As a former Lexus master technician, seeing this reminds me of the time I resurrected my race damaged GT500. 2 weeks straight staying in the shop after my shift, pulling my busted Shelby in and tearing it down to tackle the next mechanical damage. Id stay late, sometimes after night crew went home, to mechanically rebuild the car before sending it to the body shop. Worth it, got my car back on the road. Final alignment spec was exactly as it was before the wreck. And for everyone criticizing these dudes: working on your own junk is a different world compared to servicing customer cars, especially Lexus cars.
OMG, for real! I saw that terrible thing and cringed. For all purpose ring compressor, I really like this cheapie: www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR93I?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 But nothing beats a boresize specific piston funnel.
See these the type of Guys I love seeing working together having fun and at the same time taking care of fuckin bizness doing it! & Chris is made for the camera 😂 no doubt 😂 he's hilariously funny
How do you push oil into the motor with the oil pan off ? If you look there are 2 ports that feed the oil into the filter than into the block, without the pan all your doing is filling the port between the pump and the filter. The easy way to prime is once assembled with the oil pan on pull the large plug on the side of the drivers side of the engine near the pump, hook up a drill powered pump to the port and feed it oil while turning the motor over with a ratchet. That way you'll lube everything from the mains to the rockers.
Or just leave the plugs out , coils disconnected , injectors disconnected and crank on the starter . You'll have pressure in around four turns , if not something is wrong .
I have a tsp 408 ls I'm putting in my 95 silverado and after I get used to the power I'm gonna boost it and hope the built 60e holds considering it was in a 1150 hp Camaro but this truck weighs more
I did this once. Instead of pulling off heads I opened up the blocked ones with a pin punch tool then bought steam vent delete covers for the rear open ones
Awesome Content, So what's Yall thought on a 416 Stroker 6.2 Built Bullet Proof for Low End Torque n Throttle Response for a Swap into a 96 Triple Locked Land Cruiser on 35" w 4:88 Gears 😎 Maybe Someday LSA Super Charged
With engine assembly - cleanliness is **truly** next to godliness. Everything oughtta be absolutely spotless and you shouldn't trust your part suppliers to have perfectly cleaned stuff before shipping to you. Also, I know it's very commonly done the way y'all did, in an open shop environment - but it's a bad idea. There's just too much dust, dirt and debris in an open shop. Plus, I see overhead fans - which are circulating whatever airborne particles and trash happen to be in your shop while other people are sweeping, blasting, grinding, etc... Bad idea. Change that oil after the first 15 minutes of runtime! Not blasting you guys - happy to see youngsters interested in this stuff. Just offering friendly constructive criticism!
At the Chevrolet complex when they build them bad a$$ Corvette engines they are fully assembled in a big room and even machines put them together in a big room.
What up guy's just brought a cam for my 6.0and lifter for my Yukon Denali xl any other options don't wanna stop here what other head's can I use as well piston in the ls family make good power
You would have looked a lot cooler if you would have put head studs in it but next time you'll get her done. Maybe even a bad boy with half inch ones. Great job though liking the video so far.
Thanks for doing the video Personal opinion, but while you were there, you should have deleted the Active Fuel Management (DOD). The AFM lifters are a known point of failure Many will also disable the Variable Valve Timing as well Oh well, next time
If you set ring gap at the very top of the bore its wrong. You have to go deeper into the bore where the rings live. I wonder if this engine is still alive.
If the bore are honed what difference will it make, non, because the bore is the same diameter. In fact if a honing plate is used, then the gab should be measured towards the top of the bore
Washer on that head bolt you put on needs to be flipped over. You put it on wrong. Well it looked like you did. Sounds like a joke but they do go on a certain way
@@BoBuilds yes I have an L 92 engine and I want to know if the engine is the same like the lq9 or lq4 because I want to swap the cam! I'm just want to make sure it's going to be the same steps! Thanks for replying
The differences are.. Lq9 has a rear mounted cam shaft position sensor. L92 has a timing cover mounted cam sensor. Lq9 has a simple 3 bolt cam sprocket L92 has a single bolt cam sprocket and variable valve actuator built into the cam sprocket. Its the same steps but you need to decide if you going to keep variable valve timing or not. That will mean running a single bolt or 3 bolt camshaft
GreaseMonkeyMods Since once you get this going you know you gonna wanna put a turbo on it at some point so I would set them at 28/30 while you are assembling it now this way you can turn it up later and not have to worry or take it apart to reset the ring gap. Nice work
@@BoBuilds For NA, 0.004 or 0.005" per bore is just fine on the top. Just ever slightly more for the bottom ring. For boost or N2O, 0.007 or 0.008" per inch of bore is better. Just remember - only YOU will know if the ring gap is too loose, while EVERYONE will know if it was too tight!
Yeah Texas speed made it real easy. Logos on rods faced forward, valve reliefs all inward for intake valves. So ended up with 4 and 4 directional rods and pistons that had to be on their correct side
As a former Lexus master technician, seeing this reminds me of the time I resurrected my race damaged GT500. 2 weeks straight staying in the shop after my shift, pulling my busted Shelby in and tearing it down to tackle the next mechanical damage. Id stay late, sometimes after night crew went home, to mechanically rebuild the car before sending it to the body shop.
Worth it, got my car back on the road. Final alignment spec was exactly as it was before the wreck.
And for everyone criticizing these dudes: working on your own junk is a different world compared to servicing customer cars, especially Lexus cars.
Your a badass dude 🤘
Tip
Put the cam in first. Rotating assembly will be out and you can help guide the cam in through the block
It really is amazing how simple these engines are to build.
Bud spend the money and buy you a good ring compressor, great video.
OMG, for real! I saw that terrible thing and cringed. For all purpose ring compressor, I really like this cheapie: www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR93I?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
But nothing beats a boresize specific piston funnel.
Those arp bolt washers got angled side up. 👀
lexus techs building a general motors engine in a lexus service department
(i fucking love it)
See these the type of Guys I love seeing working together having fun and at the same time taking care of fuckin bizness doing it! & Chris is made for the camera 😂 no doubt 😂 he's hilariously funny
Right on! They have personality, especially Chris. We have to torque the head bolts this way Chris, ok? Sounds very nice! LoL
How do you push oil into the motor with the oil pan off ? If you look there are 2 ports that feed the oil into the filter than into the block, without the pan all your doing is filling the port between the pump and the filter. The easy way to prime is once assembled with the oil pan on pull the large plug on the side of the drivers side of the engine near the pump, hook up a drill powered pump to the port and feed it oil while turning the motor over with a ratchet. That way you'll lube everything from the mains to the rockers.
Or just leave the plugs out , coils disconnected , injectors disconnected and crank on the starter . You'll have pressure in around four turns , if not something is wrong .
I have a tsp 408 ls I'm putting in my 95 silverado and after I get used to the power I'm gonna boost it and hope the built 60e holds considering it was in a 1150 hp Camaro but this truck weighs more
Life of a dealership tech, it’s nice to work on your own stuff but that doesn’t make money. Dope build
Its a START to BIG HP builders
These guys crack me up. Nice work on the build
Heads are on backwards the steam ports are now in rear and fronts are plugged.
Surprised you caught that! We had to run a coolant hose from the back steam port up to the radiator 😂 we made it work
@@BoBuilds open what's now front and use all 4
I did this once. Instead of pulling off heads I opened up the blocked ones with a pin punch tool then bought steam vent delete covers for the rear open ones
Rookie mistake! Heads are on backwards! But good job on the build! Really clean job.. keep it up guys. New sub..
Need alignment tools for the front & rear cover too. You might get lucky, but the main seals often leak w/o proper alignment.
There is one thing I know. You guys are professional mechanics. Most mechanics can't do this job.
You guys did good but I woul have RTVed that oil pan, and head studded the heads
Episode 2 👀👀
Great to see it's a LS Motor
Good stuff but holy smokes on the lube. The crankshaft journals, piston wrist pins and cam don’t need that much lube.
Other than that, good stuff.
You guys are doing a great job🤘
Awesome Content, So what's Yall thought on a 416 Stroker 6.2 Built Bullet Proof for Low End Torque n Throttle Response for a Swap into a 96 Triple Locked Land Cruiser on 35" w 4:88 Gears 😎
Maybe Someday LSA Super Charged
With engine assembly - cleanliness is **truly** next to godliness. Everything oughtta be absolutely spotless and you shouldn't trust your part suppliers to have perfectly cleaned stuff before shipping to you. Also, I know it's very commonly done the way y'all did, in an open shop environment - but it's a bad idea. There's just too much dust, dirt and debris in an open shop. Plus, I see overhead fans - which are circulating whatever airborne particles and trash happen to be in your shop while other people are sweeping, blasting, grinding, etc... Bad idea. Change that oil after the first 15 minutes of runtime!
Not blasting you guys - happy to see youngsters interested in this stuff. Just offering friendly constructive criticism!
At the Chevrolet complex when they build them bad a$$ Corvette engines they are fully assembled in a big room and even machines put them together in a big room.
What about the con roads bearing!!! Easy to install before install the piston
Yo is that chris stokes????? Tell him me and jose where in superstreet together at UTI with Mr Keefer lmao wth!!!! That boy jose said wassup
Lmao
Can yall post the link for the pistons and rods and bearings? Sure would appreciate it.
Lmao you guys are awesome and have great personalities.
Bad ass motor/ decent smartcar
Nice job 😳😲🤠💯💯💯💯💯
Thank you!
ALLDATA says to torque the first 10 head bolts 3 passes 1st pass 22ftlbs 2nd pass 90 degrees 3rd pass 70 degrees
That sounds like specs for GM tty bolts
What up guy's just brought a cam for my 6.0and lifter for my Yukon Denali xl any other options don't wanna stop here what other head's can I use as well piston in the ls family make good power
Nice mods guys!!!! Enjoyed the vid.
Are you from Alvin tx? Random i know but I went to Alvin high
I wish u could of shown the ring configuration I had to screenshot and pause the video to guess the last two
How reliable would this be? I found a fully built g5 camaro for sale. Plan on using as a daily along with my c5
You would have looked a lot cooler if you would have put head studs in it but next time you'll get her done. Maybe even a bad boy with half inch ones. Great job though liking the video so far.
Alright god damn it it’s been a year where is ep 2? lol
😂 I need to get with him and make a video. He's been daily driven this motor for 1 year and its still going
@@BoBuilds please do lol I’m dying to see how it’s held up
Hell yeah man.
What kind of cam are y'all using?
Nice stuff just the rods and pistons how much ??
good work fellas
Thank you!
No rod barrings??
Whats the instrumental in the beginning
Stock crankshaft?
Thanks for doing the video
Personal opinion, but while you were there, you should have deleted the Active Fuel Management (DOD). The AFM lifters are a known point of failure
Many will also disable the Variable Valve Timing as well
Oh well, next time
its an LS3, no AFM/DOD, the L99 had DOD. based on the valley cover alone there is no AFM.
I don’t think GM cars with manual transmission have AFM/ DOD
If you set ring gap at the very top of the bore its wrong. You have to go deeper into the bore where the rings live.
I wonder if this engine is still alive.
That sounds like it would help better doing it the way you said.....but yeah I heard that same engine is still running.
Yep still going stronh
If the bore are honed what difference will it make, non, because the bore is the same diameter. In fact if a honing plate is used, then the gab should be measured towards the top of the bore
They let you do this at work? Like while on the clock
Yep as long as were caught up and have an open repair order for liability reasons
@@BoBuilds that is awesome! 99 out of 100 places will not let you do that.
I didn't see rod bearings.
Washer on that head bolt you put on needs to be flipped over. You put it on wrong. Well it looked like you did. Sounds like a joke but they do go on a certain way
Go head guys do you lol
Can never have enough lube,lol!!!!!!!!
All that lube I thought I was watching a beginning of a porn for a minute there.
Que tal compa! Una pregunta !! quiero cambiar un cam pero mi motor es un 6.2 l92 ls y quiero saber si es lo mismo que un lq9
Sorry I can't read Spanish very well. Are you asking if an L92 is the same as an lq9?
@@BoBuilds yes I have an L 92 engine and I want to know if the engine is the same like the lq9 or lq4 because I want to swap the cam! I'm just want to make sure it's going to be the same steps! Thanks for replying
The differences are..
Lq9 has a rear mounted cam shaft position sensor. L92 has a timing cover mounted cam sensor.
Lq9 has a simple 3 bolt cam sprocket
L92 has a single bolt cam sprocket and variable valve actuator built into the cam sprocket.
Its the same steps but you need to decide if you going to keep variable valve timing or not. That will mean running a single bolt or 3 bolt camshaft
@@BoBuilds I'm gonna change cam and valve springs! Like you did on the Chevy nova I just want to make sure is gona be the same steps thanks
LS swap the world.
Build a new motor and use an old oil pump??????????
Ring gap way too tight.
We never said what we gapped the rings at tho. Just what texas speed recommends. What gap would you suggest
GreaseMonkeyMods
Since once you get this going you know you gonna wanna put a turbo on it at some point so I would set them at 28/30 while you are assembling it now this way you can turn it up later and not have to worry or take it apart to reset the ring gap. Nice work
@@BoBuilds For NA, 0.004 or 0.005" per bore is just fine on the top. Just ever slightly more for the bottom ring. For boost or N2O, 0.007 or 0.008" per inch of bore is better. Just remember - only YOU will know if the ring gap is too loose, while EVERYONE will know if it was too tight!
Any boost or spray is gonna break a ring land
Heads are on backwards
Yep! Lol we noticed that i was like fuuuuuuuuuu 😂 we were able to run the steam port from the rear up to the fro t and all seems good so far
Just get the older style bolt on block offs for the rear and pull the plugs out of the steam ports on the front and bolt it back on 👌
F BomB sorry
Not watching foul language
😂
So many mistakes in this vid........
How bout you let me know what mistakes were made so I can learn, and anyone reading can know the correct way to do it
Did yall make sure the rods are on the correct side? One side is tapered where it connects to the crank.
Yeah Texas speed made it real easy. Logos on rods faced forward, valve reliefs all inward for intake valves. So ended up with 4 and 4 directional rods and pistons that had to be on their correct side
Way too much assembly lube
@@cassandraclark8568 nope . You can never have too much ass lube
Sorry, had to stop. Clueless.