Not close to you at all. I'm 4,000 Km away near Toronto. Finally got a break in the weather here so I was able to finally work on the door problem today. A nice sunny day with no wind and temp just around O degrees C. I have to do the work in my driveway because my garage is filled with other things. Everything now works like new. Doing the wire cutting and soldering was a bit tricky but it is all done. Still haven't installed the BCM properly but will be doing that tomorrow which is predicted to be a carbon copy of today. My wife is happy now so you made my day. Thanks for all your help! God Bless.
Man oh man! What a service you have performed for me! A very well done video with clear instructions and video and a no B.S. delivery. Really liked the way you described the problem at the beginning of the video. I screwed around with it and put a fresh battery in the remote. I was going to check the fuse. I'm going to do this to my 2006 Uplander soon. It has 240,000 miles on it and still runs great. It is full of valuable tools and materials and I do not wish to leave it unlocked. I also do not wish to put anymore significant money into it. Hell, I just put an oil change and new tires on it!
Thanks for the speedy reply. I have done more research on the relay and it seems wire colour means nothing since many of the relays I've recently researched have different colours connected to the same relay pins. What is always consistent is that the numbers between different relay pins agrees, #85 and #86 are the relay's coils, #87 is the normally open (NO) contact, #87a is the normally closed (NC) contact and #30 is the switched input that connects to #87 from #87a when the relay coil is energized. I hear the BCM lock relay click when I hit the door lock switch on the door so that means the relay coil is being energized. However the door actuators are not activated. This means that power is not flowing as it should through the relay from pin #30 to pin #87. You've stated that you connected coil contact #86 (black) and #87 (red) to the red/white striped wire which supplies the main fused power to the BCM which I assume is the +12v battery supply. If that is the case then the other end of the relay coil, #85 (green) must be a "triggered" ground connection in order to have 12 volts applied to the coil. This is the only way the coil can be energized in order to connect pin #30 to pin #87 which is NO. Is this correct? I just want to make sure I find the proper connection point on the BCM to solder the "trigger" wire to so I don't short something out in the BCM. BTW I picked up a relay at Princess Auto and the wire colours for the relay coil do not agree with your colours for the two coil pins, #86 is green and number #85 is black. All other colours agree with yours. I realize that the coil pin numbers are interchangeable along with the wire colours so I will stick with using the same pin numbers as you, after all the wire colour is just a piece of plastic.. I therefore will be using the black wire (#85) as my "trigger". This means I will be soldering the black wire (#85) to the BCM circuit board. Sorry to be so long winded but I just want to understand how the mechanism works. You must have a schematic of the BCM and vehicle wiring for the door locks in order to figure this one out. I have been trying to obtain such wiring schematics but am not having any luck. Thanks a bunch in advance for any help you can offer.
You are absolutely correct with all your statements. And yes, the wiring colors are not consistent on the relay harnesses for some reason, but you got it correct, you can use the black for the negative trigger from the specific location on the circuit board. I never had a schematic of anything on the vehicle, just 30 years experience with vehicle wiring and troubleshooting. One must understand how something operates by testing first and then making notes. In this specific repair, the logic is to basically install a better quality aftermarket relay to replace the faulty on board unit which failed, and it took me about an hour to figure out which wires did what and come to the conclusion that the best is to leave the BCM alone, and simply cut the grey motor(actuator) wire and feed it the power from the new heavier duty relay. Sounds like you have it all figured out, and if you need any help, I shall try to be here to answer. I am just so glad I can help others with this issue....
Thanks once again for your quick response. The reason I am so inquisitive is because I am an 80 year old "old school" Electrical Engineer and I can't seem to "let go" of trying to repair our vehicles. My wife is always telling me at my age that I should take the cars in to be be repaired. I can't seem to do it because for one thing I am too cheap. Your solution to the door lock problem without a schematic really impresses me. Maybe if I had a competent, trustworthy mechanic like you in our area I would save myself a lot of time and aggrevation. One last question for you. When I cut the actuator wire at the BCM, is it possible to apply +12v to the wire end leading to the door side and have the doors lock?
Thanks for posting this. My Terraza just developed the same issue. I am a bit nervous about cutting into the wire harness and was thinking of heading into the local picknpull and grabbing a BCM off the same model (or compatible one). Do you think that would work, or would I have to reflash the BCM? Thanks
... and to answer my own question.. it did not work in my case... went to auto salvage, retrieved an identical BCM. I plugged it into my van.. all the warning lights were illuminated as expected when initially starting, however van would not start (no clicks.. nothing, suspect it might have to do with the key chip?). It also carried over some warnings that must have been in the 'new' BCM .. such as 'change engine oil'. Once I plugged original BCM back in, the van did start. So I have to assume that I need to get the different BCM flashed to be associated with my vehicle... sigh!
@@davewilliams3985 or get keys with bcm from junkyard. I'm having same problem...2005 terraza. Interior lights wont go off, power locks disabled and no remote start☹️
@@merquryj Yeah..I should have thought of that! I had an interesting turn of events with my issue. I went to start vehicle shortly thereafter, after leaving it parked for a while, and found the battery was dead (might have to do with whenever I turn on right signal, the headlights switch to bright, likely some short, but thats another story). So I hooked up the battery charger and fully charged the battery and after that the door locks started to work. Whenever the battery gets too low, my locking issue appears. As long as I drive it for a few hours a day, it keeps the charge and locks work. If I let it sit for to long, battery seems to drain and locking issue occurs. It makes no sense to me, but it works! I guess it has personality . Good luck on sorting through your challenges!
Great video! I'm a novice at this so please be patient. I have a 2005 chevy uplander. The only lock that doesn't work is the drivers side sliding door. In fact, I can't even manually lock the door. It is frozen hard in the unlock position. Any ideas?
Have you had any problem with the rear power sliding door not closing properly? My one tries to close for a few seconds then reopens... Have not found a solution to date.
Is there a way to disable the auto locks by pulling the relay in the fuse box?Mine won't stop locking/unlocking so I'm having to take the negative off my battery when I'm parked.HELP!!!
Are you speaking about the auto lock when you put it in drive? That can be programmed out using the menu on the display. If it is locking and unlocking at random check your wiring in the drivers door boot to pillar for a short.
Delayed locking means you have to hit it twice to lock, you can change this setting thru the info center options, just remove delayed locking and see what happens. I did not have this issue or message at all because I had turned off the "delayed lock" option in the menu.
I have the exact problem you describe, ie my fob or door buttons will electrically unlock my doors but will NOT lock the doors. The only way I can lock the doors is manually. I have checked the relay schematic to see what colour wire is connected to each terminal. At approx 5:19 min into the video you state that the red and black wire should be joined together and soldered to the red/white wire that powers the bcm. The relay schematic shows the red wire is terminal #87 and the black wire is connected to terminal #85. Yet at the 6:09 min mark you state that terminal #86 and 87 should be joined together. I think this is an error since you previously stated that #86 is the trigger wire. The schematic shows that terminal #86 is connected to the green wire which you showed is soldered to the bcm circuit board. To summarize I think the connections should be as follows: Blue wire, #30, is connected to the cut grey wire which goes into the bcm Yellow wire, #87a, is connected to the cut grey wire which rins to the door actuator Green wire, #86, is soldered to bcm circuit board Red (#87) and black(#85) are joined together and soldered to the red/white bcm power wire Would you please confirm that my connections above are correct. Thanks.
Sorry for not seeing this, I will have to review the video, it's been a long time since I repaired the problem. The repair process is simply installing another aftermarket heavy duty relay to duplicate what the internal low quality one was doing when new. And without removing any of the wiring from the internal relay, I basically used the same trigger wire to trigger the better quality unit to supply power to lock the doors.
86 (Black) and 87 (Red) soldered together and go to the Red/White striped wire that supplies fused power to the BCM. Green(85) is the negative trigger wire that comes from the specific point on the circuit board through the module housing. Blue (30) connects to the cut grey wire that comes out of the BCM(door side). Yellow (87A) connects to the BCM side of the grey wire. I might have slipped up and said neg trigger goes to 86, when it should have been 85, my bad!
I just started having the same issue with my Uplander, unlock works, lock doesn't. However, I do hear the relay clicking when I'm pressing lock... Is that typical of this problem?
If none of the doors lock, the problem is the onboard relay on the circuit board as I explain in the video. The Dealers want hundreds of dollars to replace the module, so what I did was simply install another good quality relay to duplicate what the internal poor quality one was doing. If the relay is clicking this means the trigger(switch wire) is activating the relay, but the relay output circuit is the problem of not supplying the power to the door lock wires. If only one door isn't locking this is a problem of a possible broken wire running to that door, but if all aren't working, you have the same dreaded problem that I have explained a solution to in the video. I hope this helps.
I have a slightly different problem. On my 2008 Uplander, the locks work fine when I hit the lock/unlock buttons (the fob stopped working years ago) but recently they won't unlock when I throw it into Park and the dash indicator keeps telling me the driver door is open, even though it is definitely closed. Furthermore, I have to keep the interior lights off as they won't turn off when I close the doors and shut the ignition off (which it used to) if I have the interior lights in the auto mode (on the dash)...I learned this the hard way after I ran the battery down because the interior lights wouldn't turn off. Any suggestions?
Not close to you at all. I'm 4,000 Km away near Toronto. Finally got a break in the weather here so I was able to finally work on the door problem today. A nice sunny day with no wind and temp just around O degrees C. I have to do the work in my driveway because my garage is filled with other things. Everything now works like new. Doing the wire cutting and soldering was a bit tricky but it is all done. Still haven't installed the BCM properly but will be doing that tomorrow which is predicted to be a carbon copy of today.
My wife is happy now so you made my day.
Thanks for all your help! God Bless.
Man oh man! What a service you have performed for me! A very well done video with clear instructions and video and a no B.S. delivery. Really liked the way you described the problem at the beginning of the video. I screwed around with it and put a fresh battery in the remote. I was going to check the fuse. I'm going to do this to my 2006 Uplander soon. It has 240,000 miles on it and still runs great. It is full of valuable tools and materials and I do not wish to leave it unlocked. I also do not wish to put anymore significant money into it. Hell, I just put an oil change and new tires on it!
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I have done more research on the relay and it seems wire colour means nothing since many of the relays I've recently researched have different colours connected to the same relay pins. What is always consistent is that the numbers between different relay pins agrees, #85 and #86 are the relay's coils, #87 is the normally open (NO) contact, #87a is the normally closed (NC) contact and #30 is the switched input that connects to #87 from #87a when the relay coil is energized.
I hear the BCM lock relay click when I hit the door lock switch on the door so that means the relay coil is being energized. However the door actuators are not activated. This means that power is not flowing as it should through the relay from pin #30 to pin #87.
You've stated that you connected coil contact #86 (black) and #87 (red) to the red/white striped wire which supplies the main fused power to the BCM which I assume is the +12v battery supply. If that is the case then the other end of the relay coil, #85 (green) must be a "triggered" ground connection in order to have 12 volts applied to the coil. This is the only way the coil can be energized in order to connect pin #30 to pin #87 which is NO. Is this correct? I just want to make sure I find the proper connection point on the BCM to solder the "trigger" wire to so I don't short something out in the BCM.
BTW I picked up a relay at Princess Auto and the wire colours for the relay coil do not agree with your colours for the two coil pins, #86 is green and number #85 is black. All other colours agree with yours. I realize that the coil pin numbers are interchangeable along with the wire colours so I will stick with using the same pin numbers as you, after all the wire colour is just a piece of plastic.. I therefore will be using the black wire (#85) as my "trigger". This means I will be soldering the black wire (#85) to the BCM circuit board.
Sorry to be so long winded but I just want to understand how the mechanism works.
You must have a schematic of the BCM and vehicle wiring for the door locks in order to figure this one out. I have been trying to obtain such wiring schematics but am not having any luck.
Thanks a bunch in advance for any help you can offer.
You are absolutely correct with all your statements. And yes, the wiring colors are not consistent on the relay harnesses for some reason, but you got it correct, you can use the black for the negative trigger from the specific location on the circuit board. I never had a schematic of anything on the vehicle, just 30 years experience with vehicle wiring and troubleshooting. One must understand how something operates by testing first and then making notes. In this specific repair, the logic is to basically install a better quality aftermarket relay to replace the faulty on board unit which failed, and it took me about an hour to figure out which wires did what and come to the conclusion that the best is to leave the BCM alone, and simply cut the grey motor(actuator) wire and feed it the power from the new heavier duty relay. Sounds like you have it all figured out, and if you need any help, I shall try to be here to answer. I am just so glad I can help others with this issue....
Thanks once again for your quick response. The reason I am so inquisitive is because I am an 80 year old "old school" Electrical Engineer and I can't seem to "let go" of trying to repair our vehicles. My wife is always telling me at my age that I should take the cars in to be be repaired. I can't seem to do it because for one thing I am too cheap. Your solution to the door lock problem without a schematic really impresses me. Maybe if I had a competent, trustworthy mechanic like you in our area I would save myself a lot of time and aggrevation.
One last question for you. When I cut the actuator wire at the BCM, is it possible to apply +12v to the wire end leading to the door side and have the doors lock?
Yes if you cut the grey wire and apply 12 volts to the door side the doors will lock. Also, maybe I live close to you, I am in Kelowna BC.
My friend did the same vehicle it was the switch, he bought one on eBay and it worked.
good video but you don't show how to connect the relay to the bcm
@@imabushwacker where do you get the relay from???
Thanks for posting this. My Terraza just developed the same issue. I am a bit nervous about cutting into the wire harness and was thinking of heading into the local picknpull and grabbing a BCM off the same model (or compatible one). Do you think that would work, or would I have to reflash the BCM? Thanks
... and to answer my own question.. it did not work in my case... went to auto salvage, retrieved an identical BCM. I plugged it into my van.. all the warning lights were illuminated as expected when initially starting, however van would not start (no clicks.. nothing, suspect it might have to do with the key chip?). It also carried over some warnings that must have been in the 'new' BCM .. such as 'change engine oil'. Once I plugged original BCM back in, the van did start. So I have to assume that I need to get the different BCM flashed to be associated with my vehicle... sigh!
@@davewilliams3985 or get keys with bcm from junkyard. I'm having same problem...2005 terraza. Interior lights wont go off, power locks disabled and no remote start☹️
@@merquryj Yeah..I should have thought of that! I had an interesting turn of events with my issue. I went to start vehicle shortly thereafter, after leaving it parked for a while, and found the battery was dead (might have to do with whenever I turn on right signal, the headlights switch to bright, likely some short, but thats another story). So I hooked up the battery charger and fully charged the battery and after that the door locks started to work. Whenever the battery gets too low, my locking issue appears. As long as I drive it for a few hours a day, it keeps the charge and locks work. If I let it sit for to long, battery seems to drain and locking issue occurs. It makes no sense to me, but it works! I guess it has personality . Good luck on sorting through your challenges!
Great video! I'm a novice at this so please be patient. I have a 2005 chevy uplander. The only lock that doesn't work is the drivers side sliding door. In fact, I can't even manually lock the door. It is frozen hard in the unlock position. Any ideas?
Would this also work for my rear wiper on my 2005 uplander .the rear wiper does work but no power on the yellow wire on connector checked fuses
@@imabushwacker ok thank you
Do you splice the wires into the existing circuit or do you completely cut them a rerun them through the relay?
Have you had any problem with the rear power sliding door not closing properly? My one tries to close for a few seconds then reopens... Have not found a solution to date.
What year of vehicle do you have this problem with?
Is there a way to disable the auto locks by pulling the relay in the fuse box?Mine won't stop locking/unlocking so I'm having to take the negative off my battery when I'm parked.HELP!!!
Are you speaking about the auto lock when you put it in drive? That can be programmed out using the menu on the display. If it is locking and unlocking at random check your wiring in the drivers door boot to pillar for a short.
Mine doesn’t lock but also shows “delayed locking” on the screen in the gauge is that also the same issue you had?
Delayed locking means you have to hit it twice to lock, you can change this setting thru the info center options, just remove delayed locking and see what happens. I did not have this issue or message at all because I had turned off the "delayed lock" option in the menu.
I have the exact problem you describe, ie my fob or door buttons will electrically unlock my doors but will NOT lock the doors. The only way I can lock the doors is manually.
I have checked the relay schematic to see what colour wire is connected to each terminal. At approx 5:19 min into the video you state that the red and black wire should be joined together and soldered to the red/white wire that powers the bcm. The relay schematic shows the red wire is terminal #87 and the black wire is connected to terminal #85. Yet at the 6:09 min mark you state that terminal #86 and 87 should be joined together. I think this is an error since you previously stated that #86 is the trigger wire. The schematic shows that terminal #86 is connected to the green wire which you showed is soldered to the bcm circuit board.
To summarize I think the connections should be as follows:
Blue wire, #30, is connected to the cut grey wire which goes into the bcm
Yellow wire, #87a, is connected to the cut grey wire which rins to the door actuator
Green wire, #86, is soldered to bcm circuit board
Red (#87) and black(#85) are joined together and soldered to the red/white bcm power wire
Would you please confirm that my connections above are correct. Thanks.
Sorry for not seeing this, I will have to review the video, it's been a long time since I repaired the problem. The repair process is simply installing another aftermarket heavy duty relay to duplicate what the internal low quality one was doing when new. And without removing any of the wiring from the internal relay, I basically used the same trigger wire to trigger the better quality unit to supply power to lock the doors.
86 (Black) and 87 (Red) soldered together and go to the Red/White striped wire that supplies fused power to the BCM. Green(85) is the negative trigger wire that comes from the specific point on the circuit board through the module housing. Blue (30) connects to the cut grey wire that comes out of the BCM(door side). Yellow (87A) connects to the BCM side of the grey wire. I might have slipped up and said neg trigger goes to 86, when it should have been 85, my bad!
What specific relay is this? Part #? Thanks
I just started having the same issue with my Uplander, unlock works, lock doesn't. However, I do hear the relay clicking when I'm pressing lock... Is that typical of this problem?
If none of the doors lock, the problem is the onboard relay on the circuit board as I explain in the video. The Dealers want hundreds of dollars to replace the module, so what I did was simply install another good quality relay to duplicate what the internal poor quality one was doing. If the relay is clicking this means the trigger(switch wire) is activating the relay, but the relay output circuit is the problem of not supplying the power to the door lock wires. If only one door isn't locking this is a problem of a possible broken wire running to that door, but if all aren't working, you have the same dreaded problem that I have explained a solution to in the video. I hope this helps.
@@imabushwacker That helps a lot, thank you. It was the clicking relay that threw me off...
I have a slightly different problem. On my 2008 Uplander, the locks work fine when I hit the lock/unlock buttons (the fob stopped working years ago) but recently they won't unlock when I throw it into Park and the dash indicator keeps telling me the driver door is open, even though it is definitely closed. Furthermore, I have to keep the interior lights off as they won't turn off when I close the doors and shut the ignition off (which it used to) if I have the interior lights in the auto mode (on the dash)...I learned this the hard way after I ran the battery down because the interior lights wouldn't turn off. Any suggestions?
@@imabushwacker thanks so much! I’ll give it a look
My vehicle dosnt unlock but locks is there a different process it still wont unlock after following your steps
Could use help asap thanks a ton
My trunk won't unlock. An my locks wont lock or unlock. I changed the fuse but it didn't fit it
انا من العراق ومحتاج كمريسر تبريد لنفس السياره ممكن مع الشكر
Hi Does anyone have the BCM schematic diagram? May I get a copy of it for a 2007 Chev Uplander LS ?
Thank you
Brent
I personally haven't been able to find one for the BCM as it is considered a non serviceable item and is only to be replaced if faulty......
My front locks work, but not the back. Is that the same issue?
@@imabushwacker Even if it is both sides?
@@imabushwacker awesome thanks a bunch. My hatch locks and unlocks, just not the sliders. I'll have to look into taking those apart next.
Buy a roller guide assembly instead!
For a couple $’s you can pick up the door lock at pull a part
The door isn't the problem, the Body control module was!
86 negative trigger or 86 and 87 together for positive?
6:05 you confused the wires number. I did it right like you said and still not working. No lock/unlock working.
@@imabushwacker mine not lock or unlock from driver or passenger door and i don't have a remote. I have to do it manually or with the key.
@@imabushwacker I did, all good