Amazing video. I never understood why when the igniter was glowing it could potentially be bad. But this explains it draws enough power that runs through the bimetallic strip to bend it. If igniter is weak and it doesn't draw enough the bimetallic strip doesn't bend.
Thank you a thousand times over. My oven was used to heat the house for winter and now, I understand what happened to the safety valve. The heat affected that plate.
Excellent quality video and the unique content. Thank you very much for taking a time. I have a follow up question. I have a Bosch stove in which I am about to replace the ignite 4th time. It does not last for more than 2 weeks. I thought my safety valve was faulty until after your video. I don't see how safety valve (analog device) can cause any issues to the igniter itself. Would you have any suggestion? Thanks again.
@@danwipper Here is I've done and it seems like working - - I used latex gloves while the installation. It is very possible that some body oil transfer may have effect.
Great vid thanks. So we recently had an extremely loud boom happen in our oven including a basketball sized fire ball come out the door as it blew open a few inches. So we changed the ignitor and it works fine, but shouldn't we change the fuel valve also? The oven is 10 years old G.E. in very good shape except for this issue. If the ignitor was provided marginally correct current (3.4-ish Amps) to open the fuel valve but not ignite the oven burners this is a SERIOUS problem. There was apparently a lot of gas collecting inside the oven but there was no smell. I checked around the Web, and other than a "small" boom with a degrading ignitor no one has witnessed this near-violent boom we did. It literally rocked the entire house. I plan on reporting the issue to the consumer safety board as this could've been way more serious if someone was standing by the door or even worse looking at the viewing window to check if the oven was working.
I have a leaking oven safety valve on my frigidaire stove. The oven and and all the other burners work fine The problem is the safety valve does not shit off completely ss i smell gas continuously until i close the main gas supply valve. Can this valve be repaired or I have to replace it.
Wow I haven't seen a more informative video I don't think ever that was exactly what I needed to fix this oven A+++ nice job on the video
Amazing video. I never understood why when the igniter was glowing it could potentially be bad. But this explains it draws enough power that runs through the bimetallic strip to bend it. If igniter is weak and it doesn't draw enough the bimetallic strip doesn't bend.
Thank you a thousand times over. My oven was used to heat the house for winter and now, I understand what happened to the safety valve. The heat affected that plate.
Excellent quality video and the unique content. Thank you very much for taking a time. I have a follow up question. I have a Bosch stove in which I am about to replace the ignite 4th time. It does not last for more than 2 weeks. I thought my safety valve was faulty until after your video. I don't see how safety valve (analog device) can cause any issues to the igniter itself. Would you have any suggestion? Thanks again.
Maybe the igniter is not rated for the voltage you are giving it? Are you giving it 220 and it's only rated for 110?
@@windsunh2o negative. There is no way to get 220 on single hot wire in US
@@danwipper Here is I've done and it seems like working - - I used latex gloves while the installation. It is very possible that some body oil transfer may have effect.
Great vid thanks. So we recently had an extremely loud boom happen in our oven including a basketball sized fire ball come out the door as it blew open a few inches. So we changed the ignitor and it works fine, but shouldn't we change the fuel valve also? The oven is 10 years old G.E. in very good shape except for this issue. If the ignitor was provided marginally correct current (3.4-ish Amps) to open the fuel valve but not ignite the oven burners this is a SERIOUS problem. There was apparently a lot of gas collecting inside the oven but there was no smell. I checked around the Web, and other than a "small" boom with a degrading ignitor no one has witnessed this near-violent boom we did. It literally rocked the entire house. I plan on reporting the issue to the consumer safety board as this could've been way more serious if someone was standing by the door or even worse looking at the viewing window to check if the oven was working.
Wow, glad you all are safe! I wonder if the safety valve gets old and can have this issue? Very scary!
Excellent video.
hi. it there transformer inside the valve to make voltage 3 volt. that what is saying on the label only 3VAC
there is no transformer. Due to the sequential connection of the ignitor and valve, a significant portion of the voltage drops across the ignitor.
thanks. forgot this. in series potential gets divided over resistance
I have a leaking oven safety valve on my frigidaire stove. The oven and and all the other burners work fine
The problem is the safety valve does not shit off completely ss i smell gas continuously until i close the main gas supply valve. Can this valve be repaired or I have to replace it.
Can a bad safty valve lead to excessive CO emissions?
unlikely, most likely a problem with the burner, nozzle or air supply
@@ApplianceRepairinColorado Can the bimetallic strip melt or catch fire?
Also how long does it take for the bimetallic strip to bend and open the gas valve and can the bimetallic strip break?
great
Stone Age design🤕😢
Works very well. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.
@@danwipper seems like the further back you go more reliable things were