Sewing and fitting my bodice sloper (vintage drafting method) ✿ Flat Patternmaking Series PART 2
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- It’s time to fit my bodice sloper! In this video, I go through my process of fitting my sloper through not one… not 2… but 3 versions of the muslin. Specifically, I made modifications to the fit of the neck, the waist, the armholes, the side seams… and a peculiar horizontal excess bit of fabric.
✿ T I M E - S T A M P S ✿
00:00 introduction
01:14 how to sew the muslin
03:42 reviewing the first muslin
04:54 reviewing the second muslin
05:49 reviewing the third muslin
07:52 general tips and things to note for sewing and fitting a bodice sloper
✿ F E A T U R E D ✿
Pink and red checkered phone case: society6.com/gwenstellamade
Crochet red heart bunting on the wall: gwenstellamade.com/shop/p/swe...
✿ M E N T I O N E D ✿
Affiliate links marked with (*)
Pattern Grading and Drafting book: archive.org/details/PatternDr...
Dotted Grid paper (via Amazon*): amzn.to/3NpDtcs
My pink butcher’s paper (via Amazon*): amzn.to/3tdAXhy
✿ M Y - D E S I G N S ✿
Designs and patterns: www.etsy.com/shop/GwenHengDes...
Spoonflower: www.spoonflower.com/profiles/...
Raspberry Creek Fabrics: raspberrycreekfabrics.com/col...
Society 6: society6.com/gwenstellamade
✿ C O N N E C T ✿
Hi! My name is Gwen and I love sewing and DIY. Join me in my adventures as I pick up new skills, sew through my fabric stash and build different capsule wardrobes!
Instagram: / gwenstella.made
Blog: gwenstellamade.com
Email: gwenstella[at]gmail.com
✿ S U P P O R T ✿
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In hindsight, I even wonder if the horizontal excess is meant to accomodate bullet bras? The drafting instructions are from the 60’s after all! What do you think? 🤔🧐
Oh thank you Gwen..you have saved my sanity 😂. I have this book and have been trying to draft a sloper from it. I am 70 and teaching myself to let up my brain, but it was driving me crazy. Each time I did a draft it was different from the other. The muslins were building up on the floor to an embarrassing degree and still no perfect fit. I am 4'10" but with 37" bust, and I range from size 11 to size 20 in that book. No wonder it's so hard to buy anything to fit! Your tips on varying some measurements, eg high bust and bust were just lightly mome ts. Why not! Stop following the rules😂. Also the magical appearance of a completely different bodice top draft in the same book was amazing.
I am taking a deep breath, putting the muslin pile out of sight. (They make good compost I think). And going again.
If you can do it..and your dress looks lovely..so can I. All the best.
I was always told in fashion school : wrinkles point at where the 'problem' is. The horizontal torso wrinkles in the bodice front seem to indicate need for ease, (vertical), for 1/4 of an inch from the waist to 0'' in the neckline. Doing so would rotate the side seam a bit so correction there would be needed.
This was the perfectionist in me speaking, because all in all your version of the dress after was stunning !
If you like fitting issues when draping, I highly recommend 'Fitting and Pattern alteration' by Liechty, Rasband and Pottberg-Sterineckert. Happy sewing !
Thank you for these tips! I'm aiming for 70% "perfect" these days XD
thank you so much for going step by and step (with reasoning) without dumbing it all down !!! about to go fix my slopers
It's almost like you're predicting my sewing video needs and posting them right when I need them! Thank youuu!
Perfect!! Hope this is helpful xx
Helpful as always! 💗
Excellent tutorial!
😞 dear perfection, i swear that the fourth time is the charm
😆😆😆
There's also no perfect fit, because you. need. to. move!! I liked watching the fitting changes, was really interesting to see what other people would need!
Yes!!!! And honestly, there's always ease added for a garment. I read soooo many articles on achieving a "smooth" sloper with NO puckerings etc which seems like something that can only be achieved through real magic lol..
@@gwenheng I think we could see less puckering/wrinkles in a more stable fabric (ie thicker material) but, and I'm sure you understand, I use what I have! lol
This was so interesting. Your videos are such great quality! Also, I have the same vintage tracing wheel 😊
Aww your comment is so sweet, Sachi! Oooo that tracing wheel is SO GOOD! I love the weight of it x
❤nice