Hi. The x ring is called that because if you cut though the ring it’s cross section is in the shape of an x. It results in a better seal and less friction than a standard o ring. The o ring in the shock adjuster is vital. It stops your ride height altering when the car is being driven. If you take the adjuster ring back off the shock and look inside the adjuster, just above the threads there is a groove. The ring sits in the groove. Once in place use a small amount of oil to lube the ring. Then re screw back on the shock. The o ring will cause resistance so the adjuster is harder to turn. This is what stops the tension backing off during the vibrations of driving. You need an extra o ring if one was missing from your box. You should have 4. One for each shock. Hope this helps.
Thanks! Yes I did think about it and found out where the x-rings fit. And yes I then are missing one. I did fix it with some rubber band, but later I gone get the x-ring that is missing. Not sure if it was missing with the kit or I just have lost it somewhere. A lot of details in these 1/10 racer buggies, and a lot of tuning options.
Hi there. Greetings from Sydney Australia. Ive nearly finished building mine, it’s my first kit also! My diffs feel tight, I used many combinations of shims and did the best I could. When I spin the dogbones the drive train moves though not very freely. Could you please me if this was your experience? Thank you.
Not sure. My car with wheels rolls quite freely. There’s thin oil in the diffs, so there isn’t much resistance in the diffs when they’re active. Make sure you’ve assembled everything correctly, and if there’s an RC club where you’ll be driving, there’s definitely someone there who can check the car. Watch out for any small plastic remnants sticking out; if so, file them down.
I’ll suggest something to you if don’t like the new battery system tape the battery in its lot easy and just leave the battery in the car until you need to pull it out the team guys do that even the fast 13.5 drivers also do it I’m one of them so just a suggestion I’m here in Southern California San Diego SD/RC is my local track but in Huntington Beach California there was teach called OC/RC Raceway they started running 13.5 there SD/RC was late getting into 13.5 I was the only local guy there running 13.5 wheeler they called it . tracks in the Midwest we’re already running so socal was late getting into 13.5 wheeler kind of funny Lol. Great video by the way cheers to you my friend.😁👍
I think the O ring needs to be fitted in the inner side of the shock collar.
Hi. The x ring is called that because if you cut though the ring it’s cross section is in the shape of an x. It results in a better seal and less friction than a standard o ring.
The o ring in the shock adjuster is vital. It stops your ride height altering when the car is being driven.
If you take the adjuster ring back off the shock and look inside the adjuster, just above the threads there is a groove. The ring sits in the groove.
Once in place use a small amount of oil to lube the ring. Then re screw back on the shock.
The o ring will cause resistance so the adjuster is harder to turn. This is what stops the tension backing off during the vibrations of driving.
You need an extra o ring if one was missing from your box. You should have 4. One for each shock.
Hope this helps.
Thanks! Yes I did think about it and found out where the x-rings fit. And yes I then are missing one. I did fix it with some rubber band, but later I gone get the x-ring that is missing. Not sure if it was missing with the kit or I just have lost it somewhere. A lot of details in these 1/10 racer buggies, and a lot of tuning options.
Hi there. Greetings from Sydney Australia. Ive nearly finished building mine, it’s my first kit also! My diffs feel tight, I used many combinations of shims and did the best I could. When I spin the dogbones the drive train moves though not very freely. Could you please me if this was your experience? Thank you.
Not sure. My car with wheels rolls quite freely. There’s thin oil in the diffs, so there isn’t much resistance in the diffs when they’re active. Make sure you’ve assembled everything correctly, and if there’s an RC club where you’ll be driving, there’s definitely someone there who can check the car. Watch out for any small plastic remnants sticking out; if so, file them down.
I’ll suggest something to you if don’t like the new battery system tape the battery in its lot easy and just leave the battery in the car until you need to pull it out the team guys do that even the fast 13.5 drivers also do it I’m one of them so just a suggestion I’m here in Southern California San Diego SD/RC is my local track but in Huntington Beach California there was teach called OC/RC Raceway they started running 13.5 there SD/RC was late getting into 13.5 I was the only local guy there running 13.5 wheeler they called it . tracks in the Midwest we’re already running so socal was late getting into 13.5 wheeler kind of funny Lol. Great video by the way cheers to you my friend.😁👍
The new battery mount works ok, a bit clumsy but not that bad. I am getting used to it now. But thanks for the comment 👍
@@B2Humla your welcome no problem.😁👍
O ring goes inside the shock collar
To keep the collar from moving when springs compress