Thank you for explaining that bit on the back i dropped it found the bits but couldn,t work out what order they went back in. Thanks again Great video 😊👍👍👍
In the past, I have removed the roll pin in the inlet head and using fine valve grinding paste and a piece of glass polished out most and sometimes all of the wear lines, I have also done that with an engine oi pump which had the same issue.
I did some (slightly pessimistic) sums on the effect of the wear on the end plate of mine and this suggested it could reduce the pump output by as much as 30% which would be enough to affect the fueling. So I decided to stone the face flat again (heart in mouth time). It took quite a while but worked out fine. I did find a UK source for a genuine Delfi end plate with steel insert in the UK but decided to try to keep the thing as original as possible (the tractor is a bit tatty but has all those "Made in England" bits I like to keep if I can). In practice I didn't notice much difference having done the job. My only issue is a very occasional hesitation on pickup at around 800 rpm if she has been running at low rpm for ages. One rev up and it clears so not a big issue (possibly a slightly sticky control valve but I don't know.)
Great feedback Colin, really appreciate you taking the time. I was tempted to mill it flat myself but wasn't sure what else that might affect, so good to know it's a possibility for the future. Thanks again mate, really useful information and great to hear from you 👍
@@myharris Many thanks for the reply. Looking at my notes it's 7 years since I delved into the back end of the pump and mine, for some reason, has a slightly different arrangement for the regulator. It has an extra spring above the piston so there is a light, long spring down the middle of a shorter stiffer spring. It also has two bypass holes, the lower 1.25mm diameter and the upper of 2.5mm diameter. I had a bit of fun "walking in the footsteps" of the original designers by sticking the spring rates etc. onto a spreadsheet to work out how the pressure would vary with rpm and thought just how much hard work the original guys would have had with slide-rule and log tables to do what a click of a mouse allowed me to calculate. It set me wondering if they did this sort of thing by calculation or experimentation - I guess we will never know for sure.
Best of luck with it, Max. I'd never done one of these before and I'm all thumbs, so you'll find it a doddle. You've probably found Lance's channel on Bundy Bear's Shed already, but if not, check him out. He's got a couple of excellent videos on this pump too, well worth a look before you start.
Thanks, very nice video. I rebuilt my 35X CAV pump too this spring, but now its like it won't get as high rev's as it should, I get stuck at 2000/min while spec says 2200 (35X multipower). I forgot which holes I used for the governor springs (of course) - how is your running with the "middle-middle" combination?
Hi Per, sorry for the delay in replying, we're in the middle of haymaking. Honestly, it's been working just fine. Can't say I've taken it to 2000rpm though, about 1600-1700 is all I've needed to run the PTO. Are you running a belt pulley or something that needs high revs?
@@myharrisThanks for getting g back. My main con ern is a very low idle when warn, and I was thinking it could be due to a wrong setting of the spring, so the rpms are offset so to say. I didnt touch the adjustmnt screews for the gas lever, so it cant be that whocause the low idle. I only use my tractor for cutting grass and it has enough power, so I don't need the extra ram...and they would probably be harmful for the engine too for lo gerne periods.
@@perterslse2543 Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Might be as simple as that. From memory, the manual specifies an idle speed of 450rpm, which I have to say sounds high on mine, I keep meaning to experiment adjusting it down but haven't got round to it yet. If it's running smoothly otherwise, I'd try adjusting the idle screw. Might help with the top-end revs as well ;-)
not sure if you have fixed your issue yet, but there is a code you can use to find the right holes on your cav injection pump and there is on number on the pump that you will need for this. first number after the forward slash. tell me the number and ill tell you the holes.
@@goodbyemr.anderson5065 Yes, on my 35x the code is 3 and this corresponds to the top hole at the governor end and the 3rd hole at the throttle spindle end (the one giving the most spring tension). This combination should give the highest RPM available for the given spring so using anything else is likely to result in the engine not reaching the 2250 rpm maximum (the plate on my pump for some reason actually specs a 2390 max no-load speed)
Hey Joseph, you can download manuals for free over at Lance Maskell's website: queenslandtractorspares.com.au/technical/ Check out his UA-cam channel, he's a pro tractor guy and has a series on rebuilding a number of different Massy Ferguson tractors.
Nice detailed video with no missing info, thanks. What an amazing bit of engineering these 'mechanical computers' are.
Glad it helped. Incredible how robust these things are. It was still working after 60 years! Appreciate your feedback, thanks 👍
Love to watch a craftsman at work. Thank you.
You're very welcome Doug, thanks again for taking the time. Best of luck with your rebuild mate, do let me know how you get on. All the best 👍
Thank you for explaining that bit on the back i dropped it found the bits but couldn,t work out what order they went back in. Thanks again Great video 😊👍👍👍
In the past, I have removed the roll pin in the inlet head and using fine valve grinding paste and a piece of glass polished out most and sometimes all of the wear lines, I have also done that with an engine oi pump which had the same issue.
That's worth knowing, thanks for your feedback Roger. And welcome to the channel!
Very good video Harry.. probably the best.
Regards. Thorsten, Denmark 😊
Thank you for your kind words, Thorsten. Glad you liked it.
I did some (slightly pessimistic) sums on the effect of the wear on the end plate of mine and this suggested it could reduce the pump output by as much as 30% which would be enough to affect the fueling. So I decided to stone the face flat again (heart in mouth time). It took quite a while but worked out fine. I did find a UK source for a genuine Delfi end plate with steel insert in the UK but decided to try to keep the thing as original as possible (the tractor is a bit tatty but has all those "Made in England" bits I like to keep if I can).
In practice I didn't notice much difference having done the job. My only issue is a very occasional hesitation on pickup at around 800 rpm if she has been running at low rpm for ages. One rev up and it clears so not a big issue (possibly a slightly sticky control valve but I don't know.)
Great feedback Colin, really appreciate you taking the time. I was tempted to mill it flat myself but wasn't sure what else that might affect, so good to know it's a possibility for the future. Thanks again mate, really useful information and great to hear from you 👍
@@myharris Many thanks for the reply. Looking at my notes it's 7 years since I delved into the back end of the pump and mine, for some reason, has a slightly different arrangement for the regulator. It has an extra spring above the piston so there is a light, long spring down the middle of a shorter stiffer spring. It also has two bypass holes, the lower 1.25mm diameter and the upper of 2.5mm diameter. I had a bit of fun "walking in the footsteps" of the original designers by sticking the spring rates etc. onto a spreadsheet to work out how the pressure would vary with rpm and thought just how much hard work the original guys would have had with slide-rule and log tables to do what a click of a mouse allowed me to calculate.
It set me wondering if they did this sort of thing by calculation or experimentation - I guess we will never know for sure.
Very helpful, thank you, just got to do mine now!
Best of luck with it, Max. I'd never done one of these before and I'm all thumbs, so you'll find it a doddle. You've probably found Lance's channel on Bundy Bear's Shed already, but if not, check him out. He's got a couple of excellent videos on this pump too, well worth a look before you start.
Thanks very much
I've been waiting for this!
I missed how he was sure the pump was "timed" correctly?
Thanks, very nice video. I rebuilt my 35X CAV pump too this spring, but now its like it won't get as high rev's as it should, I get stuck at 2000/min while spec says 2200 (35X multipower). I forgot which holes I used for the governor springs (of course) - how is your running with the "middle-middle" combination?
Hi Per, sorry for the delay in replying, we're in the middle of haymaking. Honestly, it's been working just fine. Can't say I've taken it to 2000rpm though, about 1600-1700 is all I've needed to run the PTO. Are you running a belt pulley or something that needs high revs?
@@myharrisThanks for getting g back. My main con ern is a very low idle when warn, and I was thinking it could be due to a wrong setting of the spring, so the rpms are offset so to say. I didnt touch the adjustmnt screews for the gas lever, so it cant be that whocause the low idle. I only use my tractor for cutting grass and it has enough power, so I don't need the extra ram...and they would probably be harmful for the engine too for lo gerne periods.
@@perterslse2543 Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Might be as simple as that. From memory, the manual specifies an idle speed of 450rpm, which I have to say sounds high on mine, I keep meaning to experiment adjusting it down but haven't got round to it yet. If it's running smoothly otherwise, I'd try adjusting the idle screw. Might help with the top-end revs as well ;-)
not sure if you have fixed your issue yet, but there is a code you can use to find the right holes on your cav injection pump and there is on number on the pump that you will need for this.
first number after the forward slash. tell me the number and ill tell you the holes.
@@goodbyemr.anderson5065 Yes, on my 35x the code is 3 and this corresponds to the top hole at the governor end and the 3rd hole at the throttle spindle end (the one giving the most spring tension). This combination should give the highest RPM available for the given spring so using anything else is likely to result in the engine not reaching the 2250 rpm maximum (the plate on my pump for some reason actually specs a 2390 max no-load speed)
Quero fazer um curso....como é que eu faço
I need a manual
Hey Joseph, you can download manuals for free over at Lance Maskell's website: queenslandtractorspares.com.au/technical/ Check out his UA-cam channel, he's a pro tractor guy and has a series on rebuilding a number of different Massy Ferguson tractors.