Great video! I tend to accumulate these since I do HVAC and they are very useful. Ecm motors are becoming more common and how you wire them will be a bit different. On a constant torque(a few space connectors on motor itself) motor, you can connect live to L1 and neutral(or other live if 240v, confirm motor voltage) to L2. Use the 24v transformer in the furnace or handler and hook one of the 24v outputs to C and the other output to the speed you want(number 1-5). If it is a variable speed ecm motor, the wiring will be a bit different. By the way, with PSC motors such as those shown in the video, the brown wires(one is usually solid color, other usually has a white strip) go to a capacitor. Make sure it is present and testing good. I’ve also found 3m to be the only electrical tape that works well.
As a Plumber/Gasfitter here in Canada I use these fans for lots of stuff. They work really good for exhausting air or circulating air around. I also use them to thaw mobile homes to blow hot air from my salamander heaters down to the back of the mobile. They even work great in a house to circulate air from my wood stove in winter or draw in cool air/exhaust hot air in the summer. Works like a charm. That thick metal tubing you have is either z vent for gas or a flexible pellet stove interior liner. Great video as usual!
I work on the side for Heat Contractor and every furnace we pull I take the blower home. After cleaning them up I have no problems at all getting $60-$75 a piece for them. The farmers around here love them for cattle and horse barns. Good Video!
My old man was A construction/maintenance electrician for about 40 year's. All he used was 3M Scotch brand tape. Of course it was made in the state we lived in so we had to support the company!! He even worked at the 3M tape plant on the east side of St. Paul just before his retirement in 82'.
Now I see why you have so many subscribers, you have GREAT content! I was always afraid of those motors with so many wires, and you are the first person to explain it in 5 seconds! We have a mobile auto repair shop, and I can think of a lot of ways to use this, THANKS!!
Those are centrifugal type fans. As the fan spins it slings the air out of the inside of the impeller to the outside. When it does this,, air is sucked into the inside of the impeller to replace the air that left. As far as the loading, the only way I can explain it is to think of the air as water, and the fan is a water pump. Restrict the amount of water in the pump, it has less to pump so less work to do. This is why your vacuum cleaner at home speeds up when you hold your hand over the hose or it gets clogged up. Wide open the fan is completely full of air, max load on it. Restrict the air, nothing to pump, less load, so it speeds up.
Well Done ! Thank You ! I have two furnace fans I salvaged: One from 1972 furnace - One from 1995 furnace. The 1972 unit draws 15 AMPS (low speed : / and pushes air at 915 CFM The 1995 unit draws 5 AMPS (low speed : ) and pushes air at 1230 CFM Huge difference ! Think I'll put the older unit on craigslist.
Been using our old blower from our home furnace during the summer at our camp for about 15 years. Works great when you walk in & the place is 95 degrees from being closed up all week.
Wow, I have a fairly new squirrel cage fan I kept from my old furnace when I had a new one put in. I remember thinking it would be good for something but kind of forgot about it and didnt really know what to do with it anyway. Thanks, this will be tomorrows project!
Building a new 40'x40' shop. Have two of these that are wired 110v and extention cord. Picked up two more that are 220v. These will be permanently mounted and on a breaker. Thanks for the information on putting load on the blower. I did not know that. Great video!
We use a large version of one of these (easily twice the size the one in the video) when remodeling rooms in our house. Position it so that it's blowing outside through an open window and all of the demolition/drywall/plaster dust is evacuated in a heartbeat.
Thanks, I just had my HVAC replaced in my home, and they temporarily left my old furnace/blower in my attic. I'm going up there to salvage the blower now!
13 years as a traffic signal technician where taped wires can be left in place for decades, literally. Scotch Super 88 was what we used for most if not all the years I was there.
I love those blowers. I installed one in an enclosed trailer when I needed it as a shop and it about blew me out of there. The best thing it did however was blow all the saw dust right out the back of the trailer. Great tutorial!
Fantastic. I finally got a minute to catch up on watching some vids. That 88tape is the same type I use. You get what you pay for and made in the USA! Crazy dog is back, yes!
my dad and grandfather got a commercial fan like that from a building that was to be demolished in the 70s. After putting bigger bearings and a chain drive on it it was used as a pto driven leaf blower on our golf course. 24" fan with a 24x18" discharge. we had 60 acres lined with woods on 3 sides and had about 250 trees on the course. lots of leaves were moved with it and my dad still uses it to clear his yard in the fall.
Great video and information. I have a large one I'm making into an air quality/cleaner blower. I do woodworking projects and I'm getting ready to start the restoration on my 56 chevy in the same shop, so clean air is important. Thanks for the wiring help.
I have some small blowers I bought for around $50 each. One is a Stanley and another is a Lasko but they are essentially the same. They are great for moving air. They don't move as much as a furnace blower but we can easily keep it in our hall closet. We often take one on road trips for circulating air in the hotel room and drying swimsuits.
I changed to Scotch electrical tape a year or two ago. I don't care if it cost more. It works and is not frustrating to use. Squirrel cage fans are great. I have a small one that I use when working under a car. I use to live where there were to many mosquitoes. Drive you nuts without fans. It was even worse under a car. That fan would keep them off while working. Plus they can take being banged around and they don't tip over like a box fan.
Bug control... Good tip. Yeah, I will pay a little extra for tape that actually works. I threw away a dozen rolls of off brand stuff the first time I used the amazing Scotch tape.
I got one sitting in My garage for ten years now. I'm thinking of retrofitting a furnace filter in a box (cardboard, steel, plastic, etc..) with the blower to use as an air purifier. It would clean out the air in a large room in no time flat.
I wired mine up but needs assistance to start spinning, does this mean that I need a capacitor for it? Also, will a 370/440v capacitor work if I’m using 110v? Another great, helpful video as always. Thank you!
Informative as always. I wish I could think outside the box ( fan ) more often. lol. PaintSociety showed how to construct a cheap temporary spray booth and I think one of these might work. Maybe too powerful? I'll keep it in mind for next year's paint projects. On another note. I won a running AutoTron 3300 at auction last week for $128 ( retail $2k ). Picking up after Thanksgiving. I was shaping up to buy one of those $600+ jobbies from Amz too. Induction heater that is for rusty bolts. This 3300 model can do more than that apparently - PDR, windshield and bedliner removal. Always stay inquisitive you never know what you may learn!
i love the squirrel fan. i have a massive one that really blows the air actually to much air but I'm saving that for when i move and actually have a good size shop. As always great video my friend.
Love it man! I have one in my shop too. Made an air cleaner out of it. Just in a box with furnace filters on 3 sides, rolling on casters. Love your vids!!
I have made 2 of these things so far. One for an air filter for wood working and another for when ever i get around to building a coal forge (this was a real small one out of a window AC unit). Will eventually make another for a fumes fan for welding.
Yeah you just have to be careful you aren't sucking your shielding gas. The small one i pulled from a window ac would more than likely be plenty on medium setting.
I just had our furnace and air conditioner replaced and I salvaged the blower. I use that thing all the time to blow the airborne sawdust out of my wood shop to great effect. I just acquired a second one which will be used for drying things.
Hey 65, I miss all the stuff I used to get like that, just going out at night, garbage picking. That was a traditional rite of passage for tinkerers and other hoarder types like moi. Where I live, now, in northern PA, everything either goes in a pile and turns to rust because it is so wet and humid up here, or goes up to New York State for scrap. There are no entrepreneurs who like to turn junk into jewels, up here in these hills. Hey, I am a poet and didn`t know it.
that's a capacitor run motor. cap start are black,round usually has a bleed resistor to drain the capacitance charge slowly. also keeps fom knock the beejesus outta in case you accidently touch it. bleed resistor also lengthens the capacitor and start relay contacts.
An idea that has been around for a very long time. I have used them as extractor motors when I am welding, brazing or even on a small scale as a soldering station extractor. In my shop i have three of them with A/C deflector to help spread the air around. Found and old commerical squirrel cage that I use to extract air out of the ceiling which moves a lot of air.
Thanks, I am going to make one of those fans and I didn't know about the air restriction glad I watched this before I made one. And yes the super 88 is the best I have found also.
I threw away at least a dozen rolls of cheap stuff I had laying around. I was so tired of using electrical tape that fell off after a day or so. Now I'll happily pay more for Super 88 or 33+ .
The best shop squirrel cage fan I had was from a server rack, It really moved some air quietly. Lost it after a move. There is an HVAC shop within sight of my house, time to stop by!
I just learned why my blower turned shop fan cycles off and on. The motor is getting too hot, thanks for the education. I will add just a bit of intake restriction as you demonstrated.
these fans are designed to work in a box... like you’ll find them mounted in a furnace. in a box, some air will pass through both sides, cooling the motor. run wide open (unrestricted) on the input side and restrict the discharge side. adjust the discharge while watching a clamp ammeter- metering power consumption. you will hear the speed jump up when you hit the right amount of restriction, and the amps drawn will be at a low. the fan is now balanced for performance, which will ensure a longer life. remote the capacitor to the outside of the fan cabinet for easy service- the starting capacitor should crap out long before the fan motor.
Great video! I have a blower that I need to wire. It has the capacitor wires (brown). Do I have to use the capacitor when I wire a switch/cord in or can I abandon the brown wires?
I learn something everytime I watch you... the wiring was very informative ...no I know .. in Quebec Canada they had there worst flood in a hundred years so they need to ventilate so this is great
Awesome info touching on exactly what I needed to know about wiring it up. I also learned something new with restricting to keep it running correctly. I’ll think about the dimmer switch too
Scotch tape is great EXCEPT if it gets hot! I used scotch tape for years and was always glad to have it UNTIL I left some in my non AC garage. After a desert summer when I took some tape off the roll the adhesive had stuck itself on the tape underneath and had lost all of it's stick-to-it! I still have a few rolls in the house that are just fine, but a handful of new rolls out in my garage went belly up. Just a tip for those in hotter climates.
Good to know. It's held up better to heat than any other electrical tape I've tried. On a side note I recently started using TESA 50126 wire loom tape and it is great stuff for wrapping looms. It is a fabric tape and is high heat rated for under the hood use. The fabric doesn't allow the adhesive to melt off.
That fabric loom tape sounds great. The odd thing about the 3M scotch tape is that it seems to hold up pretty well under the hood even in the desert conditions, other brands the adhesive can go all goo-ie and come off the loom. I've more that once had to remove and replace tape like that off of looms and it was a greasy mess. BUT Scotch tape *on the roll* left out in the daily 110+ temps for a summer, not so good. Another funny thing, I have a couple of dollar store rolls of tape (precious to me now) that have lasted just fine for years out in the garage. The desert is a very harsh place
I use an old swamp cooler motor and cage. Same thing ....two speed also...swamp cooler on casters its about 3" off the floor...bucket of water in it and it works for a while....til the humidity rises to the point that evaporation has saturated the air....actually works better when doors windows are open.
It looked like one of those ocean snails, with the four air outlets. On a serious note, what a useful project. I hope I can find one free to make a stand alone blower.
Drive by some HVAC service shops and pop in. I've never had a place turn me down if they had them. You'll generally need a 5/16" and 1/4" nut driver or socket/ratchet and something to snip wires and they pop right out.
It seams to work very well. I had an identical unit in the same spot last year but it just shot straight down. It was great for getting the Carb cleaner, paint, etc fumes out of my face if I stood directly under. It'll be nice to be able to stand almost anywhere and have fresh air.
good video .. thank you for the share.. i have actually been thinking about mounting some under my house to pull some cooler air in and a project to play with geothermal but my restriction would be on the intake side.. i hope people share and try your ideas
this is what im trying to accomplish with my blower extractor mounted to the ceiling... However I cannot tell what the steps are for wiring the switch? It seems like you may have skipped a step..
I've toyed around with this idea for a few years now. These have great suction through the side and could easily be adapted with flexible dryer hose to suck welding fumes.
Great video! Next time I'll keep the fan complete and set up garage ventilation. I've pulled the motors out of several of these and have them sitting in my garage. What projects are good for these size/speed motors?
That's what I thought. But when I asked an electrician friend about making a grinder he very adamantly said no way it won't work. I'll just have to find out for myself. :-)
On a side note, they will need a fan of sorts. Most motors have a basic cooling fan build in, these don't for obvious reasons. I would think a basic propeller fan made out of sheet metal on the shaft would suffice.
I watch how you make those four holes. What tool is that? It cuts the metal fast. Also I have a question, my wood/metal/plastic scroll 16" been unused for 15 years, . I oil it and check it out. Not working!! I contact dremel company. They said no parts available since 2005. So I took it apart and the motor has 4 wires. White, yellow, red, and blue. If I want to wire it to white and black cord, to see if motor is good or not. Motherboard sitting next to it. I am not worried about the motherboard as I am not going to used them. Just the motor if it works. How do I wire them? What colors?
Ok,so would X amount of filters place in front of it provide the back pressure necessary? That way you get diffused clean air coming out of the filters and the motor gets the resistance it needs. The box fan/filter setups result in wild air currents stirring up god knows what in a dusty area you're trying to clean so eff that! What about it? Is a filter or five say in front of one of these a win win?
I had a neighbor give me one and I built a stand for it. I can't use DEET everyday so I use the power of the Hawaiian Islands - a steady wind. Mosquitos can't fly in that kind of wind. I can't find a good wiring diagram for it, and would have to take the motor out to read the one glued to it. There is no blue wire, it's white, black, dark green, orange, red, and brown. I have white and dark green hooked up, and it blows good, and thanks to your info about back pressure, it no longer overheats. I have to start it by hand because it doesn't have a capacitor. BTW - if I use the black, it creates gale force winds.
Great informative video glad I found it. Just squired one of these fans. The first one you showed had a variable speed dial. How can I hook that up w/ 4 speed wire set up? Thank you do you have another video that shows it
The variable speed(light dimmer) is just hooked in line with the power wire. I don't find it very useful and wouldn't go out of my way to do that again.
I'm known as the fan man I have so many different sizes. I have one that runs off a tractor it's 5'. I like the old ones that you can still oil the bearings.
Should just have the standard wiring: White: common to one side of the plug -Speeds: (pick one for other side of your plug) BLACK: HIGH YELLOW: MEDIUM HIGH BLUE: MEDIUM (medium low if Yellow is present) RED: LOW GREEN: GROUND(hook it anywhere on the metal body)
I'll have to give it another look. But As I can recall it has more than 6 wires coming out of it. Maybe not though? It has been a while since I've seen it.
Just got one of these ... (larger) with an external, top-mount / belt-driven version ... I tested it, in open-air, and after 5 minutes or so, it stopped. I was sure i burnt the motor, BUT, after reading the data, it says "thermally protected" soooooooo my thought was that wen it reaches a certain temperature, it switches off (logic) 10 minutes later, i heard a small "click" in the motor .... so i decided to re-plug it and start it again ... as expected, it ran ok, but i stopped it manually. Question : If i build a housing (box) for mine with reduced intake area, will that PREVENT it from stopping randomly, as i would believe, the motor would be working less hard with more restriction applied to the wheel inside ? Sorry for the long "question".
I've got an old 4 speed blower fan, either the motor is bad or I'm doing it wrong, I've got it hooked up to a single pole double throw on/off/on toggle switch for high and low speeds, the speeds are on load A and load B and one wire goes to the line side of the switch while the other goes to common, all the switch does is make or break the connection between either speed tap and one line wire, I'm not measuring any current flow to common when the switch is off, during my initial testing where I briefly ran the blower for less than a second on both speeds to ensure I wired it right I got a whiff of electrical smell and there was immediate heat coming from the motor windings, casing was still stone cold, didn't blow the ground fault or overcurrent protection and the motor didn't sound labored and sounded mostly normal, though the intake was completely blocked so it wasn't running completely right, motor hasn't run in at least 2 years, I don't think it's quite cooked yet given how little it was run, but if it is I can get a good used motor for free, as I know a guy who's got a literal pile of fans and motors from old furnaces he removed
Thanks for the information. I just picked up an old 110 blower w/capacitor furnace motor. I did not know about the restriction requirements so appreciate the important information. Thanks!!
How would you wire a 240V, single phase induction (has capacitor) blower motor? My wall plug runs to a dual gang breaker where one is on main bar and the other is on the opposite bar (panel is setup that way). Then at the outlet the 20 Amp socket only has two connections for the two hot leads ( red and black) then one for the copper ground (neutral is capped in the wall box). If I continue the red and black from the socket using a mating 20 Amp plug, connecting 2 conductor wire with a ground wire, how would I attach those two wires at the end of the cord to the leads on the motor? There is a green connected to the casing, a black one that goes to the capacitor and on into the motor from the same capacitor terminal. From the other capacitor terminal there is a yellow wire disappearing into the motor. Then there are a red and a gray wire that connect to push terminal at the motor. All I see on the motor is a schematic showing those terminals (a third with no wire connected) are for High/Med/Low speeds. I am use to wiring 120 circuits where the neutral completes the circuit back to the panel. Since no neutral wire is present, it seems like the black leading to the capacitor ought to connect to one of the wires from the wall to start the motor via the induction winding (then likely there is a centrifugal switch in the motor that switches it off), then the other wire from the wall would connect to whichever speed terminal is desired. The ground could connect any place on the casing or the squirrel cage... My ignorance makes me wonder how either of the two wires from the wall will make a complete circuit so the winding create field and get the motor to work!! What knowledge am I missing? Are the two wires from the wall in opposite AC fluctuation and that makes it work even thought there is no completed circuit? Thanks for any advice or resources to help me figure this out.
With a 240v circuit no ground/neutral is needed for the device to run. This is because they are two 120v that are exactly opposite phases. So when one leg is 120volts positive the other is 120volts negative and feed off of each other, switching 60 times a second.
@@sixtyfiveford So, there are three wires going to the old furnace circuitry - Black/Red/LtBlue. Since the red/ltblue are on terminals to provide two different speeds, should I just pick one of those and the black, which feeds the capacitor and then goes on to the motor winding, and connect them to my wall socket? What baffles me is one would think you need a complete circuit somewhere for electrons to flow and generate the magnetic fields so the motor works... Am I still missing something? Thanks! Post script: I finally got the motor out of the housing and the bracket was covering part of the schematic! As I guessed, one power line to the black and one to the selected speed terminal! Off to wire a cord!!
@@ebachy Yes, black to one leg (L1) hot and choose the red or blue for the speed to the other hot leg(L2). The electrons are flowing negative to positive. So when L1 is 120v-, the current is flowing from there into L2 which is 120v+ . Then is switches and the current flows the other way.
@@sixtyfiveford Oddly, I tried that, flipped on the circuit breaker, plugged in the cord and switched the double pole switch to "on" and...nothing. There was not even a buzz/hum of it trying to start. I can position my circuit check tool by all the wires and it beeps that there is live power. Maybe I should try eliminating the switch... As a refresher, if I were to be sure the capacitor is discharged, should the ohms 0 when testing between the two terminals when it is disconnected? I am certain the blower motor worked when removed from the furnace many years ago...
I have 3 right now , you have to use a motor speed control because a light dimmer will not work with a motor also you can use a 3 way switch to give high and low
A rheostat isn't ideal for most motors as the load stays the same and reducing the speed puts more strain on the motor. A fan however reduces it's load compared to the speed. I've ran these for hours on end with rheostats.
I have been researching and designing a new way to clean the air in my shop and found your video. Thank you, great video. but I have questions-- will the rheostat burn the motor out? or would a motor speed controller work better over time for long run times. I like the idea of the rheostat over the speed controller because of $$$. Also can (how ) you hook up a temperature controller to it so it will come on at a certain temperature, like your rafter fan??? Kevin at whisperpineokie@yahoo.com
I was planing on building one of these with a 5 amp 4 position switch I pulled from a dead house fan, cost was "free." I later found out the purpose made switches arn't near as expensive as the motors. I bought a 25 AMP Rotary Switch 3 Speed 2 HP 4 position switch off eBay for $15USD. On my current blower low barley moves any air, so a high amp 3 position switch may do just fine for you if you do not need precise adjustment. A quick Ebay search for "temperature controller switch 110v" yields lots of switches that turn on automatically when a set temperature is reached for less than $3. I don't know the first question except to offer a third choice, however your second question was easy to answer. I'd be interested to see what you devise. I'd be interested to see the finished unit with some explanation in a youtube video some time if you could respond to this comet with the link.
It will use the exact same amount of electricity either way. Not all motors can be wired for 240volt but they all have a wiring schematic on the side that will show you which wire goes where for a 120 or 240v operation.
hello there so I have one just like the big one you got there but it doesn't have the white cable it comes with 4 different cables yellow blue red black and its grounded to the metal. so I plugged black power yellow neutral and green to ground but it doesn't run fast
i have that exact fan blowing on me right now. .mine is a 3 speed cap start. running an ON-OFF-ON switch so i have a high and low speed.. low uses almost no power.. even my cat is laying in front of it.. i have been using it for over 20 years. i do zoom spout oil it once a year or two. whats interesting .. i don't have any restriction on the output and none on the sides either. and it seems to blow slightly cooler air that what it takes in.. i suppose that because the fan is pulling air in thru the side openings and slinging it out into the housing its not compressing the air and not building any heat.. its actually lowering the heat slightly.. i don't have a quality instrument to measure with. but on low.. its really quiet. only a few issues. the cat will put his paws in the open side and drag his claws on the blades. and one time i came home from work.. and the fan was thumping out of balance. the cat watching it go around and around.. i walked over and flipped it off expecting to find a sock or something as it came to a stop.. nope.. a freshly spun out mouse. guess the cat chased him and he jumped into the fan to escape.. i was thinking if you are going to use a wall switch.. how about a 3 way switch.. so you could have high or low.. or high and medium. it should work..
I had one years ago setup with a on-off-on switch. I only used it on high because it was in the garage. Finally I ended up salvaging the switch off of it for a testing device I made. It is definitely a good call for an indoor use fan. I'm sure the mouse was a little dazed after that ride.
We took a meter and checked the amps it would draw. To my surprise when you blocked some of the iintake are, the amps dropped. It was fun tuning the fans to be efficient.
I wired it white to white and Black to black. Nothing happen. This one does have a capacitor on it. Could it be bad or do I have to re- wire it also? Thanks
3m super 33 hell yeah the best of the best amen. Three passes makes it waterproof and is exactly what well drillers use to submerged under water w 3 passes of super 33
Nothing is better than realizing there is good electrical tape. I remember wrapping complete wire looms in my truck only to have the cheap stuff slime off a month later.
I'm personally preferring blowers from Evap Coolers as their motor can be separated from the air stream and therefore less likely to explode when sucking flammable fumes like spray paints
Yes it will work this way. On the wall the Fatter outlet hole(one on the left) is the White/common/neutral wire. The skinnier one is the HOT lead. Pick only 1 of the 3 leads for motor speed and connect it to this side. Don't let the other two touch each other or anything, just isolate them with electrical tape/wire nuts.
ok i have a very important question that i hope you can answer. that fan of yours with the dimmer switch. how do you wire that up? do you have a video showing how or could you make a video showing how?
Great video! I tend to accumulate these since I do HVAC and they are very useful. Ecm motors are becoming more common and how you wire them will be a bit different. On a constant torque(a few space connectors on motor itself) motor, you can connect live to L1 and neutral(or other live if 240v, confirm motor voltage) to L2. Use the 24v transformer in the furnace or handler and hook one of the 24v outputs to C and the other output to the speed you want(number 1-5). If it is a variable speed ecm motor, the wiring will be a bit different.
By the way, with PSC motors such as those shown in the video, the brown wires(one is usually solid color, other usually has a white strip) go to a capacitor. Make sure it is present and testing good.
I’ve also found 3m to be the only electrical tape that works well.
As a Plumber/Gasfitter here in Canada I use these fans for lots of stuff. They work really good for exhausting air or circulating air around. I also use them to thaw mobile homes to blow hot air from my salamander heaters down to the back of the mobile. They even work great in a house to circulate air from my wood stove in winter or draw in cool air/exhaust hot air in the summer. Works like a charm. That thick metal tubing you have is either z vent for gas or a flexible pellet stove interior liner. Great video as usual!
My dad has been using one of these for decades so I got to grow up learning engines with them cooling me, I still think they're very cooooool.
I work on the side for Heat Contractor and every furnace we pull I take the blower home. After cleaning them up I have no problems at all getting $60-$75 a piece for them. The farmers around here love them for cattle and horse barns. Good Video!
I do the same. I blow the lint out, lube up the bearings, check for worn bearings and up for sale they go.
That’s what you call good old fashioned American ingenuity! Great job friend.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Your channel is so awesome man iv seen most of your videos I'll probably end up watching all of them over time.
My old man was A construction/maintenance electrician for about 40 year's. All he used was 3M Scotch brand tape. Of course it was made in the state we lived in so we had to support the company!!
He even worked at the 3M tape plant on the east side of St. Paul just before his retirement in 82'.
It's great tape for sure.
Now I see why you have so many subscribers, you have GREAT content! I was always afraid of those motors with so many wires, and you are the first person to explain it in 5 seconds!
We have a mobile auto repair shop, and I can think of a lot of ways to use this, THANKS!!
Thanks Man. -Moe
Thanks Moe, -Tim
,
Those are centrifugal type fans. As the fan spins it slings the air out of the inside of the impeller to the outside. When it does this,, air is sucked into the inside of the impeller to replace the air that left. As far as the loading, the only way I can explain it is to think of the air as water, and the fan is a water pump. Restrict the amount of water in the pump, it has less to pump so less work to do. This is why your vacuum cleaner at home speeds up when you hold your hand over the hose or it gets clogged up. Wide open the fan is completely full of air, max load on it. Restrict the air, nothing to pump, less load, so it speeds up.
Well Done !
Thank You !
I have two furnace fans I salvaged:
One from 1972 furnace - One from 1995 furnace.
The 1972 unit draws 15 AMPS (low speed : / and pushes air at 915 CFM
The 1995 unit draws 5 AMPS (low speed : ) and pushes air at 1230 CFM
Huge difference !
Think I'll put the older unit on craigslist.
I've seen these around quite a bit and they DO move a lot of air. Your distribution system is genius. Thanks, Sixty-five!
Thanks.
Been using our old blower from our home furnace during the summer at our camp for about 15 years. Works great when you walk in & the place is 95 degrees from being closed up all week.
That's awesome.
Wow, I have a fairly new squirrel cage fan I kept from my old furnace when I had a new one put in. I remember thinking it would be good for something but kind of forgot about it and didnt really know what to do with it anyway. Thanks, this will be tomorrows project!
Awesome.
Building a new 40'x40' shop. Have two of these that are wired 110v and extention cord. Picked up two more that are 220v. These will be permanently mounted and on a breaker. Thanks for the information on putting load on the blower. I did not know that. Great video!
Very cool!
I have two of those, didn’t know why both only ran a couple of minutes and stopped, now I know. THANK YOU 🍻🇺🇸
We use a large version of one of these (easily twice the size the one in the video) when remodeling rooms in our house. Position it so that it's blowing outside through an open window and all of the demolition/drywall/plaster dust is evacuated in a heartbeat.
Thank you for getting right to the wiring and making it easy to understand.
Thanks, I just had my HVAC replaced in my home, and they temporarily left my old furnace/blower in my attic. I'm going up there to salvage the blower now!
13 years as a traffic signal technician where taped wires can be left in place for decades, literally. Scotch Super 88 was what we used for most if not all the years I was there.
33+ is awesome as well
I've used these as floor fans for years. Don't know why I didn't think of hanging in the rafters. Great idea! Love the multi direction tunes too!
It's nice to get it out of my way. Thanks.
I love those blowers. I installed one in an enclosed trailer when I needed it as a shop and it about blew me out of there. The best thing it did however was blow all the saw dust right out the back of the trailer. Great tutorial!
That sounds like a great application.
Fantastic. I finally got a minute to catch up on watching some vids. That 88tape is the same type I use. You get what you pay for and made in the USA! Crazy dog is back, yes!
Yep, Crazy dog never stops when the hose gets pulled out.
my dad and grandfather got a commercial fan like that from a building that was to be demolished in the 70s. After putting bigger bearings and a chain drive on it it was used as a pto driven leaf blower on our golf course. 24" fan with a 24x18" discharge. we had 60 acres lined with woods on 3 sides and had about 250 trees on the course. lots of leaves were moved with it and my dad still uses it to clear his yard in the fall.
Very neat!
You are da man. Racking my brain wondering why the blower won't work in a cooler for s..t. placed a restrictor on it and it works awesome. Thanks
I have three at home. One I set up for my shop. Thanks to your video you gave me some different ideas for the other two.
That is awesome!
Great video and information. I have a large one I'm making into an air quality/cleaner blower. I do woodworking projects and I'm getting ready to start the restoration on my 56 chevy in the same shop, so clean air is important. Thanks for the wiring help.
I have some small blowers I bought for around $50 each. One is a Stanley and another is a Lasko but they are essentially the same. They are great for moving air. They don't move as much as a furnace blower but we can easily keep it in our hall closet. We often take one on road trips for circulating air in the hotel room and drying swimsuits.
Those are nice units.
I changed to Scotch electrical tape a year or two ago. I don't care if it cost more. It works and is not frustrating to use. Squirrel cage fans are great. I have a small one that I use when working under a car. I use to live where there were to many mosquitoes. Drive you nuts without fans. It was even worse under a car. That fan would keep them off while working. Plus they can take being banged around and they don't tip over like a box fan.
Bug control... Good tip. Yeah, I will pay a little extra for tape that actually works. I threw away a dozen rolls of off brand stuff the first time I used the amazing Scotch tape.
I got one sitting in My garage for ten years now. I'm thinking of retrofitting a furnace filter in a box (cardboard, steel, plastic, etc..) with the blower to use as an air purifier. It would clean out the air in a large room in no time flat.
I wired mine up but needs assistance to start spinning, does this mean that I need a capacitor for it? Also, will a 370/440v capacitor work if I’m using 110v? Another great, helpful video as always. Thank you!
Informative as always.
I wish I could think outside the box ( fan ) more often. lol.
PaintSociety showed how to construct a cheap temporary spray booth and I think one of these might work.
Maybe too powerful? I'll keep it in mind for next year's paint projects.
On another note.
I won a running AutoTron 3300 at auction last week for $128 ( retail $2k ). Picking up after Thanksgiving.
I was shaping up to buy one of those $600+ jobbies from Amz too. Induction heater that is for rusty bolts.
This 3300 model can do more than that apparently - PDR, windshield and bedliner removal.
Always stay inquisitive you never know what you may learn!
i love the squirrel fan. i have a massive one that really blows the air actually to much air but I'm saving that for when i move and actually have a good size shop. As always great video my friend.
Thanks.
i have a tiny little one i picked up years ago and taped a metal tube to it, works great for livening up a fire.
My grandfather has had ONE for 12 years now. works great
They're great.
Love it man! I have one in my shop too. Made an air cleaner out of it. Just in a box with furnace filters on 3 sides, rolling on casters.
Love your vids!!
Very nice. For woodwork, correct?
sixtyfiveford yes
Thanks for sharing the wiring information ! Saves a lot of head scratching !
Thanks Bob.
I had one at my last shop when I lived on the bayou. man did that thing move some air. i need to get another for this shop.
They move a lot of air.
Great video, very informative. Thank you. I wasn't sure about wiring and you solved my question.
I have made 2 of these things so far. One for an air filter for wood working and another for when ever i get around to building a coal forge (this was a real small one out of a window AC unit).
Will eventually make another for a fumes fan for welding.
I've kicking around the fume extractor for quit a while now.
Yeah you just have to be careful you aren't sucking your shielding gas. The small one i pulled from a window ac would more than likely be plenty on medium setting.
Thanks for the video. Like you said, I was intimidated by all the wires. I have two of these in my shed I want to make fans out of to use at work.
I made one of those in 1995 and I've been using it ever since. even mounted it to a roll-around tool cart.
It's impressive how much air they can move.
I just had our furnace and air conditioner replaced and I salvaged the blower. I use that thing all the time to blow the airborne sawdust out of my wood shop to great effect. I just acquired a second one which will be used for drying things.
Awesome.
Hey 65, I miss all the stuff I used to get like that, just going out at night, garbage picking. That was a traditional rite of passage for tinkerers and other hoarder types like moi. Where I live, now, in northern PA, everything either goes in a pile and turns to rust because it is so wet and humid up here, or goes up to New York State for scrap. There are no entrepreneurs who like to turn junk into jewels, up here in these hills. Hey, I am a poet and didn`t know it.
Well said.
propeller fans compress air as well, just not nearly as much as a squirrel cage does. thanks for sharing this video, very useful!
True. Propellers need a proper clearance housing/shroud and they work well at compressing.
that's a capacitor run motor. cap start are black,round usually has a bleed resistor to drain the capacitance charge slowly. also keeps fom knock the beejesus outta in case you accidently touch it. bleed resistor also lengthens the capacitor and start relay contacts.
Yes, the larger generally 1/3,1/2,3/4hp units are all cap run. I've seen a few cap run in the smaller hp, but most aren't.
Do you think one of these squirrel fans (but enclosed, not like yours which is open on both sides) would work to collect fine metal dust collection?
An idea that has been around for a very long time. I have used them as
extractor motors when I am welding, brazing or even on a small scale
as a soldering station extractor. In my shop i have three of them with A/C
deflector to help spread the air around. Found and old commerical squirrel
cage that I use to extract air out of the ceiling which moves a lot of air.
They're handy for sure.
Thanks, I am going to make one of those fans and I didn't know about the air restriction glad I watched this before I made one. And yes the super 88 is the best I have found also.
I threw away at least a dozen rolls of cheap stuff I had laying around. I was so tired of using electrical tape that fell off after a day or so. Now I'll happily pay more for Super 88 or 33+ .
The best shop squirrel cage fan I had was from a server rack, It really moved some air quietly. Lost it after a move. There is an HVAC shop within sight of my house, time to stop by!
I had a huge one that was 4x the size of this little guy. It felt like your hand was going to get pulled in if you got to close.
Just what I wanted to see how to do! Thank you. Your video was just perfect A+.
Glad it was helpful!
I just learned why my blower turned shop fan cycles off and on. The motor is getting too hot, thanks for the education. I will add just a bit of intake restriction as you demonstrated.
I've had to block upwards of 75% of the one side on some to keep them cool.
these fans are designed to work in a box... like you’ll find them mounted in a furnace. in a box, some air will pass through both sides, cooling the motor. run wide open (unrestricted) on the input side and restrict the discharge side. adjust the discharge while watching a clamp ammeter- metering power consumption. you will hear the speed jump up when you hit the right amount of restriction, and the amps drawn will be at a low. the fan is now balanced for performance, which will ensure a longer life. remote the capacitor to the outside of the fan cabinet for easy service- the starting capacitor should crap out long before the fan motor.
Great video! I have a blower that I need to wire. It has the capacitor wires (brown). Do I have to use the capacitor when I wire a switch/cord in or can I abandon the brown wires?
You need the capacitor. It does two things: helps the motor start and then shifts the electrical phase so the motor runs smoothly.
Have one I've used in the shop for years and have it set up on a three foot stand which allows me to direct the air flow where I'm working .
Nice setup!
I learn something everytime I watch you... the wiring was very informative ...no I know .. in Quebec Canada they had there worst flood in a hundred years so they need to ventilate so this is great
Awesome info touching on exactly what I needed to know about wiring it up. I also learned something new with restricting to keep it running correctly. I’ll think about the dimmer switch too
Hey Thanks.
Scotch tape is great EXCEPT if it gets hot! I used scotch tape for years and was always glad to have it UNTIL I left some in my non AC garage. After a desert summer when I took some tape off the roll the adhesive had stuck itself on the tape underneath and had lost all of it's stick-to-it! I still have a few rolls in the house that are just fine, but a handful of new rolls out in my garage went belly up. Just a tip for those in hotter climates.
Good to know. It's held up better to heat than any other electrical tape I've tried. On a side note I recently started using TESA 50126 wire loom tape and it is great stuff for wrapping looms. It is a fabric tape and is high heat rated for under the hood use. The fabric doesn't allow the adhesive to melt off.
That fabric loom tape sounds great. The odd thing about the 3M scotch tape is that it seems to hold up pretty well under the hood even in the desert conditions, other brands the adhesive can go all goo-ie and come off the loom. I've more that once had to remove and replace tape like that off of looms and it was a greasy mess. BUT Scotch tape *on the roll* left out in the daily 110+ temps for a summer, not so good. Another funny thing, I have a couple of dollar store rolls of tape (precious to me now) that have lasted just fine for years out in the garage. The desert is a very harsh place
I use an old swamp cooler motor and cage. Same thing ....two speed also...swamp cooler on casters its about 3" off the floor...bucket of water in it and it works for a while....til the humidity rises to the point that evaporation has saturated the air....actually works better when doors windows are open.
It looked like one of those ocean snails, with the four air outlets. On a serious note, what a useful project. I hope I can find one free to make a stand alone blower.
Drive by some HVAC service shops and pop in. I've never had a place turn me down if they had them. You'll generally need a 5/16" and 1/4" nut driver or socket/ratchet and something to snip wires and they pop right out.
Straight to the point! I was NOT disapppointed you didn’t start out with 30 seconds of useless graphics and music!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I like the idea of putting hoses on there where you can direct the air in different ways. Seems to put out a lot of air.
It seams to work very well. I had an identical unit in the same spot last year but it just shot straight down. It was great for getting the Carb cleaner, paint, etc fumes out of my face if I stood directly under. It'll be nice to be able to stand almost anywhere and have fresh air.
Just what i was looking for. I just had my whole furnace replaced and I kept the old blower but it's 220, will it still work with a regular 110 plug?
Unfortunately no.
good video .. thank you for the share.. i have actually been thinking about mounting some under my house to pull some cooler air in and a project to play with geothermal but my restriction would be on the intake side.. i hope people share and try your ideas
this is what im trying to accomplish with my blower extractor mounted to the ceiling... However I cannot tell what the steps are for wiring the switch? It seems like you may have skipped a step..
I have a small black one from a bathroom vent I use by my bed and it works good.
Nice video in Arazona they use then as swamp coolers and they have water dripping into them to put moister back into the air. Dry hot in arazona.
Yeah, I use a swamp cooler up here in Utah.
that gives me an idea for a welding fume extractor! thanks Moe!
I've toyed around with this idea for a few years now. These have great suction through the side and could easily be adapted with flexible dryer hose to suck welding fumes.
exactly what i was thinking
The Moto fixery. marijuana exhaust fan
Great video! Next time I'll keep the fan complete and set up garage ventilation. I've pulled the motors out of several of these and have them sitting in my garage. What projects are good for these size/speed motors?
mdwdirect. something ive done is set up one to be set out on our back deck, it was used to blow away the bugs
These motors don't have great starting torque, but would work good for a bench grinder/polisher. Probably even be a descent sander motor.
That's what I thought. But when I asked an electrician friend about making a grinder he very adamantly said no way it won't work.
I'll just have to find out for myself. :-)
Ooh I like that idea!
On a side note, they will need a fan of sorts. Most motors have a basic cooling fan build in, these don't for obvious reasons. I would think a basic propeller fan made out of sheet metal on the shaft would suffice.
I watch how you make those four holes. What tool is that? It cuts the metal fast. Also I have a question, my wood/metal/plastic scroll 16" been unused for 15 years,
. I oil it and check it out. Not working!! I contact dremel company. They said no parts available since 2005. So I took it apart and the motor has 4 wires. White, yellow, red, and blue. If I want to wire it to white and black cord, to see if motor is good or not. Motherboard sitting next to it. I am not worried about the motherboard as I am not going to used them. Just the motor if it works. How do I wire them? What colors?
Ok,so would X amount of filters place in front of it provide the back pressure necessary? That way you get diffused clean air coming out of the filters and the motor gets the resistance it needs. The box fan/filter setups result in wild air currents stirring up god knows what in a dusty area you're trying to clean so eff that! What about it? Is a filter or five say in front of one of these a win win?
I had a neighbor give me one and I built a stand for it. I can't use DEET everyday so I use the power of the Hawaiian Islands - a steady wind. Mosquitos can't fly in that kind of wind. I can't find a good wiring diagram for it, and would have to take the motor out to read the one glued to it. There is no blue wire, it's white, black, dark green, orange, red, and brown. I have white and dark green hooked up, and it blows good, and thanks to your info about back pressure, it no longer overheats. I have to start it by hand because it doesn't have a capacitor. BTW - if I use the black, it creates gale force winds.
Awesome.
i think i'm going to put one of those on the vent in my attic to suck air through in the summertime to keep the house cooler
Great informative video glad I found it. Just squired one of these fans. The first one you showed had a variable speed dial. How can I hook that up w/ 4 speed wire set up? Thank you do you have another video that shows it
The variable speed(light dimmer) is just hooked in line with the power wire. I don't find it very useful and wouldn't go out of my way to do that again.
I'm known as the fan man I have so many different sizes. I have one that runs off a tractor it's 5'. I like the old ones that you can still oil the bearings.
I'm a big "fan" of the older ones that have oil ports for the bearings. It's pretty much the only thing that goes wrong with these motors.
Can you recommend a speed control switch or is it even worth the effort?
I have a fan that has red,black,orange wire can I make it work with 110 if yes how do I wire it up
On the side of the motor there will be a wiring diagram. It will tell you if it's 240 only or if it can be wired 120. And if so which wires go where.
this guy is fantastic every video as so much information...
Thanks Robert. -Moe
I have a blower with loads of wires coming out of it. I am going to have to see if it has a wiring diagram on the motor.
Should just have the standard wiring:
White: common to one side of the plug
-Speeds: (pick one for other side of your plug)
BLACK: HIGH
YELLOW: MEDIUM HIGH
BLUE: MEDIUM (medium low if Yellow is present)
RED: LOW
GREEN: GROUND(hook it anywhere on the metal body)
I'll have to give it another look. But As I can recall it has more than 6 wires coming out of it. Maybe not though? It has been a while since I've seen it.
might be an e.c.m motor
AWESOME TIP ON BLOCKING OFF A PORTION FOR COOLING IT GOOD JOB
Thanks Drew. -Moe
Just got one of these ... (larger) with an external, top-mount / belt-driven version ...
I tested it, in open-air, and after 5 minutes or so, it stopped. I was sure i burnt the motor, BUT, after reading the data, it says "thermally protected" soooooooo my thought was that wen it reaches a certain temperature, it switches off (logic)
10 minutes later, i heard a small "click" in the motor .... so i decided to re-plug it and start it again ... as expected, it ran ok, but i stopped it manually.
Question : If i build a housing (box) for mine with reduced intake area, will that PREVENT it from stopping randomly, as i would believe, the motor would be working less hard with more restriction applied to the wheel inside ?
Sorry for the long "question".
Yes you have to add some sort of restriction either on the intake or exhaust and the motor will work less hard and not thermally shut off
I have one I've used for years. I just saw on Facebook this evening where someone near me has a bunch of them for $10 each
Great idea, I need one of those in my shop, already 90 degrees here.
They're impressive for the size.
I've got an old 4 speed blower fan, either the motor is bad or I'm doing it wrong, I've got it hooked up to a single pole double throw on/off/on toggle switch for high and low speeds, the speeds are on load A and load B and one wire goes to the line side of the switch while the other goes to common, all the switch does is make or break the connection between either speed tap and one line wire, I'm not measuring any current flow to common when the switch is off, during my initial testing where I briefly ran the blower for less than a second on both speeds to ensure I wired it right I got a whiff of electrical smell and there was immediate heat coming from the motor windings, casing was still stone cold, didn't blow the ground fault or overcurrent protection and the motor didn't sound labored and sounded mostly normal, though the intake was completely blocked so it wasn't running completely right, motor hasn't run in at least 2 years, I don't think it's quite cooked yet given how little it was run, but if it is I can get a good used motor for free, as I know a guy who's got a literal pile of fans and motors from old furnaces he removed
Thanks for the information. I just picked up an old 110 blower w/capacitor furnace motor. I did not know about the restriction requirements so appreciate the important information. Thanks!!
Thanks, I'm glad the video was helpful.
How would you wire a 240V, single phase induction (has capacitor) blower motor? My wall plug runs to a dual gang breaker where one is on main bar and the other is on the opposite bar (panel is setup that way). Then at the outlet the 20 Amp socket only has two connections for the two hot leads ( red and black) then one for the copper ground (neutral is capped in the wall box).
If I continue the red and black from the socket using a mating 20 Amp plug, connecting 2 conductor wire with a ground wire, how would I attach those two wires at the end of the cord to the leads on the motor? There is a green connected to the casing, a black one that goes to the capacitor and on into the motor from the same capacitor terminal. From the other capacitor terminal there is a yellow wire disappearing into the motor. Then there are a red and a gray wire that connect to push terminal at the motor. All I see on the motor is a schematic showing those terminals (a third with no wire connected) are for High/Med/Low speeds.
I am use to wiring 120 circuits where the neutral completes the circuit back to the panel. Since no neutral wire is present, it seems like the black leading to the capacitor ought to connect to one of the wires from the wall to start the motor via the induction winding (then likely there is a centrifugal switch in the motor that switches it off), then the other wire from the wall would connect to whichever speed terminal is desired. The ground could connect any place on the casing or the squirrel cage...
My ignorance makes me wonder how either of the two wires from the wall will make a complete circuit so the winding create field and get the motor to work!! What knowledge am I missing? Are the two wires from the wall in opposite AC fluctuation and that makes it work even thought there is no completed circuit?
Thanks for any advice or resources to help me figure this out.
With a 240v circuit no ground/neutral is needed for the device to run. This is because they are two 120v that are exactly opposite phases. So when one leg is 120volts positive the other is 120volts negative and feed off of each other, switching 60 times a second.
@@sixtyfiveford So, there are three wires going to the old furnace circuitry - Black/Red/LtBlue. Since the red/ltblue are on terminals to provide two different speeds, should I just pick one of those and the black, which feeds the capacitor and then goes on to the motor winding, and connect them to my wall socket?
What baffles me is one would think you need a complete circuit somewhere for electrons to flow and generate the magnetic fields so the motor works... Am I still missing something? Thanks!
Post script:
I finally got the motor out of the housing and the bracket was covering part of the schematic! As I guessed, one power line to the black and one to the selected speed terminal! Off to wire a cord!!
@@ebachy Yes, black to one leg (L1) hot and choose the red or blue for the speed to the other hot leg(L2).
The electrons are flowing negative to positive. So when L1 is 120v-, the current is flowing from there into L2 which is 120v+ . Then is switches and the current flows the other way.
@@sixtyfiveford Oddly, I tried that, flipped on the circuit breaker, plugged in the cord and switched the double pole switch to "on" and...nothing. There was not even a buzz/hum of it trying to start. I can position my circuit check tool by all the wires and it beeps that there is live power. Maybe I should try eliminating the switch... As a refresher, if I were to be sure the capacitor is discharged, should the ohms 0 when testing between the two terminals when it is disconnected?
I am certain the blower motor worked when removed from the furnace many years ago...
I use electric dryer blower-motor and the heater element to use as a heating device in a schoolie.
I have 3 right now , you have to use a motor speed control because a light dimmer will not work with a motor also you can use a 3 way switch to give high and low
A rheostat isn't ideal for most motors as the load stays the same and reducing the speed puts more strain on the motor. A fan however reduces it's load compared to the speed. I've ran these for hours on end with rheostats.
I have been researching and designing a new way to clean the air in my shop and found your video. Thank you, great video. but I have questions-- will the rheostat burn the motor out? or would a motor speed controller work better over time for long run times. I like the idea of the rheostat over the speed controller because of $$$. Also can (how ) you hook up a temperature controller to it so it will come on at a certain temperature, like your rafter fan??? Kevin at whisperpineokie@yahoo.com
I was planing on building one of these with a 5 amp 4 position switch I pulled from a dead house fan, cost was "free." I later found out the purpose made switches arn't near as expensive as the motors. I bought a 25 AMP Rotary Switch 3 Speed 2 HP 4 position switch off eBay for $15USD. On my current blower low barley moves any air, so a high amp 3 position switch may do just fine for you if you do not need precise adjustment.
A quick Ebay search for "temperature controller switch 110v" yields lots of switches that turn on automatically when a set temperature is reached for less than $3. I don't know the first question except to offer a third choice, however your second question was easy to answer. I'd be interested to see what you devise. I'd be interested to see the finished unit with some explanation in a youtube video some time if you could respond to this comet with the link.
I presume you wire it 220 you will use less electricity. When you do that the white wire become a hot wire am I correct?
It will use the exact same amount of electricity either way. Not all motors can be wired for 240volt but they all have a wiring schematic on the side that will show you which wire goes where for a 120 or 240v operation.
hello there so I have one just like the big one you got there but it doesn't have the white cable it comes with 4 different cables
yellow
blue
red
black
and its grounded to the metal. so I plugged black power yellow neutral and green to ground but it doesn't run fast
You may need to pull the motor out so you can see the wiring schematic on the side. I'm thinking you have a 220/240 volt motor.
Great video. these blowers could also be modded for shop dust collector use, correct?
Yes. They create a lot of suction and would make a good dust collector.
Yes, they suck air in from the sides and push it out the square vent.
i have that exact fan blowing on me right now. .mine is a 3 speed cap start. running an ON-OFF-ON switch so i have a high and low speed.. low uses almost no power.. even my cat is laying in front of it.. i have been using it for over 20 years. i do zoom spout oil it once a year or two. whats interesting .. i don't have any restriction on the output and none on the sides either. and it seems to blow slightly cooler air that what it takes in.. i suppose that because the fan is pulling air in thru the side openings and slinging it out into the housing its not compressing the air and not building any heat.. its actually lowering the heat slightly.. i don't have a quality instrument to measure with. but on low.. its really quiet. only a few issues. the cat will put his paws in the open side and drag his claws on the blades. and one time i came home from work.. and the fan was thumping out of balance. the cat watching it go around and around.. i walked over and flipped it off expecting to find a sock or something as it came to a stop.. nope.. a freshly spun out mouse. guess the cat chased him and he jumped into the fan to escape..
i was thinking if you are going to use a wall switch.. how about a 3 way switch.. so you could have high or low.. or high and medium. it should work..
I had one years ago setup with a on-off-on switch. I only used it on high because it was in the garage. Finally I ended up salvaging the switch off of it for a testing device I made. It is definitely a good call for an indoor use fan.
I'm sure the mouse was a little dazed after that ride.
We took a meter and checked the amps it would draw. To my surprise when you blocked some of the iintake are, the amps dropped. It was fun tuning the fans to be efficient.
Yeah, it seams counter intuitive.
I wired it white to white and Black to black. Nothing happen. This one does have a capacitor on it. Could it be bad or do I have to re- wire it also? Thanks
3m super 33 hell yeah the best of the best amen. Three passes makes it waterproof and is exactly what well drillers use to submerged under water w 3 passes of super 33
Nothing is better than realizing there is good electrical tape. I remember wrapping complete wire looms in my truck only to have the cheap stuff slime off a month later.
Nice
just got 3 of them
Didnt no none of that
Thanks for the infor👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I've done two of these myself. Highly recommend
I've been very pleased with mine for the past 15 years.
I made one of these and really like it.
AWESOME. They move a ton of air.
I'm personally preferring blowers from Evap Coolers as their motor can be separated from the air stream and therefore less likely to explode when sucking flammable fumes like spray paints
can white be any side on the outlet going to wall so any wire from wall to white common and the left over to any of the 3 speed wires???
Yes it will work this way. On the wall the Fatter outlet hole(one on the left) is the White/common/neutral wire. The skinnier one is the HOT lead. Pick only 1 of the 3 leads for motor speed and connect it to this side. Don't let the other two touch each other or anything, just isolate them with electrical tape/wire nuts.
Is there a video on how to wire the fan using the dimmer switch?
It just cuts the hot wire.
ok i have a very important question that i hope you can answer. that fan of yours with the dimmer switch. how do you wire that up? do you have a video showing how or could you make a video showing how?