Nicely done. I was surprised that there doesn't seem to be anything pegging it in place on the slab. Is it just sitting there? Does it ever get attached to the slab or does it stay free floating on the duck fat?
When I build the walls those will be lag bolted to the concrete slab and attached to the frame. The posts themselves sit on 1/2 inch pvc plates to prevent moisture wicking.
Judd, I see the school is offering this timber framing class again. I lack woodworking experience but I think I can make up for it with determination/hard-headedness. Do you have a sense of how much it would cost to finish the sauna build beyond the frame, in a similar style to what you did? I realize you already had a lot of the lumber you used. I’m just looking for a very general ballpark range.
First, I strongly recommend the class. You could definitely take the class, even as someone with minimal woodworking experience. Once the frame is done, there's a lot of work to be done still for the rest of the build, but if you tackle things one step at a time, you can get through it. I wish I'd kept better track of my costs... not doing so fully may have been partially a "living in denial" issue, as I usually track project costs pretty religiously. If I had to guess, I'd think $10k would be a reasonable ball park estimate including stove, roofing, foundation, walls, insulation, electrical. Mine is definitely overbuilt. While building it I definitely had my moments where I thought I was crazy, spending all that time, effort and money to build a sauna. Now that I have it, I think no expense or effort would have been too much. We LOVE the sauna and use it three times a week in colder weather. Good luck, and don't hesitate to reach out for advice or inspiration along the way.
@@SalemWoodworks thanks Judd! I am certainly going to take the class. I don’t have ready lumber or decent trees to cut down to mill. Whereas you had some cool lumber I may try using pallet wood as exterior siding. As a CPA I am used to breaking down projects into smaller steps. I know I previously asked you about solar panels on the roof or doing a turf roof. Here’s another question: did you give any thought to setting the stove up to open through the hearth wall with an exterior feed so as to avoid bringing dirty wood into your clean sauna? If so, what were the pros/cons for you? I know you went with a Nippa, which has a great reputation. Many of my Finn friends swear Nippa stoves are the best. You may think you overbuilt, but you have a fabulous end result, and as you said are getting your return on time and money invested.
I started from the dimensions in the plans that were provided with the North House course. I completed the rest of the detailed design myself using Sketchup. It really is a great course. I strongly recommend it. If you're looking for a nice place to stay in Grand Marais, I have a recommendation there as well...
There is another guy on Facebook who's currently building the same sauna. He's posting two two different FB groups: "The Timber Frame Apprentice" and "Sauna Design, Construction and Enjoyment". If you use Facebook, you might consider seeking out those groups. I'm also happy to be a sounding-board.
The foundation is a 40 inch high concrete wall 12 inches thick. Crushed rock and gravel is inside and compacted and then an 6 in slab on top of that. The middle area of the slab under the central posts has a rebar reinforced footing. The drains are nothing fancy, they just exit the side into gravel bed which drains into our pond. We don't expect to use anything other than clean water for over the stove/stones for sauna steam. No need for a septic system.
I think you're mostly seeing the entire frame assembly rock there. There isn't much play in those joints, and the beams themselves are 6x6, so they're not flexing. Once pinned, the assembly is very stiff.
Nice job! Thanks for showing all the details of the construction. What did you use on the base of the post to keep it off the concrete? I'm referring to the white plate screwed to the base of the post.
It was cut from 1/2 inch PVC sheet that I had left over from another project. Intended to prevent moisture wicking fom the slab into the end grain of the posts.
Initially, I didn't. I'm not saying this is the best practice, but what I did was bolt the sills the the slab when building the walls and then the walls got fastened to the frame. You can see that in the later video for raising the walls. I guess it's a good thing we didn't have any crazy wind storms (it would take something akin to a hurricane to move this beast, I'd think) between building the roof and bolting the walls to the slab.
Imagine having a family like that. Dad must be proud. This is magical.
so satisfying watching the joy of it coming together
There is nothing better than the sound of a tenon 'thunking' into a mortise. Nice work!!!
It's certainly satisfying when things fit together. Thanks!
Nicely done. Great to see a family working together.
Thanks
Looks fantastic! Very inspirational stuff here.
Absolutely incredible! Loved watching the process
Impressive work, I watched it with pleasure. BTW what was the white liquid used to protect the posts' bottoms?
Anchor Seal
@@SalemWoodworks thank you! Found it here.
Enjoying watching ❤️
Awesome... Looks so nice! many hands... you must have stayed up all night editing to get the vid up, nice job!
Thanks. Today was a rest/recovery/video editing day.
What was your recipe for your sealer? I could not hear the citrus something something
2 parts raw linseed oil, 1 part D-Limonene
Nicely done. I was surprised that there doesn't seem to be anything pegging it in place on the slab. Is it just sitting there? Does it ever get attached to the slab or does it stay free floating on the duck fat?
When I build the walls those will be lag bolted to the concrete slab and attached to the frame. The posts themselves sit on 1/2 inch pvc plates to prevent moisture wicking.
Good question. I have the same one. What duck fat?!
@@1qazandrew333 you didn't listen closely.
@@SalemWoodworks Oh well.. missed that bit.
I thought it was just end grain sealer
Great job!! Really impressive Judd. Love the jig and the joinery. Did you anchor the frames to the concrete pad?
Not yet. When I build the walls the sills will be anchored to the pad and the walls attached to the frame.
Outstanding
Judd, I see the school is offering this timber framing class again. I lack woodworking experience but I think I can make up for it with determination/hard-headedness. Do you have a sense of how much it would cost to finish the sauna build beyond the frame, in a similar style to what you did? I realize you already had a lot of the lumber you used. I’m just looking for a very general ballpark range.
First, I strongly recommend the class. You could definitely take the class, even as someone with minimal woodworking experience. Once the frame is done, there's a lot of work to be done still for the rest of the build, but if you tackle things one step at a time, you can get through it. I wish I'd kept better track of my costs... not doing so fully may have been partially a "living in denial" issue, as I usually track project costs pretty religiously. If I had to guess, I'd think $10k would be a reasonable ball park estimate including stove, roofing, foundation, walls, insulation, electrical. Mine is definitely overbuilt. While building it I definitely had my moments where I thought I was crazy, spending all that time, effort and money to build a sauna. Now that I have it, I think no expense or effort would have been too much. We LOVE the sauna and use it three times a week in colder weather. Good luck, and don't hesitate to reach out for advice or inspiration along the way.
@@SalemWoodworks thanks Judd! I am certainly going to take the class. I don’t have ready lumber or decent trees to cut down to mill. Whereas you had some cool lumber I may try using pallet wood as exterior siding. As a CPA I am used to breaking down projects into smaller steps. I know I previously asked you about solar panels on the roof or doing a turf roof. Here’s another question: did you give any thought to setting the stove up to open through the hearth wall with an exterior feed so as to avoid bringing dirty wood into your clean sauna? If so, what were the pros/cons for you? I know you went with a Nippa, which has a great reputation. Many of my Finn friends swear Nippa stoves are the best.
You may think you overbuilt, but you have a fabulous end result, and as you said are getting your return on time and money invested.
I am thinking of taking the same course and building the same sauna. Where did you get the plans? Thank you
I started from the dimensions in the plans that were provided with the North House course. I completed the rest of the detailed design myself using Sketchup. It really is a great course. I strongly recommend it. If you're looking for a nice place to stay in Grand Marais, I have a recommendation there as well...
There is another guy on Facebook who's currently building the same sauna. He's posting two two different FB groups: "The Timber Frame Apprentice" and "Sauna Design, Construction and Enjoyment". If you use Facebook, you might consider seeking out those groups. I'm also happy to be a sounding-board.
@@SalemWoodworks Thank you very much!!!
Great frame guys!
Thank you!
I'm curious about how you built the foundation. I see drain pipes in the concrete. Do you have a septic system built in?
The foundation is a 40 inch high concrete wall 12 inches thick. Crushed rock and gravel is inside and compacted and then an 6 in slab on top of that. The middle area of the slab under the central posts has a rebar reinforced footing. The drains are nothing fancy, they just exit the side into gravel bed which drains into our pond. We don't expect to use anything other than clean water for over the stove/stones for sauna steam. No need for a septic system.
@@SalemWoodworks great thanks
5:45 the post he is driving the pins in seems kinda wobbly. Is that just the strength of the wood? or the joint?
I think you're mostly seeing the entire frame assembly rock there. There isn't much play in those joints, and the beams themselves are 6x6, so they're not flexing. Once pinned, the assembly is very stiff.
Nice job! Thanks for showing all the details of the construction. What did you use on the base of the post to keep it off the concrete? I'm referring to the white plate screwed to the base of the post.
It was cut from 1/2 inch PVC sheet that I had left over from another project. Intended to prevent moisture wicking fom the slab into the end grain of the posts.
Was gonna ask the same question. Can the timber frame not move at all or do you fasten it somehow
Great video. Did you anchor the frame to the slab?
When I built the walls I anchored the sills to the fame with concrete anchor bolts. You can see this in a later video.
What are the pipes that you see in the foundation?
Drains. 4 inch pvc pipe.
What wood species is your frame?
White pine.
How did you anchor your post to the cement?
Initially, I didn't. I'm not saying this is the best practice, but what I did was bolt the sills the the slab when building the walls and then the walls got fastened to the frame. You can see that in the later video for raising the walls. I guess it's a good thing we didn't have any crazy wind storms (it would take something akin to a hurricane to move this beast, I'd think) between building the roof and bolting the walls to the slab.
As you drill especially with a paddle,I have felt the far side with the tip
It’s just the point away and that’s a 1\2”?
Pretty sweet! Did you turn the big pins too?!
No. Thankfully those were provided as part of the frame materials, included with the course.
4:28 made me smile
Me too :-)
I just realized we forgot the "topping out" ceremony during frame raising... how did I overlook this?
Those keepers straps pull from one side
They can roll the timber
They do pull unevenly, but it worked.
@@SalemWoodworksthe wax helped