I'm restoring a single shot 16ga from the 50s and I just got done cleaning all metals and springs so I really like this trick. I've never tried it but watching this gave me hope lol. Great video my friend
Did this multi-color finish to a 22 rifle two years ago, except i quenched in oil. Its holding strong without any rust and minimal oiling in a semi-dry climate. Surface prep doesnt matter, full polish to 60 grit grinding, and no apparent added abrasion resistance. It does help wick a little oil on highly polished surfaces.
Interesting. That looks pretty simple. I did a cold chemical bluing on a pistol and a broad axe that I had restored. They turned out quite nicely. That was nearly 50 years ago LOL
Did you ever make more in depth videos about bluing guns? I’m currently trying to find the best way to restore and blue my old Winchester. And I want to do it cost effectively in my garage!! This video helps a lot but I could use some more info
Tannia/Tannic acid can be used to apply ferric tannate protective coat on Iron/Steel objects. I heard Tannia/Tannic acid can be extract from plants like Oak/Oak leaves and many more. Tannic acid is an essential ingredient required to "tanning" leather, right? Might be something to assimilate into your set of knowledge as pioneer.
If you're heating it below a dull glow, probably not. He does mention watching out for overheating small protrusions. HOWEVER, one warning is for gun barrels with beads, ribs, and/or sights. Beads and ribs are often soldered or brazed with brass onto barrels, and sights often have brass components. It's very easy to ruin the soldering or brazing this way, and the brass components of a sight could warp or detatch. But a bare steel barrel like he uses in the vid should be fine (unless it's cooled rapidly resulting in warping).
What if you essentially did the same technique as Japanese sword smiths do for the "hamon"? Apply some sort of compound to the metal where you do not want as much colour, do the flame bluing process, remove the compound and then repeat the flame bluing process in those areas.
When I do flame bluing like this I tend to go for the "my little pony" FULL rainbow of colors in waves. It's way more manly that way... (totally kidding, but not, it really looks quite superb!😉)
Nicely explained! The finish on those parts looks great too. I like how the colour changes subtly as you change the viewing angle.
Very interesting indeed 👍
I'm really looking forward to seeing the rest of this series.
All the best to you and yours 👍 👍 👍 🍻
Looking forward to the series.
I'm restoring a single shot 16ga from the 50s and I just got done cleaning all metals and springs so I really like this trick. I've never tried it but watching this gave me hope lol. Great video my friend
Did this multi-color finish to a 22 rifle two years ago, except i quenched in oil. Its holding strong without any rust and minimal oiling in a semi-dry climate. Surface prep doesnt matter, full polish to 60 grit grinding, and no apparent added abrasion resistance. It does help wick a little oil on highly polished surfaces.
Excellent presentation. My Compliments
Great idea for series looking forward to more. Always good content.
As always cool content! Congrats from Chile 🇨🇱
Interesting. That looks pretty simple. I did a cold chemical bluing on a pistol and a broad axe that I had restored. They turned out quite nicely. That was nearly 50 years ago LOL
Good timing for the series, about to reblue my 1911 when my parts get here
Great explanation, would love to see a comparison of flame blue vs hot blue vs. nickel plated on low carbon steel
Как всегда вы молодец,,,🌟
Did you ever make more in depth videos about bluing guns? I’m currently trying to find the best way to restore and blue my old Winchester. And I want to do it cost effectively in my garage!! This video helps a lot but I could use some more info
Haven't got around to making a follow-up video yet, but it's on my to-do list.
Very interesting and informative video! Looking forward to the series, But whats behind the curtain!!!!??????
There's nothing behind the curtain-it was just to dampen the echo.
@@TheIdahoanShow good to know thank you Sir!
I'm not a fan of color case hardening in general, but that color case hardening effect you mentioned does sound quite interesting.
Tannia/Tannic acid can be used to apply ferric tannate protective coat on Iron/Steel objects. I heard Tannia/Tannic acid can be extract from plants like Oak/Oak leaves and many more. Tannic acid is an essential ingredient required to "tanning" leather, right? Might be something to assimilate into your set of knowledge as pioneer.
Isn't the structural integrity of the metal weakened on a shotgun barrel
If you're heating it below a dull glow, probably not. He does mention watching out for overheating small protrusions. HOWEVER, one warning is for gun barrels with beads, ribs, and/or sights. Beads and ribs are often soldered or brazed with brass onto barrels, and sights often have brass components. It's very easy to ruin the soldering or brazing this way, and the brass components of a sight could warp or detatch. But a bare steel barrel like he uses in the vid should be fine (unless it's cooled rapidly resulting in warping).
What if you essentially did the same technique as Japanese sword smiths do for the "hamon"?
Apply some sort of compound to the metal where you do not want as much colour, do the flame bluing process, remove the compound and then repeat the flame bluing process in those areas.
@333badcat the purpose would be to prevent the metal from coming in contact with oxygen in the air, leaving those spots unblued in the first pass.
When I do flame bluing like this I tend to go for the "my little pony" FULL rainbow of colors in waves. It's way more manly that way... (totally kidding, but not, it really looks quite superb!😉)
Not kidding either, did that on my Dad's trigger guard...