Traditional Oak Casement Window Build - Part 1: Drawing
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In this series of videos I go into comprehensive detail on how to make a traditional casement window frame and inner casement. Following this series I am confident anyone with similar machinery or suitable alternatives could make a window such as this. It's a long series but hopefully comprehensive! (probably boring)
In part 1 we are looking at cross section drawings and producing a cutting list/order from the drawing.
Please remember to Thank Mark for allowing this to be shared and I hope the series helps at least someone!!!
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Hands down the best joinery channel on youtube! Thank you to whoever commissioned these videos
Cheers Lotus! Far from the best, some talented folk about, but thankyou :D
Wow that was in depth, you can tell your training as been very thorough, looking forward to the build
Thanks Paul, Should be quite a comprehensive series. I didnt get to finish the window as supplied unassembled but will carry it on at some pint with another window
Thank you both! Thank you for the buyer for allowing us to see this.
Our pleasure Alex
Great comprehensive set of videos much appreciated.
Cheers Jeff! Glad they are of help
Watching this and it's super useful. Very generous of Mark; thank you.
Thankyou!
Your videos are never boring.It's very well made,essential,and educational.Thank you very much,i'm sending you my best wishes !!!
Thanks Ianis, Glad they are of some help :)
@@BradshawJoinery not just some,these are the best series i've ever seen 😍 😍 😍
Thanks man 🤟😎🤙
@@BradshawJoinery actually,now i'm watching another beautiful video of you.Cheers mate !!!😊 😊 😊 😊 ua-cam.com/video/hBNru44S7UA/v-deo.html
Thankyou mr bradshaw and mystery patron
Cheers Bruce! Assume the videos have been helpful?
Great Video. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain your design.
Thanks again Andy!
Brilliant idea. I don't normally make Windows as I'm not really set up for it but I have a job that weirdly wants Oak Windows. Thanks for the video. 👍
Niice! There is 10 Parts and releasing 2 each week :)
Fantastic Video. I have learnt so much. Many thanks.
Andy thats very generous, thankyou so much! :)
Thanks for another useful, informative video. Really looking forward to the actual build/construction video. Also interested to see what finish you use on oak.
Didnt get that far Ian, but would probably opt for a base stain like Sikkens HLS then Osmo UV Oil ontop. Regular maintenance (every 2 years) of the uv oil will see them well. (its easier than paint maintanace)
Thank you to whoever commissioned these videos, Would be nice to have the CAD files to work with Fusion 360
Another tremendously informative and well made piece. Thank you and big thumbs up to the sponsor for allowing it to be shown. BTW have you ever made a follow up piece on making sash boxes and the installation of boxes and windows?
Thankyou Max. The sashes I made in the videos are still sat in my workshop 🤣. They are for my parents house and I will film the box repair and installation when I do them. (Probably not very soon)
Fantastic video, many thanks to you and the guy who commissioned this. Looking forward to finding the time to watch the series!
I have a question - near the start, you say that if making in accoya (as I plan to do) then you would make it internally glazed rather than external. May I ask why this is? If there are any other significant differences to know about, I'd be very grateful to hear your thoughts. Many thanks!
I believe Internally glazed is neater, and better for sealing the unit in, and also makes replacing the unit a lot simpler and cleaner. Im just not keen on timbers that will move as i dont think the seal will last.
This is absolutely brilliant! The only place on the Internet that I've managed to find this sort of detail for window construction. Thanks so much for uploading this, and to your client of course.
I'm in the process of making oak casement windows for a tiny house on wheels, so they're a bit lighter weight than this (smaller sections), but I'm making what I think are called "stormproof" casements, i.e. half rebated into the frame. I've seen "stormproof" hinges, but have no idea how to install them; would there be any chance of you posting a video on how to do that?
Thankyou Mr Cheese! I will make a note of it and try to do a short video. i assume you have pivot pin type stormproof hinges and not friction hinges? they need chopping into the lip that is left on the opening casement by the thickness of the 2 leaves so it brings that lip flush with the face of the frame and then attaching the the frame without chopping in.
Great start, thanks for doing the video. Funny coincidence, I'm just about to start filming a video using my new Whitehill block for making some simple windows! Psyched to see the next one.
Cheers Buddy!!! How was the delivery of Whitehill!? Exciting!
I haven't had a chance to play with....I mean USE....it yet. Should have had them drop it off at your place for a week or so first so you could have a go at it.
Haha,what is it then? A new system? I guess I'll find out when you do the video
@@BradshawJoinery I think they've had it for a while: whitehill.tools/catalogue/#page=91
@@BradshawJoinery Let's you do a couple of steps in one pass through the spindle. Rebate plus seal groove plus Euro groove all at the same time. Very practical I think. Can also be used as a very nice Z4 rebate block!
Great video thanks for posting....whats the software you're using?
SketchUp pro 👍
@@BradshawJoinery thank you for responding
This series is great! Giving me the confidence to try to make my own windows. I also want to make an inward opening French door for a 1m x 210cm opening. Space in the room is very limited, which is why I want to go this route. It's also a 1st floor room, so the doors can't open outwards as it needs a railing on the outside. Would the process for making inward opening casements be similar to this but just installing them backwards?
Why is oak glazed differently to accoya wood? I really would like to know why one is internal the other external glazed. Thx
The movement in oak cannot be trusted, if the beads and timber move in time the glass can be re sealed with new beading if necessary
Amazing detail. I presume you did the sketchup drawings yourself or are there some available to download and amend? I am thinking about doing wooden windows in portugal which of course are inward opening... That rather changes everything!
I did them myself, im not sure what state they are in as to wether they are worth sharing!
Hi how much would it cost to buy a oak window of that size from a joinery like your self please just a ball part figure many thank keep up the great vids
Depends on level of finish, factory finish sprayed and glazed there wouldnt be much change from a £1000 (depending on quantity ordered) but there are lots of factors like quality of materials used, ironmongery, technical details on the window. You cannot really compare 2 joinery companies windows, you have to see what you are getting vs the price and make your mind up. Ive seen all too often a cheaper joinery price actually work out more expensive in the end, and for a worse product. Sometimes the guy going above and beyond, offering the whole process and being clear with the overall cost is much better option.
Hi I’ve been advised that I have to fit a dummy casement window as a replacement in my listed house. I think I understand what a casement window is , but what is a dummy casement ?
Dummy casement could be a casement screwed into place so it doesnt open or a direct glazed piece of glass connected to a adjoining opening casement by a piece of fixed casement section. Depending on the persons view of what a dummy casement is. If its got to be replaced like for like just look at whats there?
Maybe i missed it, but what is the purpose of the 8 mm semicircle all around the sash?
Why is there one above the sash?
Why is there one under the sill towards the outside edge?
It's an anti capillary groove. Stops the water tracking back under a horizontal surface or between two close fitting items. The water will stop at the groove and then rin/drip away instead of travelling into/under the window
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for the answer. It totally makes sense now.
I hope you don't mind if i ask one more question.
Why is the outside 17 mm glazing bead split into two and what holds it onto the sash (once the thermopane is in)?
The bead isn't in two, I assume you mean the 2mm section and the 15mm section? The 2mm part is a foam tape, the beads are stuck in place with the foam tape and then fixed using stainless steel pins.
@@BradshawJoinery I'm sorry I meant 15 mm . What is the line going down the middle (approximately) of the bead?
Hi, thank you for this video, I really like this project but I would prefer to have window leaf more narrow. Is it good idea to make it 60mm instead of 80mm? Would be it still strong enough? Can be spruce or pine wood used instead oak ? Thank you
by leaf do you mean the frame? or the bottom rail. you can technically achieve any size you wish!
@@BradshawJoinery thanks, yes, I meaned bottom rail.
Hi, what cad package did you use please?
HI Allan, its Google Sketchup, there is a free version called sketchup make and you want the downloadable program not the web browser based one. I think sketchup 2017 is the downloadable one
@@BradshawJoinery thanks, I use auto cad at the moment because I get it free but when I retire I will change to sketch up. Your videos are great even though I am a joiner I enjoy seeing another craftsman’s techniques , thanks for your efforts.
What system do you use for your drawings
Google SketchUp, make is the free version and what I used here. It's brilliant. Use the download version not the web browser based one
@@BradshawJoinery thanks maybe you should do a video on that?
Keep busy I have just gone back to working for myself best thing I've done in ages
I may do, there are quite a few people doing SketchUp tutorials. But equally not everyone likes every teacher so I may do some introductory ones.
Drip grooves on the sill, yes. Drip grooves on the sides and top ? What the hell do you think that's going to achieve ? And that huge gap at the bottom edge of the frame instead of matching the sill angle ?
I think you guys are trying to re invent the wheel.
Mind you most modern joinery shops are. Incompetent management is largely to blame and the guy in the drawing office usually doesn't have any practical experience to draw from.
I gave us using those rebate seals. They really don't last very long and in truth they are used to compensate for lousy machining most of the time.
Trouble is nobody goes to the effort of through mortising anymore. They cheat to save time and the result is weak frames that rely on glue. Glue never lasts in exterior exposures long.
And another thing, bullnosing the edges to hide the steps in width !
Come on. That's creating a perfect ingress for water damage. Sloppy.
Double glazing is heavy yet joinery shops are cheating on the joinery to save money ! That silicone won't hold the frame square forever lads and once it gives way those frames will sag and jam. You know it, I know it.
The drip groove around the sides is actually an anti capillary groove and is present in very old joinery. Caplilliary action is a problem even on the vertical sides of casements in heavy rain.
The big gap under the casement not matching the Bevel works much better. You need atleast 10mm gap to stop heavy water pooling under a casement and this provides that solution without a huge rebate. It also looks really good. Better to my eye as tight gaps on exterior joinery is old thinking and causes trouble. Look at any bevel matched bottom rail I bet there is staining from where water has pooled under the front of the sash. Unless the gap is over 10mm. I guarantee it infact. Leads to earlier water ingress if water pools at any point. The bigger gap also means that point is better ventilation and it'll dry out quicker after rain too.
I'm not sure what your sealing joinery with but a weather seal is needed. Also not sure on the bullnose part, was it something in this video? If you add a time in in this format 12:34 it will allow me to click it and go straight to it.
I agree large company joinery is going downhill but there is not problem with the design here. I've used this for many years without fail.
@@BradshawJoinery
The biggest problem with far to many modern builds is setting the windows flush with or only slightly setback from the exterior wall.
If your using traditional hinges, drip grooves are not appropriate.
The problem with rot damage usually only occurs using cheap pine and acrylic/ synthetic paints and sealers that don't breathe.
The lack of protective eaves on modern houses means that driven rain is not held back by a pressure curtain of air. Joinery has devolved because building practice is driven by bad architects and shonky primary contractor's.
There is no excuse for not using through wedged mortise and tenon joinery on windows and door's. Relying on glue, pins and cramps means you cannot rack the joint's to get rid of twist at glue up. The truth is joinery shops don't want to pay a guy to trim and fit frames to jams accurately with a shoulder plane, even though a skilled craftsman can do it very quickly. Four sided moulders rarely if ever get stock straight enough so joint accuracy suffers and they take up the slack with weather sealing strip's that crap out after a few years as the internal foam core degrades.
The water gets trapped in the retaining groove and it weakens the rebate too.
Yes, capillary action is a pain and cannot be completely avoided but quality materials and construction avoids it becoming a serious issue.
I use marine oil based paints and primers and only exterior grade 1 timbers.