This is great buddy! Thank you very much for the info! This just happened to me. I feel alot more confident doing this now, many many thanks brother 🙏 2017 GT 44k miles Broke in the same place and i baby this thing around, definitely not abuse
This job really sucked,getting it out was easier then going back in. Welded both pedals, had to move the booster as far forward as it can, you have to push up and angle it just right to get it back on the studs. I was able to go this without disconnecting the fluid lines on the slave cylinder, just unbolted it from the assembly, it was very difficult lining it back up and kinda fights you, but it's done, it sucked. Thanks again for the video, this definitely helped 😂
@@landogriffin7250 I left the slave cylinder attached to the fluid line, there are 2 torx bolts that hold it to the assembly, the whole job really sucked to do, I ordered a brand new assembly from eBay and welded both pedals myself so this problem never happens again, good luck and have patience!
Yes it'll go to the floor and you'll have to lift it by hand. If you have a vacuum pump you'll have to pump it about 10 times then relieve the air and usually after the first or second time it doesn't stick to the floor.
Welp gunna have to save this reason I clicked it was I thought it would have same issues I’m running into with squeaking pedal I’m trying to find out how to fix that
Only big issues are you really have to tug on the whole assembly to get it to get over the threaded bolts left in it. Also, the wiring harness has those little christmas tree things all around the trim of the pedal assembly themselves. They're pretty tight in there and limited space, as you could imagine. Getting the bolts was the easy part for sure . It's honestly not that bad. Took maybe 15-20 minutes to get out. It's tight, not fun, but doable! If yours is not budging I'm wondering if you missed a bolt/nut somewhere or possibly the harness is keeping it in place. Try getting a prybar and try lifting it if you can. Don't hercules it, just see if you can find where it's still stuck. Hope this helps buddy!
Used a stick welder where the factory welds were. Don't see why you couldn't use any other welder. If you dont want to take put the pedal assemble and can get under the dash then you could tig weld it.... no splashing and worrying about your carpet catching on fire.
That's a good question. I had that on my old mustang(2012 gt) and I remember talking with the guys at Barton about that at mustang week years ago. I believe part of the issue is the body mount for the shifter. It doesn't move with the transmission when under load. When I put the Barton hybrid 3 shifter in I don't recall having that issue anymore. I'd suggest looking into the Barton Hybrid 3 or MGW race spec shifter. Both are transmission mounted and the Barton has the option to be body mounted, but I wouldn't do that. Not saying this is guaranteed to fix your issue, just telling you my experience. Hope this helps.
@landogriffin7250 I did not take the seat out. Just moved the seat all the way back and crushed my spin and ribs for about 30 minutes getting all the bolts. It's not fun!
@@runsgoodbutsmokes Haha, I will feel the pain soon my friend, lol... Also my car starts up when it feels like it, so I dont know if its because of this problem.. Im assuming it is... its not hitting the switch since its sideways I guess... we will see .. lol
@landogriffin7250 the clutch switch probably isn't getting pressed since the pedal isn't lined up right. It's just a little button. Needs to be pressed to start. Good luck, you can do it!
@@sjohnson800I got it done, its working perfect.. this will be long... have patience.. here goes...lmao Its not that bad as long as that driver's seat is out and you have like a thick towel on the floor. To remove drivers seat: (4 bolts - 50 Torx Bit w/socket attached on a 3/8 inch ratchet and a medium extension if you want). Open the hood, remove the two lines that come out of the firewall (one connects to reservoir and the other connects to probably the Master ).. one is a black plastic line and the other is a metal line with a black bracket and a metal clip holding it in which is right under it... the black plastic line comes out first just by pulling hard on it, (disconnect both lines from the firewall side)... for the metal line; Use the long needle nose pliers to push down on that metal clip from both sides till it pops down.. it should hang on and not come off, but if it does, get a magnet... its hard to see... but, once u push it down the metal line should come off easy.. Now, back in the car, remove the circular headlight switch panel on the left then disconnect it, just pulls off, but be gentle, ( reconnect it without the small panel so that the car stops beeping).... remove the panel under that.. same thing... (Most important part) -- > remove the sunglasses compartment (squeeze the top of the cup that comes out when you push it, at the two sides hard, and pull out).. then remove whole thing, the panel itself that holds it, the back part (3 small bolts behind the panels on the left, everything else clips off just pull on it)... there should be a purple rubber cover behind that panel and a long plastic tube (its visible from under where the pedals are). After you do that... lie down and get under there and disconnect the 2 or 3 sensors.. the blue one to the brakes ( Twist off ).. the clutch switch sensor to start the car, and maybe one more somwhere up there.. just look around.. then remove all the plastic christmas trees attatched to the assembly and inside of that area with them long needle nose pliers.... then... remove the Brake pedal Pin with (blue plastic around it). I did it with a flat head and the needle nose to compress the end. After that, remove the 4 nuts off the brakes side, and the 4 bolts from the clutch side... two of the bolts for the clutch side are at the top str8 up... and the other 2 are str8 ahead to the left looking forward in the car (Do this part by feel, wont be able to see it good).. Should just be a total of 8 all together.. Now... after you do all that... get ratcheting straps, small ones (Harbor Freight)... open the hood... and tie your brake master cylinder reservoir to the inner fender frame holes of the car.. ratchet it til it pulls the Master Cylinder Res forward and gets tight... not crazy tight, but tight tight.. it will move foward a couple of inches with the big brake booster pump... go back in the car and pull the assembly off... only thing that should make it a bit difficult from here is that shaft fork that holds the brake pedal where the blue pin comes out... make sure not to mess that up.. Should come out nicely at an angle if you took that sunglasses compartment panel part off... it should be way easier to install... Finally... Go get the Pedals welded!!!!!! Replace all the little stopper pads that hit the clutch and brake switches, should be like 4. (2 for clutch pedal, 2 for brake pedal) They're white (Yellowish really, the old ones disintergrated on mine). I bought new ones off Amazon, Ford doesnt have them. Here's the part # - 90541-06036, Toyota also has them. These are black. Replace all of them unless you want your brake lights to stay on over night. The blue brake sensor that you twisted off has one too. lol... Also, replace that blue plastic pin for the brakes with a new one from the ford dealer.. cost me 5 bucks.. Go there with your car's Vin number or call and ask if they have it. After you succesfully do this and everything is back on and the two lines are back on under the hood, pump your clutch pedal by hand till it gets pressure and pump like 30 times, wait an hour, come back and pump 30 more times, wait another hour, and pump 30 more for the last time. It should be good after this, it self bleeds no need for tools.. and make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir.. I didnt have to fill mines back up because I didnt have much of a leak when i pulled it off. Its been about 3 days now and everything riding smooth as a MF. Good luck my brother. Let me know how it went.
@@runsgoodbutsmokes it was the blue piece of shit plastic holding the brake rod … to anyone reading this GOODLUCK I just took mine out and let’s just say ford stop making everything plastic….
@terrancedavidson7988 it's going to be pretty tight. Double check you got all the bolts/nuts out. The harness goes around the big plastic piece. They're a bit tough to get off.
@@runsgoodbutsmokes Okay and double checking making sure I didn’t miss any It’s 4 bolts and 4 nuts right? The 4 nuts behind the brake pedal, the two two bolts at the top and 2 on the side of the clutch.
Good video brother! You made this look easy af lol
I literally have the same problem today, and also gonna weld it 😂
This is great buddy! Thank you very much for the info! This just happened to me. I feel alot more confident doing this now, many many thanks brother 🙏
2017 GT 44k miles
Broke in the same place and i baby this thing around, definitely not abuse
I like hearing that! Glad this helped!
This job really sucked,getting it out was easier then going back in. Welded both pedals, had to move the booster as far forward as it can, you have to push up and angle it just right to get it back on the studs. I was able to go this without disconnecting the fluid lines on the slave cylinder, just unbolted it from the assembly, it was very difficult lining it back up and kinda fights you, but it's done, it sucked. Thanks again for the video, this definitely helped 😂
@@lucianodouville9544 yeah not an easy job, but glad the video helped!
@@lucianodouville9544I’m doing this this week, you didn’t disconnect either of the lines?
@@landogriffin7250 I left the slave cylinder attached to the fluid line, there are 2 torx bolts that hold it to the assembly, the whole job really sucked to do, I ordered a brand new assembly from eBay and welded both pedals myself so this problem never happens again, good luck and have patience!
When u first started bleeding. Did the pedal sink and stay to floor?
Yes it'll go to the floor and you'll have to lift it by hand. If you have a vacuum pump you'll have to pump it about 10 times then relieve the air and usually after the first or second time it doesn't stick to the floor.
Same happened to mine and it only has 65000 miles. Did you weld all around it or a weld on each side?
@murlo1978 if I remember right we welded mostly around it as much as we could on both sides of it.
@@runsgoodbutsmokes thank you so much ☺️
Welp gunna have to save this reason I clicked it was I thought it would have same issues I’m running into with squeaking pedal I’m trying to find out how to fix that
Did you ever had any issues actually taking it out? All the bolts are unbolted and everything is disconnected from it and it will not buge at all.
Only big issues are you really have to tug on the whole assembly to get it to get over the threaded bolts left in it. Also, the wiring harness has those little christmas tree things all around the trim of the pedal assembly themselves. They're pretty tight in there and limited space, as you could imagine. Getting the bolts was the easy part for sure . It's honestly not that bad. Took maybe 15-20 minutes to get out. It's tight, not fun, but doable! If yours is not budging I'm wondering if you missed a bolt/nut somewhere or possibly the harness is keeping it in place. Try getting a prybar and try lifting it if you can. Don't hercules it, just see if you can find where it's still stuck. Hope this helps buddy!
what did you use to weld it ? happened to mine and i really would rather weld it myself then pay someone or buy a new one
Used a stick welder where the factory welds were. Don't see why you couldn't use any other welder. If you dont want to take put the pedal assemble and can get under the dash then you could tig weld it.... no splashing and worrying about your carpet catching on fire.
would this cause stress on clutch master by the pedal? im having high rpm lockout
That's a good question. I had that on my old mustang(2012 gt) and I remember talking with the guys at Barton about that at mustang week years ago. I believe part of the issue is the body mount for the shifter. It doesn't move with the transmission when under load. When I put the Barton hybrid 3 shifter in I don't recall having that issue anymore. I'd suggest looking into the Barton Hybrid 3 or MGW race spec shifter. Both are transmission mounted and the Barton has the option to be body mounted, but I wouldn't do that. Not saying this is guaranteed to fix your issue, just telling you my experience. Hope this helps.
Ty man fr💯
I guess it’s my turn now 😂, did you take the seat out? I will be pulling the assembly out tomorrow..
@landogriffin7250 I did not take the seat out. Just moved the seat all the way back and crushed my spin and ribs for about 30 minutes getting all the bolts. It's not fun!
@@runsgoodbutsmokes Haha, I will feel the pain soon my friend, lol... Also my car starts up when it feels like it, so I dont know if its because of this problem.. Im assuming it is... its not hitting the switch since its sideways I guess... we will see .. lol
@landogriffin7250 the clutch switch probably isn't getting pressed since the pedal isn't lined up right. It's just a little button. Needs to be pressed to start. Good luck, you can do it!
I'm about to how did it work out
@@sjohnson800I got it done, its working perfect.. this will be long... have patience.. here goes...lmao
Its not that bad as long as that driver's seat is out and you have like a thick towel on the floor. To remove drivers seat: (4 bolts - 50 Torx Bit w/socket attached on a 3/8 inch ratchet and a medium extension if you want).
Open the hood, remove the two lines that come out of the firewall (one connects to reservoir and the other connects to probably the Master ).. one is a black plastic line and the other is a metal line with a black bracket and a metal clip holding it in which is right under it... the black plastic line comes out first just by pulling hard on it, (disconnect both lines from the firewall side)... for the metal line; Use the long needle nose pliers to push down on that metal clip from both sides till it pops down.. it should hang on and not come off, but if it does, get a magnet... its hard to see... but, once u push it down the metal line should come off easy..
Now, back in the car, remove the circular headlight switch panel on the left then disconnect it, just pulls off, but be gentle, ( reconnect it without the small panel so that the car stops beeping).... remove the panel under that.. same thing... (Most important part) -- > remove the sunglasses compartment (squeeze the top of the cup that comes out when you push it, at the two sides hard, and pull out).. then remove whole thing, the panel itself that holds it, the back part (3 small bolts behind the panels on the left, everything else clips off just pull on it)... there should be a purple rubber cover behind that panel and a long plastic tube (its visible from under where the pedals are).
After you do that... lie down and get under there and disconnect the 2 or 3 sensors.. the blue one to the brakes ( Twist off ).. the clutch switch sensor to start the car, and maybe one more somwhere up there.. just look around.. then remove all the plastic christmas trees attatched to the assembly and inside of that area with them long needle nose pliers.... then... remove the Brake pedal Pin with (blue plastic around it). I did it with a flat head and the needle nose to compress the end. After that, remove the 4 nuts off the brakes side, and the 4 bolts from the clutch side... two of the bolts for the clutch side are at the top str8 up... and the other 2 are str8 ahead to the left looking forward in the car (Do this part by feel, wont be able to see it good).. Should just be a total of 8 all together..
Now... after you do all that... get ratcheting straps, small ones (Harbor Freight)... open the hood... and tie your brake master cylinder reservoir to the inner fender frame holes of the car.. ratchet it til it pulls the Master Cylinder Res forward and gets tight... not crazy tight, but tight tight.. it will move foward a couple of inches with the big brake booster pump... go back in the car and pull the assembly off... only thing that should make it a bit difficult from here is that shaft fork that holds the brake pedal where the blue pin comes out... make sure not to mess that up.. Should come out nicely at an angle if you took that sunglasses compartment panel part off... it should be way easier to install... Finally... Go get the Pedals welded!!!!!!
Replace all the little stopper pads that hit the clutch and brake switches, should be like 4. (2 for clutch pedal, 2 for brake pedal) They're white (Yellowish really, the old ones disintergrated on mine). I bought new ones off Amazon, Ford doesnt have them. Here's the part # - 90541-06036, Toyota also has them. These are black. Replace all of them unless you want your brake lights to stay on over night. The blue brake sensor that you twisted off has one too. lol... Also, replace that blue plastic pin for the brakes with a new one from the ford dealer.. cost me 5 bucks.. Go there with your car's Vin number or call and ask if they have it.
After you succesfully do this and everything is back on and the two lines are back on under the hood, pump your clutch pedal by hand till it gets pressure and pump like 30 times, wait an hour, come back and pump 30 more times, wait another hour, and pump 30 more for the last time. It should be good after this, it self bleeds no need for tools.. and make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir.. I didnt have to fill mines back up because I didnt have much of a leak when i pulled it off.
Its been about 3 days now and everything riding smooth as a MF. Good luck my brother. Let me know how it went.
Is the metal aluminum or steel ?
Same happens to mine! Just got the part in, bouta fix it
Just happened to me and I was like wtf my clutch not going down in middle of the road
Thank you
I got every bolt off but i can see its off but it’s stuck on the break pedal any help ?
Possibly the wires on the little tree clips going around it.
@@runsgoodbutsmokes it was the blue piece of shit plastic holding the brake rod … to anyone reading this GOODLUCK I just took mine out and let’s just say ford stop making everything plastic….
I removed all 4 bolts and nuts, blue pin, and master cylinder but it’s not bulging or coming out
@terrancedavidson7988 it's going to be pretty tight. Double check you got all the bolts/nuts out. The harness goes around the big plastic piece. They're a bit tough to get off.
@@runsgoodbutsmokes Okay and double checking making sure I didn’t miss any It’s 4 bolts and 4 nuts right? The 4 nuts behind the brake pedal, the two two bolts at the top and 2 on the side of the clutch.
@@runsgoodbutsmokesDo I need to remove and brake booster bolts or nuts
@terrancedavidson7988 yes. Should only be 2 under the hood if I remember right.
@@runsgoodbutsmokesOkay brother I appreciate it and check those
Mine is a 2014 just hit 125k and having this issue lol
@@SuperMonster62 hopefully an easy fix for you!