How to change brakes and rotors on a Chevy 88-98 C1500
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Im going to show you step by step how to replace your wheel bearings, replace rotors, and brake pads on your 88-98 Chevy C1500 pick-up. This is my first video for my series of building up my truck "Grinch"
If you like the video please subscribe to my channel for more content. There will be plenty more videos stay tuned! Thank you!
It’s a lot easier if you remove the caliper BEFORE you remove the rotor nut and loosen the rotor.
Also if you disconnect the brake line in order to replace the caliper buy some small rubber stoppers you can shove into the end of the bake line fitting to stop the brake from bleeding out. Don’t try pinching the line off, you could crack the hose on an older truck.
Hands-down, the best tutorial I've seen on anything in a while.
Thank you so much i really appreciate it!
Super helpful! I really like this step by step, and also that you shared what size allen wrench is used. In 207,000 miles, my 1994 C1500 has only needed the front brakes done once, and it's time for a second round. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Kyle that was just what the doctor ordered for my 94 GMC. Most tedious part for me was getting the axles caps off nicely and catching a thread when reinstalling the caliper. Thanks again! FWIW anyone who prefers using a socket on the castle nut rather than channel locks, it's a 1 3/16".
Cool thanks, appreciate the feedback!
Or a 30mm
Thanks sm man, i’m 17 and my 96 is my first truck and i haven’t got a clue on how to do anything but this was super informative!
OK, second comment. The spindle nut should NOT be tightened until the rotor hardly moves. The factory setting for the initial tightening of this nut is 12ft/lbs. (Kinda hand tight) The nut is then loosened a very small bit.
I am about to do this on my 94 truck. It will be my first time doing my brakes! Thanks for the video!
Great Video! Thanks for posting. I'd changed rotors before, but the bearing were always part of a hub assembly. I had already gotten started before realizing the bearings were intermingled like that... seriously, you're video saved the day. I can't thank you enough!
Awsome glad it helped out!!
Thanks for this video, helped me swap out my brake pads when they wanted to charge me $350 for rotors when I didn’t need them. Cheers 😎🤙
Getting ready to do a 95. Thank you so much for the detailed information and walk through!
Your welcome. Good luck on your adventure!
One of the few have a brain to do this job on UA-cam…10/10 good pro job
Good job, I needed a refresher on this truck. It had been a while. Thanks.
Np glad to help!👍
Same here thanks for the vid bro
Wow loved that you went through this step by step. Great job
I would use hi temp brake grease for the pins and bearing grease for the bearings (rated for higher temps) will last longer. also brake grease where the brake pads clip so they dont squeak or rust (corrode)to the caliper. great video!
Great step by step video!! Saved me hundreds of dollars by being able to do it myself. Thanks man!
Glad it help out! And thank u for the comment!
Thanks buddy for the helpful info I’m going to do my 91 gmc 1500 soon and save me hundreds of dollars thanx to you !
step by step is awesome helped a lot, Yours is the only video for my year, make and model. Thank you
Thats awesome im glad that the video helped u out!
Thank you so much, I followed u step by step. Thank you again. Keep posting videos.
thanks man i've been looking for about a month on how to do it and this is a really good step by step tutorial.
Awesome glad it helped out! Also tyvm for the feedback appriciate it
This was a really helpful and Detailed video, thank you brother and have a blessed day.
Thank you, nice detail, step by step video. It is exactly the info I needed.
Thank you for the video. Just one comment; you should always replace the new bearing Race because if the old bearing had a problem and needed to be replaced, the old race will cause the same problem with the new bearing. The race is not hard to replace, just tap it out with a punch from the opposite side. Just saying, I have been working on cars and trucks since 1955.
New rotors come with races installed eh
Thank you. My pops and I just watched your video it helped out a lot.
Easy to follow, and instructions clear. Thanks.
Great video! I needed a refresher before I did this again as its been 15 years since I have! hahah
Great video! Very informative. I like that you mentioned the allen size and the part numbers.
Awesome glad you enjoyed the video! I know how i am when i watch vids so i did my best to try to make something even i could watch
Your a live safer was able to do my front breaks doing exactly what you showed thank you again
I'm getting ready to do a whole brake system upgrade front and back with slotted rotors. This video helps a lot with the front on how to DIY. Nicely done bud.
A few things. Thanks for making this video. A large screw driver is best for removing dust cap without denting it. The needle nose pliers are not a crow bar. You had a hammer there to tap on closed needle nose pliers to extract the cotter pin. You would have found it easier to remove the caliper first before loosening the rotor giving a solid base for the extraction. Spray brake cleaner after the pad is installed in the caliper and then the rotor. Caliper installs top in first as you figured out. Now you know what not to do to make the job easier.
Kick-ass DIY video. Thanks!
Thank you! Very much! Awesome instruction and very understandable.. Subscribed and looking forward to upcoming GMC Sierra vids..💪😊
Np and tyvm. Trying to get some vids out just trying to save up for something big hopefully soon!
You should use synthetic caliper grease for the sliding caliper pins, instead bearing grease was used. You are going to have problem in the future due to grease dries up and the caliper will no longer slides back and get stuck. No caliper grease too on the back of new brake pads and contacts.you will hear noise when caliper grease is eliminated on this area.your video is good.
Cool didnt know that appriciate the comment and feedback!
I've owned my 98 c1500 for 2 weeks now and I've spent more time gathering random tools to work on the thing than actual work 😂. I could almost fully rebuild my Honda using a 10mm, 12mm and a Phillips head screwdriver!
Great job. Easy to understand. Thanks
Hey Kyle; wasn't dissing you at all my friend; your DIY video is fantastic. Just had question regarding setting the bearings to a proper torque. I did mine step by step from your video but both rotors began to work their way off and scared up the back of one of my rotors. Mechanic stated the bearings were not set to the proper torque.
Your video is great.
Love the detail in the video
Hey, I’m changing the rotor and everything fits perfectly but there’s a ring where the rotor slides in and it’s not sliding all the way back where it needs too? Is there anyway you can help?
Im not sure what ring u are exactly talking about? R u talking about the wheel seal or bearing race?
I have a 97 Sierra with 220k miles and I have spongy brake problems. I installed a new master cylinder, brake booster and bled and brake lines properly to make sure theres no air pockets. I had my rotors and brake pads replaced at 217K miles. I took it to a mechanic to see the problems and they told me its a common thing among this generation of vehicle.
Ya it is. Might wanna do some research ive heard guys swapping parts from like the 2000+ year models to help that issue
Very informative and helpful. Thanks for doing the job step by step. Excellent cameraman work. Just one question. Are the bearings made in China or somewhere's else? Seems like all bearings are made in China now. Even Timken. I have to do this on my truck so i was just wondering. Thanks!
Tyvm for the feedback. Im not 100% on where the bearings are made. Im sure they are, just went to my nearest auto parts store.
It's so when we go to war with China we won't have any bearings
@@whoseyourdaddyful Yep and probably a lot of other stuff too.
Excellent video! Very helpful as I attempted to replace my first set of brakes last night in my 91 Sierra. It wasnt too bad. The only thing is the outer pad won't snap into the holes. They're loose for some odd reason. So in a few minutes I'm gonna give it another go. Any suggestions and/or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Maybe they got bent while getting moved around? Probably could just bend the metal tabs and call it good. But maybe make sure u got the right parts first before u do that
Thank you
Np and good luck!
So apparently I had the bearing in the wrong way 😂😂😂😂😂
Lol at least its a simple fix!
Great DIY Video. The only question which appears to be either or would be; why not remove the caliber prior to removing the rotors? Question: is there such a thing as an incorrect size rotor even if the lug studs line up with your lug nuts?
Hey man, I’m wondering where you purchased those rotors? I’ve been looking for some just like that
The inner bearing is the one on the "Inside"..and the one on the Outside under the bearing cap you Smashed is the Outer 🙄....Don't take off the Bearing caps by hitting them with a hammer and when you put them back on also..you can use a chisel or screwdriver and carefully go between the flange of the cap then use a flat punch to tap them back on around the flange....otherwise you can possibly smash it against the nut and create metal fragments as it scrapes inside.
Do you have to torque the castle nut?
Now you know why you do the bearing after removing the caliper. :)
Savage
Inner and outer bearings were mixed up as well. He kept calling the outer the inner. The smaller one is the outer. Not that it really matters cause you should replace both when replacing these rotors anyways and there is only one way each one can go. But other than these two things everything else was pretty good.
@ekleffsoundz do you know what size Allen key is used? Or is the t22 bit able to fit?
@@bendthatpity5419caliper bolts were 3/8ths allen
Very good video.
Drives me nuts using a pliers on a nut.
Do not use multi-purpose grease, low melt temperature. Use disc brake grease, its high temperature.
Great video. Good cameraman. Thanks
Tyvm appreciate it actually is camerawoman, my fiance shes the behind the scenes but again tyvm glad u enjoyed the video
Have these rotors improved braking more than if you simply installed quality brake pads with regular rotors?
Other than the look is there a performance benefit? Everything I've found & read says those help with cooling but really don't help you stop in less distance. Also ive read those type dotors wear pads quicker.. whats your opinion after having them awhile?
To be honest i havent driven the truck for a while. The engine went bad so its just been sitting till i get an engine but i did install a pair on my 67 mustang with a 5 speed. With the combination of both it was way better than just a regular rotor and pad set up.
Great video! Question, I was thinking of upgrading to the rotors you had, vented/slotted/drilled. Did you notice any difference? Any good? Was it worth the upgrade? I've got a '93 - Thanks!
No difference, replaced a week ago .
Loves them channel locks
Right on bro. I was doing mine as you showed it
Nice! Glad it helped u out!
Thank you i feel like with this video I can do it by myself
Question Kyle my rotor won’t sit flush, think the bearing needs to be pushed half inch down
Really nice job on the video! I liked how you used brake cleaner on the pads and rotors - definitely a better option than wiping them down with a greasy rag. :) One thing I saw though, you might want to double check that rotor, I think that one was for the left side of your truck bro!
Yes sir most definitely lol. Ok i will definitely check that out thanks!
Which rotors did you go with? What year is your truck? Are they the 1 inch or 1.25 inch?
Hi just wondering what size your Allan key was that’s you used to take off the guide pin bolt
I used a 3/8 allen wrench/key
Where did you buy the rotor kit? Is there any way you can leave a link in the description? Thanks 🙏
My bearings seal is not flush… should I take it out and reseat? Also, how do I get it out? It’s pretty snug in there and I don’t want to ruin anything.
What kit did you use? I would like a part number if you have one or a link to what specific set up you have thanks!
What type of upper control arm do u have on that truck ? I’m lowering my truck with a 4/6 drop and I’m looking for some good upper control arms that’s better than the stock control arm and help with the camber up front
I also have a 4/6 drop on my truck i went with djm tubular control arns. Ca2555u is the part # for the ones i used. That part # is off pf their website but i bought mine off of summit think it was a bit cheaper
Glad you shared this with the UA-cam world. Needed a refresher on doing the rotors. But you had me confused as hell at first with the inner/outer bearings. Then I realized you were just saying them backwards. Thought I was loosing what few marbles I have left. Good video and tutorial. What upper and lower control arms are you runnimg?
Thanks bro helped me a lot
Is it possible to swap out the 6 bolt with the 8 bolt from the k2500 model without major conversions to the axle?
Not sure honestly check put facebook or some forums im sure someone has fome it before
on my 98 i cant get the race to go in flush on the back of the rotor.Does the race sit flush or a little more down?I ordered a race installer.
Ok?? So you mention 1988 through 1998 chevrolet Do the drilled and slotted rotors you upgraded to fit all of those years including 1992- Cheyenne? I ask because I have a 1992 chev c1500 Cheyenne Rear wheel drive standard brakes " No" ABS. Obviously you have ABS because of the gear on the inside of Your rotor. Hmmm I want to upgrade to aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors as well as New calipers Not- Remanufactured. Thing is?
Everyone/websight I look at say they do not have any such product to fit this Cheyenne?? Are these years interchangeable?
Cool step by step video 👍
Tyvm glad u enjoyed it!
Very Good video. One comment. You wold have found it much easier to remove the caliper had you not removed the outer wheel bearing. Had you just been replacing the Pads, you would not have removed the wheel bearing. The video clearly shows the rotor moving as you struggled to wriggle it off.
Boutta go change the breaks on my 94 k15, thanks man!
Thanks for this video very informative 👍
Ur welcome!
Cool!! Now that you're done take it all apart and put the Rotors on the correct side..you have the drivers side on the passenger side..The slots and holes should Sweep outwards going into the brake pads that's how dirt /brake dust slings out of the Rotors and pads....There's an old saying.."Use the correct tool for the job "...Start by getting yourself a Hex drive Allen much faster on a Ratchet...use a hook tool to stick in the cotter pin and tap it with a hammer and the pin comes out in a second.....
I have a 1990 c1500 Silverado. It all looks exactly the same. However mine rubs on the control arm. Looks like the rotor is too far inside. Is the inner bearing an A5? Even tho it’s a little loose on the spindle?
I would say if its loose its not right should fit pretty close to perfect. I would double check u have the right bearings
@@kylestaton2993 I have made countless trips to oreillys and autozone. The only two bearings that their computer says fit are the A5 or A6. A5 fits fine the outside diameter but the inside diameter is loose on the spindle. The A6 fits perfect on the spindle but goes too far inside the rotor. I am out of ideas
Where did u get the rotors from? And are they the original spindles?
@@kylestaton2993 I got it all at orielys, the spindle is factory original I’m just replacing the rotors. I have the 4.55 in deep 5-5.5 bolt pattern 5lug. But for some reason the rotor rubs on my control arm from the inside.
Thats very weird something is obviously off. Did u keep your old parts?
Nice video im about to do the same thanks for sharing .
Cool and good luck hope this helps you out
You’re the man! Thank you!
Np man glad it helped you out!
You're using the channel locks backwards... but awesome video.
Can someone please tell me if this rotor is for rear wheel or 4 wheel drive ? I bought identical rotors for my 1500 rear wheel drive but I’m afraid I got only 4 wheel drive rotors.
That is not how GM tells you to adjust those wheel bearings. Book says you should also check master cyl fluid level before compressing piston and cotter pin installation a little sloppy but I'm sure you would make it to wherever you want to drive it. Good video.
This was a very good video
Call mine the green machine.... 5.0 pulls up to the chassis VIN but the VIN on the block says 5.7. Best $1000 ever spent.
Funny as I saw my rotors (got the same.ones as you slotted ) I looked at it holy shit heavy did I get the right ones 😂 ..
Good tutorial man
Good job man 👍
Great instructional video man!
Tyvm!
Wherr did you get rotors? Link? Thanks!
Great video man!! I’m going to do this to my 94, already bought what I need. Question though, can I use the same outer and inner bearings? Or is it best to buy new ones?
I would say to replace it now since youll be messing with now. Would hate to do all that work then have to redo it for a 10 dollar bearing lol
@@kylestaton2993 Fosho!! I bought them both! Outer in inner bearings! Gonna work on it this weekend! Thanks man! I subbed!
@@obsdwayne awesome thx ill hopefully have another video out soon
How do you avoid the brake shake when you slow down?
Great vid man! By the way, where’d you get those rotors?
Appriciate that! I got the kit off summit racing
Did your new brake rotor come with a rear seal for the bearing.. or did you have to put one in? I know it doesn’t come with bearings. I’m asking if it comes with the seal or not. Please reply!
Nice work excellent
Don't go by size Allen socket O'Reilly tells you. Are the one I went to told me 10 mm.
I bought a set of mm and tried the 10 and I had to get a standard set from Walmart.
And a little info on tools you can almost get a set of ea at Walmart for same price as 1 at O'Reilly.thanks for video. I liked and subscribe.
Bro what size in the bolt with the retaining clips in the middle that's holding the rotors it seems everyone is so quick to make a video but doesn't tell you what size are the bolt
Take caliper off first a lot easier. Also you put the seal in backwards.
YEP !!!! I think he will be successful......
Great video! Will be doing this on my 94 soon this was very helpful
so you got inner and outer wheel bearings ? and what was the other part you got as well it looked like a seal ? or was it something else
Yes i did. Its called a wheel seal. It holds the outer bearing in place as well as the grease.
Good job !
What size is the nut
the caliber shouldve been taken off before you tried to take the rotor off to prevent you from having so many issues and on top of that you need to decompress the pads and piston to make it easier to get the caliber off
Lot faster to hit it with a hammer then to wip out the c clamp, only to hit it with a hammer anyways when it's still stuck
Nice tutorials.
Review the control arms. Are those DJM? Are you about to run 15's ?
Yup i have 2in drop springs and 2in lowering control arms both from djm
And also running 15in wheels
Where did u buy the rotors?
Great video mann..I loved it...do you have one on rear drum brakes
That Carter pin kicked your ass.
Cotter*