Nice work. I would definitely change the other seal. Then you know they will have equal life and probably never have to do again as long as you own the car
Had the same problem getting my drain plug out of my G50 gearbox. I don't think it's necessarily the monkey who tightened it the previous time. I literally had to use a chisel and gouge it into the drain plug surface at and angle to get the drain plug to come loose. That being said, that was the first time I changed the gearbox oil on that car. Each subsequent time I've been able to get it out no problem. I use anti-seize on the threads.
Wow interesting. Might be the way the crush washer corrodes and sticks to the case. The oil in mine looked almost new, so it had been done recently. What oil are you using? I'm thinking of trying redline 75-90W. Supposedly works well with LSD
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I use Liqui Moly 75W-90. My car doesn’t have an LSD which, from my understanding, impacts the gearbox oil to use. I do run into issues going into 3rd gear on occasion (just replaced all shifter bushings, too), regardless of whether warm or cold. I’m open to a different oil next time for sure to see if things work better.
You may have figured this out already, you wont be able to install the transaxle on the engine and clutch with the release fork in place. As it uses a pull clutch the fork will need to be installed on the clutch release bearing first to allow the fork fingers to engage the pull grove on the release bearing. The usual method is to use a rubber band to hold the fork in place on the bearing and pressure plate. Once the trans is bolted up to the engine then the fork pivot pin is inserted in place. Not fun in a car, especially a mid engine install with transaxle inverted!
Thanks for the thumbnail picture. I was wondering if I could stuff one of these into a Beetle. Guess not until an engineer adapts a paddle shift system to a VW and the driver doesn’t mind sharing the cab with the tranny.
Curious Q: why do you always use the manual tools. Never see you using a cordless ratchet or a small impact. Just curious. Not to tighten but to losen and remove bolts.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto i have not but my experience is really only with the 901 and recently the Getrag 260 on the e30. If it’s easy enough to change- you might should do it- but I have no clue about G50s.
The dam works for 901 too. It doesn't stop a leak but it diverts the leak path down instead of ruining the clutch. It's a generic seal that goes inside the guide tube to create a dam. Then a small hole is drilled before the dam through the guide tube
Part 9 of 4. I thought this series would be finished already, ha ha😂
Adding comment for the youtube logarithm. Keep up the good work and thank you for including more attainable tasks for the DYI'ers out here.
Nice work. I would definitely change the other seal. Then you know they will have equal life and probably never have to do again as long as you own the car
Nicely done. If you're sure the other bits are not leaking, leave it alone? Naturally, "While you're in there" is calling...
This is true. I'm just glad I didn't find metal bits in the trans or a trashed differential bearing.
Great videos, always a pleasure to watch and learn 👍
Had the same problem getting my drain plug out of my G50 gearbox. I don't think it's necessarily the monkey who tightened it the previous time. I literally had to use a chisel and gouge it into the drain plug surface at and angle to get the drain plug to come loose. That being said, that was the first time I changed the gearbox oil on that car. Each subsequent time I've been able to get it out no problem. I use anti-seize on the threads.
Wow interesting. Might be the way the crush washer corrodes and sticks to the case. The oil in mine looked almost new, so it had been done recently.
What oil are you using? I'm thinking of trying redline 75-90W. Supposedly works well with LSD
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I use Liqui Moly 75W-90. My car doesn’t have an LSD which, from my understanding, impacts the gearbox oil to use. I do run into issues going into 3rd gear on occasion (just replaced all shifter bushings, too), regardless of whether warm or cold. I’m open to a different oil next time for sure to see if things work better.
You may have figured this out already, you wont be able to install the transaxle on the engine and clutch with the release fork in place. As it uses a pull clutch the fork will need to be installed on the clutch release bearing first to allow the fork fingers to engage the pull grove on the release bearing. The usual method is to use a rubber band to hold the fork in place on the bearing and pressure plate. Once the trans is bolted up to the engine then the fork pivot
pin is inserted in place. Not fun in a car, especially a mid engine install with transaxle inverted!
Understood, install is the reverse of removal. The shift fork and pin was removed then.
Thanks for the thumbnail picture. I was wondering if I could stuff one of these into a Beetle. Guess not until an engineer adapts a paddle shift system to a VW and the driver doesn’t mind sharing the cab with the tranny.
I think Porsche put this drivetrain into a VW bus!
Curious Q: why do you always use the manual tools. Never see you using a cordless ratchet or a small impact. Just curious. Not to tighten but to losen and remove bolts.
Not sure what you mean? I just used power tools in this video?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto oh never mind!
Carry on!
I would just leave the non-leaky stuff alone. It’s a slippery slope sometimes 😂
Amen. I feel the slippery-ness.
Have you heard of the damn seal for the input shaft? I may do that.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto i have not but my experience is really only with the 901 and recently the Getrag 260 on the e30. If it’s easy enough to change- you might should do it- but I have no clue about G50s.
The dam works for 901 too. It doesn't stop a leak but it diverts the leak path down instead of ruining the clutch.
It's a generic seal that goes inside the guide tube to create a dam. Then a small hole is drilled before the dam through the guide tube
Nice video as always. Do you have any problems with the axle flanges or stub axles leaking CV grease? A big headache for me.
Not that I can tell yet. The car was so dirty it's hard to tell what's leaking or when it leaked. Is yours a g50 too? No gaskets on mine