Great vid. I just acquired a 10 inch that is in super condition. Looking forward to using it on a new bench I am planning. I like the embellishment of the raised lettering on the front. Super to see a "RECORD PLANE" being used, they are the best.
Just picked up a workbench table on Kijiji (buy/sell site Canada) with 4 Richard-Wilcox #430 x2-s Pat 1913. attached to it, all original and perfect except one handle pin has been replaced. Looks like a great restoration thanks for the tips!!
I recently acquired a really old RW 430 - so LOVED your restoration video.The 'dabbing Gold on letters' part was a nice touch - looks great, makes it pop. I'll need to figure out how to do that 'powder coat' part. I cut full piece out of my slider rail which may have complicated my install - having difficulty getting it installed aligned and solid. Mmmm ... Also - did you actually use ONLY 'Chicken Stock' to coat your wood pieces ?? Great idea & looks nice (good too know Broth is great for more that my gut biome!! 🤣) As a Film guy I enjoyed your 'cut' as well - Great job. Thanks. ♥ PS: + Thanks for the chuckle - {your "The “r” in your name is super annoying." reply. LOL} ... as an 'ol fart myself I have to admit that background tune's not my fav ... and felt like telling the rude guy "instead of being rude to the guy making an effort here - MUTE works like a charm. (+= respectful solution.) My humble background tunes suggestion!? - something like Michael Macdonald, Doobie Bros, Steely Dan, or even that genius Beethoven? ... just a thought. (+ I think even the whipper-snappers would love!) 😁 Appreciate your effort man - Thank you.
Thanks for watching Francisco! Mounting a vice with (or without) a gap is personal preference. It’s not a right or wrong topic. By mounting mine with a gap I’m able to clamp work easily without pinching my fingers (this is especially nice when joint planing two pieces at the same time for glueing). In the rare event I’m working with long stock, it is supported at the other end by a simple spacer block that I keep under the bench. I have had vices mounted flush in the past, I much prefer the gap. Cheers!
Great job! I’m doing my own restoration of the same vise. Did you machine your own rivet for the T connection or did you find it somewhere? I couldn’t find it on McMaster Carr.
Always excited to hear when people are using these old RW vices. For the T-connection I actually just used the pin from a door hinge. Worked perfect and was soft and easy to cut and peen over on the other side. Thanks for watching!
Diego Gza I’m glad you like the video! I don’t use lube on any acme thread vise screws. Lube attracts debris and causes the screw to rust and wear more than without. Just using the vise is more than enough to keep acme threads clean and smooth. Most manufactures recommend against lubricating the screw. For the guide rails and any other non-painted metal I give everything a coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
I have recently been given a Richards Wilcox vice exactly like the one you have. It is missing the the half screw which makes it absolutely inoperative. Where can I find that half screw? Nice job on the restoration of your vise
Unfortunately I almost never see parts for RW vises. Pask Makes has a great video making a half nut from scratch that I’m sure could be adapted to work. I have also seen folks re-cast those mechanisms as well. The simplest solution is to attach a nut (preferably brass) to the backside of the static jaw, and just use it as a non quick-release vise. I’m pretty sure these are just a 1” acme thread.
I saw the thumbnail and thought “wow, beautiful” - but of course it’s the “before” picture. Happens a lot. However, it’s not a bad job at all, well done. We must stop tracing the letters in the casting, though: it’s not original, and it looks tacky. I restored two vices and I have to admit I also decided to highlight the lettering unnecessarily - but I just lightly sanded off the paint on the letters, for a more authentic look.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the build, and I’m always excited for a new sub. As far as the music; it’s what all the young whipper snappers are listening to these days. Gotta stay trendy!
Interesting ( and a tad cringeworthy at times) The inner face of the vice,including the wood jaw liner , should be flush with the front edge of the bench.This is so that a large workpiece when clamped in the vice can also be clamped to the front face of the bench. If you want some gorgeous 2"x 14" seasoned English beech boards to replace the chip board thingy bench top door you are welcome . Shropshire UK Jonny .
Thanks for watching Jon. The inner static jaw liner being flush or not is a preference thing. I prefer it to not be flush so my fingers don’t get pinched every time I use it. For the few times I’m working with longer stock, the work can still be clamped to the apron on the other end with a simple spacer.
Great vid. I just acquired a 10 inch that is in super condition. Looking forward to using it on a new bench I am planning. I like the embellishment of the raised lettering on the front. Super to see a "RECORD PLANE" being used, they are the best.
Just picked up a workbench table on Kijiji (buy/sell site Canada) with 4 Richard-Wilcox #430 x2-s Pat 1913. attached to it, all original and perfect except one handle pin has been replaced. Looks like a great restoration thanks for the tips!!
unrulian, that sounds like an incredible find! I hope you put them to good use. Thanks for the comment!
Just bought an old Columbia quick-release vise that needed restoring -- this was a big help to see how you did it. Nice work!
Thanks Alan, I'm glad it helped. How did your vise turn out?
Damn dude, this is an awesome restoration. That thing looks brand new!
Thanks man!
Beautiful vice dude.
Thanks Chris!
Nice job! I need a larger vice myself, Who's the Dj?
I recently acquired a really old RW 430 - so LOVED your restoration video.The 'dabbing Gold on letters' part was a nice touch - looks great, makes it pop. I'll need to figure out how to do that 'powder coat' part. I cut full piece out of my slider rail which may have complicated my install - having difficulty getting it installed aligned and solid. Mmmm ... Also - did you actually use ONLY 'Chicken Stock' to coat your wood pieces ?? Great idea & looks nice (good too know Broth is great for more that my gut biome!! 🤣) As a Film guy I enjoyed your 'cut' as well - Great job. Thanks. ♥
PS: + Thanks for the chuckle - {your "The “r” in your name is super annoying." reply. LOL}
... as an 'ol fart myself I have to admit that background tune's not my fav ... and felt like telling the rude guy "instead of being rude to the guy making an effort here - MUTE works like a charm. (+= respectful solution.)
My humble background tunes suggestion!? - something like Michael Macdonald, Doobie Bros, Steely Dan, or even that genius Beethoven? ... just a thought. (+ I think even the whipper-snappers would love!) 😁
Appreciate your effort man - Thank you.
Where did you get the pin for the handle?
Great job... you need to find another radio station... lol..
Thanks Gary! Also... what’s a ra... radio? Am I pronouncing that right?
Really sweet man. new sub here. off to see your other stuff! want to do a colab some time?
I like that idea!
the inner jaw should be flush with the bench fascia, otherwise when clamping long boards they will be without support at the other end
Thanks for watching Francisco! Mounting a vice with (or without) a gap is personal preference. It’s not a right or wrong topic. By mounting mine with a gap I’m able to clamp work easily without pinching my fingers (this is especially nice when joint planing two pieces at the same time for glueing). In the rare event I’m working with long stock, it is supported at the other end by a simple spacer block that I keep under the bench. I have had vices mounted flush in the past, I much prefer the gap. Cheers!
Very nice job and summary video; music soundtrack distracting from the content.
Great job!
I’m doing my own restoration of the same vise. Did you machine your own rivet for the T connection or did you find it somewhere? I couldn’t find it on McMaster Carr.
Always excited to hear when people are using these old RW vices. For the T-connection I actually just used the pin from a door hinge. Worked perfect and was soft and easy to cut and peen over on the other side. Thanks for watching!
Very enjoyable video. What kind of lubricant did you use for the threads?
Diego Gza I’m glad you like the video! I don’t use lube on any acme thread vise screws. Lube attracts debris and causes the screw to rust and wear more than without. Just using the vise is more than enough to keep acme threads clean and smooth. Most manufactures recommend against lubricating the screw.
For the guide rails and any other non-painted metal I give everything a coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
Is that Low Sodium chicken stock?.......................
Haha. I should probably put some kind of disclaimer in there. It’s boiled linseed oil in an old jar. You’re not the first to ask.
I have recently been given a Richards Wilcox vice exactly like the one you have. It is missing the the half screw which makes it absolutely inoperative. Where can I find that half screw? Nice job on the restoration of your vise
Unfortunately I almost never see parts for RW vises. Pask Makes has a great video making a half nut from scratch that I’m sure could be adapted to work. I have also seen folks re-cast those mechanisms as well. The simplest solution is to attach a nut (preferably brass) to the backside of the static jaw, and just use it as a non quick-release vise. I’m pretty sure these are just a 1” acme thread.
@@PaleDogToolCo Thanks for the reply. I'll give casting a shot
Hey, what is the thread size that connects the wood jaw?
I saw the thumbnail and thought “wow, beautiful” - but of course it’s the “before” picture. Happens a lot. However, it’s not a bad job at all, well done.
We must stop tracing the letters in the casting, though: it’s not original, and it looks tacky. I restored two vices and I have to admit I also decided to highlight the lettering unnecessarily - but I just lightly sanded off the paint on the letters, for a more authentic look.
Love the build videos but that horrible skipping " music almost made me stop watching
twice but I indurred and subscribed !
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the build, and I’m always excited for a new sub. As far as the music; it’s what all the young whipper snappers are listening to these days. Gotta stay trendy!
That's Not trendy - Thats steppin' off the Deep End Man! Hahaha !
music was super annoying, ruining an otherwise good video.
The “r” in your name is super annoying, ruining an otherwise normal name.
@@PaleDogToolCo - I didn't pick my name, you picked the music, tough guy.
tough guy?
Interesting ( and a tad cringeworthy at times) The inner face of the vice,including the wood jaw liner , should be flush with the front edge of the bench.This is so that a large workpiece when clamped in the vice can also be clamped to the front face of the bench. If you want some gorgeous 2"x 14" seasoned English beech boards to replace the chip board thingy bench top door you are welcome . Shropshire UK Jonny .
Thanks for watching Jon. The inner static jaw liner being flush or not is a preference thing. I prefer it to not be flush so my fingers don’t get pinched every time I use it. For the few times I’m working with longer stock, the work can still be clamped to the apron on the other end with a simple spacer.