Thank you for explaining this in simple terms. I have been shooting the point blank method for more than 30 years. I have tried to explain this to friends and family members and failed miserably, some of my conversations have turned into very mild disagreements. I run into the same mindset over and over again that individual’s don’t understand this method and as a result are not using their firearm to it’s potential while hunting big game. To many try to figure hold under or hold over when making their shots resulting in a miss at what they are shooting at. Well done!!!
I, am 65 years old. I have hunted for over 50 of those. In all those years, I have never heard anyone explain that anywhere near as good as you did, no matter how much time they took. good job!
Ive always been told the 50 yd zero was the best for a law enforcement patrol rifle but was never explained why. This video really put it in perspective. Great job Jeff.
Finally, a true expert that starts with Target Size otherwise known as Vital Area and Scope HOB. The Danger Space is the distance the bullet travels within the target size. I describe it as the distance a bullet would enter a pipe and exit without hitting the sides. The Danger Space for a typical 5.56 or 7.62 is approximately 300 yards with a 200 yd zero and 3 inch HOB.. Thanks so much. Shoot and figure it out than print out and laminate a Range Card.
This is explained as good or better than I've ever seen - well done. I'm an old 4th award rifle expert in the Corps and admit to not really understanding point blank range. Now I've got to figure out PBR for a 45-70. ;)
Jeff is exactly correct in stating that you must know your target first or set your target size first. Example: if you are hunting deer and want a 4" target then your point blank range will be the range from zero yard to xx yards that will guarantee every shot will be inside the 4" circle (not counting wind drift) when the crosshairs are on the center of the circle when the guns trigger is activated. A mans head is approx 8" in diameter.
Thanks for the clear, simple explanation. I've used the 50yd/200yd (5.56) method since 200yds is close to the max I would need but I can still do holdovers if needed. For 300AAC I use a 75yd zero and adjust hold from there. It's used mostly for closer in hunting. I use a variety of optics but all my zeros are the same so whatever I pick up I know what to expect. Count me as a new subscriber.
Excellent video and excellent information. Easy to understand. For most shooters any zero will work (ie ... 25, 50, 100, 200, etc...) However, once you have chosen your zero, then you should actually go out and shoot a lot of rounds, at different distances, to get comfortable with your choice. Too many new shoots think that once they have a zero it means they can hit any target at any distance without any other thought. Hold-over and hold-under will come into play at some point and this is what you need to be familiar with. There is no "magic" zero. Set a zero, practice with it (a lot) and get familiar with judging the distance to your target.
I always sight my 270 Winchester 3-31/2 inches high at 100 yards with a 130 grain bullet, puts it 4 inches high at 200 yards, back on target 325, 9 inches low at 400, 25 inches low at 500
@@TridentConcepts think you mean "better" and I was just asking so we could see the full length of the true point blank and get a better picture of what is happening that's all. Why don't you just guesstimate it and add it to your video. So then you might state the average "point blank range" for a .308 at a 6" target is some 400 yds. That's all.
I hunt at 50 to 100 yd mostly, with a 30-06 for moose. I have a stand overlooking a field at 250 yd with 900 ft field of view, 70 ft elevation. 300 win mag
@@TridentConcepts my area in Alaska has a lottery and is not very well used. A few years ago, fish and game approached me and asked if I had noticed a lot of browsing. The area along our roads looked like a bulldozer had been through. I told them about what I had seen and they had counted a large number of moose, higher than usual. They complimented my community in a large meeting thanking us for our conservation efforts (we've been clearing lands of invasive trees and replacing these areas with willow, Alaskan Alder and birch since 1990). The population was so large we've be allowed to take "Any" moose for 2 years. This is in the Beluga/Tyonek area on the west side of Cook Inlet. Part of conservation was introducing a specially hunt for the "Wounded Warriors" program. We set up stands with ramp access and brought in bowhunters, handgun and rifle hunters. It was a 4 year project and we now will be doing a moose hunt this next year. If someone wants a successful moose hunt check in Alaska fish and game website and register for a game ticket.
Any wind will influence the bullet's flight path. A 5.56mm at the ranges we are talking about is way less of an influencer over the shooter's & equipment's capability.
Yes, however that is a dynamic inquiry. There are too many undefined variables in your question to be able to give you a good answer. Cartridge load and temperature, ballistic coefficient, velocity, l/r barrel twist and ratio, atmospheric composition, amplitude and vector of wind, angle of departure, relationship of final firing position zenith to that of target etc, etc, etc.. In most cases though if you're engaging a sub-thousand yard target these effects will compound to a negligible sum. If you're hunting deer you're probably fine. If you're hunting squirrels past a thousand yard then you're going to want to investigate the physics of fluid dynamics in regards to ballistics. Specifically, the magnus effect. Good luck.
If you are selecting a zero for a specific type of weapon, a specific mission, specific hunt, etc... then consider your potential target and engagement range. For example, with a SBR, you probably shouldn't choose a 300m zero. If you are using a short barrel rifle then you probably expect to engage targets at 100m and under, so set your zero accordingly. Then go out an practice with the zero you have chosen. Take multiple shots at 25, 50, 75, 100, 200, etc... make notes of your hold over or hold under so if you ever need to use that weapon you will not be surprised when you shots are 2" low up close.
And what happens when target distance could be anything within capabilities of M4. Here’s an idea use the 25- 300 meter zero and you have a bullet drop compensation function to 600 meters from as issued sights plus out to 350 meters bullet will not be more than 10 inches high or 10 inches low from point of aim.
@@TridentConceptswhat point? Fact is the 300 meter zero is synonymous with point blank when shooting Mk262 from M4 or A4. And if it’s not point blank enough for short distance take 3 MOA down.
@@charlesludwig9173 The 300m zero is the worst zero you can obtain. It is pitiful at anything outside of 300m. The fact there are incredibly few ranges that actually go out to 300m is a major issue. Attempting to simulate a 300m at any other distance than 300m is not a 300m. That fact is undisputed. If you zero it 25m and pretend it works that's one thing. Seeing it in practical use is something completely different. Most shooters have difficulty shooting to at least a 2" group at 50 yards (4MOA) and you expect them to shoot better than that at 300m. Nothing but jokes...
@@TridentConceptsu do not have a clue about the 300 meter zero trajectory from an M4 or M16A4. And, good hits on the E type target are easy at 300 from irons when the shooter has had some training about sight alignment and trigger control.
@@charlesludwig9173 Your statement is hilarious, but I guess I shouldn't expect much. I give you a level of precision and you come back with the E type silhouette as your justification. I'm literally going to be teaching a unit level Mid Range Rifle class where we shoot out to 500 yards and you want to argue with me I haven't a clue. The hit ratios in this class more than speak for themselves. But, you go on with your bad self🤣🤣🤣
25 yard zero 480 yards is the next intersection zero approximately on a 223 5.56. 100 yards 6inches high Basically a center dead center human target is a hit every time out to 500 yards
@@TridentConcepts cos they don't know their hold over and can't properly judge range withing 5 yards like us Native American Indians. Go up to the mountain and get right brother. LMAO.
Big Thumb Up, Jeff. You have simplified what can quickly evolve into a Graduate Course Level discussion. Is the goal to engage your target with a kill shot? Or, to punch a hole into a piece of paper? Oh, yea. I'm a retired Army Infantryman, Vietnam-Era.
There's a lot more that goes into a really good zero but this is a great primer. I'd love to see a video on doing calculations by hand with a simple and more complex formula. Calculators are nice and all but doing the math on paper is better for fine tuning.
This video is to help folks better understand a "maximum point blank range". If I have to help them with calculators or even math, it defeats the purpose.
Hey Jeff, quick question. While researching zeros for a 14.5inch barrel I came across a 40/250 yard zero. What struck me was the total vertical deviation was 7inches out to 300 yards with a max ordinate of 3 inches around 150 yards and 4 inches low at 300. Have you heard of this zero? What would be your opinion of this zero sir?
@Paul M you sure it wasn't 36? We use a 36/300 yard zero in the Corps. Rises to about 4.5 above line of sight at 175 but is dead nuts with a 20in barrel, about an inch low from a 16in and about 2.5-3 low from a 14.5.
I think for us normal folks and if you're around any type of city or even in the country a 50 /200 yard zero is perfect. If you're in Afghanistan or you have a really long distances perhaps the 25 /300 is better
Nah this is better. Go plug in your data in a ballistics app and what your zero is for PBR. The only time you will have hold high inside of 50 yards. 50 to about 200 ish is PBR. Easier to remember. Shoot high close range.
36 yard zero is the sweet spot for real world applications. Tried tested and proven. In reality there is no perfect zero, it should be adapted per application, if I’m door kicking with a red dot why do I need a 200 yard zero? I don’t. If your working in country on terrain that has visual engagement distances above 300 yards then I’m changing my optic for say an Acog and zeroing my rifle at 100-200 yards. Same terrain below 300 then it’s a holo sight or acog at 36. You can dick about with bullet weight math, barrel length and ballistic coefficients all day long, but in the heat of the moment you ain’t think about any of that crap. Setup for your application and intended use and move on.
There is no such thing, you either have one or the other. The fact you may see your projectile bisect at a certain distance dose not equate to an actual zero. People learn then in class or when actually firing from these ranges.
Let's just forget about a bullet for a minute. Shoot a bow and arrow that is sighted in for thirty yards and tell me that the arrow never rises above your line of sight! Look, I'm just a Navy man but I understand the mechanics of a sighting device and it sounds like you are lost in a mathmatical equation. Lol
Think of it in another way. The arrow is dropping vertically once it's released. The only way it can acquire its target is via an arch. No matter how minuscule or visible.
@@MikeNaples what you aren't getting is that the line of sight is not the same as trajectory. This is the reason there are two zeros in a trajectory for any caliber or arrow. The line of sight crosses the trajectory twice.
Thank you for explaining this in simple terms. I have been shooting the point blank method for more than 30 years. I have tried to explain this to friends and family members and failed miserably, some of my conversations have turned into very mild disagreements. I run into the same mindset over and over again that individual’s don’t understand this method and as a result are not using their firearm to it’s potential while hunting big game. To many try to figure hold under or hold over when making their shots resulting in a miss at what they are shooting at. Well done!!!
I, am 65 years old. I have hunted for over 50 of those. In all those years, I have never heard anyone explain that anywhere near as good as you did, no matter how much time they took. good job!
Thanks for the kind words and feedback. I'm really glad that was helpful. Have a good one.
Ive always been told the 50 yd zero was the best for a law enforcement patrol rifle but was never explained why. This video really put it in perspective. Great job Jeff.
Finally, a true expert that starts with Target Size otherwise known as Vital Area and Scope HOB. The Danger Space is the distance the bullet travels within the target size. I describe it as the distance a bullet would enter a pipe and exit without hitting the sides. The Danger Space for a typical 5.56 or 7.62 is approximately 300 yards with a 200 yd zero and 3 inch HOB.. Thanks so much. Shoot and figure it out than print out and laminate a Range Card.
This is explained as good or better than I've ever seen - well done. I'm an old 4th award rifle expert in the Corps and admit to not really understanding point blank range. Now I've got to figure out PBR for a 45-70. ;)
Haha, can't really help you there, but glad the video helped with the M4. Good luck.
Jeff is exactly correct in stating that you must know your target first or set your target size first. Example: if you are hunting deer and want a 4" target then your point blank range will be the range from zero yard to xx yards that will guarantee every shot will be inside the 4" circle (not counting wind drift) when the crosshairs are on the center of the circle when the guns trigger is activated. A mans head is approx 8" in diameter.
My left ear thanks you.
lol😂
Thanks for the clear, simple explanation. I've used the 50yd/200yd (5.56) method since 200yds is close to the max I would need but I can still do holdovers if needed. For 300AAC I use a 75yd zero and adjust hold from there. It's used mostly for closer in hunting. I use a variety of optics but all my zeros are the same so whatever I pick up I know what to expect. Count me as a new subscriber.
Great Job, explaining this stuff for simple people like me. Thanks I learned some stuff tonight. GOD BLESS YOU! Thanks for your service.
THIS. THIS one is the best video on this topic I've yet to see. :-)
Excellent video and excellent information. Easy to understand. For most shooters any zero will work (ie ... 25, 50, 100, 200, etc...) However, once you have chosen your zero, then you should actually go out and shoot a lot of rounds, at different distances, to get comfortable with your choice. Too many new shoots think that once they have a zero it means they can hit any target at any distance without any other thought. Hold-over and hold-under will come into play at some point and this is what you need to be familiar with. There is no "magic" zero. Set a zero, practice with it (a lot) and get familiar with judging the distance to your target.
Thank you sir sometimes the k.i.s.s method of explaining is perfect for most .👍
I always sight my 270 Winchester 3-31/2 inches high at 100 yards with a 130 grain bullet, puts it 4 inches high at 200 yards, back on target 325, 9 inches low at 400, 25 inches low at 500
would be nice if you could have estimated at what distance approx. would a bullet have fallen below 4"
just an idea approx.
Hindsight is always sharper…
@@TridentConcepts think you mean "better" and I was just asking so we could see the full length of the true point blank and get a better picture of what is happening that's all. Why don't you just guesstimate it and add it to your video.
So then you might state the average "point blank range" for a .308 at a 6" target is some 400 yds. That's all.
Awesome video Jeff. Nicely done dude.
Thanks for sharing this excellent lesson!
Excellent, many thanks!
I hunt at 50 to 100 yd mostly, with a 30-06 for moose. I have a stand overlooking a field at 250 yd with 900 ft field of view, 70 ft elevation. 300 win mag
Now that sounds like heaven...
@@TridentConcepts my area in Alaska has a lottery and is not very well used. A few years ago, fish and game approached me and asked if I had noticed a lot of browsing. The area along our roads looked like a bulldozer had been through.
I told them about what I had seen and they had counted a large number of moose, higher than usual. They complimented my community in a large meeting thanking us for our conservation efforts (we've been clearing lands of invasive trees and replacing these areas with willow, Alaskan Alder and birch since 1990).
The population was so large we've be allowed to take "Any" moose for 2 years. This is in the Beluga/Tyonek area on the west side of Cook Inlet. Part of conservation was introducing a specially hunt for the "Wounded Warriors" program. We set up stands with ramp access and brought in bowhunters, handgun and rifle hunters. It was a 4 year project and we now will be doing a moose hunt this next year.
If someone wants a successful moose hunt check in Alaska fish and game website and register for a game ticket.
@@Lecon60 Wow, that is awesome! I'm sure the folks will really dig the hunts.
Excellent sir; simple & effective
Does a head wind or tail wind make a bullet rise or drop?
Any wind will influence the bullet's flight path. A 5.56mm at the ranges we are talking about is way less of an influencer over the shooter's & equipment's capability.
Yes, however that is a dynamic inquiry. There are too many undefined variables in your question to be able to give you a good answer. Cartridge load and temperature, ballistic coefficient, velocity, l/r barrel twist and ratio, atmospheric composition, amplitude and vector of wind, angle of departure, relationship of final firing position zenith to that of target etc, etc, etc..
In most cases though if you're engaging a sub-thousand yard target these effects will compound to a negligible sum.
If you're hunting deer you're probably fine. If you're hunting squirrels past a thousand yard then you're going to want to investigate the physics of fluid dynamics in regards to ballistics. Specifically, the magnus effect.
Good luck.
outstanding presentation. look forward to some range time.
Some of us don't have the luxury of working with 8 inches. Aim small, miss small....😂
A solid strategy...
Well explained. Thanks.
If you are selecting a zero for a specific type of weapon, a specific mission, specific hunt, etc... then consider your potential target and engagement range. For example, with a SBR, you probably shouldn't choose a 300m zero. If you are using a short barrel rifle then you probably expect to engage targets at 100m and under, so set your zero accordingly. Then go out an practice with the zero you have chosen. Take multiple shots at 25, 50, 75, 100, 200, etc... make notes of your hold over or hold under so if you ever need to use that weapon you will not be surprised when you shots are 2" low up close.
Very good. Thanks
Well explained, but like you said, it's all perspective.
Using 147 grain 9mm projectiles, a 50 yard zero would miss a 100 yd target by 8".
True, but we are talking rifle ballistics and in particular 5.56. Just wanted to make sure we were on the same page.
And what happens when target distance could be anything within capabilities of M4. Here’s an idea use the 25- 300 meter zero and you have a bullet drop compensation function to 600 meters from as issued sights plus out to 350 meters bullet will not be more than 10 inches high or 10 inches low from point of aim.
Here's another idea, watch the video again because you clearly missed the point on maximum point blank range.
@@TridentConceptswhat point? Fact is the 300 meter zero is synonymous with point blank when shooting Mk262 from M4 or A4. And if it’s not point blank enough for short distance take 3 MOA down.
@@charlesludwig9173 The 300m zero is the worst zero you can obtain. It is pitiful at anything outside of 300m. The fact there are incredibly few ranges that actually go out to 300m is a major issue. Attempting to simulate a 300m at any other distance than 300m is not a 300m. That fact is undisputed. If you zero it 25m and pretend it works that's one thing. Seeing it in practical use is something completely different. Most shooters have difficulty shooting to at least a 2" group at 50 yards (4MOA) and you expect them to shoot better than that at 300m. Nothing but jokes...
@@TridentConceptsu do not have a clue about the 300 meter zero trajectory from an M4 or M16A4. And, good hits on the E type target are easy at 300 from irons when the shooter has had some training about sight alignment and trigger control.
@@charlesludwig9173 Your statement is hilarious, but I guess I shouldn't expect much. I give you a level of precision and you come back with the E type silhouette as your justification. I'm literally going to be teaching a unit level Mid Range Rifle class where we shoot out to 500 yards and you want to argue with me I haven't a clue. The hit ratios in this class more than speak for themselves. But, you go on with your bad self🤣🤣🤣
Thanks
What point on this graph is the "effective range" ?
No such point in the graph
Please don't tell my wife that the circle he drew is what 8" looks like, holy shit.
Bahahahahahahaha...
Well done, professor...
Hey Jeff, what are you concealing there on your right hand side? A desert eagle .50? That looks too big to be a Sig 226.
Thank you
Excellent!
25 yard zero
480 yards is the next intersection zero approximately on a 223 5.56.
100 yards 6inches high
Basically a center dead center human target is a hit every time out to 500 yards
That's interesting, I wonder why it never works out that way in the real world🤔
@@TridentConcepts cos they don't know their hold over and can't properly judge range withing 5 yards like us Native American Indians. Go up to the mountain and get right brother. LMAO.
Big Thumb Up, Jeff. You have simplified what can quickly evolve into a Graduate Course Level discussion.
Is the goal to engage your target with a kill shot? Or, to punch a hole into a piece of paper?
Oh, yea. I'm a retired Army Infantryman, Vietnam-Era.
Appreciate the kind words...
Great instruction!
There's a lot more that goes into a really good zero but this is a great primer. I'd love to see a video on doing calculations by hand with a simple and more complex formula. Calculators are nice and all but doing the math on paper is better for fine tuning.
This video is to help folks better understand a "maximum point blank range". If I have to help them with calculators or even math, it defeats the purpose.
Hey Jeff, quick question. While researching zeros for a 14.5inch barrel I came across a 40/250 yard zero. What struck me was the total vertical deviation was 7inches out to 300 yards with a max ordinate of 3 inches around 150 yards and 4 inches low at 300. Have you heard of this zero? What would be your opinion of this zero sir?
@Paul M you sure it wasn't 36? We use a 36/300 yard zero in the Corps. Rises to about 4.5 above line of sight at 175 but is dead nuts with a 20in barrel, about an inch low from a 16in and about 2.5-3 low from a 14.5.
Ugh. Audio only coming out the left speaker.
Sorry, it's over 10 years old
After 12 years I wonder if the guns were taken to the range. Here hoping for part 2 😂
Quite often 😉
I think for us normal folks and if you're around any type of city or even in the country a 50 /200 yard zero is perfect. If you're in Afghanistan or you have a really long distances perhaps the 25 /300 is better
Nah this is better. Go plug in your data in a ballistics app and what your zero is for PBR. The only time you will have hold high inside of 50 yards. 50 to about 200 ish is PBR. Easier to remember. Shoot high close range.
Where are the zero ? I have Matlin 795 with ammunition Remington 40 grains?
36 yard zero for 16inch barreled ar is the best
It is always fun to see someone try to use that zero in class.
@@TridentConcepts it worked really well when I went to Valor ridge and training with reid
@@johnyoos981 Well that is about as scientific as they come. Hard to argue with that logic.
@@TridentConcepts haha.. they missed all the unspoken words your brother didn't mention in his vid.. twist rate, m855? 77g? 62? Etc etc..
36 yard zero is the sweet spot for real world applications. Tried tested and proven. In reality there is no perfect zero, it should be adapted per application, if I’m door kicking with a red dot why do I need a 200 yard zero? I don’t. If your working in country on terrain that has visual engagement distances above 300 yards then I’m changing my optic for say an Acog and zeroing my rifle at 100-200 yards.
Same terrain below 300 then it’s a holo sight or acog at 36. You can dick about with bullet weight math, barrel length and ballistic coefficients all day long, but in the heat of the moment you ain’t think about any of that crap. Setup for your application and intended use and move on.
Near zero 50 yards. Far zero 200 yards.
There is no such thing, you either have one or the other. The fact you may see your projectile bisect at a certain distance dose not equate to an actual zero. People learn then in class or when actually firing from these ranges.
Let's just forget about a bullet for a minute. Shoot a bow and arrow that is sighted in for thirty yards and tell me that the arrow never rises above your line of sight! Look, I'm just a Navy man but I understand the mechanics of a sighting device and it sounds like you are lost in a mathmatical equation. Lol
This message is for the math teacher. Lol.
Think of it in another way. The arrow is dropping vertically once it's released. The only way it can acquire its target is via an arch. No matter how minuscule or visible.
@@MikeNaples what you aren't getting is that the line of sight is not the same as trajectory. This is the reason there are two zeros in a trajectory for any caliber or arrow. The line of sight crosses the trajectory twice.
@@larryfoster2227 I really get that. Perhaps I'm confused as to what is your argument with the video.
@@MikeNaples you said that the bullet never rises above the line of sight which I realize doesn't happen and that also isn't what this guy said.
Robert Downey Jr. dat you?
Bullets begin dropping as soon as the leave the barrel. They don't climb.
You're missing the point. This is considering after aiming upward for that range. He's talking corrected trajectory not absolute.
Only if fired absolutely level/horizontally.
Dear plz speak slowly, I follow you to learn from you. English is not my basic tongue... Thank you 😊😊😊
Very clear thank you