole bevel evenly, and used my 3000 grit strop to finish it to a sharp edge, and used the 6000 grit strop to really shine it up.
Then I made that bowdrill kit, got an ember, and continued testing with my new edge. And it has absolutely no visible damage to the edge. Also passed the finger nail test, where you drag the tip of your nail down the blade so feel for any discernible imperfections in the edge.
It’s gliding through magazine paper like the wind through a hammock on a cold night...
The scand-convex grind is thicker behind the edge than the Aurora, and 3V is tougher than Cru-Wear, so I gave that tip abuse that I would refrain from with my Aurora.
The 3V and scandi-convex grind was also easier to maintain than the Aurora’s full convex (more surface area to sharpen) and Cru-Wear (which has higher edge retention which also makes it harder to sharpen)
All in all, I’m very impressed with the Bushcrafter... but the Aurora is a nicer knife, and just cuts better than the Bushcrafter
@@prestonscott5367 it shouldn't have a burnt edge. They grind the bevel after heat treat
You are correct, but when they “grind” the bevel (on a belt) the very surface of the steel and apex of the edge loses its heat treatment (we’re talking an extremely thin layer of steel) so, by hand sharpening you can remove that thin layer of “burnt” steel, and get down to the properly heat treated steel. Anything sharpened on a grinder or belt will have a “burnt” edge.
Not a flaw of the knife, or the heat treat. Just a fact of factory edges, they’re all burnt.
If you don’t understand how the edge can be burnt, but the heat treat of the knife still be good, it’s simple at this: when you burn your hand on the stove, it’s only the skin, or what was in contact that gets burnt, but your whole hand won’t be cooked, it’ll be the same temperature as before being burnt. So only the very surface of your hand is burnt by the stove, and with a knife, only the very surface of the steel will become burnt when hit on a grinding belt. Hand sharpening produces no heat on the surface at all, whatsoever. So you hand sharpen to remove a burnt edge.
Just trust me, it might be confusing, but all knives come with a burnt edge from the factory from high-speed belt sharpeners, and hand sharpening them multiple times will remove the burnt edge. Then you’ll see the true performance of the steel.
I have same knife w/ desert iron wood mosaic pin , It's my favorite knife , but the grind from Bark river not very good, way too fat , have too regrind a bit with water stone for real good performance in carving, thx for you vid
If you wanted something thinner, the Aurora would’ve been your knife... (I have the Aurora in Cru-wear with desert Ironwood and mosaic pins, theres a review of it on my channel)
The Bushcrafter is thicker, but it also is a bit stronger, and noticeable more stable at the edge, and won’t take damage as easily as the thinner grinds. I wouldn’t reprofile it too much, but I would remove the factory edge and put my own, more polished edge on it. But it isn’t “way too fat” just my opinion though, I understand it’s not ground like an Aurora
Hope you enjoy it brother, Thanks for watching, and God bless
Prestonscott536 i'm agree with you, i have the aurora cru wear too, it's a very good slicer , but i prefer the bushcrafter, just the lenght and the handle is perfect for me .
Maybe grind differ from knife it s semi custom so .... your's look very fine in your vidéo, but mine don't have this smooth cut i like to feel, just Way too hard to make feather and i don't like that,so i just reduce the angle and polished the bevel, and i think he is still very tuff and Won't take dammage at all , aniway i have to test this beauty !
Cheers !
My Aurora was a little long for me, so I had them shorten the blade 5/8 of an inch and lower the tip... made it perfect. I completely understand where you’re coming from though. Thanks for your time, God Bless
Cheers!
@@prestonscott5367 you should try the liten bror cause its the smaller version of the aurora but not to small like thw mini aurora
Is this still the hardest steel? Best edge retention?
Cruwear likely edges it out
That's pretty soft wood
Hey man do u have a sharpening vid up? If not can u make 1 I love to watch sharpening vids and people actually using there knives
You know, I don’t have one up right now... but maybe next time I’m sharpening up something, I’ll set up a camera. Thanks for watching
dom bond
ua-cam.com/video/cnnyJM06_b0/v-deo.html
That thing bites like a Pit Bull.
Not a fan of the magnet-in-the-sheath gimmick...put a magnet on a metal surface (say, your fridge door) and compare the force it takes to slide it along the surface (easy) vs. pulling it straight off (hard). The sheath magnet is the former...I'd call it a misapplication of magnet technology. Better to glue some strips of e.g. bicycle or tennis racket handle grip tape into the mouth of the sheath when it starts to loosen up. Done that to a bunch of BRK sheaths and it works much better than the magnet (I've actually removed them from the sheaths that had them - more of a bother than useful). That said, good review. I have the knife and agree with your assessment. Tough workhorse of a knife. Not much of a slicer, though. For all-round purposes the ULB or Mini Kephart are better.
Alrighty, I’ll just see how it holds up for me. I can feel the magnet aiding in retention though for sure on mine, and I do like that. But I see where you’re coming from. Good comment sir. A deeper carry in the sheath, would solve all the problems though...
Wasn’t supposed to be a review... I’ll do that this fall or winter once I’ve really used the knife enough to offer an accurate review.
Thanks for watching, God bless ya!
Oh HELL NO! The magnetic sheath is my favorite way to carry a knife I've ever found!
Сool
Hey brother, so you know the BRK Bushcrafter knife. It has a skandivex grind. Now tell me how you TRULY sharpen a convex skandi grind. It is not possible. I'll stick to my flat Skandi. Tell me.differently that you can magically sharpen a convex skandi in CPM3v. No way you are sharpening it effectively.
Good video but that looks like dry wood. Easy to cut.
Not necessarily easy to cut, many wet woods are so much easier to cut than dry cedar. But almost all I have is cedar, and Oak around my parts 😂 no knife can really do much with oak wet or dry... nor wet cedar, cause that yellow looking part in wet cedar is very tough. So what you saw me working with in this video is about the only thing I’d work with with this knife, around my area :) hatchet and saw handle the rest unless it’s something small....
Good observation though! I didn’t really give any backstory on why I only showed it with that wood, I’ll admit that in it’s own right discredits this video as a useful test video to anyone who isn’t working with the same, or very similar wood... but I really don’t care for test videos anymore 😂 always lots of comments like these and I don’t want to be a jerk and not reply to them.... but it takes a lot of my time to reply in detail.. anyway though, God bless
@@prestonscott5367 thanks for the reply. I'm sure you did the best you could with what you had available
@@Aar0nMiami thanks buddy