Electrical Work Ep.97
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- Опубліковано 25 гру 2020
- There will soon be power in the house! Ken Jordan here: • The Friend Who Revolut...
Thank you Cascade Electric, you guys never disappoint!
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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.
In the UK it is customary for other electricians to point out how badly the work was carried out by another contractor
I think that is universal. Especially when you see a guy running conduit.
It is also true for anyone with a computer and more than 20 minutes of weekend experience to point out how badly work has been carried out. Ha!
Bundy 10
@@mikeyfoofoo LOL..don't forget having access to internet makes them an expert!
@@xoxo2008oxox True
Guy was a logger, then a home builder, then a blacksmith, then a 1 million sub UA-cam guy! Wow a powerhouse! Always impressed Sir!
you forgot concrete mason
@@Edition89 ... and The Guardian of All Knowledge.
@@Edition89 Absolutely, the guys a beast. Guys like this are an American treasure, not many around.
I am not surprised, he’s Also half swedish , so I can guess what part of him does the logging , blacksmithing and homebuilding parts and wich does the youtubing 😉
and now he’s a general contractor
THATS THE CODE!!
- Larry Haun
Life goes on.
Meh
You caught that too eh? I wonder if Scott ever met Larry. Imagine the amount of combined knowledge in one small area!!
Not here meter and URD service cable can’t be inside the wall and also must have a outside service disconnect
@@sciatl2505 It was a goof on an old video by the Godfather of Framing/Building, Larry Haun...
Around 8:00 it looks like your electrician has run a lot of holes through those engineered joists. Worth mentioning for the UA-cam audience that engineered joists have limits on the number and size of holes you can put in them for installs like this.
Excellent time to pull communication, computer, and entertainment wires too. Working for Ma Bell for decades, I encountered many brand new beautifully crafted homes and I had to drill a hole and have exposed surface mount wiring. It was a shame they didn't plan better.
I second this. I hope EC decides to install cat6 cabling in the home as well. Nothing is worse than a new house that lacks hardwired LAN. Wifi is NOT an adequate replacement for ethernet. Wifi is ONLY for portable devices that do not have a defined home location. Every single device that can take ethernet WILL be better using ethernet over wifi, especially since every additional device on wifi connection degrades overall performance for all connected devices. Every bedroom and the living room should have at least 1 ethernet cable. Living room should maybe have at least two outlets, with all these ethernet cables ran to a central location in the home where the ISP connection, modem and wifi router will live for the best wifi coverage of the home.
Also if ethernet is ran, try not to run it alongside electrical if at all possible.
Al's don't skimp on the cable, use at least cat 6A at this time anything less really is not worth it.
Make sure you have AP install locations in the ceiling of each floor too, as many as you can, it is much harder to add it in later than it is to build it in to begin with. If you want to really have it well, then run 1 inch conduit to each location with a draw string, so that newer cables can be run when the changes in technology require it. If that is not possible, remember coax for cable/tv/radio, cat6A for phone and data, so 2x runs to each point, and preferably run some form of fibre for future use at greater than 10G speeds (after 10G copper just gives up, we may get 40G but even that seems unlikely)
Unfortunately I think he’s to old to think about or know this. It’s gonna be the next owners issue. If they had a utility closet they could make that the central panel for everything and make it easy.
@@scythelord I was lucky that when my father build our home he installed ethernet cables to be used as phone lines. I was able to remove the phone line connectors and put on ethernet. Unfortunately since it was planned to be phone most of the lines are cat3 so it’s about unless and WiFi is faster. Thankfully one of the rooms that got the cat5 was mine so I have perfect internet speed being the furthest room for the router.
Trouble with a spec house is guessing where the buyer will want phones computers, TVs, etc. Remodeled a den for a customer once where they told me a flat screen TV would be going over the fire place. We put blocking for the mounting hardware and had the electrician run both the coax and the power. The next time I had to work there the TV was in the corner and the was a big painting over the fireplace. A few years later the house was stuck by lightning which caused a fire that led to almost all of my work in that room getting redone by another contractor.
It's a Christmas miracle!!!! Essential Craftsman wore a respirator when he was supposed to!!!! I can't believe it!!!!!
hahah that was my first thought too!!!!
Peer pressure is an awful burden.
Breathing through my nose is how I filter dangerous particles
@@dk3062 “OSHA-approved nosehair respirator” ;)
Rise of the nanny state
What do you call 12 electricians on a scaffold?
A whine rack🙂🎅❤
And by the amount of whiny comments I’m seeing, that’s not too far off. “You shoulda this...” “Why didn’t you that...” 🙄
What's one tool no electrician knows how to use?
A broom.
Ha Ha! A good one.
We sparks ARE superior, get used to it.
@@carpespasm Ayee zing!
For real though we end up sweeping not only our shit, but the plumber's, HVAC, fire suppression, and sometimes framer mess too, just cause we're the last ones in. Not always, but it's very common for other trades to not sweep cause they know we're coming in behind them. At least where I'm doing work.
It is also helpful to the electrician to have a builder who is involved with the process. Just one example to make the meter, panel, equipment layout, etc look good and incorporate with the construction. As an electrician I appreciate that. Thanks
I would imagine there is a lot of "what the @#$&+*" between the carpenter, plumber and electrician.
Electrician should have been there to set the meter box before siding, I’ve fixed at least two dozen leaking rotten garage side walls that were never flashed correctly. It’s a pain in the ass to have the power company come out and explain why I have to rip the wall apart with the meter and panel in it.
@@Odrunkmonkey that was my thought exactly. The way that one was installed is a direct violation of the BC Building Code and does not maintain the integrity of the vapour barrier (a requirement in the Canadian Electrical Code) nor the (required here) Rain Screen system. One of the (many) differences between the NEC & the CEC and now that I’m happily retired... not my problem!
@@markchidester6239 The carpenters and electricians usually don't get along
@@Odrunkmonkey Unfortunately fron what I've seen that usually doesn't happen. I've replaced many outdoor electrical installations and for some reason most of my fellow electricians thinks 2 or 4 screws through the siding makes an outdoor box complete without thinking about water. Then when it leaks they say "well I'm not a waterproofer I'm an electrician"
We had an electrician get launched out of second story window when his drill motor bound up and rotated him up and away. We were building some apartments and the land sloped up at the back so he ended up unhurt flat on his back on the side of the hill. We all heard a yelp and walked to the back and there he was. After about a few seconds, the foreman yells out,"Whattya doing? Taking nap? Get back to work."
Those things break your wrist in a heartbeat.
Even a 18V cordless drill with an auger bit could snap your wrist. I smacked my face with the drill when it got caught.
The superhawg he is using has a clutch that will slip before it throws you around. One reason I bought mine.
@@darrenwoloshyn Be careful. There is a certain way to brace yourself with the drill that usually a responsible mentor will show you well before you ever get hit with the drill. I've operated core drills and rotary hammer drills that can easily flip a grown man around but with leverage in a way that I never have gotten hurt.
Always interesting to see how things are done elsewhere.
As an electrical apprentice from Illinois, it's so weird not seeing conduit run everywhere
no pipes,only wire
Based on the video, it is surprising that professional electricians just nailed cables to wood everywhere and did not use any plastic tubing; seems pretty strange. In my country, every electronic work, no matter whether it is a summer cottage or a new office complex, they use those plastic pipes for cable installations and every single line installed. It is truly neater, more secure and easier (+cheaper!) to alter or update in the future, too. This is only my opinion. I guess the standards are different in the US than here in Finland, Europe.
@@eriknovak5452 ikr, I’m not even an electrician and I know everything in illinois needs to be protected in hard conduit or armored cable
@@pistool1 In the US it varies by region a little. In most areas residential houses are run just like in this video, but for some cities they require everything must run in some sort of conduit pipe, and in the vast majority of commercial work wiring must be metal clad or in a conduit. I think the general reasoning is that once the walls are closed up it's unlikely the wires will be hit by anything that wouldn't have damaged them anyway, but in commercial spaces things are reworked so often it's more important to look out for future workmen.
"That's the code!" - Larry Haun, Essential Craftsman, and Phil 👍🏻👍🏻
I can hear Larry say it in my head 🤣
Was just going to say something like that
Does not your code require an external service disconnect?
@@bobniles1928 the external disconnect is pulling the meter itself which is the big glass dome in the exterior meter box. It's only held closed by a latch and tamper tag. The electric company or EMS/fire can easily and quickly disconnect the power if need be
@@tattered666 Are you trying to be a smarta$$? 2020 NEC requires an outside disconnect for 1&2 family dwellings. Pulling the meter is not a service disconnect.
Watching the electrician twist, cut to length and then seat those grounds into the box all with a couple quick movements of the crimpers he was using was amazing.....you can tell it's muscle memory developed from thousands of times of being done
I really enjoy watching professionals work. There is no wasted motion. And that applies to every trade. They quickly figure out the fastest path to the correct result, then with repetition do it without needing to think about it.
From a retired Electrical Inspector; neatness always received extra points. It showed that the installer cared about the work and took extra effort to see it done right.
Thanks, James. From a 35yr contractor, I appreciate the bs ya had to deal with. ( I may be 'retiring' into inspections. Not sure I wanna babysit so many children, but my body says, 'time!', lol)
Yes, he does very neat work in the panel install, im sure he always does. The fact this is in a house that has close to a million subscribers also made him make sure he was extra neat too i would imagine! LOL
Pride in your work is no matter the value of the project or who will see it.
@@BubbasDad right. But don't needlessly spend money on things you cant charge for.
When you buy a Ford, Chevy, or dodge, do you expect to get get a lexus?
I've been waiting to see this electrical video. My whole family on both sides are sparkies, both grandfathers, my dad, my older brother, several uncles, various cousins, etc, and my dad was an electrician and then he became an electrical inspector of the province for 30 years.
I grew up doing this work.
Yep, I was waiting to see the panel, you can tell a LOT about your electrician by how he makes his panel, this one looks great!
Cheers from Tokyo, and Merry Christmas!
Stu
something special about working a trade you grew up in. no substitute for it. you're always a little ahead of your peers
How somebody does a panel does not make them a good electrician
Wonderful to know people in Tokyo are watching Dixonville, Oregon, EC. Amazing.
On top of how the panel looks, also the detail made during the rough in. Everything will be hidden, but great sparkies will usually still keep things neat and proper. That work tends to be carried over to the finish.
This guy's rough looked great!
@@gvanderleun Not Really, A 1st year should be able to tie grounds up good
Here in New Jersey, the electrical code includes two items which are often overlooked elsewhere:
1. All electrical boxes must be crooked and loose. The front edge must be located behind the back surface of the drywall.
2. Holes in the drywall for electrical boxes must be large enough so that the tabs on the switches and outlets are not blocked.
Hahaha!
Same code writers here in NE ohio!
Don't forget:
3. All wires in a box must be cut to NO more than 2 inches long and grounds twisted, clipped, and jammed in the back. Nobody should be able to rewire a box without cursing.
4. Receptacles, especially GFCI and decora, should be tilted and roll to the right. The face must never sit flush on all 4 corners.
5. If backstab connections are available, they must be used. Never spend the time to hook and screw your connections if it can be avoided.
HAHAHAHAHAHA - Good one! The NJ electricians must have learned their trade in New Mexico!
Hahahaha... so funny and true...
@@madscientist5969 Follow the money. Time is money. Electrical contractors who do developments follow 3 rules, 1) bare minimum to code, 2) use "builders grade - cheapest). 3) work as fast as possible ( use stab connectors in back of outlets not screws). Then they put in a bid which holds through building of entire development despite price increases.
Last thing is State code but you have to follow township code. Each inspector has his own pet peeve. I once wired a three way sw. ( which can be wire three different ways by code ) and the inspector wanted it wired his way even though I used the code inspectors training book to do it. LOL.
As an electrician, and a fan of the channel, ive been waiting for a video like this! Cool watch 👍
Ditto!! Got pretty excited this morning when I saw it in my feed!
Yeah, look at the bunch of us here. I expect a big percentage of the people watching this channel have spend many years, decades in a lot of cases, on the jobsite. And here we all are, watching guys working on the jobsite.
Also as a fellow “sparky”, it’s interesting to see others work. Though the NEC does allow #14 wire, it is rarely used in Oklahoma. I did expect to see this be a smart home with current upgrades. I’m not knocking the install, just curious if more is to come.
Keep up the good work!!
@@dustindemoe2643 hate being called "sparky" lol
@@dustindemoe2643 Other than lights the last houses I did were almost all done in 12 trying to future wire
When I was a kid, in the back of the comic books, there was an ad for a gag called the ‘Joy-Buzzer’. By about the age of 9, I knew how much I hated getting shocked, so this looked like a hilariously funny gag to play on friends. From the cartoon picture in the ad, it appeared to pack quite a wallop. What the ad failed to reveal, was that the perpetrator received about the same ‘shock’ as the victim. After an agonizing 6-8 weeks waiting for delivery, it finally came. I secretly palmed the toy (per the instructions), held my hand out to my brother for heart-felt, honest handshake and WHAMO! we were both ‘shocked’. I hated that toy! I think I might have used it twice before trading it away for something less ‘painful’. I think from that point, I knew working with electricity was not in the cards for me. I love all the things it can do for us, but I’ll leave it up to someone else to work on the installation part.
Was it actually an electrical device? The buzzers toys I've seen were just a wind up device that vibrated, fooling the victim into thinking he's been shocked.
That was a thoroughly enjoyable tale, my friend. But you got what was coming to you, you cruel child eheheh. I hate electricity. I can do all sorts of stuff, but when it comes to electrical, only fixing power outlets is about enough.
@@andrewalexander9492 Right, it was just that wind-up, spring-loaded kind, just designed to surprise your victim unexpectedly. I just can’t stand that feeling, let alone a REAL electric shock. I did have a friend that had a gag ball point pen that would give a real electric shock when you handed it to someone, but the end ‘you’ hold was insulated.
I did notice that some people could grab the pen with minimal discomfort, but others (like me) instantly pulled away. I guess I’m just a woose when it comes to electricity 🤷♂️
I've known 3 people who didn't mind leaning up against an electric fence for a while. Me? One zap reboots my brain and I have to figure out where I am and what I'm doing; I hate it.
My cousin woke up on his back in a muddy hole, looking up at a woman holding a shovel. Took him a few seconds to realize she wasn't burying him, just wondering if he was ok. They were digging a drainage trench in the rain, and he'd bumped his forehead against the hot wire with the fencer on its highest setting. Same cousin became a first responder and was trained what to do if he had to work near a down powerline, and then had to use that training.
Electricity builds or powers first-world tech one way or another, and I'm grateful for it, but I'm happy to let others deal with it.
I just recently installed a sub-panel in my house and acquainted myself with electrical work. It was a source of pride to me to be asked by the inspector if I was an electrician. The rest of my house here in Texas was wired by Morlocks, with wires scattered all over the attic. Your electricians are Rhodes Scholars by contrast.
Hey Jack. When you wire the sub-panel, what kinds of wires go from the main panel to the sub-panel?
Thats the difference between lowest bidder and getting a quality electrical contractor for a bit more in price. Here in Canada almost all residential is done by lowest bidder contractors and its scary/disgusting, especially in the countryside of BC, there's fewer inspectors so everyone does cowboy stuff.
How did you learn this? Was it hard to learn? I want to try thanks
I’d go one step further and ask that the HVAC go before the electrician.
Yeah I'm an electrician and the Plumbers always come first, HVAC second, Electricians third. Can't wrap my head around how the HVAC guy is going to run things around wires :D
@@evanmorgan1208 I'm sure on this job ALL of that has been figured out already. There aren't many GC's like the Essential Craftsman.
The duct work went in the crawl space after they rolled the joists and b4 they put down the sub floor. The HVAC guys were thrilled to stand in a crawlspace and install duct at waist height.
Another electrician here
Came to say the same thing.
I'm an electrician too, and we prefer being there last to but a lot of times in our area that doesn't happen as they get in a hurry or the other trades don't show up when they are supposed to. But we definitely think of there need and stay out of there way , (most times)
Good looking work Cascade Electricians ! Keep it up.
Jeff and his crew are the best. I have used them for 25 years I think. Never a disappointment. Never a billing issue.
@@essentialcraftsman You made a mistake and told the truth there at the end.
GC’s is not focused on the end-users experience, but is worried endlessly about their precious schedule, their pocketbook and making it to the end of that warrantee.
We know at least one trade that you don’t respect after your ❤️on this video. I hope it was your son and not you, but just in case it wasn’t I’d rather be around somebody who swears like a sailor than one who thinks so precious little of his own fellow man. I’m glad you like your guy...
I bet dimes to donuts there’s not a structured wire panel, the coax is RG6 (not quad-shield) with NO room for its bend radius in the box selected, and just like 25 years ago at the beginning of their professional relationship there is one piece of CAT5 that is ran like Christmas tree lights throughout the property for telephones (with a for sure stop in the kitchen and the master bedroom).
@@thetruth5210 Huh? I think i just read some kind of accusation of some sort but I read it twice and am still not sure. All the best
@@thetruth5210 who are you? Have you ever seen one of Scott's houses before?
@@bobcougar77 I agree.
Finally an electrical video! I would love to see more of these and maybe here from the electrician as well. It’s always fun to here how other guys do their work.
Been an electrician for over 50 years now, like a couple of others, I do like seeing how other electricians do their work. However, I do question the main service meter enclosure within the wall! It does look nice but!! I know that the main service drop is enclosed in conduit, but is is still inside the house! Should something happen to the meter or service drop to the house, the only protection this has is back at the transformer from the utility! Also, like to see more on how you are going to feed the sub-panel with 200 amps from the 200 amp panel in the garage ???? I still really enjoy watching the Chanel! The detail you have included is just Great!!
I think they fed the 200A subpanel with SER via feed through lugs (never seen this setup 17:10.) I think it's a little confusing at the end, but it appears to me that the house has a 200A service.
Looks like a 200 amp meter base. I too was curious about the recessed meter base. I'm assuming the house is using a pass-thru first point of service panel as mentioned above which isnt how we do it but our way isnt the only way. I'm in Louisiana, and I know different areas have different methods.
We also must have "burn loops" above our device boxes, which is a few inches extra slack wire between the nearest staple and box in case of any minor arc damage, more clean wire can be accessed by just pulling that little bit to you.
I could've watched him wire those boxes all day. So efficient with those crimper/cutters.
Yeah man. It’s mesmerizing watching a pro do that.
I used to use those light cans. Love the new low profile LEDs.
Yes, yes, and yes.
In 2007 I had a faulty fixture batch. Had to replace all 87 cans in a house. From then on I only use "Remodel" cans that pop into drywall with spring clips. Tearing out all those cans--especially in bead board porch ceilings--was a painful lesson I'll never forget!
I'm just amazed at the different types of panels and the way they're installed in different parts of the world, and the ones that aren't used or go against the code in other parts of the world
In my area AEP nor South Central Power ( a cooperative ): will allow the meter to be in the wall like that. I think it is so that it is harder to hide a tap ahead of the meter.
As an electrician, I can say that this man is performing some clean work. There's a lot of hacks out there. But this guy is doing it right.
Yes!! Simon is a top hand! It kind of bothered him when I would insist on cleaning up the mess at the end of the day. He felt like he should do it and I had to be pretty direct to make him pack up his tools and head out without making sure everything was swept and tidy!
except for everything about the meter and service.
residential is the bottom of the barrel in complexity, but it def takes a decent amount of experience to make it go smooth with no hickups. i havent done a house in like 7 yrs now lol, ive done a few dumb things, but if i had to do a whole house, i would be knockin the rust off more than bustin ass. i wouldnt even know how to bid one really anmore lol. which is bad, because ive started my own gig, n need to get back in the market if i dont want to spend thousands to get into the industrial game, which is half the reason i quit my job. for a single guy its hard to meet ppl when ur livin that life. wyo electrical is a lot different than big city electrical, ten fold different really.
A couple of thoughts come to mind watching this video. First, the need for codes and inspections is derided by some. But as an insurance professional who worked on a claim where several people were injured at a house where a deck railing gave way, I sure wish the county where it happened had a permit requirement for attached decks. Otherwise there is no way a deck railing constructed with finishing nails would have been allowed to be placed into service. Second, and unrelated to the first, I was reminded of how attention to detail was tested by Van Halen. They had a contract requirement that there be no green M&Ms in the candy dish in the dressing rooms. Not because green M&Ms were bad, but to see if the local promoter could follow the contract. If there were green M&Ms, the band's people knew to start looking closely for other issues with the set up, like short cuts on wiring and lighting that could cause real problems.
Yeah that was cool story about Van Halen. Here is a good story about the Brown M&M's from the mouth of the person who came up with the contract, David Lee Roth, ua-cam.com/video/YwHO2HnwfnA/v-deo.html
So, were there green M&M's or was it all copacetic and the goose hangs high?
@@jacksak They were brown M&Ms and promoters had decided against reading the contract to the point that physical damage was down to the floor of venues. One such place Massari Arena had their new rubber floor on the court damaged to the tune of 80k when they did not read the part of the how much weight the stage was putting on the floor. Roth had also messed up the backroom when noticed the brown m&m's.
@@mdhofstee Thanks for your reply... interesting...
I'm a current union electrician. No residential work, all commercial/industrial, but I hear guys bitch about code and inspectors all the time. But when I was in Jr. High, my house burned down, almost certainly due to shoddy electrical work. I didn't wake up until almost everything was engulfed, but I had time to hop out of my bedroom window on the 2nd floor, walk to the edge of the carport, and jump down. I don't take it for granted.
Nice to see another professional at work... I love opening a panel to see perfection. Nice job Simon
I met Scott today at this house, im a sheetrock stocker for longs building supply, he's a really great guy and helped us the whole time
What is the address of the house?
It also helps to write it down twice - once a little further down the line. I have seen a lot of wires getting stripped and cut to length when mounting, removing the insulation with the text... :)
i dont like the romex labeling, nope nope nope lol. im not a resi guy though, but im consistant in always labeling just the hot in most cases, specially resi. a little flag with a number , or legit label. a million ways to do it though, my number one rule is eliminate the variables, somethin this old man def does, which i respect, because almost nobody does. rule number 2 is dont fight it lol. far to much time is wasted triyn to make shit work when it takes less time to just replace or whatever, ,, ive seen a lot of ppl try n bend 4 inch grc in a ditch lol, neways, thats not revelent in this convo i guess haha
As an electrician in the UK, I've been looking forward to see the power go in. Fascinating to see how its done over there.
Its similar in some ways, but so different. I would be interested to know how long he took to first fix, he doesn't hang about! Every minute of this entire house build series has been brilliant.
I believe what you call "first fix" we call "rough-in"
Yea some aspects look similar. No CPC sleeving at the CU 😳. Keep up the good work
This stage goes pretty quickly most of the time. There are always changes in a custom home and inevitable call backs as well as trim out - that is where the time gets eaten up.
I was looking forward to this looking through German glasses. Some of the things I have seen made me cringe first, like no insulating sleeve on the ground wire. But thinking about it, the circumstances with the whloe wooden construction and the different electrical systems make it different in some ways, but looking in depth, not that much different at all.
And for example the ground wire. Ours is supposed to have a green and yellow sleeve and you are not allowed to use it for anything else. But practically what difference does it make if it is sleeved or not? It is not like this one can short out anywhere. And if there is a metal housing, you have to attach it anyways. I think for this way of running the wiring, the flat format of the romax even has advantages to our more round cables which get burried in plaster and gypsum usually.
And with the different voltages and phases of course there will be way different amp ratings.
For example the breaker panels. they have just those two rails and mount breakers to the left and the right and have them each serve 120 V. Or you have a double width one that then can provide 240 V. In some sense easier than our DIN rail mounted breakers etc. But it simply would not work with three phase that way.
And other than that, it is just different formats that developed over time. The inner workings are except for different ratings exactly the same.
In the end, the physics are the same everywhere.
@@alexku8452 there are three-phase panels for commercial that are the same format. In Canada, they are 208/120V or 600/347V.
Hole Hogs are definitely a knuckle-smashing good time.
Or face, I made the mistake of getting my head between one and the deck above, it was a head smashing good time!
@@horsekid98367 ow......., nearly twisted my wrist off and had the concrete drill slam my shin in the same pass while boring out a 4x4 and it was only a little concrete drill.... hadn't ever messed with one of the big hole hog style drills but i can only imagine the pain it caused.....again oww
ive knocked myself unconscious and off a ladder with a hole hawg, when they kick they sure kick like a mule
@shamp00p no one argued their reputation, and it is a great tool , but for that comment sir, your are a gigantic tool and a douche, nice job trying to massage your ego, ill put a vote in for ya in the "smartest man in the world" contest. douchebag
Roger that the super hogs have a clutch though and it seems to make it harder to get them caught like the original little hole hogs
Being a third generation commercial electrician (with some residential experience), watching this dude rough-in a house, alone, is astonishing! Clean, Neat, Organized! If only Half the other sparkies out there were 50% this good, We wouldn't have as many electrical issues and nightmares you hear and read about! great video again Mr. EC!
Not to pick an argument with you, but I installed HVAC for many years, and we ALWAYS CAME FIRST! It's a lot easier for plumbing and wires to work around our ducts. We are limited in how many ways we can tin the ducts. A few times some electrician thought he would just sneak into a house and finish first. Weellllll, after we had to cut several wire runs because I just could not stretch the wires to get my 6" duct past them, and he explodes at the GC and us, we were always backed up by the inspector.
I thought the same , can't bend a heat pipe like you can a wire .
Lots of comments like this one and I agree but wonder if it's possible for an HVAC route plan to have been worked previously out for the electrician to avoid. Just a thought... (???)
@@jacksak Experienced electricians and plumbers often have a good idea where the ducts are going to go, and keep their wires low or high on the joists as much as possible so that the ducts can go through the middle of the joists. Return air ducts usually aren't a problem at all, as they're just compartmentalised joist and stud spaces that don't care if wires or potable water pipes are going through them.
Sometimes it's the other way around too, if there's only one place in the wall of a washroom to put the electrical box for the switches, but there's already a drain pipe running through there from the washroom on the second story, or those big potlight cans have to go above a fireplace right where a bunch of ducts are already crammed in.
Poop before air.
detroitbob58 It's in the crawlspace. It was put in after the joists and before the subflooring.
From Chicago area, every thing is piped. as a firefighter I like pipe.
Now I live on the east coast, wire all over the place in my house, and houses are 3 times the cost.
Did a plumbing job with my uncle while I was in college. Had to drill some joists. The hole hawg almost spun me off the ladder and into the joists. The torque on those tools is incredible.
Only use high speed on normal drilling. Low speed will break your arm. My favorite drill for decades.
My father was an estimator for almost 40 years in Chicago. I watched him do countless blueprints but the ten floors his company was bidding on for the Sears Tower was especially interesting. Planning something like that is far more intricate than most people would think. The knowledge of regulations is crazy.
I do commercial and industrial estimating. Would love to have a chat with your dad...
Especially in Chicago! Even in their residential houses all the wiring has to go through conduits (unions)!
A well layed out distribution board/panel is a thing of beauty.
Been following for a little while , and I was excited to see you finally talk about my trade in a full video. You nailed it! Awesome watch.
I watched 4 times in a row.
I love your series, insights, narration, everything. I'm a very fortunate guy to have found it
I love the reference to Larry Haun!
Not me. He's a carpenter.
Electricians, people who work in the dark,so you won't have too.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. 🎁🎄🍻🎶
Thank, and Ho, Ho, Ho! Very appreciative
Been loving this series. I am really excited for the drywall and painting videos. I do painting contracting and light drywall work. I love seeing different videos to see how I can do things differently, and have people talk about the process. Keep it up!
At 5:30 the sparky is physically checking the other side of the joust with his hand before drilling thru. Respect. I've seen far too many tradesmen over the years drill thru water lines, ducts, wires and even a gas line.
Imagine the fun here in Chicago, where it all has to be in conduit (even residential)....
I'm sure they would have utilized the crawlspace more.
Really? what is the rational with conduit? I suspect you see a lot of RWA line as well then, or is that frowned upon?
@@davez2989 Union jobs, naturally. It's Chicago!
@@jpm1211 because non union can't run conduit?
@@davez2989 More work, more hours, more money, more members, more dues!
In building my last house I asked the builder not to install any light switches as no lights are ever turned off in my house anyhow.
I tried to get him also to not install a meter, but he wouldn't do that either.
That’s funny. We never have lights turned on. Only light on is the flat screen. It puts out enough light to cover 3 rooms LOL
I learn so much from the information, what is said, but most of all, how it is said. New to the formalities of doing this as a business, a guy in his 50’s, starting over in life, and very thankful for your insights.
I’m an interior contractor in Ohio. I’ve traveled the states doing Sheetrock. I subbed several housing developments here in my area between Dayton/Cincinnati, when the housing industry was booming in the early 2000s.
I now specialize in interior restoration. I turn new construction away. Water, fire, wind, whatever peril damages a structure. There’s a good number of restoration companies around. My guarantee is this.
My customers may suffer sticker shock, but will never have buyers remorse!!
A superintendent that’s worked for me for years says. “No one can do it better!!! We know we’re not the only ones that do this, there’s folks that can do as good! But not better! There’s just no such thing!! You guys at EC could say the same! Keep up the good work! The good work can be sold anywhere in the world!
In my neck of the woods, common courtesy is to let heating guys run their stuff first as it is the biggest, and electricians are last ones as their is the smallest and easiest to work around other trades
Screw the HVAC guys- plumbers have absolute priority, water has to drain and breath correctly
@@tonyskillz yep we always went first as plumbers can NOT make water drain uphill!! Then usually the hvac guys get their ducting all installed so the sparky patrol can run the lightning wires around the ducting and plumbing.
I'm living in Sweden, and we have really different standards and methods for cabling here.
This was very interesting to see...
Code varies widely even throughout the US. Some areas require metal conduit instead of the type of wiring installed in the video.
@@ripstick2217
In the netherlands all conduits are made out of pvc. Because most houses are made of brick, concrete, etc, they are all concealed (and kinda save from fire) within the wall. New cabling is easy, just pull in new wiring. Never understood the cabling as shown in this video.
@@ripstick2217 Conduit generally is used in commercial and industrial settings. Romex and Metal Clad (MC) is generally used in residential and light commercial. I don't think you'd see much conduit in residential unless it is a more expensive build as it much more expensive, with the exception of certain applications as required by the installation.
It's all about cost, romex ( as used here) is incredibly cheap and quick to install. Residential new construction electrical is a very competitive market, so keeping cost low is a major factor.
@@BendeVette ''New cabling is easy, just pull in new wiring.'' Have you ever tries to do this in flexible PVC conduits :P I wish you luck. With normal rigid PVC it isn't always that easy.
I am surprised in my area the HVAC goes first because their stuff has only so many places they can run especially if they a re running metal duct, then plumbing is run then electrical because our wire is flexible.
If you think one of those angle drills will screw you up try a triple geared D handle hang where the framer got crazy with the nail gun on the top plate!
One of my bosses was an ex Navy electrician, his panels were something to behold every wire was straight every corner was square and the distance where they connected to the buss bar was the same from one wire to the other beautiful, and it took him 6 hours to do a 20/40 panel with the panel and meter already mounted!
I think the HVAC is already in, although I didn't notice it in the video. A few videos he was giving a talk on the the order of installations which agreed with you.
I love beautiful panel boxes. Nice work.
It’s a shame that the electric meter is having to live on the street side of the house. Where I live they are always on the side or back of the house’s. I guess that’s where the landscaping crew can come and plant a bush to hide it 😂.
This
In the Netherlands (and I think a lot of countries in Europe) these boxes are inside the house, mostly next to the front door, nicely hidden behind a door. What's the reason they are outside?
Regarding the location of the meter, they are generally placed on the exterior of the building to allow easy access to the utility to read it. With smart meters, this is less important but still allows for easy access vs scheduling with the homeowner for access.
@@BendeVette tradition. here in Texas, it is custom to plant a prickly plant in the way.
@@wim0104 lol!
Recommendation: I strongly advise the use of adjustable depth boxes in all locations, but especially for all outlets and switches in the kitchen and bathroom. These rooms most frequently have variable depth wall surfaces when finishes like tile are applied. Instead of having to use a box extender ring, which feels sloppy on new work, or guessing the final finished depth, just use an adjustable depth box.
Doing this for all boxes in an installation adds a very modest upfront cost to the install, but will save both you, your subs and installers, and future contractors and homeowners a lot of minor annoyance (and potentially not insignificant trouble to retrofit).
Client wants thicker drywall? Thicker tile? Decorative paneling over/instead of drywall? Moved a cabinet over an outlet? Accidentally put the box in too deep or too shallow? This is all easily remedied with an adjustable depth box.
Seriously dude, that is overkill. Use those pricey boxes in kitchens and bath, for tiling. Otherwise, nope. There are inserts for future situations. Let the future homeowner pay for that.
Kitchen, bath, and exterior walls.
@@haphazard1342 nope. Explain why you have to charge 1.50 to 2.50 more per outlet? To satisfy yourself??
Never seen anyone do that.
@Thomas Prendergast
When you put it that way, I now approve of the adjustable depth boxes.
But I'd charge more.
Adjustable depth mud rings are another story.
I just tried and like the "ReceptXtenders".
But Arlington Fittings BE-1, etc are mandatory for truck stock.
Glad to see you using PPE while cutting the concrete-fiber siding. Love the channel guys. Looking forward to the final product.
Public note: this is a 200amp service. It has 2 200amp panels, but by size of the incoming pipe, it is just a 200 amp service, not a 400 amp overkill. FYI
@Thomas Prendergast
But I like selling the 400-amp, 80-space NQOB's.
@@MasterHomeowner ok, you made me laugh.
@@thomasprendergast6315
Oh dear, I will try to not slip up again.
I really love how you set that panel into the exterior wall, nice and tidy and as clean as possible. The narration and editing are awesome. The electrician has skills for sure. His lack of safety glasses with all those chips flying was pretty too. To each their own, maybe his company doesn't require such items. Thank you for yet another great video. Keep up the great work. Jim Tree
I also noted the lack of safety glasses.
@@dustindemoe2643 that was to make up for Scott wearing a respirator while cutting the fiber cement siding. Have to keep a certain level of danger or we trades people get bored😉
Have been waiting for the electrical install since the beginning of this series and I have to say it was very anticlimactic....also just because you have 2- 200 amp panels dose not mean you have 400 amp service.
My advice: 1) Leave some extra wire outside of each box just in case one is cut in the box by the drywallers and you need to pull some more in.
2) Save time by not writing on each wire entering a box. Just write on the studs what each switch is for and notch the switch legs accordingly with your pliers. One notch for the switch on the left, two notches for the switch on the right, etc. All other wires are power in - power out and don’t need a label.
I'm an apprentice electrician in Oregon and have been looking forward to this video for some time! Keep up the good work!
How did I know there would be a corded hole hawg here 😂. I still have nightmares from that dark era of electrical work lol
I know you are going to pull communications ( computer ) cables before sheet rock. Pull cables for cameras ect also, you only get one chance to do this correctly.
Agree ..I.built my cottage thinking and reading that wifi cams were the way of the future . They aren't. Too much reliance on signal and batteries
@@stellarluna2637 And very unsecured, cable if you possibly can, you cant install to many network cables. People would call us after their house was built and want network cables installed. If they would of called before drywall, 1500.00 after drywall, 7,000.00 if we even took the job. 1 days work, or 2 weeks works. You only get one chance. cable,cable,cable, all rooms, and where maybe you will mount cameras, very important stuff. And dont forget cable, he should have a communications room (small), where they all terminate, plainly marked. You can hack WiFi with a 80.00 device.
@@charlesmiller5078 live and learn not worried about getting hacked but hate battery life and reliance on wifi service. Will remember next build.
Wow, such a maze of wires, looks clean and professionally done, I liked the stick jig for hanging the boxes too.
Thanks Chuck
I've been in the industry for 8 years now and i have never seen any information as good as yours on the topic of construction. i always make sure to catch your videos as they are produced. thank you for the vast knowledge and ideas from your channel. what a beautiful house you built as well
keep it up EC!
No matter what you think, the garage needs at least 3 dedicated circuits, and an outlet every 4 feet. Preferably a 240V stub as well, just in case someone owns a real tablesaw.
Matthew, you just don't understand how this works, do you?
This is a spec home. Scott is building a house to sell to an unknown buyer. That buyer may never use a 240volt circuit in their lives, if they have gas water heat and dryer.
Why would you add cost, with a huge chance of no return?
Plus... plus, I say, your idea takes a very nice and profitable job away from my brother sparks, adding g those circuits and being paid service rates. Rather than charging Scott resi construction rates.
Heck, he can't charge for what you want to install
@@thomasprendergast6315 I think you are the one who doesn't. Having those extra features is a good selling point. Also, electric vehicles, garage shops and other exterior features might require this power and are fairly common. A smart builder will implement them, and it will pay. If we were to follow your logic properly, we should modify the building codes in such a way that everything barely holds to create extra jobs. Also, I don't think that adding a cable run or two while everything is open is needless expense, it's careful planning.
I know I’m an old electrician , but you can’t beat a Square D QO breaker box and metal outlet and switch boxes
I feel like this is a joke LOL
I’ve had QOB breakers fail to trip with a dead short many many times. I agree with the metal boxes.
I hate cheesy Carlon boxes. I love the smooth corner metal boxes, but you have to add a ground to them. Good plastic boxes exist, and are a reasonable option.
Merry Christmas Scott and Nate. Thanks for the great information you have given us.
Very pleased to see the electrical video, was getting worried it might be skipped. Thanks for making excellent videos on the construction process.
I was patiently awaiting this video, 35 years in the electrical trade. I still enjoy seeing other electricans techniques.
When I renovated my old beat up victorian, I was struck by how many of the difficult electrical decisions were made for me by code. There were obviously still points to think about concerning the location of double and three way switches, overhead light fixtures, etc, but in terms of outlets, I feel like it's difficult to comply with code and not end up in a house that's totally covered in outlets nearly everywhere.
😂😂 literally everywhere. Even right there by your bathroom faucet.
I am from central Kentucky and I went to Roseburg, OR in Google maps and started looking for this site! I found it in less than 2 minutes! When I pressed my finger on the site it came up as Essential Craftsman spec house! So cool to see where you are! Enjoy watching you build this house!
Hi Scott, great video , best wishes to you and family for the new year, let's hope 2021 is a better one for everybody, kind regards Stuart.uk.
Because you've had timber framed construction for so long it's interesting to see that metal staples are standard, to prevent premature collapse of wiring in the event of fire, this is only something very recently introduced in the UK, as when they where buried in masonry and plaster, as they were here traditional, it wasn't an issue.
The code only requires it to be laid flat. The method is not as important. The reason for that is safety of the homeowner. If after filling the stud bays with insulation and you put a nail or screw into the drywall it could nick or go into a wire. By having the wires on the side of a stud laying flat the chance of penetrating a wire is reduced. I have seen metal staples, metal staples with a insulation on it, plastic staples with two nails, you can even use zip ties. As long as the wire is laying flat against a stud and secured before going into a box, every few feet next to a stud it is legit.
It's my understanding that here in the US, the staples are used to keep the wiring in place during construction, so that it doesn't get pinched in drywall or hit by a screw. At least, that's what I've heard 😀
@@horsekid98367 it's fulfilling the same requirement, regardless of how it came about. Maybe if it wasn't done like that there would have been a lot higher numbers of firefighter deaths due to entanglement.
I've discovered with my OCD I would make an excellent electchicken who is always broke because the job would take 10x longer to do for the same price.
Such as I was, when I started 35 years ago. God willin, and the creek don't rise, we all learn as we go along.
My wife will tell ya, I was a mighty poor($) lectramagician. Lol
Dear brother, Thank you for the respect you always show to each discipline. Nearly 20 years of old and new work flew by when respect was given and reutrned. There is no great "welcome" to the job site than that. At 70 I still see the whole house process as fun. Although my professional days there are done I look forward to the new four car garage that's going to need a few devices. Grace to you.....
I'm an electrician and have enjoyed watching your channel for a while! I think you're great!
Pot light cans? Are LED lights not the industry standard in most new homes now? Thin and sleek, energy efficient and last forever. No heat cans needed. No Brainer. House looks great though .
They will put led trim in there surely. Also some people like the trim to be more recessed, and don’t use led trim for that reason
@@gregorysemones7480 we ll see , they look like halogen cans . No need for deep cans with LED
The LED retrofit kits with a standard housing has less glare than a wafer LED. We built a test ceiling to test this.
@@MasterHomeowner most LEDs have an adjustable "glare" level. Or good ones do. Seems like a lot of extra work is all I'm saying .
These are the cans I use. Now and again we do new construction with the flat "canless" LED lights.
It's so strange to see that the wires run through the walls without going inside a main conduit. Here in Brazil, we use flexible hoses to run cables and wires from electric point to electric point and then to the breaker box. It seems more secure and it's also easier to run additional wires if needed, using a probe. But alas, it's definitely much more work and our buildings are almost always brick and mortar (terrible, horrible insulation and shock-resistance). It's very uncommon to see framing and drywall in a typical construction here. We only use it to divide a room, for example.
Same here in RSA
interesting... running conduit is optional in Canada as well, we just use romax or bx cable to rough-in, and most of our houses are wood frame or steel stud framing, it is definitely inferior compare to cor-line or emt pipe, but it is way faster and less expensive, some of my co-workers from Europe told me that their code does not allow cables as a rough-in option, so they have to cor-line, PVC, EMT pipe everything.
When I was doing houses in Europe, everything was run through conduit. Makes upgrading far easier. In the Netherlands, a lot of buildings are aerated concrete blocks (even interior walls). There is no wall cavity, so you wind up using a router to make channels for conduit which are then backfilled with a mortar mix... Wire is pulled when all the conduit is laid. In rural France, you see quite a lot of surface mount conduit as old houses were never designed for electrical and are often either masonry or 'torchis', a type of adobe construction that is harder than cement.
Same in illinois. Everything needs to be protected in hard conduit or armored cable.
@@ckm-mkc actually the light concrete bricks are used less and less in the Netherlands. All drywall or metal stud walls now.
A lot of electricians use pre-wired flexible pvc pipe now. No need to pull wires with a spring anymore.
In industry grey 22mm impact resistant pvc tube is used. Usually they run a ymvk cable through that. They just mount that on the wall or cable rails
As an electrician myself I have been waiting a long time for this video! I like to watch others in my trade work to see how they do things and if I can pick up any other tricks they may have. I love your channel always very positive and informative. If I’m ever in Oregon I’d love to meet you and sit down and have a cup of coffee. You remind me of my dads older cousin. He is a cabinet maker by trade but also dabbles in blacksmithing, auto restoration ,wood working, metal fabrication and many other things. I really enjoy visiting him and working with him in his shop. Keep up the good work!
PS
I do have a comment about the installation. Here In Arkansas where I live if we have a 400A service that will power two separate 200A panels we have to have a separate 400A MDP with two 200A breakers. One for each panel. I noticed y’all fed the 200A sub panel off the 200A main panel. That is strange to me because that 200A main feeder could potentially have 400A on it. Also the busbars in your main panel are only rated for around 200. This is another hazard in my opinion if you add any extra loads it can over load the buses. I could be completely wrong and y’all have thought about that. I was just curious and wondering about what y’all’s thoughts on that were? It’s just something I noticed
It's so beautiful to watch a job well done.
Why would you ever need 400 amps?? You could set up an arc welder in every room! :)
Sometimes it's about how many breakers / circuits you can fit inside the panel and not how many amps are being drawn. That said, your standard god-awful single serve Keurig coffee maker pulls about 13 amps just by itself. If you have the misfortune to have that on a 15-amp breaker then you basically can't use any other appliance on that entire circuit without a chance of popping the breaker. If anything, I think he might be slightly under sizing considering how large the house is.
I really hope he has dedicated circuits for every major kitchen appliance.
I agree. With all gas appliances, 200A would be great plenty, especially since he doesn't really have room on the lot for an outbuilding/shop. Number of circuits in a panel really isn't a factor. there are 42 circuit 200A panels with feed-thru lugs, for a second 200A panel
@Phelebas The NEC doesn't require sufficient capacity, to power a "possible" future EV charge station. Plus 50A at 240V would be the max for a fast EV charger
@@Jack-yl7cc wrong. As long as you know the load per code, you can have a million breakers or just the minimum, by the math.
And, this is a 200amp service, not 400(actually only 320)
Nice Larry Haun reference. I've probably watched him build that house 5-6 times, now.
Me too! Does anyone know where the house is Haun used in the video series?
I love watching skilled workers! These guys are clearly pros!
Man watching this guy work gives me the fizz. It’s a hard job and seeing it done well is just perfect.
400a is definitely planning for the future. The garage could easily charge a Tesla.
It's not a 400 amp. It's a 200 amp service with a sub panel for more breaker space.
@paquitos hammer There was a time when anything over 50 amp was considered overkill for a house. But now a Tesla charger ideally gets 60 amps (at 240 v) to itself, then an AC may need 30 amps, the water heater 30 amps, the oven/range 50 amps, the dryer 15 amps. That's already 185 amps. 200 amp service is the bare minimum I'd put in a new build. If it were my place, I'd spec a 400 amp main panel and service.
@@MarkRose1337 At least a couple of those will be natural gas in this house, so they should be pretty comfortable with 200a. But if you were going electrical for everything, having at least the main drop be 400a wouldn't be overkill.
Sitting here drinking out my EC mug (big smile)
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to put this serious together.
Love your channel. Nice to see an electrical episode. As an electrician in Canada it’s very interesting to see the methods used in your state.
I hope there is more dedicated circuits going to the kitchen than I saw in the vid; perhaps they are in that second interior panel? At the very least I would like to see a dedicated circuit just for the microwave because if the future homeowner buys a 1500-watt microwave then it goes from a nice to have, to a must have.
Yould like see. Hmmm. Just zactly who are you?
Yeah man, modern NFPA-70 kitchen circuits are nuts. You can easily get 5 or 6 circuits just for the kitchen.
I've been out of the electrical game for some years now, but I'm pretty sure if the microwave is a mounted one, a dedicated microwave circuit is required by the NEC.
Then you require at least 2 small appliance circuits, the dishwasher/disposal circuit, lighting circuit, and a 220v for the range. Sometimes the fridge will be on one of the small appliance circuits, or it might be looped in with a circuit with something like a freezer in the garage.
1995 called..
They want their Pot lights back!
😂
I'm about to renovate my kitchen and my florescent tubes are coming out and those pot lights are going in with LED trims. I want the light recessed and you just can't do that well with wafers (plus there's attic insulation above, so the 6" clip in LEDs aren't ideal).
I work for an alarm company.
Most new alarm system can be wireless, but I believe camera should be hardwired. You get better high resolution cameras when they are hardwired.
This is best time to run some Cat6 network cable to each corner of the house bedrooms(2nd flr bedrooms), prewire in low voltage box.
I would leave them interior of the house back of the low voltage box same height as an outlet box. This will be an advantage for who ever is buying the house. I also believe in 2” PVC conduit from the crawl space to attic, this will be helpful in future for any upgrade.
Net engineer, and POE is correct and Cat6A is preferred for future-proofing.
Run power and network to corners of the house. Power for PIR lighting, and network drops for cameras.
Network drop near 1 or 2 electrical outlets per room. EMI should not be a problem for networked devices with Cat6A as long as you leave a little seperation if at all. Homerun all drops to a logical place for the router to be, which could be the MPOE or telco location. I would also run several extra drops for wireless access points in the attic/ceiling which will provide full coverage across the house, which will connect to your router/switch. Network infrastructure will increase the value of your house, increase reliability of your network, and both increase resale value and give you much better wifi coverage vs having a your ISP wifi router trying to cover your house and needing goofy wifi-extenders plugged in everywhere.
Electrician did a nice neat job. I'm a retired 40 year Electrician, I never used those quick connections in the can lights, wire nuts, no crimp sleeves in grounding, but most of all one of my fellow workers died of mouth cancer. He always held a few with his lips, galvanized staples. A couple shots it looked like he was carrying that way. Don't want to see any one go thru what he did. Although you will never see his wiring once drywalled, the rough in inspector will see some one who is proud of there work, he won't have to look very hard to find a violation, if there is. Very nice, n this coming from Boca Grande, Fl.
I'm surprised ethernet cables aren't built-in.. in a large house wired connections are still kinda necessary.. especially for those technology minded type families. I would certainly want a CAT-6a shielded cable in all my rooms if I can help..
I was going to ask the same! Was also wondering why no comments on Smart Home !
That what I was thinking, maybe that part is yet to come.
They're not done yet.
@@pileofstuff I think these episodes are lagging 4 months ish. They were filmed around September
In the latest Q&A episode they confirmed that they run cat6 cables 'thoroughly' throughout the house.
Give us some more details on why you choose that spot for the meter, the spot for the Panel and why you went with a sub panel. I figured 200 amp would have been enough.
I did a 200 amp main and 200 amp sub at my last home (retrofit upgrade). I guess it's not a common configuration because I got a lot of confused comments about it from trades people over the years ("What's the point of this?" "Why a 200 amp sub instead of 60 amps or 100amps?" "This is overkill" and of course my favorite "You can't have a 200 amp sub on a 200 amp main! The main needs to be 400 amp for that to work!"). Basically 200 amps total in the system provides plenty of power for a house this size but one panel doesn't provide enough breaker slots for a really ideal install. For example, I had a separate branch for the regular living room outlets and another breaker for the TV/AV bank of outlets. There's no code reason to do that but it's beautiful to have a dedicated branch for AV equipment where the power is unlikely to be affected by anything else that's happening. Doing extra circuits avoids ever having to worry about too much load being on one or about having interference from usage (ie, lights flicker when someone runs a garbage disposal or something). The other reason to do a sub is to avoid having to run romex for every branch all the way back to the main panel. EC put the sub into the center of this house so for every outlet and light that's closer to the sub, you can save a lot of copper by running to the sub panel rather than having to go all the way back to the main. It's a really nice setup.
And my house has one 60 Amp panel. I can't imagine why 200 amps is helpful with an efficient house and natural gas.
@@timrich6755 it isn't. 60 is just fine, but old. Most municipalities/poco's require 100 minimum, just to simplify everything.
And, if you have a 60, good on you. Just make sure the connections and insulation is still good. All mechanical, even wire, has a usable life.
1. This is a 200 amp service, not a 400 amp service for those who might have missed that.
2. 100 amp services are the minimum per NEC except for a very small structure. I'm getting into the what on that.
3. If the calculated load is larger than 100, then you have to be larger than 100. And anything between a 100 amp and a 200 amp service panel is more expensive than a 200 amp service panel.
4. Feeding a 200 amp subpanel from a 200 amp panel eliminates the requirements for a breaker upstream or downstream of the feeder. As in you can use pass through lugs to main lugs.
@@timrich6755 Stove 30A, Fridge 15A, Dryer 30A, Washer 15A, Dishwasher 15A, Microwave 15 A, Heating and cooling systems and lighting are not even there and you've exceeded 100A. Natural gas is less efficient than electricity* (outside of third world countries, or the US where inefficient thermal power plants are still in use) and not available everywhere (and it's availability does not mean that you should use it)
Merry Christmas to all EC fans, love from Guernsey 🎄🎷👍
As a drywall guy it makes me smile to see him properly stripping the outer sheath, and stuffing the wires in the box. The guys around here don't remove the outer sheath and the leave about five miles of romex hanging out of the box. We try to get them stuffed in far enough to not hit them with the router when we cut the box out, but sometimes there's so much wire in there it can't be helped. I always ask them if they get paid by the foot of wire. Most if them around here have never even seen a staple either.
Argggg! 12" to centers on outlets?!?! 18" is "normal" now, it makes usage of the outlet is so much easier. Electrician should have had the meter and outside outlets roughed in before siding to make it easier for the outside finish. All this from 42+ years in the trade. Neat and workman like is in Article 110 of the code.
I see more 18” in new commercial for ADA compliance, resi depends of preference
Ha ha Typical Electrician, "ThAt'S NoT hOw I wOuLd Of DoNe It!"
@@spenserthomas3635 well your not an electrician so you don’t have a leg to stand on.
@@FishFind3000 Except, that I am. I just find this attitude hilarious peoples opinions aren't code unless you are the inspector.
If you've got a lot of caulking to do and painting it's always advisable to prime all your raw wood before you caulk, you're adhesion rate will be far more successful
I believe that was primed
And I'm pretty sure it wasn't actually even wood but some kind of composite or at least manufactured wood
It's always nice to watch professionals at work.
Lovely way to start the day. Happy holidays guys!