Double Glazing Unit Condensation / Blown DIY Repair.
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2024
- #doubleglazing #doubleglazingrepair #diydoubleglazingrepair
Double Glazing Unit Condensation / Blown DIY Repair.
In this video I repair a failed Double Glazing unit that is suffering from severe internal condensation and damp. The unit was misted in the lower portion due to the water ingress. The glazing was taken apart thoroughly cleaned and resealed this took some time (circa 4 Hours).
Thanks for watching why not Subscribe to learn of more repair possibilities do work safely, video for illustration purposes.
Timestamps :-
00:01 Removal of the failed Double Glazing Unit.
02:45 Full extent of the moisture problem and deconstruction of the double glazing unit.
04:23 Removing the excess sealant from the internal aluminium frame.
04:50 Deconstruction of the internal aluminium framework and desiccant extraction and drying out.
06:00 Cleaning the Glazing panes to the best of my ability.
07:17 Refilling the internal aluminium framework with the dried desiccant.
08:10 Cleaning the framework and reassembly tips n tricks.
09:32 Sealing the Double Glazing unit back together.
10:48 Refitting the glazing.
Its really depressing how many comments say "just go and buy a new one", *totally* missing the point. Repairing things is a great thing to do on many levels (eco, ethics quite aside from saving money) if you have the skill and inclination & no one is forcing anyone to do this against their will. Great repair well done!. I wonder if these people wash their clothes, dishes etc or just buy new ones.
Agreed 100%, the real problem is fear of this repair leading to a downturn of business for those who stand to benefit. Eco credentials are likely discarded for profit and convenience.
I’ve had the exact same problem with another video I made opening a stuck shut composite door that I strongly suspect has upset many a locksmith! They don’t want a video to be available to the masses that helps solve a costly problem they earn money from!
I wouldnt have said that, but I have to admit I had no idea they were repairable. I had a hunch that there was a dessicant in the surround, but always assumed the air gap had some specific gas or vacuum treatment to minimise the condensation. I have a couple of blown units though. Now I've seen this i will certainly take the plunge on repairing them myself
For most it basically boils down to valuing how much your time is worth? Stripping down a unit like that would probably take many about two hours to do , a new glazed unit is about £20 , so if you're time is worth more than £10 per hour you're better off buying a new unit.
Appreciate the video though, found it interesting
@@johnd6487
Bog standard double glazing now is argon filled, I just had some fitted because my old frames were falling to pieces. DG has improved but if you don't need to change them then fixing them makes sense. It takes donkeys years to get the money back, that's if you ever do before they fall to pieces again.
The problem is, we only one day per year when it's not pi55ing it down! lol
It's good to see someone actually repairing something rather than just throwing it away and buying a new replacement.
I used to make these many years ago so a couple of tips, when cleaning the sealant off use start with a new stanley knife blade to remove the bulk then brillo pads to lift the remaining old adhesive, when reassembling put the 2 panes in place with the spacer bar between and hold them in place with lots of large bulldog clips, drill a hole in a piece of wood and fit it to the end of the sealent nozzle so it fills the gap and smoothes the sealant at the same time moving the buldog clips as you go being careful not to push the spacer in with the sealant. The packers also function to hold the plastic frame square so they are usually on the hinge side at the bottom and the outside top. The dessicant doesn't just absorb water it bonds with it, you need to get it very very hot to drive the water off if its even possible, try the crystal cat litter thats in sealed poly bags and fresh. Adhesive aluminium tape will hold up to water better than duct tape and protect the sealed edges better
Thanks I will perhaps amend my technique slightly based on this information. I love the block of wood tip!
Tha what I call “nice reply”
Really useful addition. Much appreciated 👍🏽
Fascinating, I was completely lied to when I asked if I could have an extractor fan fitted in a rectangular double glazed unit. I was told no as there needs to be a vacuum between the glass!
@@Bond2025 yep thats a lie, though no one wants to make them as its awkward sealing the unit, but no, no vacuum, glass is quite bendy and a vacuum would actually have the two glass panes touching in the middle on large units, some specialist units are filled with an inert gas but tbh i doubt its more than a sales gimmick
Well done, fascinating to watch and I learned enough to know now - that I would not tackle this. As an engineer and accomplished DIY (and tight arse) I think that knowing what not to tackle is also valuable knowledge. Thank you.😉👍
Thanks, I’m glad the video proved beneficial.
Thanks I paid £170 for a panel like this to be replaced, after watching this I would be confident to do this. I don’t chase myself as a tight ass I just enjoy fixing things. As a lad I took an alarm clock apart fixed it and rebuilt it and it gave me immense pleasure. I also replaced the mineral glass in my Seiko watch with blue sapphire scratch proof glass and the aluminium bezel with a ceramic one. The next level seiko dive watch with these as standard are £300 more the upgrade cost me £35 so it’s both rewarding and saves you money. But also you can learn another skill.
@@waynetykocki3964 Well done, you will not find me knocking anyone doing this repair - I just said not for me.😉👍
I know what you mean. In my case it would either have fallen to the ground from a great height, or at leant one side would have cracked trying to get it on a large flat surface to clean it. So likely failure and a risk of injury through broken glass, then a panic trip to B&Q to get a sheet of ply cut to size to go in the frame for a week or two before the replacement unit came. Plus if warm moist air gets trapped in the air gap won’t you still get condensate within the glass on a freezing night?
@@jamesrussel1133 before you seal it heat with a hair dryer?
Some people enjoy “having a go” at mending stuff and get more pleasure than giving in and going for the easier option. Good on you for giving stuff a go.
We are too quick to send stuff to landfill etc so seems much more enviro friendly.
We live in such a throw away society.
Can see its Not an easy job, tedious and longwinded but great when you get that feeling of achievement at the end.
Well done 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
That’s exactly the spirit the video was made in and representative of the whole channel.
Last year I replaced all of my blown sealed units with new ones (about £100 each) but recently a few more have failed. I still have some of the blown units at the back of the garage kept for another project but as they are the same dimensions I intend to have a go at repairing them as I have nothing to lose but my time and sealant and good practice. If I can repair them by following all of the helpful tips, and allow me to reuse rather than recycle glass. More importantly, I now have several failed sealed units with toughened class in my conservatory and they are not as cheap (about £250 each) so I feel they are worth trying to repair. I have read additional advice from others but generally, this is a brilliant blog and with the additional tips from @AbsolemLapis and others I am feeling very positive. Again many thanks.
Best of luck with your repairs having backup glass is a major advantage well done for hoarding as it usually pays off in the long run! Skip no stages of this video and it should work out fine.
That was a fascinating and informative video. I had no idea whatever how D/G units were put together nor the fact that they could be repaired. I certainly could not tackle a job like that. I recently had a D/G unit replaced, it was about 1m x 0.75m and cost me £90.00 all in. He came and looked at the job, measured up and returned a few days later with the replacement unit and fitted it. I thought that was not a bad price. I suspect you spent quite a few hours on that job plus materials. However, as you and others have said, it's not just about money.
They can't be repaired properly like this. It WILL fail again.
@@garrett69 and who's to say the new one won't fail?
I was always lead to believe they were vacuum sealed units, amazing thanks
They are with Argon so the whole thing is useless and will mist up
@combrogi They are a dehydrated air double glazing unit.
@@TheRepairer then they're very old and inefficient
@@combrogi i mean you can get a cylinder of argon for 30 euro and its heavier than air so will displace it if filled from a small hole at top of frame which can then be sealed.
@@evamonkeyN2 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 then blow the glass unit apart
I don't understand why people go to the bother of watching a video on something they then spend time on telling you is not worth doing. He did it, he took the time to show others what's involved, someone can make there own mind up whether they want to do it. If there is additional information that can be added by commenting then this is valued, but just slagging it off as a waste of time or easier to buy a new one is completely missing the point of the video.
Having said that, any interaction on YT is power to the algorithm, but just demoralising for the creator.
You have summed things up nicely many thanks.
It is a waste of time though . Its a bad bodge . You can pretty much guarantee your windows are different to this one . The packersare in the wrong plave fora start , What if your window is not a top hung? . To buy the tools etc necessary to do this is as much as buying a replacement unit or more . Never try this unless you are experienced . This video will encourage people to open a can of worms . Its not worthwhile . Be my guest to try it , i did 30 odd years ago
@@julesdowner5585 . Your name suits you. lol
All my years looking at DIY videos on you tube this is the best by a mile, thank you very much👍
Wow, Thanks for the compliment I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Similar idea to Edward Doyle's below. I had the very same problem a few years ago. I'm a lazy person so I spent some time trying to figure out an easy way to solve it without removing the glazing unit from the window. And I did. With the side window open I removed the upper and lower locking plates in the edge of the window frame. This allowed me to see the black sealer edge of the glazing unit at the top and at the bottom. VERY carefully I drilled a hole (about 5mm) through the black sealer until the drill bit was visible between the 2 panes. I did this for the top and bottom. Then I got my vacuum cleaner and placed the hose against the top hole and let it suck away. This started removing the moist air from between the panes as dry air was sucked in through the bottom hole. After 10 minutes the water vapour was gone forever. Then I sealed the 2 holes with a sealer, and replaced the locking plates. As it happened, I did this on a sunny day when the sun was shining on the window, so that helped. Total time to do the repair was about 30 minutes.
I hope this might help someone!
An interesting repair technique, I’m really glad of worked out for you.
That sounds like a great shortcut. One thing that occured to me is that isn't the misting up caused by a breaking of the seal, therefore, unless that hole is located and sealed won't it mist up as soon as the weather turns cold? I note you said you did this several years ago, which has got me scratching my head wondering how it's lasted so long. Cheers.
@@akaWooders Must have got lucky and drilled exactly where the leak was. 😁
@@markrainford1219 😆
Rubbish .
0:07 You should stand in front of that window and point into the distance...
"Sure, I hear you're a racist now Ted". 😂😂😂
I know exactly the comedy sketch, shame there will be no more!!! I never thought of that despite editing the video and rewatching it multiple times over!
Its the Chinese he's after.
Excellent video i admire your patience and skill. It's always the so called experts who put down anyone that has a go!
Thanks, I do try to ignore the pessimism and focus of the positives to be gained.
Normally armchair experts who prefer to knock others efforts...and are probably just cack-handed, and screw up any job they attempt. Jealousy is a bitter fruit.
One bit of advice for any budding DIY'ers. When you remove the beading from around the glass, before removing the glass unit, measure it. I replace sealed units for a living. Many a time I get called out to blown units to replace with a new unit, and on trying to remove the old unit, if its stuck in fast (usually because the original fitter used tonnes of silicone, putty or even tacks to secure the unit on wooden frames) the unit can and does crack/shatter. This renders a DIY job useless and you'll end up purchasing a new unit. If this does happen, leave the old one in place, the outer pane may not have cracked until you get a new one to fit. Its reverse fitting, easy to do, make sure there are no retaining bolts sticking out of the uPVC window frame that can catch on the new unit.
I like your thinking, strangely enough measuring before removing is the last thing I’m considering at the time but it’s quick and easy and worthwhile.
Too long winded
@stellasteve9972 Are you referring to the repair technique or the video?
Kinda cool hearing how different places do stuff different in aus we dont use sillicone or putty on DGU's usually just blocks rubber n beads use sillicone for sealing float and lam tho and for sealing hackhouts to the frame instead of pack putty
This was absolutely fascinating. I had no idea these could be repaired like this. I think it is beyond my skill level however!! I also never realised there was desiccant in the units. That explains the little perforations in the aluminium I suppose.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks to this superb video, I tackled my back French door with massive success! It did take most of the day but what a difference… I can now see our back garden 😂
The worst bit was cleaning up/removing the old black sealant. I found that using a hairdryer softened it right up and it came away much faster.
Well done.
I learnt a lot from this video. My previous house had a few panels that were showing signs of blowing after probably 40 years.
I had no idea they had desiccant inside the frame, and it did not look like too difficult a task, if you are capable and patient. The panels I had were into wooden frames, it was a house built in 1890 and had been upgraded a few times since WWII, so the windows were not original and extraction of the cells would have been slightly different. They were installed with putty and sometimes beading. Thanks for the information. I like to learn at least one new thing every day and today I learnt more than usual.
I’m glad you enjoyed, Thanks for a positivity.
Just a tip for ya if ya dont already know on timber hackouts and timber bead windows its a good idea to use sillicone to seal the windows in place instead of putty as putty likes to let go as it sets i only use putty on timber and steel hackouts on the outside of the glass
As a life time repairer I appreciate the effort that went into this fix. I recently had all my hardwood windows replaced with upvc. On attempting to liberate the glass from the frames without breakage, it was near 99% failiure. They used putty to fix the dg into the frames, which turned into concrete! I also attempted to seperate the individual panes, so i know how difficult the job would be to complete without damage. Also the aluminium seperators were extremely delicate. So, you did a great job, and I hope you get 10 more years out of your repair. A follow up video would be interesting. Good luck, you got my sub...
Thank you Tim, it’s great to receive such a positive comment on this video. I can tell you that the window is still good since it’s repair in June and the other large one I did is good too. Maybe I will do a follow up video at around the one year mark, I have other panes that I first repaired in lockdown that are over 3 years old and still good. Thanks for the Sub they are all much appreciated and good luck with any future repairs!
Well done, you completely rebuilt the window. I know from experience how long it takes to separate the panes and clean them. (brake cleaner would have instantly removed the WD 40. Possibly the butyl rubber residue too?)
I'm in the process of trying something similar, but attempting to do it without dismantling the unit. I've dug an inch of rubber out of the bottom of each side and got the dessicant out.
My 'plan' is to reseal using butyl rubber glazing tape and a hot air gun, like torch-on felt roofing style. Also I do a bit of tig welding, so I've got an Argon bottle handy to Argon fill the unit while I'm at it. Never going to be as good as new, but it's an interesting exercise. (plus all my units are diamond leaded so flippin' expensive)
something I did come across while researching; the dessicant isn't like silica gel that can be dried at low heat. It's called molecular sieve 3A, and needs to be reactivated at above 121 degrees Celsius.
For future reference if you're interested, 110 litre disposable Argon bottle (Toolstation) and gas regulator (fleabay) total thirty quid.
Anyhow, fingers crossed..
I’m wishing you the best of luck with the repair, interesting about the gas I have a welder that can use it.
Very cool. Us DIYers will always find a way. Who cares if it costs more....the satisfaction is in knowing you did it yourself
I’m impressed that’s dedication to art of not being wasteful because that must have taken up a fair bit of ur time and patience for that matter but more power to u for doing so u made fine job of that repair also luv ur laid back style of speech u sound like the type of guy that is never fazed by any situation great stuff
Thanks for this video. Until I saw this I didn't realise they were repairable. Our old windows all started to blow at about the same time, they were in the house when we moved in, and I think they were about 15 years old. I replaced the whole units as they had all aged really badly, however our new windows are really nice, I think if these start to blow, I'll definitely have a go at a DIY repair, I know people say that you can just replace the blown units, but I like the idea of repairing them myself. Mind you I'm an older guy these days and come from the 'Make Do And Mend' way of life 🙂
How many people saying it’s beyond my capabilities jeez it’s not that hard ! Informative video good work 👍😊
Great video, I love "make do and mend". We waste so much these days instead of having a go!
As a Yorkshire man, this video was perfect. Just make sure you pick a dry day to do it!
Glad you enjoyed, never a truer word said regarding the dry day!
I made those in early 90s .. ohh my word I give that guy a medal for fixing it, blown one's people brought in to fix if they were small in bin, bigger ones we fixed pretty much same way. But new bars fitted with desiccant in, or new thing called swiggle strip that was hopeless..
Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed reading that.
Wow! I learned a lot there. Last year, I purchased replacement sealed units. I had no idea I could have done this. Definitely going to give it a go as I have another one gone. Thank you. 👍
Thanks Brian, I wish you the best of look with the refurb, just allow plenty of time and tool up well. The video is 4 hours worth of my labour and its not my first window!
@@TheRepairer add the cost of the sealant, makes you wonder if it is cheaper just to get it replaced. Not that I don’t think what you did it an admirable piece of work
It all cost less than £10
You can't do this unless you are extremely lucky . . Please do not attempt it. You can do more damage than you started with .
@@TheRepairerNot when you consider the labour costs. False economy.
Great video, thanks. How great to see someone skilfully fix rather than scrap and replace.
Hi, very good video & perfect work - i had a similar problem with two of my windows - lots of water / moisture between the two window panes & just out of guarantee - fortunately for me they were of the opening type window - i cleaned out the drain vents at the bottom of the outer frame’s & used a vacuum cleaner on them to make sure they were free. I then drilled two 4mm holes up at the bottom of the main window frame up between the glass panes & one 4mm hole near the top on both side’s again between the glass panes.
I put a short length of tube ( earth sleeving ) on the vacuum cleaner , removed all the water & left to to air dry.
That was last year - no more water or moisture - apart from just a couple of white plastic flakes that fell inside.
Ed,
That’s an interesting repair thanks for sharing , I did hear of company that drilled holes and filled them with vent plugs.
Thank for your videos. Gave it a go and happy with the result. Just make sure you really clean the glass that will be inside the seal. Rinse several times to get all the cleaning chemicals off the glass or they may appear a couple of days after the unit is in the frame. This happened to me after the wife cleaned the glass and insisted the small streaks are not cleaning chemicals and that the glass is damaged. I will now repeat the repair on the same unit and clean the glass myself to see if the glass expert is right😂 I will let you the outcome when I get it done.
The time v buy new isn’t the issue for me. I really enjoy the satisfaction of doing things myself and learning new skills. Once again thanks for the video one of the best on UA-cam on this subject.
Thanks for the feedback, I am wired that same way. I could buy new but where is the fun in that. I’m pleased that you have successfully repaired your window.
Nice! Give people the knowledge so they can choose to do their own repairs. Given the times we live in, I think more people will move back to basics and save money by doing their own repairs.
Thanks I agree wholeheartedly.
This is a bodge. Its a can of worms . If you are not experienced then do not attempt this please . Its an awful video
Brilliant - and saves glass going to landfill, have read elsewhere desiccant can cause unremoveable streaking,
why don't professionals do this or would that hit DG industry profits? new panes are filled with argon but I guess
that inevitably leaks out due to fluctuations in atmospheric pressure.
Profits and convenience are my best guess.
Good video, and well done you for giving it a go. If time is money, then a new sealed unit is the way to go, but there are plenty out there who have time on their hands, or no money - in which case this is for you. All I would add is that I would have a piece of sterling board or similar to hand in case I cracked the glass. The glass and the aluminium spacer will expand and contract at different rates with temperature changes, so use a low-modulus silicone, which allows the glass and spacer to move against each other without breaking the seal. Make sure there are packers underneath the glass so that the units never have to stand in water. Also try and do it on a cold dry day so that the air that gets sealed inside will be dry, giving the desicant less work to do. Avoid hot humid days! If it works, you've saved a considerable amount of money. If it doesn't, you're down to the tune of one tube of sealant, and we've all got a bit of gash sterling board lying around, and regardless of whether it works or not, you'll have learned something new. If you don't have a go, you've learned nothing. Now wait for those who have trolled this thread multiple times at every opportunity to wade in!!
I get much pleasure from finding low cost solutions for problems even though I don’t need too!
All I need to repair 3 units in conservatory.. a big thank you.. just waiting for a dry sunny day!
Best of luck with your repairs.I too hope the weather comes good very soon.
Thank you very much, practical and detailed without the waffle that so many seem to put into this kind of instructional video, well done.
I’m glad you enjoyed it, Thanks
Its a bad bodge . Never attempt this .
Brilliant instructive video. Going to have a go at one of mine, thanks to you Sir. Peace and goodwill.
Thanks, take time and be thorough for best results.
Great to see this. I never realized there was anything inside the frame.
I understand the glazing desiccant is there to absorb any moisture from the manufacturing process.
a man who knows his trade,top skills .thank you,ihave several to do that i installed 20 years ago.
I’m winging it really, but I got a result!
That “window tool” is literally for painting, it’s a painters tool and it’s awesome for everything!
It is a multi purpose tool it can even be used for de nailing.
@@TheRepairer I love mine, use it for literally everything! Purdy make a very good 6 in 1 Painter’s Tool & a 10 in 1 Multi Tool they’re great quality too!
The curved part is for cleaning paint rollers and it works a treat.
great job just taking your time it can be done its recycling🙂
Thanks, I will chose to recycle every time and will probably never need to darken a glaziers door again with this issue!
I recently changed 3 condensated units myself, I paid £110 for 2 comparable units to yours and a 1.5m x 1m unit. Whilst it wasn't a bad price, I still have some small openers that were expensive to replace because of the custom design and I think I will try this repair in the summer.
The glazing supplier did deliver the units, but I had to dispose of the old units and that is easier said than done, my local recycling centre refused them and I had to travel 30 miles to go to a site willing to accept them.
That’s quite a good price from the information I have received via the comments on this video, better than I expected. It’s disappointing that the recycling centres are being awkward regarding disposal. Good luck with your future repairs.
@@TheRepairer We have several manufacturers locally, so I go direct to them. No doubt the people here are paying for someone to come out and measure them.
As long as you remove the trim to expose the unit and measure exactly, you will be fine.
Thanks for this very interesting, I watched it even though I don't have any blown double glazing units!
Your not the only one that does things like that, incase your wondering I have done similar.
Good work. I've made and fitted DG units and also split them to reuse the glass etc. Some sealants are very difficult to cut and remove but it's worth a go. Save money, save materials and get satisfaction from doing the job.
Thanks it’s good to hear from someone with industry experience that’s in favour of these diy repair techniques.
I have six to do. all about the same size as yours. I am also tight as they come, I also have lots of time on my hands. Because I am so tight I have been able to retire early, Thanks for the tips.
You’re most welcome, best of luck.
As a retired Glazier with over 35 years experience, I can honestly say I would be surprised if that repair lasted a year using silicone to seal it and reusing dried desicant. To be honest you were lucky not braking at least 1 of the panes getting it apart.
I did my best to avoid breakage’s.
20yrs service Engineer fitter. I agree. So much more to criticise here. The packing just for starters. See other comment.
Syndicalist minded people always feel hurt when someone competent achieves success.
Thanks I gave it my best shot!
Interesting, but a new sealed unit that size isnt that expensive...
Brilliant video, thank you for sharing. I will be trying this on two blown windows when the weather gets better. 👍🏼
Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your repair.
Nice job! I'm surprised you were able to get the inner beads off without first removing the outer seals - I found it to be impossible to do without doing this first. It seems that south facing windows seem to suffer this problem the most - I had 6 or 7 panes with condensation like this, all south facing and ended up going down the replacement route (bungalow with around 30 units in total!) albeit did it myself - the new glazing has a u-value that is around half of the old panes and argon filled so far better thermal insulation, though I expect a similar lifespan - it's a tough dilemma as the glass itself is fine, the weakness is in the seal and the dessicant which fails after around 10 years but the difference in thermal efficiency has been amazing - I still have all the old units and hope to be able to re-purpose them either into a project or for someone else - it's the glass that has the highest embedded energy after all...
I think you could be onto something with the south facing failures!
It all depends on how the unit is glazed. Some of the older windows are glazed without gaskets, then a wedge gasket is pushed in after the beads are on. More modern windows have a co-extruded gasket on the frame and beads. Not all window systems are the same, some have a double fin bead, but again the more modern ones have a single fin bead system.
That's brilliant, just takes care, time and some fine weather. 👍
Fine weather is super important.
Sometimes £50-£99 is NOT cheap! As a family who have moved a dozen times, we always called a glazier when the panels ‘blew’ BUT due to energy AND fuel costs etc., we are just accepting the fact that the couple of failed panels we have at the moment will be there for the foreseeable future. We aren’t brave enough to try to mend them ourselves in case we make the problem worse.
That's me. I don't think a blown window has less insulation properties. Perhaps allow more noise though.
Not an option I would choose, but great to have the knowledge out there.
Demystified double glazed units in more than one way. The vinegar and bicarb acts as a very good degreasant for the WD40. The application of the silicone, as you did- the careful pushing of the sealant into the joint after thorough cleaning of all surfaces, will seal the units for a good long time. Obviously if someone is tempted to simply trowel the wet silicone edges then they can expect failures as the retired glazier suggested. Re-using desiccant is done extensively in science- there's no magic to it- though do it for longer than the simple appearance of whiteness to ensure all interior moisture has been driven off.
I’m impressed you have paid so much attention to detail. It’s really good to receive such a positive comment from a fellow believer in the repair process.
Good job. After this winter I have plenty windows that went foggy :/ it seems like I will have a lot of work when it will get warmer. Thanks for the tutorial!
Your welcome, Good luck with your repairs.
I always thought that the two glass panes had the air sucked out of the void between them before they were sealed at the factory - ie that there is a vacuum between the panes, so this was an eye opener. If it wasn't October I would be tempted to try this on one of our blown ones.
The weather does need to be onside, I have waited weeks to find the perfect day when I am available to do this and the weather is bone dry! I had to do the last one indoors because the weather app lied to me and it rained!
You can get sealed units like that, failed seals, when air laden with moisture gets inside, that’s when condensation occurs.
You could purge fill them with argon, which is what most have from factory.
I never knew they could be fixed. We need to fix/replace a load of them…. Big and heavy so a bit above my pay grade unfortunately, but thanks for this great video!
Wow very impressive technique and video but it looks like many hours of work. I think I would just get a replacement sealed unit. Thanks for posting.
Great point!
Was considering attempting this myself. After seeing time invested ive realised i could do a few hours of overtime of something i enjoy instead of this. Appreciated.
A good job well done and very well explained, you've clearly saved yourself a lot of money and avoided the unit having to be destroyed for recycling. The fizzing you saw with the Vinegar and Soda Bicarb was the reaction between Acetic acid (from the vinegar) and the bicarb which releases Carbon Dioxide. Did you consider using a household detergent (eg washing up liquid) to remove the traces of WD40? Once again thanks very much - it's useful😊 to know that that can be done.
I didn’t consider a detergent as the white vinegar seemed to eradicate all traces of it after the multiple passes that were required to clean up the window panes.
Its a bodge , , a dreadful video made by someone who isn't trade and seen by people without a cluev. Never attempt this, it is pointless unless your window is in a shed . Get a new one made and fit it yourself , Which is a lottery in itself
Wow. I never knew that there was dessicant in the frame. Nice job. I will deffo have a go at that when the inevitable happens.
Best of luck with it.
Absolutely love the enthusiasm and work ethic to get that fixed
But that being said £40 for a new unit that size is much easier for the amount of time and effort to split a unit down … nice work tho mate ..
Fair enough!
@@TheRepairer £40 for a new unit of that size, you can put a 100 in front of that 40 if not more +vat
Definitely not £40 haha way more
It will more than likely be a window fitter with trade connections and prices that came up with that low figure there are multiple similar comments on this video that have estimated the unit replacement price as low as £20.
@@TheRepairer how has the repair held up? Any defects since?. Planning on giving it a whirl.
Great stuff, just what I was looking for. Thank you The Reairer 😇
Thanks.
very interesting but inst the whole point of double glazing is there is argon gas inside the void that makes the window thermally efficient?
Argon is some but dried air is more common.
Don't if i will ever do this but really happy to know how it's done thanks mate.
Repairs like this won’t last, 25 years experience taught me that!
The original factory window unit didn’t last either, hence the repair!
You are correct , its a bad bodge video . Anyone in the trade will tell you . I wouldn't reccomend anyone even take the glass out for they may do more damage to the window!
@@julesdowner5585Yeh well. If it breaks, then just buy a new one anyway. It’s not a bad bodge. The water in the frame is gone!
Nice work. The maintenanc contract on my flats I have to go to a specific window replacement company. Replacement units £200 ,+ vat a pop. I always thought there was a vacuum or a special gas between the glass to stop the condensation ! I always believed the repair beyond me, so unhappily paid the £200 ,+ vat. Could never understand why they weren't repaired!
Because they are only twenty quid to make.
That’s costly at £240 a shot inc vat, glad you enjoyed the video.
A great practical guide, well done.
Glad you enjoyed it!
i did a similar thing on a curved 2 meter tall toughned unit the art deco look , on the corner of a porch as replacement cost was highly prohibitive ,, took me 3 days , used black lmn silicone , pumped in behind a 3 inch strip of 5 mill ali ,, replaced the dessicant tho ,, , but well worth the saving of 2500 quid for a new bespoke curved unit , still going good 5 years later ,
Well done for taking the initiative and using your DIY skills to avoid lining the glaziers pockets. I bet every time you look at that window you can do so with a sense of pride and achievement that you wouldn’t have got if the curved window had been renewed, that’s 3 days we’ll spend in my book!
I used to be a window fitter commercial n domestic. And I've seen sealed units being made ...Youre video was very good. Would give people the confidence to try it themselves I'd also use new desiccant (Silica balls that absorb water and moisture).Im pretty sure that once they reach the end of their life that's it. You're heating method would work for a short period. Hope u don't mind me saying that. Because I'm not knocking what u did .Just trying to help is all
Your opinions are appreciated and valued,many thanks.
Thanks
@@TheRepaireri think there is nothing wrong with the oven drying of the dessicant. Years ago, i worked in a chemistry lab which did gas chromatography and one of the things we needed to do was to dry the compressed air from a Compressor. To do that the air was filtered through molecular sieve cartridges which contained the same stuff as is used in the double glazing. We used to recondition it by drying in an oven overnight and repacking the cartridges. It was the recommended procedure and worked fine.
Its a rubbish video, did you notice its a tilt and turn window?
I'm a Carpenter, and thanks for this information. I did not know you could do this. As I thought they were gas sealed
That is just a basic dehydrated unit the high end stuff can be gas filled.
Yowtyowb worked out I needed to see this. Literally about to order a few panels! Ta very much
Your welcome
Thanks pal. Good vid. I have lots of time but not much cash so now with this knowledge i will try to do the same so that i dont freeze this winter.
Wishing you the best of luck
Very watchable video BUT what did you do about the vacuum between the two panes? Double glazing is an effective insulator and gets it's strength from the vacuum between the two panes making it as if the void was a single solid thickness from the inside to the outside. By not creating a vacuum your u-value (insulation measurement scale) will be extremely poor, costing more in heating and noise transference. Likewise, it will be massively weaker if struck by a ball or a burglar. As I say, respect for having a go but unfortunately on this occasion, missed the mark significantly.
It’s not vacuum double glazing (VIG) just a standard double glazing unit consisting of dried air as the insulator.
@@TheRepairerwell bugger me, I was under the impression all double glazing had a vacuum ! I'd been trying to work out if there was an easy way to emulate it (at least partially), perhaps by sealing all but one small section, then heating the glass (hair dryer) to expand the air inside (which would vent out of the opening), then sealing the gap before it cooled down.
@@colinwilson210put argon gas between the panes.
I used to work in a glazing factory 30 yrs ago,we used a scraper to apply sealant into edges of sealed unit.
A scraper would have been better.
Thank you. Helpful video to inform me that I will replace rather than repair my failed double glazed window units!😂
Hats off to you for the effort though, good result in the end 👏🏻
You are welcome.
Good Job, I learned a lot. Now I will try to fix one of my windows that has condensation. Thanks again
Good luck.
Great video and fair play for a good result. I have to be honest, the best advice was how to remove and fit the pane, if you order just a replacement pane through a glass wholesaler you'll save a fortune! The rest is a bit hardcore, to many ways for me to make a mess of it 🙂
Glad you enjoyed, Thanks
Great job. Way too much involved for my limited skills and patience but nice to see.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent - well done. Where's there's a will - there's a way.
So true
No where's there a will there's a relative 😂
@@michaelfrench5252 Good one Mike! :)
Just a tip on cleaning glass where you want to minimise residue. Do a final flush with distilled water. You can get a 10 liter container from a pharmacy for not much money. It will dry completely clear and leave no residue behind.
I never knew that, thanks for sharing.
This wouldnt work for low e-glass as you would remove the coating from the glass. Fair play for fixing your own window though. A new argon filled unit of that size would be around £80.
I’m now reading up on low e-glass, thanks for making me aware of it.
Surely it would still work, just not be as efficient as the original, but of course still an improvement on the blown unit
@@markthomasson5077 One of the manufacturing processes of low e-glass is a microscopic, almost transparent coating on the inside of the glass surface. If this were to get rubbed or scratched off, this would be like having scratched sun glasses. Not great, but yes- still usable.
The bigger problem would be the thermal conductivity of the unit. My old 20mm double glazed units had a U value of 2. A new low e-glass argon filled unit near a u value of 1. In layman’s terms, a new unit is 100% more efficient at keeping the heat in your home (heat loss through the glass).
I worked out that the cost of replacing my windows myself had a payback of 10 year (less if yyou take into account compound interest on savings and ever increasing fuel bills).
@@garyherberson8119 surely the low U value comes from the inert gas filling rather than the tint preventing solar gain?
There are two types of low E coating. A soft one which is easily scratched and a very hard one which is baked into the glass at very high temperature. Argon has no connection with low E, it just increases the thermal insulation compared to air fill.
Where i worked after sealant had gone off overnight we unclipped the units and used a stanley blade scraper to take off any excess from the units and fine wire wool then we taped the units up with aluminium foil tape to save cut fingers
Fantastic job sir.
I’ve worked in this industry for years and didn’t know about the desiccant in the spacer 😂
I’m glad you enjoyed.
GREAT INFO , MANY WILL NEED TO KNOW THIS IN THE FUTURE. THANKS
Nice job! I admire your tenacity!
Thank you very much!
Use Brasso (small tin) to remove the adhesive/silicone residue. Cheap and available in Tesco (cleaning product section). VERY efficient. Does not harm the glass at all. Saves your wd-40 aswell.
Rubbing alcohol works quite well too I have found.
@@TheRepairer It does work however the alcohol drying up fast and constant rubbing is not as efficient as the Brasso. Brasso is oil based cotton wool and you wont need to rub much. I use it for various adhesives and works like magic. Hope it helps!
@moeali5118 Thanks I would have never thought to use Brasso.
Respect mate, fantastic job fearlessly taken on. I was astonished when you started to dismantle the whole thing. How long did it take in total?
Thanks, the job took around four hours done at a leisurely pace with a couple of tea breaks thrown in!
@TheRepairer Yeah, that's where most would lose patients & just buy one, because they would assume, it might only take time of the video + the drying out time in the oven.
Hello Round Brands!
Haha... 👍😉👍
Yes I know someone who used assume the length of the video was the time it took to do the job! When making videos you have to consider the attention spans of the viewers some are surprisingly short!
@@TheRepairer Indeed, Indeed 👍😉😁😉👍
Wow been wondering y the condensation in my front window duz that well now a no tip top job 👍
Far easier just to replace with new unit and could be dangerous for someone who is not working with glass on regular basis.
You could make this a new video for the Edward Murdoch repair channel just to show how much easier it is.
@@detiex5576 Having worked with dg units on many occasions and seen them breaking for no apparent reason I would rather not. 🤷♂️
If glass is toughened could shatter just with sharp blade or a little bang on the edge with your metal utensil. Wouldn't advise this repair tbh
IMHO it’s not worth risking do this I worked I. The double glazing industry for over 30years .My advice is DONT TRY THIS .just buy a replacement unit. .
A balanced comments section is most valued, thanks for taking the time to communicate.
Thanks for freely sharing your knowledge.👍
My pleasure!
Fair play for your skill level but a replacement unit would be around £40 and can be replaced in just a few minutes. Depends if you value your time more than £40 for a few hours I guess.
Sometimes the excitement of the chase combined with a good degree of curiosity can outweigh the economics of replacement.
Think you could spend just as long looking trying to find a cheap deal with a product that matches then installation etc, I have the same problem in my Kitchen for a much larger window that's not so easily replaced.
£40? Do you live up north because London would be £100 (at least) and online £80
@@garyherberson8119 I’m out of date then as I replaced mine 3 years ago and they were cheaper. I’m in Cornwall.
You are obviously not retired. When you are, you will be more than happy to spend a lot of your time saving money you haven't got.
I’d never even thought to repair them , looks pretty straight forward and I’ll try on a couple of mine . One thing though , I think using your thumb to press in the sealant is just asking for a cut thumb . Either a good glove or better still , create a tool of some kind for a pro finish and a happy thumb .
Your right about the thumb, I shouldn’t have done that as glass can be sharp, fortunately this pane wasn’t but others if repaired since have been. Thanks for viewing and taking the time to comment.
How well will they perform though? I thought double glazed units are filled with a gas or vacuum to create a barrier. Obviously this isn’t possible repairing them like this. Great video.
Thanks, I did a couple at least two years ago and they are still good and dry.
Do you get condensation in the winter?
No they are both good
Thanks. I’m going to give this a go. 👍
Some expensive ones are argon filled but there is no vacuum. The trick is in the gap size of 12-16mm which prevents convection currents forming in the trapped air.
That's what I heard anyway!
This is great, makes me mad when ppl don’t try to fix stuff instead of “just buy a new one” thank you for taking the time to show us👍
I get lots of it, having a repair channel,thanks for your positive comment.
@@TheRepairer my very first thought when needing to know how to fix stuff is from ppl like you on UA-cam, it's sad that we live in a "throw-away"society.
Its a bodge , do not even attempt this please .
@@julesdowner5585 why, what's so wrong with it?
@@gasgiant7122 There's no gas between the two pieces of glass, reducing the insulation. The dried out desiccant won't last as long as when it was new and the silicone sealant isn't as good as what was originally used in the factory.
11/10 for effort, but I don’t think this is a good idea on many levels. High chance of glass breakage. Tape is applied to the perimeter of float glass because of the sharp edges, so you really don’t want to wipe your fingers around the edges. Glass isn’t packed properly, should be heel & toed, and stood on bridging packers. I’m doubtful this ‘remedy’ will pass the test of time. Buy a new unit & have a warranty on it.
A balanced comments section is most valued, thanks for taking the time to communicate.
Heel and toed 😂😂😂😂
If it breaks, then buy a new one anyway. Worth trying out. The manufacturers one didn’t stand the test of time either. If it lasts a couple years, perfect.
As a local repair company I would join the "buy a new one" club. Time is money and cheaper to buy new glass and fit.
Time is always money and can be directly exchanged for cash in the form of employment and so choices are made amongst dilemmas that present themselves in the course our lifetime. Thanks for the appraisal.
I have never seen anything like it! People: don't do this. It won't last 5 minutes!
Feel free to elaborate further.
@@TheRepairer 1. A properly made insulating glazing unit has a primary and a secondary seal. The primary seal is there to seal the cavity and keep moisture out of the unit. The secondary seal (in the place where you put the silicone in the video) is designed to hold the igu together while allowing expansion and contraction as occurs naturally. Your unit has no primary (moisture) seal. The silicone might hold the unit together, but it would need to be applied properly. Your technique of pushing the tube behing the silicone flow will result in air bubbles and an inconsistent fill.
2. If your igu had a coating inside, you would have damaged it while cleaning it. These things cannot be done by hand when dealing with such complex products. The use of an acetoxy silicone would also have damaged the coating and may be incompatible with the aluminium spacer tube.
3. Your cleaning process could not have ensured that there are no airborne contaminants or worse, organic particles inside the cavity which could start to grow once you "seal" them in: especially since your lack of primary seal will likely allow moisture into the cavity in short order. Of course, you might get lucky.
I worked in the glass industry for 26 years and have seen thousands of units made. If you visit an igu manufacturing facility you will see exactly what I am talking about. The level of investment they make in high quality sealants and the machinery to manufacture igus is testament to the need for absolute cleanliness and attention to detail.
The process of making (or remaking) an Insulating Glazing Unit is far too complex to be udertaken at home if you want it to last.
Better put, but I’ll gamble on doing the job for less than a tenner!
@@donkeytrousersthe guy literally did it. And he’s done it before saying its lasted a couple years so far with no issues.
Sure things can go wrong, but no harm in trying. More fun too.
Just refurbed mine and after parting the glass from the sealant l used a multi tool to remove majority of sealant then a blow torch to melt the remaining and scrape it off. I found this the easiest way. I also turned the glass inside out because if you don’t get the glass perfectly clean 1st time once it’s back together you’re fucked at least if it’s on the outside easy to clean! I also used double sticky back tape to seal the spacer to the glass. Otherwise thanks for the video to give me confidence to have a go 👍
Well done.
I’m pretty sure I would have moved me car before taking the glass out… just in case..!
The car wasn’t directly beneath the window it must just look like that in the video!
I never thought about doing this, but I have a misted fanlight at the moment so will be giving this a go. I hope your pane was a success and is still mist free.
Best of luck and yes it is still mist free.
As a qualified Professional Glazier of 45 years at the trade , No way would I recommend anyone trying this unless you know what you’re doing !!
Why?
No harm in me trying to give someone a piece of advice , sorry I offended someone of your esteemed knowledge in all types of craft and skills , won’t happen again , ( just scroll past me in future 👍)
Superb job
A lot of effort has paid off here
Well done 👍