How to adjust valves on 289 small block Ford
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
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Today we are adjusting valves on our 66 Ford Mustang 289. This is how I perform the procedure. I understand there are many different ways to do this and this is how I do it. This procedure is based off a stock engine and camshaft application with adjustable hydraulic valves. If your engine has a modified camshaft or rocker arms or lifters, this is not the procedure to follow. Hope this helps.
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Keep these super basic videos coming. We all appreciate it. Thank you so much man. Saved me hours!!!
Will do, good to hear they are helpful!
Your channel is a hidden gem
Thank you very much! Its been fun being able to do this. I hope I can keep it going.
Great videos! Question, can this same procedure be uses after oil pressure has been established and lifters are probably pumped up?
Yes it can
Also 0 lash can be obtained same firing order but when turning 90° watch for the lifter to come all the way off or down from the cam lobe especially if it's a aftermarket camshaft!! Great easy instruction dude well said!!
Thank you!
You give good directions. nice and simple. Thanks
Thank you!
Very simple & well explained. I also roll the push rods while tightening as a double check for zero lash. My 289 has lost power & compression & I think I can hear the valves riding (fluffing) in the exhaust. My question is, do you think it could be as simple as valve seat recession due to no leaded fuel now? If so, do you think I should check valve lash & start clearance checking from scratch? Motor has only done 50100 original miles. Thanks for posting.
Ya it definitely could be. These heads need to be re done to accommodate modern fuels. 50,000 original miles isn't bad at all but if you have no compression in multiple cylinders, sounds like there is a good chance those heads need to be pulled.
I like it as it's just like a small block Chevy ! Our Ford 351W has the " Non adjustable " rocker arms . Keep up the good work !
Thank you. Ya I find this process works for any hydraulic lifter adjustable pushrod engine.
I have a 1967 Ford Fairlane with a 289.
Is there a way to discern if the 289 will have adjustable rods or not?
Still helping, thank you
You're welcome
Hi Alf, first thank you for you videos as they have really helped me and my 11 year old son work on our 66 Mustang. My question is would this procedure be the same on a engine that is up and running with oil and everything? Also, should I initially tighten the rocker to where I just can't move the pushrod up and down at all (i did this) or when there is a little resistance to spin the pushrod? I hope so cause I followed this procedure and adjusted the valves (which seemed way loose before). Put the valve covers back on and it started up fine but was running a little rough, I adjusted the timing. All is good until I hookup the vacuum advance, then it starts piping and wanting to backfire. Maybe the carb needs adjusting now but wanted to get your thoughts as it was running decent before I adjusted the valves. Again, thank you for doing these videos, they give us a chance at success out here!
Typically after a valve adjustment, you would want to do some carb adjustments. Typically just with the idle air mixture because you just changed how the valves are bringing in the fuel. If everything seems to be good but then not when connecting the vacuum advance I would ask you two questions. What type of carb are you running and where is the vacuum advance connected to? It should NOT be connected to a manifold vacuum source. It should be connected to a ported vacuum source. Meaning it's only getting vacuum when you start to open the throttle plates. I would start with that and I hope that helps.
Great info; what procedure do you use to adjust valves for an engine thats been running? I'm assuming that there's oil in the lifters now. Thanks
I pretty much do the same thing. The end result is the same. Eventually you start the engine and the lifters get pumped up and everything is good. It's just that initial start up is usually smoother if you adjust with lifters not pumped up.
Thanks for the video man I learned something appreciated
You're very welcome
My 289 engine has been sitting for about 20 years. Should I attempt to adjust the valves before starting it? The rockers move from side to side very easily
Probably not a bad idea. What you should be doing is removing the valve covers and manually priming the oil pump. Then you can verify your oil (fresh oil) is getting to the top of every rocker arm. There are lots of things that need to be done to a car that has sat that long. That would be one of the things I do.
I have developed a ticking in my 67 289. My galaxie is a daily driver..would it be safe to just pop the valve cover and adjust the rocker that has come lose?
Thx 😊
Well if a rocker has come loose, then yes that needs to be adjusted. I wouldn't know the source of your ticking noise though.
hello, nice video adds you 3/4, some adds only 1/2 turn what is the importance?thanks to you
After following your video on valve adjustments through all 8 cylinders, should there be loose pushrods after the adjustment in any rocker arms ? Do I need to go through the procedure several times checking for play?
There shouldn't be any up and down play from any rocker arm if you're using hydraulic lifters.
what if you have a rocker arm chattering after initial setting/adjustment, can they be tightened down more to quite it or should the lifter be replaced, engine is freshly rebuilt.
Thank you SO much for posting that very helpful and straightforward video - I was dreading that part of my rebuild!! ':@D
You're very welcome, glad to hear that it was helpful and thanks for subscribing!
I have a 67 mustang convertible with a 68 302 I totally rebuilt 15 years ago. It has always had a slow tick but today it was much louder. I’m hoping it’s just valve lash. I saw a guy do it while running and listened for each rocker to stop ticking then down another 3/4 turn.? Seems a whole lot easier than trying to find tdc for each cylinder. What’s your thoughts on this ?
Well there are multiple ways of doing it. The method I demonstrate is my preferred way. I personally don't think it's difficult finding top dead center for cylinder 1 and then following the firing order for the next 7 cylinders. I've seen people run the engine and adjust the valves before. However, it makes a huge oil mess unless you want to take an old set of valve covers and cut the tops off. That will help minimize the mess. Either method works, I just hate making an oil mess.
Alf's Mustang Garage your wisdom is appreciated. I just want to not have to remove or disassemble as little as possible. Doing it dynamically it would seem the lifters are working and adjusting in real time. I was thinking of cutting some cardboard to fit in and slant into the head along the bottom to catch and divert any oil as much as possible. THX!
You're very welcome! Ya do whatever you feel is easier and more comfortable for you and it definitely makes it easier if you can spend a little time to build some oil catchers 👍
Alf's Mustang Garage well, the valve covers on there now are cheap sheet metal...! I always planned on nice polished aluminum! Maybe now is the time!
There ya go, take them off, cut the top off, re-install and do your adjustments 👍
Hola , los balancines de mi motor se suelen aflojar con el tiempo aun habiendole puesto tuercas originales nuevas , se le podria poner algun fijador de tornillos para evitar q se aflogen? Un saludo
I found out today I have dual valve springs on my 289. I was looking at the valve train to see what I might have in terms of parts and possibly adjusting valves, etc. I've not been into the engine yet, but how should I determine what I have in terms of cam? Just go ahead and take her apart or perhaps a cam checking dial indicator? I am okay with going as far as removing the intake and using a cam/lifter dial to check the profile, but is that enough? This 289 is recently purchased and has only run for a couple minutes, and it does seem like it has a lope, but I'd like to get as accurate as I can on the profile.
Ya I think the only thing you can check on the cam with it being in the block is how much lift you have. I'm actually unaware of any ways to check anything else. But ya usually people don't upgrade springs unless it's to accommodate a larger cam profile.
And that's not dry you have oil in the engine?
What happens if you adjust all the valves, but are not at TDC compression when you start this process and are just at TDC 1?
Then the valve adjustment procedure was not performed correctly. What that means is you adjusted the valve when the camshaft was in the wrong position. you're needing to adjust the valve when the lifter is at the base circle of the cam and when the cylinder you're adjusting is at TDC compression stroke, that is when that is happening. I hope that makes sense.
thank you
You're welcome
My manual says to measure the valve clearance with a specific gap and not tighten after that. This way seems a lot easier, can I be done this way in the video when the camshaft isn’t stock?
If you're manual says to adjust clearance to a specific gap, then that is what you should do. You'll need a set of feeler gauges. This video would NOT be the recommended process for your application. I would never advise against what your specific manual says.
Alf's Mustang Garage Ok the gap was for a non adjustable stud which I found out I don’t have. I went and tried this method with a cheap valve cover I cut out but couldn’t get the car to idle when it normally would fine. I had it warmed up already too. What do you do with the pcv and vacuum hoses with this technique? I think that’s what’s causing my issue. Thanks
Well I never adjust my valves when the engine is running. What type of engine and camshaft are you using?
Alf's Mustang Garage 69 302 adjustable roller rockers on what I think may be hydraulic lifters. I was told it also had a flat tappet comp camshaft. I also tried adjusting it per this method as well with engine off. Still have a ticking noise passenger side, sounds like a lifter or the rocker tapping, might even be exhaust leak. Will continue troubleshooting, thanks for the video, it was helpful.
Good luck! It's very challenging to get those right when you don't know exactly what you have. My video is pretty much for stock applications but I'm glad you found it helpful.
Is rocker arm play side to side normal? Or should it feel solid in both directions when adjusted correctly? Thanks
There should be no play in your rockers side to side. That’s what causes annoying clicking sounds!
@@everestsdriveway366 nice cougar I'm going to try this adjustment I have an occasional misfire and low compression 90psi in cylinders 4 and 6
So if I have no idea what cam is in my 289 what are my options for adjusting? I bought it with a cam from a 3rd party… It seems to have sluggish power and a driver side tick…
What kind of rocker arms does it have?
I’m assuming stock. I’m having all sorts of issues with mine.
Rebuilt C4 trans acting like it’s low on fluid, works beautifully after warmed up. It has 8 quarts in it…
Idle mixture screws don’t have any effect…
Plugs keep getting burnt by the headers…
Well get used to the little things my friend because this never really ends. First thing I would do is get a vacuum gauge on that engine and see how she is breathing. If you're not getting any response from the idle air mixture screws, it could mean that you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
@@AlfsMustangGarage At most I’m getting 16 inches of Mercury…
What altitude are you at?
This is done with no oil in the hydraulic lifters?
Yes absolutely.
my 86 5.0 began making a slight tick sounds like lifters, could it be the rocker arms need to be adjusted??
That's possible. You can also get small ticking noises from small exhaust leaks around the exhaust manifold also so that is worth looking into. But it's also worth noting that your 86 5.0 is not going to have the same valve adjustment procedure as this 1966 289. If that 86 is original, it should have a roller cam and roller lifters and the valve adjustment is different than a 66 with a flat tapped hydraulic lifters.
If it has adjustable hydraulic lifters, then yes.
👍
@@AlfsMustangGarage my 68 has a 1992 5.0 in it. Pretty much stock. I can't adjust the valves using this same procedure?
Can I do the same with roller lifters?
No, this procedure is only for hydraulic lifters.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you.
You're welcome
@@AlfsMustangGarage Any quick tip you can give me on doing the roller lifter? It is a stock engine with rocker arms. Thank you again.
Those aren’t adjustable if you look it up there supposed to be torque to 20 ft lbs
I think you're thinking of 302 engines with positive stop rocker arm studs. These are not those. This is a 289 and absolutely are adjustable.
You said 90 degrees but you move only 45 degrees
Not sure where you saw 45 degrees but I started with the ratchet straight up and ended with the ratchet sideways. That's 90 degrees.
Sorry you right no only that I subscribed your Chanel cheers
Thank you for subscribing.