6 Bad Torque Converter Symptoms and Replacement Cost
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
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A torque converter is a fluid coupling that converts engine torque to transmission torque, to put it simply. It is bolted directly to a "flex plate" that is rotated by the crankshaft and mounted between the engine and transmission.
Timecode:
00:00:00 - Bad Torque Converter Symptoms
00:00:51 - Overheating
00:01:15 - Slipping
00:01:41 - Contaminated Transmission Fluid
00:02:10 - Shuddering
00:02:38 - Strange or Unusual Sounds
00:02:50 - Higher Stall Speed or Gear Engagement RPM
00:03:26 - Common Causes of Torque Converter Problems
00:03:38 - Damaged Torque Converter Seals
00:04:02 - Faulty Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
00:04:25 - Worn Torque Converter Clutch
00:04:55 - Bad Torque Converter Needle Bearings
00:05:14 - Torque Converter Replacement Cost
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I guessed right 8 months ago my torque converter and pump were on their last leg. But since I'm not doing it I wanted all the clutches, sprag, bearings, valve body, snap rings, bands, etc to be replaced too. The OD spring is under so many pounds of pressure it's actually killed people when unwitting people take it apart. If I was going to do it I would have put a different trans go kit in the valve body and I would have ordered the tail piece where the OD is set up on this transmission already remanufactured because I don't have a press for that. I don't have a transmission jack anymore but I would have designed a cradle to be attached to my 3 ton floor jack. I just didn't really want to do it. I spend more days recovering my upper body from just sleeping it's not worth it. It's a little bit of work. I remember the early A500 and 518 had a plastic overrunning clutch. It would melt in the hydraulic fluid. The RH transmissions were better in some ways and in some ways not but both could be made so good it's hard to break them. But so can the e4od, 4l60e and 4r70w of the same period. The 4l60(plain and e) and the 4r70w were better from the factory than the Dodge 46rh and 46re. Mopar had some excellent ideas and a lot of them before any other manufacturer BUT a lot of the time they had poor execution by the mid 70s anyway, if not sooner. I wish mine were like an 86 360 with a plain 727 and maybe.. what was it i think about 3.21 rear gears. 2nd gen with 9.25 had 3.21, 3.55, and 3.73 and 3/4 and up could have 4.10. But I don't know the exact numbers on the first generation.
This was a surprisingly thorough video. Great stuff
Glad you liked it!
Very top presentation about Torque converter
Never seen a better video with text to talk
Very good!
😊good info I like it
I have ford focus 2015 transmission problem 5/6 kilometers drive running after not working transmission. Reverse good work. Not any noise. Transmission oil running time throwing back
i have a fusion 2014 with P0741 DTC CODE but it throws the code only when traveling at 55-65mph, what is the cosg aprox for the repair?
Got a buddy with a v6 1998 jeep grand cherokee and his will act like it slips if you drive it normally/lightly but also slips to catch up from accelerating through it (not doing that anymore, what's the point) and also it does not go into park, the e-brake is park right now and he has to start the car in neutral, not park. What does all this mean and what could be potential culprits?
96 ford ranger xlt 2 wheel drive 4.0l will only go into P but R N D 2 1 will only move forward would you know why this is happening?
My 2002 Ford Taurus shutters in the front end only upon acceleration. Like starting from a stop, when I give it gas, it shutters but then it quits after I get to about 15 mph... But I never let it shudder that long.....it's pretty vicious. Any ideas? It only happens when it's in gear. Sitting idling, I can floor it and nothing happens. Only in gear
Paldies par informaciju 0:59
I got a 1999 ford 150 brand new engine and first started to shake around 45 now it shakes all the time can this be torque converter going bad
Great explanation .probably 1 of the least understood parts of the car . Including by mechanics .good video for all to watch .
Make sure to send in care torque converter and then install new so they have time to team change. Thanks drive safe everyone.
My 2001 2500hd silverado with a 6.0 lq4 trans was rebuilt to stage 2 like 3 years ago and a stock converter with a billet piston and it just started shaking almost a year ago starts shaking at around 55mph and stops right when i let off the gas then just get on the gas again it shakes again and im pretty positive its the converter
I own a jaguar s type 3.0 v6 gearbox zf, on 4th gear there are some noises and little difficult to shift down when pushing the throttle pedal. I think it's time to a oil change, isn't it?
Is the torque converter condemned when there's a slight crack?
I have a 2002 Dodge Durango it got black fluid and now has high gears shifts I was randomly driving and that happened one day it was red next day it was black after high gear shifts started to happen
I replaced my mazda demio dw3w engine but work get into any gear the transmission oil is not circulating at all no tourque but no leaks someone help it's an automatic transmission gear box
I have a 2009 tahoe with the 6l80 and it shakes in 3rd 4th and 5th gear and revs up before it shifts, do you think that would be torque converter issues or transmission issues? Shifts good otherwise. It starts shaking right as soon as you put it in drive.
Both. the 6l80 transmission itself is not very reliable. It has lots of problems related to cracks in pistons, slipping 2nd and 3rd gears, cracked drum, skipping gears, cracked clutch drum (I'm gonna make a video about this transmission).
But it can be also a torque converter.
To determine the exact cause of the problem, it's recommended to have a qualified mechanic or a transmission specialist perform a thorough diagnosis. They can use diagnostic tools to read any trouble codes stored in the vehicle's computer system, conduct a visual inspection, and perform various tests on the transmission and torque converter.
I put mine in dirve and it wont move unless i floor it but i put it on second and it moves. Oddly enough its a new trans and converter
I have an issue with my car, similar to this symptoms. Has a whine, slams gears, and leaks fluid. When its driven at first, the whine goes away at higher speeds. (20-45mph) After a while however, the car starts reving between gears, or when I try accelerating faster. Overheating is also an issue, the car starts shaking like im on a rocky road. Would it be safe to say that the whole transmission is faulty?
Yes! Based on the symptoms you have described, it's possible that there is a problem with your car's transmission.
The whine you hear could indicate that there is an issue with the transmission's gears or bearings.
The slamming of gears and the revving between gears could also be signs of transmission problems, as could the fluid leak.
Additionally, the shaking you describe when the car overheats could indicate that the transmission is not functioning properly.
There’s a vibration that correlates with the engine speed around 45-50 mph. Would the torque converter be the cause of this?
It is possible that the torque converter could be causing the vibration at the engine speed you mentioned.
However, there could be other causes of the vibration as well, such as worn out engine or transmission mounts, imbalanced wheels or tires, or issues with the suspension or drivetrain components.
My car LC200 vibrates when the speed reach 120 km/h and above, especially while releasing the gas pedal (decelerating) the vibration felt more on the dashboard, steering and overhead. had tried to do wheel balancing, rotation and allignment twice but didn’t work. Had replaced the wheel propeller shaft cross joint, not help also. Not sure what is the issue. May it be caused by bad torque converter?
My ram 2012 1500 5.7 hemi 66rfe some times on reverse or drive low rpm chokes afr to 20 for 5 sec then runs fine
I have a 2002 Silverado I can prolly drive it up the street but it will slow all the way down and the engine just starts to rev at high rpms I’ll have to turn it off for bout 30 seconds and crank it up for it to move again and it does not go over 30-40 mph. I think it is the torque converter when it warms up. Do you think this could be the problem?
Yes! Based on the symptoms you described, it is possible that the issue you're experiencing could be related to the torque converter.
It makes the engine rev too high and the car too slow. It also slips and reduces power and speed.
That's exactly the problem I'm experiencing. Leaning towards a faulty torque converter
Hi,
I have a 2009 corrolla, with about 140000 miles. Over the last 18 months, especially during cold start up after which when you engage the tranny, car will not attempt to move at all. Over time I come to the realization that when I engaga low gear(1) and put on hand brake and leave car to run for about 25 minutes that is when you start feeling a jerk of car readiness to move.Within 25 minutes engine would have warmed up to normal mid temperature.
It's complicated because I don't have any issue of check engine light on.
It was only once that i was using car in the same manner that code P2757 which points to TCC selonoid.
There after it has not shown up again.
Almost every tranny service centre gives me a different diagnosis of what they think the issue really is.
On cold start and on "D" you can rev the engine full throttle and it won't move.
An indication of movement is after engine really is warmed up. Fluid is normal gauge, not dirty. And funny thing shifts very smoothly and normal after it's heated up. Any leads especially since I'm using tjis car outside of US. In Ghana at the moment.
It could be a solenoid or a more serious issue with the clutch packs. Electrical issues could be a concern, but it doesn't seem very likely.
Once it warms up, do you notice any transmission "slipping" under full throttle from a stop or passing on the highway?
@@Shade_Tree_Mechanic Notice they've never answered
Hi, I have a Titan 2007 that tends to slip only a little like 100rpm(not 1,000) from 1st to 2nd gear and 2nd to 3rd(More noticeable after vehicle warmup). You can also feel that the vehicle kinda holds back after every shift even when cold, like when you drive a manual vehicle and use the clutch to change gears and you feel that momentarily hold down. Vehicle has 220,000 miles. I have it since 167,000 miles and changed the transmission fluid around 210,000. Around 200,000 miles one hose broke and lost a lot of fluid. Couldn't tell what color was it by the time it broke. topped it off with new fluid. Another hose broke around 205,000 miles and decided to change the fluid by removing the pan, also changed filter inside transmission. The filter was very clean😮, installed a new one anyway. I used Valvoline full synthetic max life multi vehicle fluid. Do you think a Lucas slip fix can help or is it something more serious? Thanks!
Did you end up getting this fixed?
Llllpl
Please do not use Lucas slip fix, it swells the seals until they blow, this sounds like valve body and valve body solenoid replacements are needed, or just buy a valve body solenoid pack and valve body drop in shift kit and fix it yourself, the valve body replacement or repair doesn’t require the transmission to come out of the vehicle, you see that thing right by where you took the filter off, that’s your valve body.
But with the fluid having gotten low sadly you may have burned up clutches in the shift drums and torque converter, but they can be more resilient than you think as long as they weren’t driven long on low fluid and you stopped the vehicle immediately
I have a 2007 honda pilot it goes on park and drive but just rolls that i have to put on ebrake. When i have it on drive it just rolls even if i give it alot of gas.
And it made some whirring noise before this happened.
My 4L60E shifts in and out of overdrive at 55-65 MPH. It does it about 5 times in a 30 minute drive. Any ideas?
Check the valve body
How do they prevent oil leaking out of the bearing where the impeller and turbine go into the torque converter?
Had anyone played around with variable vanes in a torque converter, to completely eliminate the need for a gearbox? (Variable came technology could even permit a reverse rotation of the turbine.
Torque converters look such an elegant method of cooling. The technology has actually been known for over 100 years. In surprised nobody's made further innovations with them. I'm a medic by used to be an engineer. I wish I had the time and equipment to design and create my ie of "geared" torque converters. (Which in essence is two or more torque converters, which each have their own levels of torque multiplication. I've also thought of a centrifugal pump expelling the fluid into another centrifugal pump and thereby transferring the power from one one to the other. Fluid, although it has losses doesn't have any friction and with lockup clutch technology, those losses can be greatly minimised.
I have a 97 Ram 1500 5.2 4x4 with 177000 miles. The truck doesn't stall on me, but it slips gears a lot and it likes to rev really high in between gears. Don't know what to do. Have any ideas?
Based on the symptoms you described, it is possible that there may be an issue with the transmission. The slipping gears and high revving between gears can be a sign of a worn out or damaged transmission.
Check the transmission fluid level and watch for leaks. Check the transmission filter - a clogged filter can cause shifting issues. Try to check for error codes... Wish you good luck!
Can you explain why my CVT car moves from 0 to 100mph well, but it starts making some whinning noise and doesn't go more than that sometimes it struggles reaching 120mph on the highway. i normally change recommended transmission fluid as scheduled, as well as the transmission filter, and still having that problem. I diagnosed it on machine but no any trouble codes, for engine also nothing, what can be done????
Hi! First of all, I'd assume overheating.
CVTs are known to generate heat during high-speed driving. If the transmission fluid isn't properly cooled or there are cooling system issues, the transmission can overheat, leading to a loss of power and the whining noise you mentioned.
It can be also belt or chain slippage: CVTs use either a belt or a chain to transfer power between the engine and wheels. If the belt or chain is worn, damaged, or slipping, it can result in a loss of power and the whining noise you hear. This could explain why your car struggles to reach higher speeds.
@@carproblemsmax Thank you so much for a well explanation, now what can be done???? I agree about overheating because in the evening it goes very well, reaching 120mph and keeps going, what can i do, seems on hot whether it overheats.
@@edwinalexander1170 Why are you going 120? If your car works fine below that - stick with that and keep the rest of us safe. Thanks.
@@jaym5938 Because it used to be going well and up to more than 100mph, but now it struggles, it sometimes not good especially when overtaking, i feel like lose power. And is dangerous on the highway.
Hello, I own a Mercedes w212. I replaced the engine, but before I installed the transmission on the engine, I poured new oil into the torque converter nozzle, and I think I put a large amount, about one liter, in addition to what was inside. Zero I feel that the engine revs up a lot and the car has not started yet or it is taking off slowly. I face this problem only between the first and second gears, and the rear speed I feel the most. Is this because of the much oil that you added to the torque converter?
you already resolved this problem most likely, but the normal, correct way to check transmission fluid is after the fluid has gotten up to temperature and cycled through all the gears, but has not been turned off (I.e. turn it on, take a 20 minute drive that includes using reverse, park it, check it before you turn the engine off)
2016 Chevy Silverado taking very long time to change gears!
💪👍
Let’s see if anyone can help me. My 2013 Toyota 4Runner will drive perfectly fine. But when going in between 30-40 mph my rpm revs up and down between 1100-1800 but no noises. No shaking or shuddering. It’s stalled on me while doing this only twice. It only happens between 30-40mph and it does NOT happen when I have my cruise control on any speed in between 30 and 40 but my mechanic is swearing to me that it’s a torque converter and I think it’s not that. Any help??
Hey there! Here are a few things you could check out for the issue with your 2013 Toyota 4Runner. It might be related to the transmission, so make sure to check the transmission fluid level and condition. Another possibility is a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS), which can mess with your RPMs. Vacuum leaks, a dirty mass airflow sensor (MAF), or fuel system problems could also be causing the trouble. It's best to have a mechanic take a look and get a second opinion if needed. Good luck!
Have you checked the VVTI Valve solenoid. Normally located on the engine towards the fire wall. Its easy to replace but the part is not cheap. Its held by two, some versions have three 10mm bolts.
Your pricing should take into account the range of pricing across states. In California you will not get a TC fix for that price.
If it's online it doesn't matter the price in CA. We all pay that price.
If you're going into a shop to have one built or buy a reman or built tc, then yes CA is going to be higher
New sacs please help dammy with sacs torque converter thanks.
Hi, can a bad torque converter cause a car to drive but not change the gears
Hi! Yes, it can. If the torque converter fails, it can cause a loss of power and torque to the transmission, which can prevent the transmission from changing gears.
@@carproblemsmax thanks i will look in too it
I just paid $3,109 for my torque converter replacement on my 2008 for ranger
That is very high in my opinion, you can get a recon torque converter (known to be pretty good as an O.E.M replacement) for about 250 or less and get a pan gasket, new filter, and enough fluid to do a triple fluid change to get all the gunk from the old torque converter out for around 250 or less depending on how good of fluid you want to use, so 500 in parts 3100 dollar job 2600 labor seems too high.
Should be 1000 parts and labor
Yikes!
Stateer
well done video
- pity that the technical descriptions are a load of codswallop
My car go on neutral when I stop at stop signs
Dum when I ask then after so long I never responds complaining see now vehicle down pay different car transmission shot have next from US and there's did same one day of driving
Informative video. I have a 2012 Ford F150 5.0 AUTOMATIC 2 wheel drive and when I decelerate I hear a slight whining noise between decelerating from 60 down to 40, but none during acceleration. Transmission shifts great, no slippage or slow engagement. Was wondering if it could be torue converter or transmission. When I decelerate, I put it in neutral while moving and the whining stops but starts again when I engage transmission back in drive. ?????
It could be caused by a failing torque converter or a transmission issue. It's recommended to have a qualified mechanic perform a diagnostic test to determine the root cause of the problem and make any necessary repairs.
That’s definitely your torque converter change it while you can and save your transmission