I loved the look of color film at night. Usually, I shoot BW, but after this video, I'm considering color too. For BW, I found out by accident that Acros is good against reciprocity failure. Once I metered for f/5.6 or f/8, but forgot to open the lens. When I realized I was still at f/22, I recalculate in my mind how long to wait, forgot to factor Schwarzschild effect in and it still worked. Edit: spelling
Glad to see we could inspire you. And yes, the gravity of the Schwarzschild effect really depends on the duration of your exposure. But then again you probably know that. Interesting to hear about your experience with Acros. :)
Hi Douglas, according to the datasheet for the Acros, you only need +1/2 stop for exposure times between 120 and 1000 seconds; below 120 seconds there is no reciprocity to be factored in. The same is true for Fuji Provia 100 slide film: up to 128 seconds no reciprocity; then only +1/3 for up to 240 seconds. (This is for the 35 mm versions of both films; maybe the 120 flavors behave a bit differently; never verified this as I don't have a medium format camera.)
thanks for the video, I learned something new. Shots are really cool! I'm curious to try night and Blaue Stunde photography myself. I also live in Germany! (you are the first person whose videos on photography I've watched who is from Germany :D)
Hello Max how are you? you know what i found interesting is the star trails in the long exposure, you can even tell that they were shot at a higher latitude than Florida where I am in the semi circular movement. I dont know if Id have the guts to experiment alot with night photos as much as digital but I get the feeling im missing out on some interesting results .
Perhaps you should consider another episode of film night photography? Some time has passed and I wonder what could you achieve with more exposures and functioning light meter. I'd love to see more!
I appreciate your authentic videos which I award with a LIKE! Something in your video was familiar and reminds me of my experience in taking photographs at night. It is difficult to get the horizontal level right looking on the dark (night time) Hasselblad groundglass. This is something to watch carefully for everyone engaging in night time photography to prevent the need to crop the frame, losing parts of the composition and image quality.
Thanks so much for your comment and please excuse my late response. You are absolutely right, shooting at night brings about certain compositional challenges. Sometimes something that you could not see while taking the shot suddenly appears on the shot. In our case there was usually enough light to get the horizontal level right. But there are still a few shots in there that I would have composed differently in daylight, that's true. :)
Seen this vid on numerous occasions over the last 3 or so years and I've never seen you go out on another night photoshoot!! Are you going to plan on doing one again at some stage?
Great video, like you I found spot meter not really usable since it cannot read in that kind of dark. I usually use digital camera for night to get correct exposure, find it easier, but I would like to think in EV's (Exposure Value) someday, because those night lights are always the same, and when you get the feeling, you could be able to guess exposure, something like sunny 16. I have two iPhone apps for Reciprocity failure: Reciprocity Timer and Reciprocity+. Reciprocity Timer is to me very usable app and I use it quite a lot. It has a timer too, so you don't need stop watch, plus it has RF's for most popular films. Like anybody mention Acros has no RF until 2 mins, and as I remember Provia and Velvia 100 have RF until 1 min. My craziest long exposure for now was with Rollei RPX 25, metered for 3mins, and with RF it was 21:30mins :)
Thanks so much for your comment. I've recently started using EVs thanks to Jules' Hasselblad finder where the built-in light meter provides EVs. I really enjoyed it and the results turned out fine. I've also read about the typical EVs at such night situations but then decided against doing it that way because I was too unsure in that case. Thanks for pointing out these two iPhone Apps. I have to admit that I wasn't aware of that. Great little helper that I should have mentioned in the video. :)
Very nice presentation. Munich has more than the usual sites to photograph. Would have loved to see additional shots in b&w. Especially in RPX 400, for that classic look.
really good video I have never shot at night with film because I don't understand the resporicty but this was a really good video I love the moving stars you got :D
Thanks, Max and Jules, for another informative and engaging feature. One of the reasons I found it so stimulating was that, while I continue to shoot film alongside of digital, I did decide to go to digital exclusively for night shooting, for the immediate confirmation it allows (as compared to years and years of bracketing - and hoping! - especially when using slide films!). But some of the interesting color shifts you got in shooting color negative film are suggesting I at least take a new crack at such shooting. I absolutely love the "daytime" rendition of that solitary tree at 6:00! Alles gute!
Steve Ember Thanks so much for your comment and kind feedback. Makes me happy to hear that our video inspired you to take another look at color negative film for night photography. :)
Wow, I love your channel in general. but this episode was really amazing. Thank you for your hard work, your productions are always impressive and I know you must spend a great deal of time producing them.
I never shot colour negative at night but now I'm sold. I like how saturated the colours are. Have ever did portrait work on Velvia 50? I know it's only having 4-5 stops dynamic range but if the scene is low contrast and you nail the exposure, the colours are unbelievable.
Quality work guys at usual, loving the analog videos. I own an rb67 and recently burnt through a role of portra. This film produces beautiful colours but never thought to try night shots. After seeing your results I'll have to give it a go, thanks
Glad to hear that. The RB67 is such a lovely camera as well. Love its manual handling and how it slows you down. Great gear. Yes, enjoy shooting Portra at night! :)
Great results. I will try some portra with my Mamiya 7 as you say it looks different than digital. The highlights are better in film and that helps ie for the street lights with night photography they look better. Congrats on your channel really good valuable content.
The Schwartzchild effect you were talking about is called Reciprocity effect in English. It doesn’t affect digital cameras, just film. You can use a cheat sheet or just bracket your shots. But you’re using neg film so it doesn’t matter as much as using slide film. Nice work.
I loved the photos at 6:00 and 6:14. You mentioned that such kind of photos is impossible to do on digital. What is different in film v digital technically so you would say that? Would sensor not be able to catch that light in similar way? Colour shift - does it have such a major effect?
Saw your video and it's just a great insight. However I have a question. I've tried shooting some 200 ISO film on some darker scene (like dimly lit indoor or a sunset) + a somewhat slower shutter speed (around 1/60 or 1/30) and there's this unpleasant color shift generally - where the hues of the highlight and shadows gone way beyond what I was expecting. I already tried some 800 ISO film in the similar/ more extreme situations as well (at night, outdoor, without any pushing) and it works really well - color rendered as expected (sometimes there's also some color shift but it's still highly tolerable). Is this because a slower speed film (like 100, 160 or 200) can't really handle darker situations (or slower shutter speed? - even though this sounds absurd to me ) or is it because of the quality of the film itself?
Richo Wirawan Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it. You’re right about the unpleasant color shifts in the darker areas of color negative film when it is underexposed. This even happens to great films like Kodak Portra 400. So it has nothing to do with the film quality. The keyword here is underexposed. An ISO 400 film and a shutter speed of 1/60s simply don’t suffice in many light situations. If you’d like or need to stick to handheld shooting, then ISO 800 film is the way to go. If you can shoot from a tripod, the sky is the limit. Some of our shots in this video have been exposed for way over a minute. Please also note that some film are rather light hungry and bring out their best color treatment when overexposed (e.g. Portra or Fuji Pro 400H). Hope this helps.
Glad you liked it! Have fun doing some night photography on film. I recently shot a roll during the fireworks on New Year's Eve and was blown away by the results again. :)
I like to use the Black Cat Extended Range Exposure Guide for situations like this. Back when transparency film was cheaper and more plentiful, I did quite a bit of night landscape shooting. Lights at Christmas time or cityscape/streetscape shots after rain will blow you away. The reflection of the lights in the wet streets will multiply the effect that I think you're looking for.
I thought I knew the place from @1:30 onwards... That's Friedensengel in Munich!! One of my favourite place tbh, in Munich :) Used to be my hangout place after university work many evenings.
Hey! As always, a fantastic video! I hope you don't mind me writing the next part in german :D Ich hätte eine Frage zur Hasselblad. Ich hab vor Kurzem ein Inserat für eine 501CM gesehen. Ist natürlich nicht billig, aber für eine Hasselblad mit zwei Objektiven (80/2,8 Planar CFE und 250/5,6 Sonnar CF) ist sie ja fast schon wieder günstig ;). Meine Frage ist ob du dieses Modell empfehlen würdest oder ich doch nach einer anderen Hasselblad Ausschau halten sollte? Greetings from Austria!
Danke für deinen Kommentar. Laut Jules ist gerade die 501 CM sehr zu empfehlen, da sie eine der neuesten Hasselblads ist, die man bekommen kann und sie die aktuellsten Bauteile sowie in der Regel auch die hellste Mattscheibe Acute Matte D enthält. Ich bin demnach selbst derzeit auf der Suche nach einem passenden Angebot. Sofern die Acute Matte D bereits eingebaut ist, kannst du übrigens auch nach einer 501 C Ausschau halten. Einziger Unterschied ist hier, wie leicht sich die Mattscheibe wechseln lässt - geht aber bei beiden Modellen. Hoffe, dass dir diese Auskunft hilft.
I do a lot of digital night photography and I’ve used the same concepts for shutter speed, basing it on the digital body I’m using. I’m wondering if your cheat sheet is shareable?
When my friend and i shot night photography we don't use a meter. We usually shoot cityscapes. We shot on slide film(iso 200). Shutter speed is usually for 10-12 seconds at F8.
you should check out '80's synthwave' music on here, there a few channels that do some brilliant compositions of it. its something I've really gotten into lately and enjoy it.
Introspective Existentialist Thanks so much and glad to hear that you enjoyed the music. If you have a digital camera, you can also use this to determine the correct exposure and then look up how the Schwarzschild effect comes into play in your case (film and exposure duration based in digital camera reading). Like that, you wouldn’t need to buy a light meter. Furthermore, there are some great light meter apps which you can simply use on your smartphone. Hope this helps.
Thanks for making this video, as I’m trying some night shots soon on film. Would appreciate a little more on average shutter times and f stop as a benchmark. Thanks again- the videos are great.
When taking your readings, did you spot meter for the bright parts or just take evaluative readings of the whole scene? And that tree photo that looks like a day time shot but isn't... was that lit by moonlight or something?
Thanks for your comment. No, just evaluative readings. In the case of the tree photo, we gave a lot of "extra" light/time which turns it into such a surreal scene.
Thanks for your comment.The link to the cheat sheet can be found in the video description. And no, we didn't write down all the shutter speeds on that night but decided to enjoy photographing instead. :)
Hello, I'm starting to shoot film, but I have a question about what you said. I want to take a photograph of the night sky similar to the one of 5:43 but you said you ended up exposing the film for about 3 to 4 minutes, how to do you expose it for that long if the shutterspeed doesn't allow it? Is there a way I can do it? Thank you :)
karla acosta cavazos Sure, the so-called bulb mode (marked “b” on the shutter dial) lets you open the shutter for a longer period of time. Hope this helps. :)
You ned a spot meter as I do. Sekonic made an wonderful model but quite expensive. Interesting video. You should try the results of positive colors too in E6.
For B&W, Fuji acros 100 is the best when it comes to long exposures. Up to 2 minutes with no compensation. Then only +1/2 stop for times up to 9 minutes. Tmax 400 is also pretty good for this. For color, Velvia 100 has 1 minute before reciprocity failure kicks in. Not sure about color negative. I think Portra 400 and Fuji Pro 400h is about the same when it comes to reciprocity. Google their datasheets.
Fantastic video! Thanks for a bit of vocabulary - Schwarzschild-Effekt for reciprocity failure - and thanks for starting me on a mini-voyage of discovery finding out about Karl Schwarzschild :-) I really do like how many of your videos encourage one to go out, try things, and do more research. Please keep up the great work.
I had never tried night photography on film; just during the day; however I had tried with digital. It will be very interesting to learn this. I'm kind of confused on your sheet cheat you placed 30s exposure time but on which film because when I look at Kodak Portra 160 & 400 you have as exposure time 90s. so which one is correct? 30s or 90's?
Some great shots you got there, well done. have you tried shooting with Cinestill 800T film at night?...its wonderful film to use and with its remjet layer being removed it gives a wonderful halation effect with lights that looks great. it's the only film I use for shooting at night because of that, I love it. and love the music, very much like the 80's synthwave music I've been listening to on here a lot lately.
If I may ask, and thank you for the effort of making these videos, it would be more helpful if you gave us insight into how you actually take readings.to have a proper understanding of the process. thanks.
Thanks for your comment and sorry about my late response. We had this film developed and scanned by my trusted lab (www.meinfilmlab.de). They use professional Noritsu and Fuji Frontier scanners. I hope this helps! :)
So: 1. you can't take along the correct batteries for your light meter. 2. You blame the cable release for not working. Here are solutions for both: 1. Check the batteries on all of your equipment before you go out. DUH.... 2. When taking pictures that are longer than a few seconds, something along the lines of what is not covered by the camera shutter dial, do the following two things. 2a. Get yourself a black piece of cardboard that is larger than the front element of your lens. (about 4 inches, 11cm square) 2b. Frame/focus the camera and determine the shutter speed as necessary. 2c. Put the camera on B (ya know bulb). 2d. Hold the cardboard in front of the lens - don't touch the lens. 2e. Open the shutter and let the camera vibrations stop. 2f. Remove the cardboard from in front of the camera. 2g. When the time you have selected is up - either put the cardboard back to cover the front element or release the shutter. These steps are easy to do and have been used by us old guys for literally the last few hundred years. Millennial's, it is just to bad to see technique thrown away and then you try to take credit for not really being all that "creative".
Don’t have a hand held light meter for night photography. What do you guys think about using a light meter app for finding shutter speeds?? I heard you might need to expose a little longer than the app says.
really?? no shot details. no examples of calculating the "Schwarzschild effect"? no recommend cheat sheet link? just a vid of two guys taking photos at night. not very informative sorry.
The photograph at 6:00 of the tree is absolutely tremendous. Thank you for your hard work in producing this video.
Thanks so much for your comment. We really appreciate it. :)
Yes! When I saw that one I had to pause for like 10 seconds just to enjoy it! :)
Yeah! It's stunning..
May we know the shutter speed for that masterpiece? :D
Robin May agree
All the shots looked amazing. Especially the one that looked like it was taken in daylight. Great work!
selly903 Thanks. We really appreciate it. :)
That photo of the tree at 6 min was freaking amazing!
Jake Muscat Thanks. 🙏🏻
Love to the retrowave music, thanks
So inspiring! I've been thinking about doing a night photography video on my channel & this video has me inspired now! Thanks!
Synthpop for the win!
I loved the look of color film at night. Usually, I shoot BW, but after this video, I'm considering color too.
For BW, I found out by accident that Acros is good against reciprocity failure. Once I metered for f/5.6 or f/8, but forgot to open the lens. When I realized I was still at f/22, I recalculate in my mind how long to wait, forgot to factor Schwarzschild effect in and it still worked.
Edit: spelling
Glad to see we could inspire you. And yes, the gravity of the Schwarzschild effect really depends on the duration of your exposure. But then again you probably know that. Interesting to hear about your experience with Acros. :)
Hi Douglas, according to the datasheet for the Acros, you only need +1/2 stop for exposure times between 120 and 1000 seconds; below 120 seconds there is no reciprocity to be factored in.
The same is true for Fuji Provia 100 slide film: up to 128 seconds no reciprocity; then only +1/3 for up to 240 seconds. (This is for the 35 mm versions of both films; maybe the 120 flavors behave a bit differently; never verified this as I don't have a medium format camera.)
I’ve never shot film at night but I think I’ll give it a try now. Thanks for posting this.
Well Done mate ! I have asked my peeps on Analog Dubai to follow you ! All the very best !
thanks for the video, I learned something new. Shots are really cool! I'm curious to try night and Blaue Stunde photography myself. I also live in Germany! (you are the first person whose videos on photography I've watched who is from Germany :D)
Yay! Glad to hear that. Thanks for your kind words and good to hear this little channel got your attention. :)
Sehr cooles Video, die Musik find ich auch klasse.
Dankeschön! :)
Really enjoyed it,thank you.
Excellent video and info!!!!
Very good photography.
the music is lit. nice video keep going
Olaf Schmidt Thanks! :)
THAT'S my style; love ur dramatic colour renderings & contrast. Tried astrophotography yet with film cameras?
Hello Max how are you? you know what i found interesting is the star trails in the long exposure, you can even tell that they were shot at a higher latitude than Florida where I am in the semi circular movement. I dont know if Id have the guts to experiment alot with night photos as much as digital but I get the feeling im missing out on some interesting results .
Wow, that's a pretty good observation. Thanks for pointing this out. I wasn't aware of (or rather haven't really thought about) that. :)
Perhaps you should consider another episode of film night photography? Some time has passed and I wonder what could you achieve with more exposures and functioning light meter. I'd love to see more!
I appreciate your authentic videos which I award with a LIKE! Something in your video was familiar and reminds me of my experience in taking photographs at night. It is difficult to get the horizontal level right looking on the dark (night time) Hasselblad groundglass. This is something to watch carefully for everyone engaging in night time photography to prevent the need to crop the frame, losing parts of the composition and image quality.
Thanks so much for your comment and please excuse my late response. You are absolutely right, shooting at night brings about certain compositional challenges. Sometimes something that you could not see while taking the shot suddenly appears on the shot. In our case there was usually enough light to get the horizontal level right. But there are still a few shots in there that I would have composed differently in daylight, that's true. :)
Seen this vid on numerous occasions over the last 3 or so years and I've never seen you go out on another night photoshoot!! Are you going to plan on doing one again at some stage?
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, indeed we have some videos coming up that will also feature outings at night. :)
Great video, like you I found spot meter not really usable since it cannot read in that kind of dark.
I usually use digital camera for night to get correct exposure, find it easier, but I would like to think in EV's (Exposure Value) someday, because those night lights are always the same, and when you get the feeling, you could be able to guess exposure, something like sunny 16.
I have two iPhone apps for Reciprocity failure: Reciprocity Timer and Reciprocity+. Reciprocity Timer is to me very usable app and I use it quite a lot. It has a timer too, so you don't need stop watch, plus it has RF's for most popular films.
Like anybody mention Acros has no RF until 2 mins, and as I remember Provia and Velvia 100 have RF until 1 min.
My craziest long exposure for now was with Rollei RPX 25, metered for 3mins, and with RF it was 21:30mins :)
Thanks so much for your comment. I've recently started using EVs thanks to Jules' Hasselblad finder where the built-in light meter provides EVs. I really enjoyed it and the results turned out fine. I've also read about the typical EVs at such night situations but then decided against doing it that way because I was too unsure in that case.
Thanks for pointing out these two iPhone Apps. I have to admit that I wasn't aware of that. Great little helper that I should have mentioned in the video. :)
You're welcome, thanks to you and Jules for creating this great videos :)
Very nice presentation. Munich has more than the usual sites to photograph. Would have loved to see additional shots in b&w. Especially in RPX 400, for that classic look.
Hi Max! Very interesting experiment! Liked the results. And also, amaaaaazing music! 😀 kudos
Amazing colors. Definitely need to try this!
really good video I have never shot at night with film because I don't understand the resporicty but this was a really good video I love the moving stars you got :D
nice images, please add what shutter speeds you used with each image, thanks
that would be pointless as every situation is different
@@RobBob555 It would be much more useless if they were all exactly the same.
Thanks, Max and Jules, for another informative and engaging feature. One of the reasons I found it so stimulating was that, while I continue to shoot film alongside of digital, I did decide to go to digital exclusively for night shooting, for the immediate confirmation it allows (as compared to years and years of bracketing - and hoping! - especially when using slide films!). But some of the interesting color shifts you got in shooting color negative film are suggesting I at least take a new crack at such shooting. I absolutely love the "daytime" rendition of that solitary tree at 6:00! Alles gute!
Steve Ember Thanks so much for your comment and kind feedback. Makes me happy to hear that our video inspired you to take another look at color negative film for night photography. :)
Woooowww nice pic as usual, btw in case you guys wondering you got fans from Indonesia 😆
Thanks sooo much for your kind comment. Haha, fans from Indonesia. That's cool! :)
Wow, I love your channel in general. but this episode was really amazing. Thank you for your hard work, your productions are always impressive and I know you must spend a great deal of time producing them.
I never shot colour negative at night but now I'm sold. I like how saturated the colours are. Have ever did portrait work on Velvia 50? I know it's only having 4-5 stops dynamic range but if the scene is low contrast and you nail the exposure, the colours are unbelievable.
Stunning shots... Lovely color shifts and unbelievable dynamic range. I Love your work, you have a gift for communication. Amazing channel.
Great video Max, this is very encouraging, I think I'll give it a try also. The colour shifts work really well.
never tried night photography on film,
but i think i will have to try it damn soon!
Quality work guys at usual, loving the analog videos. I own an rb67 and recently burnt through a role of portra. This film produces beautiful colours but never thought to try night shots. After seeing your results I'll have to give it a go, thanks
Glad to hear that. The RB67 is such a lovely camera as well. Love its manual handling and how it slows you down. Great gear. Yes, enjoy shooting Portra at night! :)
really liked the tech-noir mood from the synth music and the awesome photographs of munich at night time. keep up the great work! subscribed!
Great results. I will try some portra with my Mamiya 7 as you say it looks different than digital. The highlights are better in film and that helps ie for the street lights with night photography they look better. Congrats on your channel really good valuable content.
The Schwartzchild effect you were talking about is called Reciprocity effect in English. It doesn’t affect digital cameras, just film. You can use a cheat sheet or just bracket your shots. But you’re using neg film so it doesn’t matter as much as using slide film. Nice work.
Thanks for your comment. The term is certainly used in English as well: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_(photography)#Reciprocity_failure
I loved the photos at 6:00 and 6:14. You mentioned that such kind of photos is impossible to do on digital. What is different in film v digital technically so you would say that? Would sensor not be able to catch that light in similar way? Colour shift - does it have such a major effect?
did you meter for the shadows or the highlights in 2:10
Saw your video and it's just a great insight. However I have a question. I've tried shooting some 200 ISO film on some darker scene (like dimly lit indoor or a sunset) + a somewhat slower shutter speed (around 1/60 or 1/30) and there's this unpleasant color shift generally - where the hues of the highlight and shadows gone way beyond what I was expecting.
I already tried some 800 ISO film in the similar/ more extreme situations as well (at night, outdoor, without any pushing) and it works really well - color rendered as expected (sometimes there's also some color shift but it's still highly tolerable).
Is this because a slower speed film (like 100, 160 or 200) can't really handle darker situations (or slower shutter speed? - even though this sounds absurd to me ) or is it because of the quality of the film itself?
Richo Wirawan Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it. You’re right about the unpleasant color shifts in the darker areas of color negative film when it is underexposed. This even happens to great films like Kodak Portra 400. So it has nothing to do with the film quality. The keyword here is underexposed. An ISO 400 film and a shutter speed of 1/60s simply don’t suffice in many light situations. If you’d like or need to stick to handheld shooting, then ISO 800 film is the way to go. If you can shoot from a tripod, the sky is the limit. Some of our shots in this video have been exposed for way over a minute.
Please also note that some film are rather light hungry and bring out their best color treatment when overexposed (e.g. Portra or Fuji Pro 400H). Hope this helps.
Thank you for sharing your experiences. Any tips for focusing at night? Did you rely on lens markings?
great video i liked your guys style of teaching and sharing info
Thanks so much. I really appreciate your kind feedback! :)
This is incredible. I'm going to buy a shutter release and go out as soon as I can! You got a new subscriber!!!
Glad you liked it! Have fun doing some night photography on film. I recently shot a roll during the fireworks on New Year's Eve and was blown away by the results again. :)
Where can I find those photos? Are they online?
PicklePatch Unfortunately not. Sorry.
I like to use the Black Cat Extended Range Exposure Guide for situations like this. Back when transparency film was cheaper and more plentiful, I did quite a bit of night landscape shooting. Lights at Christmas time or cityscape/streetscape shots after rain will blow you away. The reflection of the lights in the wet streets will multiply the effect that I think you're looking for.
Thanks for your comment and please excuse my late response. Sounds like an excellent suggestion. I'll definitely give it a try sometime. :)
I thought I knew the place from @1:30 onwards... That's Friedensengel in Munich!! One of my favourite place tbh, in Munich :) Used to be my hangout place after university work many evenings.
Hey! As always, a fantastic video!
I hope you don't mind me writing the next part in german :D
Ich hätte eine Frage zur Hasselblad. Ich hab vor Kurzem ein Inserat für eine 501CM gesehen. Ist natürlich nicht billig, aber für eine Hasselblad mit zwei Objektiven (80/2,8 Planar CFE und 250/5,6 Sonnar CF) ist sie ja fast schon wieder günstig ;). Meine Frage ist ob du dieses Modell empfehlen würdest oder ich doch nach einer anderen Hasselblad Ausschau halten sollte?
Greetings from Austria!
Danke für deinen Kommentar. Laut Jules ist gerade die 501 CM sehr zu empfehlen, da sie eine der neuesten Hasselblads ist, die man bekommen kann und sie die aktuellsten Bauteile sowie in der Regel auch die hellste Mattscheibe Acute Matte D enthält. Ich bin demnach selbst derzeit auf der Suche nach einem passenden Angebot.
Sofern die Acute Matte D bereits eingebaut ist, kannst du übrigens auch nach einer 501 C Ausschau halten. Einziger Unterschied ist hier, wie leicht sich die Mattscheibe wechseln lässt - geht aber bei beiden Modellen. Hoffe, dass dir diese Auskunft hilft.
Ja, hat geholfen! Vielen Dank für deine Antwort!
I loved your video
that was cool and informative! Out of curiosity, will one be able to focus with a waist level viewfinder or would that be too dark?
Where can I find the cheat sheet which is spoken of?
It is linked in the video description. Or here (German only): www.meinfilmlab.de/einfuehrung-in-die-analoge-nachtfotografie/
Very nice video
I do a lot of digital night photography and I’ve used the same concepts for shutter speed, basing it on the digital body I’m using. I’m wondering if your cheat sheet is shareable?
Good works guys and thank you for the information it so important for my .
That Video was just too Good! And the music was Really awesome!
Thanks so much! We really appreciate it. :)
really getting into this...until you said the handheld meter stopped working, so revert to a digital camera! at that point I switched off!!
When my friend and i shot night photography we don't use a meter. We usually shoot cityscapes. We shot on slide film(iso 200).
Shutter speed is usually for 10-12 seconds at F8.
It depends on the lighting really.
love the 80s schwarzenegger, van damme type movie music
you should check out '80's synthwave' music on here, there a few channels that do some brilliant compositions of it. its something I've really gotten into lately and enjoy it.
Yes but how do I do this with slide film?
great video. I have never tried night photography with film either. The color stuff is so cool. Great channel guys. Thanks
Thanks so much for your kind feedback. Really appreciate it. :)
Love the music. I want to try this out but my budget doesn't have any room for a light meter. 😓 Love the music! btw🎶
Introspective Existentialist Thanks so much and glad to hear that you enjoyed the music.
If you have a digital camera, you can also use this to determine the correct exposure and then look up how the Schwarzschild effect comes into play in your case (film and exposure duration based in digital camera reading). Like that, you wouldn’t need to buy a light meter. Furthermore, there are some great light meter apps which you can simply use on your smartphone. Hope this helps.
Thanks for making this video, as I’m trying some night shots soon on film. Would appreciate a little more on average shutter times and f stop as a benchmark. Thanks again- the videos are great.
Glenn Little Thanks for your feedback. All shots were taken at f/8 and shutter speeds ranged between 30s up to 4 minutes. I hope this helps. :)
When taking your readings, did you spot meter for the bright parts or just take evaluative readings of the whole scene? And that tree photo that looks like a day time shot but isn't... was that lit by moonlight or something?
Thanks for your comment. No, just evaluative readings. In the case of the tree photo, we gave a lot of "extra" light/time which turns it into such a surreal scene.
Color shifts on digital are possible - just not with any digital camera and in standard modes.
Fantastic video very useful as a reference.
Amazing results, especially of those with the tower. Great video, thanks!
Thanks so much for your kind comment. :) Glad you liked it.
What are the speeds is there a link to the "Cheat sheet"
Thanks for your comment.The link to the cheat sheet can be found in the video description. And no, we didn't write down all the shutter speeds on that night but decided to enjoy photographing instead. :)
Thanks! Love your videos!
Really nice video! :D nice and amazing shots! May I ask what aperture did you use ? :D thank you in advance
Ana Roberta Burgos Of course, aperture 8. Thanks for your comment. :)
thank you thank you! :D
What shutter speed and aperture did you use? It would be helpful if you add the settings. Thank you
that was a fantastic video guys thanks for sharing I learned a lot and I'm looking forward to shooting my first role at night.
That's great. So glad to hear that! Enjoy your first roll at night. :)
amazing content as always, the music the shots and how the video was filmed everything was amazing!
Oh wow! Thanks a lot for your very kind comment. Means a lot to us. :)
Hello, I'm starting to shoot film, but I have a question about what you said. I want to take a photograph of the night sky similar to the one of 5:43 but you said you ended up exposing the film for about 3 to 4 minutes, how to do you expose it for that long if the shutterspeed doesn't allow it? Is there a way I can do it? Thank you :)
karla acosta cavazos Sure, the so-called bulb mode (marked “b” on the shutter dial) lets you open the shutter for a longer period of time. Hope this helps. :)
@@AnalogInsights Yes, it really does. Thank you so much :)
You ned a spot meter as I do. Sekonic made an wonderful model but quite expensive. Interesting video. You should try the results of positive colors too in E6.
For B&W, Fuji acros 100 is the best when it comes to long exposures. Up to 2 minutes with no compensation. Then only +1/2 stop for times up to 9 minutes. Tmax 400 is also pretty good for this.
For color, Velvia 100 has 1 minute before reciprocity failure kicks in. Not sure about color negative. I think Portra 400 and Fuji Pro 400h is about the same when it comes to reciprocity. Google their datasheets.
Fantastic video! Thanks for a bit of vocabulary - Schwarzschild-Effekt for reciprocity failure - and thanks for starting me on a mini-voyage of discovery finding out about Karl Schwarzschild :-) I really do like how many of your videos encourage one to go out, try things, and do more research. Please keep up the great work.
I had never tried night photography on film; just during the day; however I had tried with digital. It will be very interesting to learn this. I'm kind of confused on your sheet cheat you placed 30s exposure time but on which film because when I look at Kodak Portra 160 & 400 you have as exposure time 90s. so which one is correct? 30s or 90's?
Some great shots you got there, well done. have you tried shooting with Cinestill 800T film at night?...its wonderful film to use and with its remjet layer being removed it gives a wonderful halation effect with lights that looks great. it's the only film I use for shooting at night because of that, I love it. and love the music, very much like the 80's synthwave music I've been listening to on here a lot lately.
If I may ask, and thank you for the effort of making these videos, it would be more helpful if you gave us insight into how you actually take readings.to have a proper understanding of the process. thanks.
Love the music. Appropriate for this analog shoot
Thanks for your comment. Glad you like it! :)
Wow thank you very much for this great video. The pictures are so yummie! It's a real eye opener for me :-)
Excellent photos Max. i've had good results at night with fuji provia.
Wow! The photos in the Olympiapark with the comets in the sky are my favourites!
For 6:40, how did you achieve that effect? Did you lightmetered for the shadows or the highlight? Such a cool shot!
i miss Munich so much. i'd love to do some street/documentary photography there.
Very nice video. keep up the good work.. cheers
Andrew Hans Thanks a lot for your kind words. We'll do our best. :)
Really needed this, thanks bro ! 💯
Thanks! Glad you liked it. :)
Very enjoyable and some great images. New sub. Cheers!
Another winner 👌📷 the whole vibe of this video is super cool
Always nice videos.
where can I listen the second song? it is not on soundcloud anymore
Really great shots! Well done. Keep clicking, keep inspiring, be well. X ta
What scanner do you use? All tonal zones looks very smooth
Thanks for your comment and sorry about my late response. We had this film developed and scanned by my trusted lab (www.meinfilmlab.de). They use professional Noritsu and Fuji Frontier scanners. I hope this helps! :)
Thank you for your reply, it’s more than enough! For my opinion frontier/noritsu are the best ones.
interesting, useful video thanks
great video, different from many others
pretty awesome
Thanks! :)
Sehr gutes Video;)
jan blckf Tausend Dank. :)
Another great video!
Love the music in this video
Interesting video. Thanks for posting.
So:
1. you can't take along the correct batteries for your light meter.
2. You blame the cable release for not working.
Here are solutions for both:
1. Check the batteries on all of your equipment before you go out. DUH....
2. When taking pictures that are longer than a few seconds, something along the lines of what is not covered by the camera shutter dial, do the following two things.
2a. Get yourself a black piece of cardboard that is larger than the front element of your lens. (about 4 inches, 11cm square)
2b. Frame/focus the camera and determine the shutter speed as necessary.
2c. Put the camera on B (ya know bulb).
2d. Hold the cardboard in front of the lens - don't touch the lens.
2e. Open the shutter and let the camera vibrations stop.
2f. Remove the cardboard from in front of the camera.
2g. When the time you have selected is up - either put the cardboard back to cover the front element or release the shutter.
These steps are easy to do and have been used by us old guys for literally the last few hundred years.
Millennial's, it is just to bad to see technique thrown away and then you try to take credit for not really being all that "creative".
Don’t have a hand held light meter for night photography. What do you guys think about using a light meter app for finding shutter speeds?? I heard you might need to expose a little longer than the app says.
really?? no shot details. no examples of calculating the "Schwarzschild effect"? no recommend cheat sheet link? just a vid of two guys taking photos at night. not very informative sorry.