I had a Husqvarna 51 apart and forgot to realy tighten the Clutch back on. Needless to say that the Clutch came off and scared the crap outta me. You wouldn't believe how fast they whizz off. Lesson learned, I'll never ever start a saw without side cover on em. Thanks for the fun facts and helpful information you bring to the channel.
hey man thanks for doing these vids on the poulan high-tops really helps clearing up some things I wasn't sure about because i can't find it anywhere else on the internet not saying it isn't out there just, I haven't found it anyways thanks reallyy appreciate the vids please do make more
I watch a lot of saw repair videos and it amazing that people don't take two minutes to wash the area that there working on and take a risk of that oil and saw dust getting into the engine 🤔
I am going to see if a 1" sch80 aluminum pipe machined on the inside will make a good seal holder. It appears the ms250 crank seals are the same ID and depth just need a spacer.
Does the tool work on newer saws because i wouldn't care if the old worn out seal gets bent if its already ruined it ain't nothing to me i have plenty of those screws but wasn't wanting to do it that way If we could pop those out with a pole and hammer like doing rim bearings and bushings it would be alot easier than that just put the pole in from one side an one smack then do the other side the same way and it's out
I prefer the seal type you are using there. Can't get them for everything. When I was doing small engines for a living my boss didn't like them. He didn't glue them in. I've always used three bond, or gasket shellac. Both work well.
I put seals in my 3.7 craftsman yesterday. PAIN IN THE ASS. I've put seals in countless saws. The bore was way tight,and ther was no bevel in the bore, or on the seal lip. I ruined one set trying to get them in. Before it even tried on the second I took a jeweler's file and put a little bevel on the bore. Side note. It's the same seal that gets used on a Lombard commango.
These two tools work quite well when pulling or installing seals. They are automotive type but they work quite well with small engines. You might want to give them a try. OTC 7196 Crank and Cam Seal Service Kit-they also sell this tool in a cheaper version which works exactly the same. I have both the OTC tool and the cheap version which I think I only paid like $40 for it. Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller which is also a excellent puller.
I have the Lisle tool. I have never gotten it to work on these particular seals. It just bends them. These Poulans with the large outside diameter crank seals are the only saws I cannot use my Lisle tool on. I keep a screw available just for them.
@@novicelumberjack why worry about bending old seals when your taking them out anyways. I heard you say the tool doesn't really work good i don't have the tool and have those same saws with the same problems they're a few people gave to me so if that tool doesn't do good on those what other tool would I've done mower rim bushings similar to that the first 2 were hard to get out and craftsmen uses John deere rim bushings I couldn't go with bearings because they didn't have them for craftsmen rims
@@Mike-su8si You misunderstand. I am not worried about the seals, the Lisle puller tool bends them and slipps off without removing them. These seals are the only ones I have had a problem with because they are so wide. They bend rather than pop out. So...the best method to remove them is exactly what I do in the video. I have used a small slide hammer as well, nothing works as well as a sharp screw punched in with a small hammer, screwed in to get good grip, then grabbed and pried out. Works flawlessly everytime.
Do you know this from experience, or are you just guessing at it? They have worked great for me. The large outside diameter of these really causes problems I think. I have never been able to pull them with my Lisle tool, it just bends them. The screw is the only way that works. I also have a small slide hammer, the screw is much easier and faster. Also, when driving in the stock type, they are so wide that it can be difficult to get them in straight. I've never had a problem with them leaking, but I also just started using them a little over a year ago.
@@novicelumberjack even with three bond they will work there way out in time I've repaired a few of those saws with that style of crank seals , they work great for awhile but and seal pushes in that easy will fail at some point .
I see. I had my very first set do that. Pushed out on the flywheel side, but not far enough to leak. Since, I have used a sealant to hold them in place and haven't had a problem so far. Hopefully I never will.
Thanks for the demo Boedy!… I for a free basket case (almost complete bottom end and a coffee can full of parts) that I believe to be a 3600. S/N doesn’t pull up anywhere on the web but, it’s 49mm chrome cylinder (530036154) and other parts look to be correct for 3600. I’m gonna try and bring it back to life!
At 49mm, that is definitely the sought after cylinder. Make sure to check the crank for any amount of movement, bearings can wear and so can the crank, causing an air leak even after new crank seals. Don't wanna mess up that nice new cylinder.
I had a Husqvarna 51 apart and forgot to realy tighten the Clutch back on. Needless to say that the Clutch came off and scared the crap outta me. You wouldn't believe how fast they whizz off. Lesson learned, I'll never ever start a saw without side cover on em. Thanks for the fun facts and helpful information you bring to the channel.
hey man thanks for doing these vids on the poulan high-tops really helps clearing up some things I wasn't sure about because i can't find it anywhere else on the internet not saying it isn't out there just, I haven't found it anyways thanks reallyy appreciate the vids please do make more
Check these out. An entire playlist of Noth but Poulan Hightops.
ua-cam.com/play/PLkqAPW0zQmFIonB4pVRTikZImHhO0yhis.html
@@novicelumberjack thanks man
I watch a lot of saw repair videos and it amazing that people don't take two minutes to wash the area that there working on and take a risk of that oil and saw dust getting into the engine 🤔
Nice video. Thanks for your time
Great video.. Wish I could find more good poulans in Alberta
Hi
Good tip with the screw. Thank you for sharing. 💪👍
Greetings, Dirk
Thanks Dirk!
I am going to see if a 1" sch80 aluminum pipe machined on the inside will make a good seal holder. It appears the ms250 crank seals are the same ID and depth just need a spacer.
Does the tool work on newer saws because i wouldn't care if the old worn out seal gets bent if its already ruined it ain't nothing to me i have plenty of those screws but wasn't wanting to do it that way
If we could pop those out with a pole and hammer like doing rim bearings and bushings it would be alot easier than that just put the pole in from one side an one smack then do the other side the same way and it's out
I prefer the seal type you are using there. Can't get them for everything. When I was doing small engines for a living my boss didn't like them. He didn't glue them in. I've always used three bond, or gasket shellac. Both work well.
I put seals in my 3.7 craftsman yesterday. PAIN IN THE ASS. I've put seals in countless saws. The bore was way tight,and ther was no bevel in the bore, or on the seal lip. I ruined one set trying to get them in. Before it even tried on the second I took a jeweler's file and put a little bevel on the bore. Side note. It's the same seal that gets used on a Lombard commango.
So what kinda saw are u working on there bud???????
I always took a little torch to that worm gear and just dropped it back on.
There should be a washer between the drum and the oil pump.
Any know were can get top end for 3000 poulan
Looks-to me-like you got the clutch back together wrong. 😶
I saw that to he probably caught that and flipped it to the right side though
Yes use the terminal plier
You need to invest in a small slid hammer for that process
Had 1 fly out in the woods
These two tools work quite well when pulling or installing seals.
They are automotive type but they work quite well with small engines.
You might want to give them a try.
OTC 7196 Crank and Cam Seal Service Kit-they also sell this tool in a cheaper version which works exactly the same. I have both the OTC tool and the cheap version which I think I only paid like $40 for it.
Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller which is also a excellent puller.
I have the Lisle tool. I have never gotten it to work on these particular seals. It just bends them. These Poulans with the large outside diameter crank seals are the only saws I cannot use my Lisle tool on. I keep a screw available just for them.
@@novicelumberjack why worry about bending old seals when your taking them out anyways. I heard you say the tool doesn't really work good i don't have the tool and have those same saws with the same problems they're a few people gave to me so if that tool doesn't do good on those what other tool would
I've done mower rim bushings similar to that the first 2 were hard to get out and craftsmen uses John deere rim bushings I couldn't go with bearings because they didn't have them for craftsmen rims
Does the cheap puller work good
@@Mike-su8si You misunderstand. I am not worried about the seals, the Lisle puller tool bends them and slipps off without removing them. These seals are the only ones I have had a problem with because they are so wide. They bend rather than pop out. So...the best method to remove them is exactly what I do in the video. I have used a small slide hammer as well, nothing works as well as a sharp screw punched in with a small hammer, screwed in to get good grip, then grabbed and pried out. Works flawlessly everytime.
@@novicelumberjack that's all I needed to know so I'm not gonna buy the tool I'll do it with a screw
👍s🆙BigGuy!
Small slide hammer.
Don't think I owned that saw. Maybe its Eric Nicol
Looks like a dirt bike seal to me.
Don't have to get that hot.
Those type of seals are more likely to fail that the oem seals .
Do you know this from experience, or are you just guessing at it? They have worked great for me. The large outside diameter of these really causes problems I think. I have never been able to pull them with my Lisle tool, it just bends them. The screw is the only way that works. I also have a small slide hammer, the screw is much easier and faster. Also, when driving in the stock type, they are so wide that it can be difficult to get them in straight. I've never had a problem with them leaking, but I also just started using them a little over a year ago.
@@novicelumberjack even with three bond they will work there way out in time I've repaired a few of those saws with that style of crank seals , they work great for awhile but and seal pushes in that easy will fail at some point .
I see. I had my very first set do that. Pushed out on the flywheel side, but not far enough to leak. Since, I have used a sealant to hold them in place and haven't had a problem so far. Hopefully I never will.
@@novicelumberjack is the sealer shit heat and oil resistant
@@Mike-su8si yes
Thanks for the demo Boedy!…
I for a free basket case (almost complete bottom end and a coffee can full of parts) that I believe to be a 3600. S/N doesn’t pull up anywhere on the web but, it’s 49mm chrome cylinder (530036154) and other parts look to be correct for 3600.
I’m gonna try and bring it back to life!
At 49mm, that is definitely the sought after cylinder. Make sure to check the crank for any amount of movement, bearings can wear and so can the crank, causing an air leak even after new crank seals. Don't wanna mess up that nice new cylinder.