Wish this video was out when we changed ours! That brass nut had us fidgeting with it, ended up having to melt the plastic to get it out and glue it back as well. Thanks for your videos!!
You are my hero. Thank you for this...even though it didn't solve my current problem, I now know how to get that thing off the next time something shorts!
Had problems before with no starting van and shoot off when driving…. Problem was in fuse boxes, exactly fuse number 8 I believe, which response for ignition, connections was bad. I take it off all fuse boxes and fixed only that connector. Maybe will help for somebody ✌️
My van starts my problem is the turn signals shut off and on if I wiggle the relays at the bottom that are together they go on but some times the engine shuts off until I press on the fuse box again. The old man I bought the van from said people replace fuse box only to have it fail again is your similar ? And did fixing the fuse only work ?
My 04 sat for a while, then today I had the no start/no crank with aux fan running full speed. This has happened on three others I’ve had, and the nut is always stripped. Thanks for the video it’s been a while I had to verify I would end up prying it off.
If charging the battery and cleaning battery terminals doesn't fix it replace the battery. There are other reasons for these symptoms but when following a long sittin'-spell it is just the battery offering low cold cranking amps 99% of the time.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you. It ended up needing the fuse box under the steering wheel swapped. Started right up after I swapped it. All the rest (good battery, clean terminals, etc) had already been done. Glad I still had one of those fuse boxes in a parts sprinter.
@@FloridaVanMan I run my 3500 almost every day and have not had issues with it not starting until the last week or so. 3 times I have had the no start, no crank, no fan followed by "hey it started". The clock resets, the, the radio resets but when it starts all seems to be good. There are so many related videos online and I recently watched your video "No Start Sprinter, No-Crank but the Fan is On when Key is On. Explained and resolved" which seems related by not exactly what I am seeing. (I haven't tried that yet, but do have my electrial tester handy. ha) I also saw a "start error" one of the 3 times, though I don't know if I missed it other times as I wasn't watching for it. Do you have a systematic approach I can try to get the the root cause(s)? I just don't want it to NOT start when I am in the middle of nowhere after a hike with no cell phone service. ha
@@OCNJKirk The clock resetting is a good detail to include. It tells me you are having a connection issue, likely ground at the battery short cable. Wiggle that cable next time it won't start. Give it a good bend, it;s only a few inches long so you will disrupt both end crimps, the clamp and the connection to the body. Clean connections at the + terminal also. The post can be corroded and the connection to the distribution block often works itself loose.
@@FloridaVanMan I did the wiggle and heard a few small electrical "clicks". The may onto the chassis appears to have a black glob of adhesive/loctite do I'm guessing it has not been disconnected in the past 18 years. Would you recommend discounting both ends and cleaning the ground connections, or just stick with the wiggle. (By the way no issues for 2 days. 🤞🏼) I loosened and pulled the "+" and cleaned it, though it was pretty clean to begin with (replaced the chair battery last December).
Thank you for this! I had no signals or hazards for over a year.. ordered a new multi function switch and replaced it and still nada.. that was 6 mos ago and I gave up until today.., I went out there this morning wiggled the fuse box around a bit and sure enough the signals lit right up. It all works now! But if I do press the whole fuse box down a bit with pressure there is some play then the engine cuts out if it’s on with dash message “error start”. Do I need to tighten up the fuse box somehow? Any suggestions or feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
There is a top bolt on the fuse box that should* screw tightly into the new multi-function switch. If that screw is stripped some folks use zip-ties to hold the fuse box tight. If holding it tight doesn't help, replacing the fuse box might solve troubles. They go bad with corroded connections inside.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply and taking the time to do so. Following your awesome channel and It has helped me tremendously with my sprinter.
Done so well anybody could do it. Is there a lot of electronics or parts that go bad inside the box? I'm pretty sure I've heard strange noises coming out of it. I don't want to fool with opening up a can of worms, I think I just need to replace mine too.
Hi Florida Van Man. I have a van as per your video of the fuse box removal. My problem is the fuel pum solonoid is not getting power where is the relay for that and the fuse location? any help is fine thanks. I am competent auto spark but to do a wire trace would take a lot of time and over here in scotland I can get no wiring diagram... thanks. Tom in Ayr Scotland.
On our North American models there is a fuel pump relay under the driver seat, easily accessible from the side and accompanied by the starter relay. There is also an ignition relay on the bottom of the steering column fuse box. Three relays there can be swapped around to see if trouble moves from the start-up sequence to wipers/blinkers or high beam lights.
So that bundle on the right by itself - ignition routes through there? That would be a good spot to wire in a manual kill switch if one were to go that route, yes?
I just pulled every fuse under the steering column and checked for continuity which they ALL had. Yet I still have NO power to the drivers window? I looked under the driver's seat and all I see is wire bundles and a couple of square looking relays I guess? Are the connections for the power to the windows under the seat?
@@FloridaVanMan thank you. I have a 2006 118, my FAVORITE vehicle ever, that has a blown head gasket(?) 440,000 miles. Have you dealt with that. I now drive a 2020 that I almost hate. What is, on your opinion, the best year for the Sprinter? The only thing I did is 2 water pumps and breaks and belts and tensioner. Supposedly injectors need changed every 200k miles I didn't change them at 400k. Supposedly a bad one can squirt extra fuel and blow the gasket. I appreciate your channel.
@@supermankent1041 I have done head gaskets and will confirm it is not rocket science. If you can read a book and follow instructions, you can do it. You will need a torque wrench and the ones we can borrow from the auto parts store are generally abused and/or broken. You will probably have a delay waiting for some part you didn't know you needed and you will need a friend to help lift the head out of the van and put it back in. Last time I left both manifolds on the head which make it very heavy but also gave wide handles and eliminated the risk of broken studs. You will need some levers and chain or straps to break the old gasket seal and get the head up. Just lifting it without breaking loose first will require more strength than Superman Kent has. :)
Hello FVM, I have power draw from fuse 8 and 20 that goes to HVAC module and then power up to heater 3-way valve, and other power run goes to interior lighting this started happening suddenly , I replaced the relays on n the fuse box number 1 ,did not work, do you think its due to the fuse box itself or a short circuit somewhere else? Thanks
If I understand the description I think it is in the HVAC controller, in the dash. We had one here a few weeks ago with the REST button always on. It wouldn't even time-out as the rest feature should in 20 minutes. So his aux water pump was always powered on and worn out so didn't actually run. the dash fan resistor was also worn-out from being left always on lowest setting. He knew the fan didn't work but did not know the aux water pump was bad. That circuit being on all the time but doing nothing, cause dead battery any time he parked more than 5 or 6 hours.
I replaced the fuse box, so my power draw is down from 1.5 amp to 0.17 amp, is it an OK number? I run my AP200 code reader and I have B1009-007 saying my Circulation Pump has short circuit to positive or open circuit. My HVAC module REST button does not illuminate when I press, is my HVAC module faulty even I asked a professional shop to check it? Or I have a short circuit? Will this short circuit eventually damage my new fuse box again? Thank you so much.
This doesn't sound like common issues. I'd want to get my hands on it to find out what exactly is going on. We have a video on the coolant pump in question. Search my channel for "Aux" and it will be the only video that pops up. The Aux water pump is on the firewall and used by the REST feature. I've seen that rest button become a problem that kills battery in a few hours. Perhaps a replacement HVAC control is needed or repair at ModuleRepairPro.com. I've used them a few times.@@gt500zombi
Thank you so much@@FloridaVanMan ! You are a treasure! I've wanted a T1N for decades - finally picked up a beautiful 2004 with 112K miles in pristine condition only to have the ABS module melt.... Sat for 15 months now on it's journey back to life. You're a great help!!
That is one very good possibility but I also see reasonable possibility someone who didn't know how to tap into the wire without cutting it did this just to add an accessory 12volt line constantly on. It would be too difficult to reach the back of the switch with solder iron, not easy this close under the column. Easier when I was younger, I suppose.
The three under the fuse box are under steering are: High-beams, ECM & hazards. The ones in the side door of the driver seat base are fuel pump and starter. The rest are under front edge of the driver seat and change location from van to van.
Flashing dash lights is often a failing battery. The glow plugs are a considerable draw on battery and can shut-down the computer. This shuts off the glow plugs and then the dash lights come on as the ECM reboots, but as soon as the glow plugs try to energize they overwhelm the battery again. This cycle repeats almost twice per second making the dash flash. Another possibility is a battery isolator doing about the same thing with one or the other batteries in distress.
Wish this video was out when we changed ours! That brass nut had us fidgeting with it, ended up having to melt the plastic to get it out and glue it back as well. Thanks for your videos!!
Yea I had to prime it out , did not put back on, not sure if it has to go back on or not?
You are my hero. Thank you for this...even though it didn't solve my current problem, I now know how to get that thing off the next time something shorts!
Good job !👍👍👍😁
Had problems before with no starting van and shoot off when driving…. Problem was in fuse boxes, exactly fuse number 8 I believe, which response for ignition, connections was bad. I take it off all fuse boxes and fixed only that connector. Maybe will help for somebody ✌️
My van starts my problem is the turn signals shut off and on if I wiggle the relays at the bottom that are together they go on but some times the engine shuts off until I press on the fuse box again. The old man I bought the van from said people replace fuse box only to have it fail again is your similar ? And did fixing the fuse only work ?
@polotov did you ever find out the issue? I have the same problem
My 04 sat for a while, then today I had the no start/no crank with aux fan running full speed. This has happened on three others I’ve had, and the nut is always stripped. Thanks for the video it’s been a while I had to verify I would end up prying it off.
If charging the battery and cleaning battery terminals doesn't fix it replace the battery. There are other reasons for these symptoms but when following a long sittin'-spell it is just the battery offering low cold cranking amps 99% of the time.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you. It ended up needing the fuse box under the steering wheel swapped. Started right up after I swapped it. All the rest (good battery, clean terminals, etc) had already been done. Glad I still had one of those fuse boxes in a parts sprinter.
@@FloridaVanMan I run my 3500 almost every day and have not had issues with it not starting until the last week or so. 3 times I have had the no start, no crank, no fan followed by "hey it started". The clock resets, the, the radio resets but when it starts all seems to be good. There are so many related videos online and I recently watched your video
"No Start Sprinter, No-Crank but the Fan is On when Key is On. Explained and resolved"
which seems related by not exactly what I am seeing. (I haven't tried that yet, but do have my electrial tester handy. ha) I also saw a "start error" one of the 3 times, though I don't know if I missed it other times as I wasn't watching for it. Do you have a systematic approach I can try to get the the root cause(s)? I just don't want it to NOT start when I am in the middle of nowhere after a hike with no cell phone service. ha
@@OCNJKirk The clock resetting is a good detail to include. It tells me you are having a connection issue, likely ground at the battery short cable. Wiggle that cable next time it won't start. Give it a good bend, it;s only a few inches long so you will disrupt both end crimps, the clamp and the connection to the body. Clean connections at the + terminal also. The post can be corroded and the connection to the distribution block often works itself loose.
@@FloridaVanMan I did the wiggle and heard a few small electrical "clicks". The may onto the chassis appears to have a black glob of adhesive/loctite do I'm guessing it has not been disconnected in the past 18 years. Would you recommend discounting both ends and cleaning the ground connections, or just stick with the wiggle. (By the way no issues for 2 days. 🤞🏼)
I loosened and pulled the "+" and cleaned it, though it was pretty clean to begin with (replaced the chair battery last December).
Sold my vista cruiser last year. Big mistake! Values are thru the roof!
Thank you for this! I had no signals or hazards for over a year.. ordered a new multi function switch and replaced it and still nada.. that was 6 mos ago and I gave up until today.., I went out there this morning wiggled the fuse box around a bit and sure enough the signals lit right up. It all works now! But if I do press the whole fuse box down a bit with pressure there is some play then the engine cuts out if it’s on with dash message “error start”. Do I need to tighten up the fuse box somehow? Any suggestions or feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
There is a top bolt on the fuse box that should* screw tightly into the new multi-function switch. If that screw is stripped some folks use zip-ties to hold the fuse box tight. If holding it tight doesn't help, replacing the fuse box might solve troubles. They go bad with corroded connections inside.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply and taking the time to do so. Following your awesome channel and It has helped me tremendously with my sprinter.
Done so well anybody could do it. Is there a lot of electronics or parts that go bad inside the box? I'm pretty sure I've heard strange noises coming out of it. I don't want to fool with opening up a can of worms, I think I just need to replace mine too.
Nothing electronic in it, just a bunch of bad connections between copper bars.
Hi Florida Van Man. I have a van as per your video of the fuse box removal. My problem is the fuel pum solonoid is not getting power where is the relay for that and the fuse location? any help is fine thanks. I am competent auto spark but to do a wire trace would take a lot of time and over here in scotland I can get no wiring diagram... thanks. Tom in Ayr Scotland.
On our North American models there is a fuel pump relay under the driver seat, easily accessible from the side and accompanied by the starter relay. There is also an ignition relay on the bottom of the steering column fuse box. Three relays there can be swapped around to see if trouble moves from the start-up sequence to wipers/blinkers or high beam lights.
So that bundle on the right by itself - ignition routes through there? That would be a good spot to wire in a manual kill switch if one were to go that route, yes?
Yes, and it would.
To grate help ❤
I just pulled every fuse under the steering column and checked for continuity which they ALL had. Yet I still have NO power to the drivers window? I looked under the driver's seat and all I see is wire bundles and a couple of square looking relays I guess? Are the connections for the power to the windows under the seat?
I'm not sure but I think that is a switch issue in the driver door.
What were the SYMPTOMS that you were fixing?
Some times the van won't start. Key turns on but when you go past on to Start* nothing happens.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you. I have a 2006 118, my FAVORITE vehicle ever, that has a blown head gasket(?) 440,000 miles. Have you dealt with that. I now drive a 2020 that I almost hate. What is, on your opinion, the best year for the Sprinter? The only thing I did is 2 water pumps and breaks and belts and tensioner. Supposedly injectors need changed every 200k miles I didn't change them at 400k. Supposedly a bad one can squirt extra fuel and blow the gasket. I appreciate your channel.
@@supermankent1041 I have done head gaskets and will confirm it is not rocket science. If you can read a book and follow instructions, you can do it. You will need a torque wrench and the ones we can borrow from the auto parts store are generally abused and/or broken. You will probably have a delay waiting for some part you didn't know you needed and you will need a friend to help lift the head out of the van and put it back in. Last time I left both manifolds on the head which make it very heavy but also gave wide handles and eliminated the risk of broken studs. You will need some levers and chain or straps to break the old gasket seal and get the head up. Just lifting it without breaking loose first will require more strength than Superman Kent has. :)
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the tips.
Hello FVM, I have power draw from fuse 8 and 20 that goes to HVAC module and then power up to heater 3-way valve, and other power run goes to interior lighting this started happening suddenly , I replaced the relays on n the fuse box number 1 ,did not work, do you think its due to the fuse box itself or a short circuit somewhere else? Thanks
If I understand the description I think it is in the HVAC controller, in the dash. We had one here a few weeks ago with the REST button always on. It wouldn't even time-out as the rest feature should in 20 minutes. So his aux water pump was always powered on and worn out so didn't actually run. the dash fan resistor was also worn-out from being left always on lowest setting. He knew the fan didn't work but did not know the aux water pump was bad. That circuit being on all the time but doing nothing, cause dead battery any time he parked more than 5 or 6 hours.
I replaced the fuse box, so my power draw is down from 1.5 amp to 0.17 amp, is it an OK number?
I run my AP200 code reader and I have B1009-007 saying my Circulation Pump has short circuit to positive or open circuit. My HVAC module REST button does not illuminate when I press, is my HVAC module faulty even I asked a professional shop to check it? Or I have a short circuit?
Will this short circuit eventually damage my new fuse box again?
Thank you so much.
This doesn't sound like common issues. I'd want to get my hands on it to find out what exactly is going on. We have a video on the coolant pump in question. Search my channel for "Aux" and it will be the only video that pops up. The Aux water pump is on the firewall and used by the REST feature. I've seen that rest button become a problem that kills battery in a few hours. Perhaps a replacement HVAC control is needed or repair at ModuleRepairPro.com. I've used them a few times.@@gt500zombi
my 2006 dodge sprinter day light not working and fuse look ok, and the high beam is working. do you have any idea why my day light is not working?
There are several* fuses involved with DLR (daytime running lights). Check each fuse under the seat base ua-cam.com/video/j4lXPuaU1BM/v-deo.html
Do you think it's possible that it's just a fuse if you have power to the passenger window but not to the drivers window?
I think the passenger side window is powered through the driver side switch.
Love it! But I don't what glue you are using..... :) I have the same problem.
Any glue will do. I was using weatherstrip adhesive in this video and it has held over a year, completely forgotten.
Thank you so much@@FloridaVanMan ! You are a treasure! I've wanted a T1N for decades - finally picked up a beautiful 2004 with 112K miles in pristine condition only to have the ABS module melt.... Sat for 15 months now on it's journey back to life. You're a great help!!
I think the cut soldered wire on the ignition was evidence that at some point there was an immobilizer fitted and then removed. Just my view.
That is one very good possibility but I also see reasonable possibility someone who didn't know how to tap into the wire without cutting it did this just to add an accessory 12volt line constantly on. It would be too difficult to reach the back of the switch with solder iron, not easy this close under the column. Easier when I was younger, I suppose.
Is that brass nut important to be glued back into the location? Can I just put things together and don’t use the screw and brass nut?
Excellent. I hope I never have to do this. :)
What is the housing with two switches on the dash to the left of the fuse box?
This is a Class-C Rv. One switch starts the generator and the other bridges the house battery to engine battery.
How do you just remove one of the relays in particular the wiper relay ?
The three under the fuse box are under steering are: High-beams, ECM & hazards. The ones in the side door of the driver seat base are fuel pump and starter. The rest are under front edge of the driver seat and change location from van to van.
2004 Sprinter I believe it's under the steering column but I don't know if it just pulls out.
Pull down and forward toward the pedals, no clips or locks but they are tight.
👍👍
Do you know whats the problem in my sprinter, dashlights flashing and km/ dashboard doesent work.?
Flashing dash lights is often a failing battery. The glow plugs are a considerable draw on battery and can shut-down the computer. This shuts off the glow plugs and then the dash lights come on as the ECM reboots, but as soon as the glow plugs try to energize they overwhelm the battery again. This cycle repeats almost twice per second making the dash flash.
Another possibility is a battery isolator doing about the same thing with one or the other batteries in distress.
3:28 What kind of glue did you use?
Weather strip adhesive. It's not ideal but hasn't fallen out.
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