First video that covers the actual mechanicals and electronics, great! Just dusting off my Hozelock 2700 AC Plus timer and giving it a test for summer. It's about 7 years old and seems to have lasted, then again it only comes out for travels. Despite some criticisms I've read about Hozeloc, I've found that my Hozelock bits and bobs outlast other brands of water connectors etc.
Terry, a very good and detailed Video. My main problem was how to get it open I needed a wood chisel to brise it open. Fortunately I did not throw mine away and now I can try to fix them. Thanks a lot!
Hi Terry, great video thanks. I struggled previously to open the case, but was levering the wrong groove! On mine, the positive terminal for the C battery is broken (corrosion due to a leak!). Do you know where I can get a replacement terminal please? I have still got the broken tab. If I can fix it, I'll also add the Oring, silicon grease fixes. Many thanks
Really useful, my AC1 is mostly identical, however the clip holding the inlet, spring, diaphragm in place did not exist, the assembly was held in by two rods behind the inlet knob which push out with a small Allen key.
Hi David, no easy answer I'm afraid. Ebay possible may have something or fashion a clip using tin plate from a can. It might even be possible to use aluminium foil packing!
Excellent video Terry A question that you may be able to answer, I have the Hozelock ACPro which is the electronic version of the timer that you repaired. There is no internal leak but when the valve is supposed to be closed, water still dribbles through. I assume that the disassembly will be very similar to that shown, but before I start, do you have any thoughts on how to stop water from passing through the unit when it is supposed to be closed? Is it the ball valve or the diaphragm or the spring? It seems a shame to bin it!
Many thanks for kind comment. Like you I would guess the mechanics of the AC Pro will be similar to the AC Plus. I would suggest there is either some excess wear on the ball valve, the diaphragm seat or both or there is a bit of debris such as a piece of scale possibly from the feed pipe that has worked its way in. I don't think it will be the spring - very unlikely it has broken. A leak around the perimeter of the diaphragm seat is also a remote possibility. Nothing lost in taking it apart. Any feedback on what you find appreciated.
@@terrywhitstable thank you Terry and thanks for your thoughts. I have started to take it apart but after taking off the front cover with a knife (as you suggested, easy), I found that the ACPro display as now revealed, is securely glued on with the intention that it is water tight and should never (ever) be removed (ever)! I have nothing to lose, so I will find a way of cutting it off and let you know how I get on...
I finally had a go at the “leaking” AC Pro. Was it worthwhile? Time will tell, but I would not have started without Terry’s video, so thanks. Behind the plastic font cover of the AC Pro is an acrylic “screen”. The plastic font cover comes off easily, as Terry describes, but I thought that the acrylic screen which holds the electronics needed more care. So, I sawed it off with a fine-tooth hacksaw! The idea being that any other method, using force, is likely to crack the acrylic. I thought that if successful I should be able to “glue” it back together with silicone sealant. The disassembly from there on was similar enough to Terry’s timer, but one of the black lugs (that Terry describes) that separate the internal black gear assembly from the base just would not pull through its slot and eventually broke off (damn). But the assembly eventually clicked back together with no apparent problem, i.e. it all works! I might be wrong but I think the tab would only go one way as it was wider than the slot. After disassembly and inspection, I could not identify the problem, surely it could not be wear, as these domestic timers do not get enough use. So, I packed it with plenty of grease. Unfortunately, I did not have any silicone grease and used some 40 year old car grease, instead. This will not do the rubbers any good, but I do nor expect this unit to last that long! Before sticking the screen and the front back on with the silicone sealant, I tested it by sticking the battery's back in. I closed the valve and with my mouth blew through from the “tap” end. Disappointingly, a little bit of air did go through the unit but before discarding it all, I suspected that screwing it onto a tap may apply more force to the spring. And it was so - success! No steady stream and not even a drip. But I do not give myself too many guarantees that this will last even a week of cycles. We will see… Many thanks Terry
@@lionelwiseman5854 Hi Lionel, Really glad you had success after all your efforts. Keep posted as to how your repair works out. There is a great satisfaction in repairing things that otherwise would be thrown away - all but lost in this throw-away age! Best Terrry
Thanks for the great video. I have the same model and it is leaking when closed. When i took it apart i saw that there was no spring on the diaphragm. Can this cause the leaking due to lack of pressure of the diaphragm to the valve? I searched online for a spring or a new diaphragm but couldn't find any of them. Can you give me the spring dimensions? (cause i think that the diaphragm is ok)
If the spring is missing then the unit will certainly leak it is an essential component. How come the spring went missing? Someone must of tampered with it previously. Don't have the spring to hand but guess you can estimate its size from the size of the hoselock connection shown in the video.
Just what I was looking for. took it apart and reassembled. A joy when the motor worked. Thanks.
First video that covers the actual mechanicals and electronics, great! Just dusting off my Hozelock 2700 AC Plus timer and giving it a test for summer. It's about 7 years old and seems to have lasted, then again it only comes out for travels. Despite some criticisms I've read about Hozeloc, I've found that my Hozelock bits and bobs outlast other brands of water connectors etc.
Terry, a very good and detailed Video. My main problem was how to get it open I needed a wood chisel to brise it open. Fortunately I did not throw mine away and now I can try to fix them. Thanks a lot!
What a wonderfully clear video. I only hope I don't need to take mine apart but if I do, your instructions should enable me to sort it out. Thank you.
Hi Peter, thanks for kind comment!!!
excellent clear video, thanks for posting it
Hi Terry, great video thanks. I struggled previously to open the case, but was levering the wrong groove! On mine, the positive terminal for the C battery is broken (corrosion due to a leak!). Do you know where I can get a replacement terminal please? I have still got the broken tab. If I can fix it, I'll also add the Oring, silicon grease fixes. Many thanks
Really useful, my AC1 is mostly identical, however the clip holding the inlet, spring, diaphragm in place did not exist, the assembly was held in by two rods behind the inlet knob which push out with a small Allen key.
Thanks for the video. 👍
Great hints
Hi David, no easy answer I'm afraid. Ebay possible may have something or fashion a clip using tin plate from a can. It might even be possible to use aluminium foil packing!
Excellent video Terry
A question that you may be able to answer, I have the Hozelock ACPro which is the electronic version of the timer that you repaired. There is no internal leak but when the valve is supposed to be closed, water still dribbles through. I assume that the disassembly will be very similar to that shown, but before I start, do you have any thoughts on how to stop water from passing through the unit when it is supposed to be closed? Is it the ball valve or the diaphragm or the spring? It seems a shame to bin it!
Many thanks for kind comment. Like you I would guess the mechanics of the AC Pro will be similar to the AC Plus. I would suggest there is either some excess wear on the ball valve, the diaphragm seat or both or there is a bit of debris such as a piece of scale possibly from the feed pipe that has worked its way in. I don't think it will be the spring - very unlikely it has broken. A leak around the perimeter of the diaphragm seat is also a remote possibility. Nothing lost in taking it apart. Any feedback on what you find appreciated.
@@terrywhitstable thank you Terry and thanks for your thoughts. I have started to take it apart but after taking off the front cover with a knife (as you suggested, easy), I found that the ACPro display as now revealed, is securely glued on with the intention that it is water tight and should never (ever) be removed (ever)! I have nothing to lose, so I will find a way of cutting it off and let you know how I get on...
I finally had a go at the “leaking” AC Pro.
Was it worthwhile? Time will tell, but I would not have started without Terry’s video, so thanks.
Behind the plastic font cover of the AC Pro is an acrylic “screen”. The plastic font cover comes off easily, as Terry describes, but I thought that the acrylic screen which holds the electronics needed more care. So, I sawed it off with a fine-tooth hacksaw! The idea being that any other method, using force, is likely to crack the acrylic. I thought that if successful I should be able to “glue” it back together with silicone sealant.
The disassembly from there on was similar enough to Terry’s timer, but one of the black lugs (that Terry describes) that separate the internal black gear assembly from the base just would not pull through its slot and eventually broke off (damn). But the assembly eventually clicked back together with no apparent problem, i.e. it all works! I might be wrong but I think the tab would only go one way as it was wider than the slot.
After disassembly and inspection, I could not identify the problem, surely it could not be wear, as these domestic timers do not get enough use. So, I packed it with plenty of grease. Unfortunately, I did not have any silicone grease and used some 40 year old car grease, instead. This will not do the rubbers any good, but I do nor expect this unit to last that long!
Before sticking the screen and the front back on with the silicone sealant, I tested it by sticking the battery's back in. I closed the valve and with my mouth blew through from the “tap” end. Disappointingly, a little bit of air did go through the unit but before discarding it all, I suspected that screwing it onto a tap may apply more force to the spring.
And it was so - success! No steady stream and not even a drip. But I do not give myself too many guarantees that this will last even a week of cycles. We will see…
Many thanks Terry
@@lionelwiseman5854 Hi Lionel, Really glad you had success after all your efforts. Keep posted as to how your repair works out. There is a great satisfaction in repairing things that otherwise would be thrown away - all but lost in this throw-away age! Best Terrry
Thanks for the great video. I have the same model and it is leaking when closed. When i took it apart i saw that there was no spring on the diaphragm. Can this cause the leaking due to lack of pressure of the diaphragm to the valve? I searched online for a spring or a new diaphragm but couldn't find any of them. Can you give me the spring dimensions? (cause i think that the diaphragm is ok)
If the spring is missing then the unit will certainly leak it is an essential component. How come the spring went missing? Someone must of tampered with it previously.
Don't have the spring to hand but guess you can estimate its size from the size of the hoselock connection shown in the video.
@@terrywhitstable ok thanks for the quick response
Hi, can you remember what size O-Ring is needed?
It's shown at the end of the video. 2mm dia cross-section, 6mm internal dia.