As a window fitter we had a well educated lady who complained that her new double glazed widows were attracting condensation. We explained that the condensation was caused by moisture in the air and previously the moist air had escaped via the draughty old window. She assured me that wasn’t true and that the air was so dry she had to put wet towels on the radiator at night … 🤷🏻♂️
@@SkillBuilder not relevant to this, but we also had another customer who insisted that there was a draft coming through the glass on his patio door. He actually pointed to the spot in the centre of the double glazed unit where he insisted the draft was coming through.
I’ve lived in a studio flat for 30 years. Used to have terrible condensation on the old single glazed wooden windows. Replaced them with double glazing. This reduced the problem by about 50%. I tried dehumidifiers and all sorts to no avail. Then someone suggested I leave a small gap in my curtains when I draw them at night and lo and behold the problem vanished. Closing the curtains completely may save you money on the heating but it creates the perfect cold spot for moisture to condense.
I use govee hygrometers. They are $12 connect to your phone to give you a graph. They have one with a screen that takes AA batteries. Rechargeables work well with them. Having a bunch of these has given me a lot of insight into my home.
@@VanyaYaniwe have a new, very airtight, house. We did this with constant fans with humidistat to increase power of extraction when necessary. Such a difference.
A dehumidifier is a total game changer. No more black mould, nor wet glass in the mornings. Also, less humid air is easier to heat and feels warmer than humid.
We have a very small 5L dehumidifier which is enough to keep our upstairs moisture at bay. We run it nightly during winter for 3hrs. We also open windows in the 10-15mins before leaving the house as we are getting ready (even if it's freezing outside) just to let some fresh air in. It's helped greatly over the last couple of winters.
@@Stefan_Van_pellicom My dehumidifier has setting for humidity. I would set it at 55 - 60% and it would keep the humidity at that level and it automatically shut off and on as necessary.
A dehumidifier, as you say is the answer. We have one and it's one of the best things we have ever bought. The house feels warmer as well when we have our heating on.
stoßlüften - shock ventilation. Its drilled into every German person to open the windows a few times per day to exchange the air. No matter if it is minus temperatures outside you open the windows for a few minutes.
You need proper ventilation continuously. Just keep a few trickle vents open and you're sorted, permanently. No need to let all the heat out two, three times a day and no need to sit in increasingly stale air in a tightly sealed house because it's not time for lüften yet. Also, when you run an extraction hood in the kitchen or mechanical ventilation in the bathroom, there does need to be air coming into the house to make that work properly, which will be no problem if you have trickle vents open.
And the German government is so desperate for people to stop doing this that it's running information campaigns to stop it because of the amount of energy it uses to heat everyone's house back up. Proper ventilation isn't opening every window and freezing 🥶
@@Welgeldiguniekaliasthe amount of heat lost through this shock method is less than you might think - as the mass of the building (e.g. walls) is still warm, and will reradiate heat to the new cool air quickly.
@@Coherers Can't remember the exact amount, but it's pennies per day. Was quoted north of £950 to supply and fit by a damp proof company. Any half competent diyer should be able to tackle it. We'll see how it goes long term.
We have a 1935, 5 bedroom house with good draft-proofing, insulation and double-glazing. Surely a prime target for condensation? Even in mid-winter we have a short period daily (maybe 30 to 45 mins) when there is a through-draft through all rooms. We open windows front and back and don't over-heat the rooms. The bathroom window is opened an inch or so after showering and walls above the bath wiped dry after use. For some areas we use those interior dehumidifier tubs, especially inside cupboards and on top of wall units. Also remembering to empty them regularly and refill from time to time with readily available gel crystals. The nett result is a house devoid of condensation apart from the bedroom windows in deep winter where the slight condensation is easy to wipe off with a towel. We grew up on the south coast in the 1950s when houses were largely unheated and bedroom windows were often covered in ice on the inside. In our 1970s student accommodation, the toilet often froze over so the first to use it had to melt a hole using body-heated fluid. It did mean solids were awkward if you were the first of the day.
We purchased a condensing dehumidifier just before Christmas but it was so efficient it was chucking out cold air. So I swapped it for a desiccant dehumidifier and it’s been a game changer. I run it most of the day in the living room (where I work) and it heats the room very efficiently and I haven’t had condensation on the windows all winter. Very happy with it. Apparently, having less moisture in the air makes the heating more efficient as you’re not having to heat the moisture.
Dehumidifiers can't cool the air. That's impossible. The air coming out is usually about 2°C warmer when the compressor is on. Maybe just windchill effect makes it feel cold or maybe circulating air past a cold spot. Dessicant dehumidifiers use a heater to dry the dessicant hence they are warmer. Plus they tend to pull more power.
@@phil955i Maybe not, but mine does and I’m very much enjoying the benefit of it. Plus, I don’t have condensation on the windows any more. And it’s cheaper than running a normal electric heater and more effective than our crappy central heating.
I get condensation on my bedroom window when the outside temperature drops to freezing or just a few degrees above. I use a window vacuum to deal with the problem when I get up in the morning. Quick easy, no messing with rolls of paper towel or soaking wet cloths. Problem solved.
A person will create about 130ml of water during 8 hours sleep just by breathing. Once that moisture hits the coldest surface in a room condensation is created. The cheapest cure is to simply hold your breath for 8 hours😂
@@pjgtechYou necessarily need more ventilation. You need something that will take the moisture out of the air, whether that be ventilation or dehumidification.
@@Middledistance100 i built a DIY condensator cold plate i place on my windowsill, the ambient outside air cools the plate and moisture dews on that instead of anywhere else , basicallyl its a PASSIVE dehumidifer
I installed the Wickes whole house ventilation system 35 years ago in my house soon after moving in. Excessive condensation was fixed everywhere including on the then single glazing and the house has a very healthy feel. I have changed the fans 3 times in that period. The system has a heat exchanger in the loft. It takes hot damp air from the kitchen and bathroom, and passes it through the heat exchanger. Fresh air from outside is passed through the heat exchange where it is warmed up by the outgoing air, and is distributed to all the bedrooms and lounge. No need ever to open windows in the winter. It works like magic. Yes I know not every house can easily be fitted with such a system. Such systems should be standard on all new-built IMHO.
Good topic Roger. Everyone would have to stop breathing to prevent condensation in the bedroom. As an alternative, I run a dehumidifier on 'low' for 12hrs during daytime for 6 months of the year (Winter/Spring). It not only prevents condensation & mould, but keeps bedlinen, clothes and carpets fresh. It might sound an expensive process, but when considering the damage that damp & mould can do to building fabric, clothes & health, it's a no-brainer. I'm not a great fan of throwing a window open of a nightime in Winter, simply from the point of view of losing that expensively produced heat (and letting in more damp air from the constant rain!).
Had the exact same issue, our bedroom always the worst condensation. This winter I put a dehumidifier on the landing and vented it outside, fixed the problem. However... Noisy! So I turned it into fan mode with it still venting outside, that also fixed the issue! I have also tired just running a normal tower fan on at night, worked as well, still a small punt of condensation at the bottom of the windows but not like before when the entire window was covered. We also always keep the small windows on the second latch to keep fresh air moving. I am looking at maybe trying a PIV unit as that would be even quieter. In my experience, these rooms just need air circulation.
As a bathroom fitter, I get to see ALL the misunderstandings of condensation and mould growth. Nine times out of ten, it’s lifestyle that creates these issues.
@@kenhickford6581 many times there is insulation defects, ventilation defects that I find are are the most common cause. If people don’t have the equipment to test to prove there is an issue they would never know 👍
Nice video thanx. As an ex surveyor of 30 years, theres only a few things you can do to reduce or remove condensation, That is firstly to decrease moisture production (difficult to do as you have to breath, wash, cook, etc). Secondly to increase heating, ventilation and insulation. If the rooms to cold moisture will condense, if there no ventilation, the moisture can't escape. If the insulation is lacking, there is more likelyhood of condensation occurring. If no vents, add trickle vent to window, or air vent to wall or extractor fan if bathroom/kitchen. Ensure rads are working and large enough for the room. Ensure any cold bridges are insulated, especially around doors, windows, flat roofs, etc. If a room has more external walls, eg: an added rear or side extension, it may have more external walls, so larger surface area of potential cold surfaces. There are lots of heat recovery / auto air vents / extraction units available now too. Lots to think about.....
I live in a 3 bed bungalow where condensation was a problem due to insulation etc, been in the H&V trade for over 40yrs fitted a Nuaire DRIMASTER ECO Link PIV Unit problem solved overnight. I would install one of these before a dehumidifier.
If you are going to go down the route of a dehumidifier, would strongly recommend a dessicant one and not a compressor type. More efficient in colder temps and it produces a bit of heat too, so all that electricity being used to run it is doing some other good too. But yeah, opening the windows first thing, making sure that bedroom door is always open in the day, and ultimately just biting the bullet and getting piv or mvhr (even a single room jobby elsewhere in the property on trickle mode all the time) will all help. Forget those pound shop window things. Also make sure air bricks/vents are clear. When i lived in a new build flat mine were taped in polythene!!
I had water running off bedroom windows, bought a window vac it was so bad also running off the front door skirting that had rusty nails leaching out, after watching your channel some time back I bought a PIV best money ever spent Gone overnight the first night after fitting, Brilliant bit of kit and must be healthier.
I put an exhaust fan that heat exchanged the warm air going out of the upstairs bed rooms, a bit of 5 inch flexible pipe with heat exchanger box fitted in the roof, a few inlet and outlet airflow adjustable vents, with the heat exchanger, controlled by a Humidity stat switching the fan to a higher speed at 80% humidity. returning to a lower speed when the Humidity returns to Circa 75% It runs 24/7 and has done the trick for me. We lived in an old Mews house with fitted double glazing also. The box is suspended from the rafters to avoid any noise, and runs with very little noise too. We get a slight amount on water on the bottom window sill, but nothing like we had before. Heat exchanger and pipe and pipe fittings and Humidity stat can be bought from eBay, I spent about £200.00, We have nice fresh air all day and night. We had LPG Central heating and hot water, with a 10kW multi fuel burner. Cozy. As you said the condensation comes from breathing at night whilst asleep, and also drying clothes in the house over night. Along with the steam moisture from cooking.
I live in a 60s house. When it's below 3 outside, overnight any occupied rooms gets DRENCHED. It has spots on the walls and ceilings, windows are soaked. I used to just window vac the windows every morning but it'd fill the karcher's tank twice a day. EVEN WITH THE WINDOW OPEN. I got a thermometer with built in dehumidifier and noticed the humidity level was 70%+ these days. Dehumidifier on overnight keeping it below 60% = problem solved, costs about 20p a night. (Plus I'm told mould doesn't grow until 68% humidity, so it's stopped my mould issue above the window)
@@Your_username_ literally nothing. No vent in the kitchen, bathroom. Nothing in the loft. Fortunately it's a small flat so the dehumidifier can handle it when needed but with the windows open there's usually not a problem, just when it gets /real/ cold I need to close the windows and put the dehumidifier on. I got a probreeze 12l model in a sale for about £130. 150-200watts of power draw but it cycles on and off so averages 70-100w. 2p an hour even at the current horrible UK rates.
@@MikaMikaMika89 Assuming the apartment is not in original condition, it seems to me that the renovators forgot to enhance the ventilation system while changing windows thus making it less breathable.
@@Your_username_ my current landlady would probably OK me putting vents in, but for now there are no problems and I'm not worried about it. I wouldn't like the drop in soundproofing. (Autistic and a bit grumpy about that stuff and boy do I have some music loving neighbors at times)
Thank you for common sense video. Cold bridging and condensation are simply two sides of the same coin - there is warm moist air hitting a cold surface is the problem, the solution is always to do the best to remove the moisture first
My late father in law worked for a well known double glazing company. At one time he was on the complaints/remediation team. A woman had reported drafts from her new windows so he went to investigate. When he asked where the draft was she opened a window, held her hand in front of it and indicated that there was indeed a draft. As politely as he could he pointed out that an open window will always create air movement to which she replied “The man who sold me the windows said there would not be any drafts”.
As a sparky I've been to a few situations where people have had damp issues & I've found that there houses have been so sealed up & have zero air flow. They refuse to open windows as it lets the draught in !!. They always blame the landlord for mould but dont accept responsibility for the way they live.
Yes I agree with you Roger. It also makes a difference that it is happening in the bedroom, as it gets colder at night, which gives the window a better opportunity to make the condensation from breath and sweat. A soft cloth to get rid of it, or an hour or two with a dehumidifier in the morning works well. As other commenters have said, it won't help it is a new build of fresh refurb as moisture could still be coming off the plaster etc I'm guessing. As an aside, condensation is a big problem for motorcycle visors and there are specific anti-fog products available for that. Other more common things I have seen for this include a simple wipe with raw washing up liquid (along the lines of his shaving foam I think).
One thing that could be making the condensation worse is if the New Double glazing sealed unit was made incorrectly. So to meet Building regs we have to use Soft Coat Low E coatings on one pane of the sealed unit. The coating should be on the outside face of the inside pane. Now if the manufacturer made the unit with the coating on the inside face of the room then this will make any condensation 500% worse. I made some windows years ago and one sealed unit out of 5 in a bedroom was made incorrectly by the manufacturer. Condensation literally poured down the window but none of the other units in the window were effected at all, no sign of any condensation apart from the wrongly made unit. I would get the company back and get them to test it with a Low E tester which they should have. That will tell you if it is made incorrectly. You will always get some condensation in bedrooms,especially during the Winter months, usually just a small amount on the bottom of the units.
That is interesting. I will get one of these Low E detectors and try it on a few windows. I know quite a lot are fitted the wrong way round with the Low E coating on the outside.
@@SkillBuilder It's at it's optimum when the coating is on the outside face of the inside pane. If it's on the inside face of the outside pane (still in the void between panes) it still works but not quite as efficient. If it's made incorrectly so the coating is on the inside of the inside pane (Room saide) then it's a major issue. The testers aren't expensive and I bought one after having the issue I mentioned, I'd rather check each unit I'm sent rather than rely on a sticker which can also be wrong.
Use a lighter on the exterior of the glass and it should show the third flame to be a different colour is installed correctly . I work with glass and do this daily .
Love your videos Roger, well done, just some facts for everyone, 80% of condensation is caused by our life style, we produce 20 ltrs of water moisture with our daily activities, cooking bathing breathing etc, the dew point which condensation forms is between 2 and 3 degrees temperature difference, keeping your house clean ie dusting clearing cob webs and dust from walls reduces black mold forming
Here in France they fit ventilation systems V.M.C Basically a fan in a box hanging in the loft space with duct branching off into each room sucking the air out through the roof, they run 24/7 with two settings, definitely stops damp and black mould.
So many comments! I have to add mine. Winter air has a low vapour pressure, so opening all the windows for 15 mins ( LUFTING) will lower the indoor vapour pressure enough to remove excess moisture. You do not need to use a dehumidifier at all. Sleep with the window open if you can. MVHR is the ideal solution if you can retrofit (not easy). PIV works, but can waste energy (as dehumidifier does), trickle vents & CEV is a poor solution. Phil Daw
We have a large top window in a bedroom 180mm x 500mm open 24/7 365 days a year + 2 other windows throughout the house. In winter I have to use a window vac every morning and it pools on the window sill.
It is difficult to diagnose your house without collecting more information. 180 x 500 is a transom window, why not try opening the casement as well? Indoor moisture can come from: Roof leaks into the wall that you have not noticed, heating the house then evaporates some of this into indoor vapour. Cooking with the pan open, a gas fire and the worst is drying washing!
Exactly , we have a solid stone and brick building , double glaze with trickle vents , room we sleep in terrible condensation. We go away for a couple of weeks and that room dry as a bone and another interesting note was that some flowers given just before we left were still alive and in good condition after two weeks of not having us breathe all over them , two or three days of us being back started to deteriorate, bad breath !!!!
Good advice 👍 especially the use of a dehumidifier. One reason that particular window could be experiencing issues could be if it has a tightly fitting blind or curtain allowing the air between the curtain and the the glass to get particularly cold overnight and therefore the glass reaches the dew point sooner than other rooms in the house. Try letting a bit more air circulate to the glass to keep the temperature up behind the curtain. The only other things I add would be to use the trickle vents if fitted, minimise moisture sources in the house (dry washing outside ehfn possible, use extractor fans or open a window when showering, use lids on pans when cooking) and to get a window vacuum to remove any condensation off the window so the water goes down the drain and not back into the room.
Got a north facing master bedroom, which has me, my partner, our two children and a dog typically sleeping in it at night. Its also a smart house, with humidity & temp sensors in every single room, sometimes multiples. In this case, the master bedroom has multiples as it also has the first floor smart heating controller. It is blatantly obvious the difference in moisture in the air from night when we are all in there, to day when we are not. Dehumidifier is the best friend for these situations but for most of the year, opening the window & window vents suffices.
Brother in law fitted a piv which has helped but it can bring in smells from the loft. I have opted to fit an mvhr system during my renovations as i dont want any window vents or piercing of my insulation.
Totally agree...get a dehumidifier and run it all throughout the day whilst you're not using the bedroom. Also, get some of those cheap moisture traps from the pound shop. One or two on the window sill, one of top of the wardrobe.
We have an old 1910s house in the UK and the moisture is usually low. Even in the cellar. However it is slightly drafty but that even with double glazing keeps the condensation at bay. Only the back rook gets it but that is an old single glazed wooden bay window, only happens with the log burner on as the warm air condenses vs the cold on the window. If it is sunny outside open your windows. Especially after showering. The amount of modern houses i walk into and smell damp. A sealed box needs ventilation. The Norwegians have proper Hvac venting systems we have sealed boxes.
Helps to get a Karcher type window vac and remove as much water as possible around the property. Really helps to reduce the time you need to run a dehumidifier. A few damp traps around is also helpful 👍🏻
Been involved with a condensation issue on a house in recent years. Boiling food a lot and drying clothes indoors will make it worse. Trickle vents are good, even better is a new window, fitted by someone good. Worth checking outside also if you can, once I had a window which had a gap underneath it, cold air was flowing into the cavity and making the wall cold. And also, decent heating. that's my 10 penny's worth to add. Oh and if a gutter is splatting water onto the problem ara from the outside, get that sort of issue fixed.
We keep the small vents open in our bedroom windows to combat this. I also recently installed a PIV system in the upstairs hallway for a bit of extra ventilation when there is no wind outside. Yes, we loose some heat from the house but in my opinion good ventilation is absolutely key to healthy sleep and and an all round healthier living environment.
A lad in a pub couldn't work out why droplets got on the outside of his pint glass since the cold liquid is inside. Warm air holds more moisture and drifts to his glass and condenses I said. Glad to know I'm in good company! Now if only I knew as much as all these guys on Skill Builder.
Basically you need extractor fans in bathrooms especially if a shower room ,unblocked air vents and trickle vents in double glazed windows, if drying clothing indoors a dehumidifier , and always use kitchen extractor when boiling .
When remodeling older properties there's little consideration for HVAC. Triple glazing and insulation moves the dew point deeper into the envelope and increases condensation on uninsulated areas. Increased heating helps to reduce the relative humidity so that more moisture is removed with ventilation (also increasing moisture in unheated areas). Improved ventilation will increase the rate of heating escaping. If only there existed a device that removed moisture from air while preserving the heat... Air conditioner, ventilator with heat recuperator, dehumidifier. If you want to go the passive route, unblock the chimney, put the vent grills and use it as a natural air extractor.
The closer to the source you catch and remove the moisture , the cheaper and easier it is as well Roger. I know you know but people look for the golden bullet but humidity management is required in almost every room. The solution often looks very expensive but a £50 fan and a few hours of DIY can make a huge difference.
Could it also be the fact the plaster is still drying out as it has been recently plastered, which is also compounding the problem? But the end result is still the same get dehumidifier, I love mine 😀👌
Concept people need to understand is relative humidity. Hot air has more energy so can carry more water - air molecules 'biffing' microscopic water vapour droplets, keeping then in the air. As air cools down, it can't support as much water so it falls out - yes, this is how clouds work. People breathing, cooking, showering etc = warm air with alot of entrained moisture. As Roger says, present this air with a cold(er) surface sand the water condenses. Condensing on a window is arguably better than on a plastered/papered wall... Get yourself a window vac and get the place aired out for just 10 minutes first thing in the morning and late evening. Also good for your sinuses!
Well considering the amount of water one person releases when asleep some say 1/2 a pint and there are three in the room Plus a glass of water. Had to prove a point with a customer a few weeks ago. They had damp cloths on a clothes horse resulting in lots of condensation on the window in the room. So dried the condensation off the window and put the cloths outside. Wated a while There was a build-up of more condensation from moisture that would have been left in the air. Dried that off the window. The build-up stopped there was no more after a few hours we brought the cloths back into the room. The result condensation on windows back to square one within an hour. Now while you will remove the moisture from the window with a cloth or kitchen paper unless you remove that damp cloth or paper from the house. The moisture you removed will just evaporate back into the home So outside with it. Give that cloths horse experiment a try. Every home needs a Dehumidifier and at best two. I have found that it is seldom a building problem and more a lifestyle. Keep up the good work
Hi Brian It seems that some people just won't accept that it is anything to do with them. I would hate to be a landlord with a tennant that is in denial about their contribution to the damp.
I've got a large ebac humidifier in my house. It's virtually on 24 hours, which is crazy. I need a better extractor in the kitchen or leave door most often but not ideal during winter.
Having worked within the remedial industry for over twenty years, I can certainly say I've seen my fair share of condensation related issues! One simple answer: mechanical ventilation. The approved document F 2010/2021 provides the basic information needed to keep condensation to a minimum, but adequate heating must also be applied to ensure mould and condensate cannot form on the usual 'cold spots'. 'Opening a window' and other similar remarks made by landlords and letting agents alike demonstrate a lack of understanding and legal responsibilities now present within the UK. Windows are designed for purge ventilation and not considered as background ventilators. In other words, you should not need to open windows to remove excess humidity. Window openings are sized to purge the size of each habitable room, rapidly diluting pollutants including voc's. Any tenant suffering with mould and condensate should refer to the Homes (fitness for habitation) act 2018 when reporting issues to landlords, as inadequate ventilation can be hazardous to health and appropriate mechanical ventilation should be installed within the property as a minimum.
Been struggling with condensation mainly in my lower hallway. One specific wall. Gutters were overflowing which is now resolved; the rain water was collecting against this outside wall. Solid concrete cavity walls with tyrolean render. House is overdue for repainting (think it was last done 30 years ago) so I suspect moisture in the wall making it cold and attracting the moisture from the air that way. Planning to repaint and reinstate some waterproofing along the bottom of the outer walls too. Bitumen paint was used in the past, but I'm open to any more modern suggestions. These houses are rumoured to have no DPC as they were a prefab concrete construction. Only other thing I think I should maybe do is look into capping the cavity in the loft, as it isn't insulated currently and open at the top so heat lost through the internal walls is going straight up into the roof space instead of being retained.
He is absolutely right it’s the three people sleeping in the room that’s causing the condensation. Three people at night will add 1-1 /2 pints of water to a room through just breathing.
Had issues with black damp in past 2 houses, caused health problems. A dehumidifier and anti-mould wall paint additive fixed it. We have solid brick walls. Before the dehumidifier we had water condense onto the eastern wall, which stays coldest, as its in the shade.
Installation of trickle vents into the window frame would be the best suggestion. They cost only a few pounds and can be self installed. If a contractor does it theis may cost ~£100. I would also suggest that these are installed on all the uPVC windows to allows the house to breath.
I've read that in northern europe it's common to open all the windows in a house for a few mins a day to clean the air out, even if it's raining outside it's likely less moist than in a house. In Germany it's called "lufting". Basic idea is to get fresh air in the whole house and basically reset the relativel humidity. Not a bad idea unless you're in a polluted area.
yes the advise is 3 x 10 min day. but a thing that a lot of people miss is that it can take a week+ to lover the moister in house. as it will build up in the walls,floors etc.
We always open windows at some point on a daily basis at all times of year except during an excessive storm. Sleeping with a window open is healthier but I occasionally shut it because wild birds can get a bit rowdy😊
Condensation on the windows is a good thing, it takes moisture out the air. End of the day you will get condensation on any cold surface (well sort of) maybe look up dew point calculator and how they work, it might add some context.
Ventilation is key. Honestly a single window in a room isn't enough, one either side would be better. Houses aren't really built to have the best ventilation in the UK, it's mostly built to keep drafts out and heat in.
Leave the heating on all the time in that bedroom, it will dry out the plaster and reduce the cold bridging, I bet its a wall which doesn't get the sun or is obscured by trees or other buildings, all of which creates the conditions for cold walls and therefore condensation.
You should adjust window gap so the seal is not so tight. Before using that room open windows for 5min. Second put heater under window. Third leave the door open or make some gap. The moisture comes from people breats or water leaks.
Seen it many times... It would appear that lately everyone has a mould problem.. Seems to be very topical, especially with rented properties...I'm saying no more 😂 As you say, keeping the room ventilated will cure most of the problem. Likely to be more of an issue the more new builds are constructed with super insulation and windows welded shut
If you drill a hole you will make it worse and it is unlikely that you will drill toughed glass without shattering it. It may be that your frame drain is blocked and the bottom of the sealed unit is submerged or it could be that the seal has gone.
Don’t use a glass of water in the window. Use a sealed container like a water bottle. If the bottle is cold the water will condense to the bottle instead of the window. If you use a glass of water you might be adding moisture to the air while the water in the glass evaporates.
I’m in Japan having a huge problem now, never had anything like it . Have to wipe around the window 3 times a day like puddles . Got dehumidifier . Small heater etc.
I run a dehumidifier.. over the winter I get a wet window, and I dry it sometimes, but I didn't think it was bad lately.... oh, how wrong was I... went to flip the mattress for its annual flip-flop and the mattress was soaking underneath, you'd think I'd been wetting the bed.. must have emptied the jug 3 times on the Dehumidifier before it was free from moisture.. Everyone should have a dehumidifier as we all have wet towels, wet clothes, sweat etc, it's gotta go somewhere..
We had the same issues when we had our rooms replastered, even with the window vents open so we got one of those moisture meters and it was up to 70% at times Dehumidifier was the only solution
So I installed a PIV but constantly having the boiler fire up because it gets too cold I now only turn it on for an hour plus or so at midday to keep the heating bills down. I run two small dehumidifiers at night for about 4 hours to get the whole house down to 45/50 percent humidity, the house is a lot warmer now with the low humidity. My mum and dad had the same issue brand new windows installed complained said they were rubbish and there is me telling them they are too good that’s why they get the moisture and the house is so cold, told them to get a dehumidifier they where very reluctant stating cost too much to run but told them so does heating anyway too the plung and they are so happy with the temperature and now no condensation on the windows in the morning.
Be happy to have the condensation on the window. It safes your house from mold. You will have it somewhere. Better on a Glas surface than somewhere else.
The OP's windows might not have trickle vents to allow air exchange. This is a problem in my bedroom and i use a dehumidifier to take the extra moisture out of the air. Otherwise the walls and ceiling soon have mould
Hi I have this problem in my bedroom I have purchased a dehumidifier what want to no if I can but the hot air hose though the cavity wall so the air escapes between the inner and outer wall as I don't want to get up ladders put an hole in the outside wall
Had trouble with the old double glazing with condensation got rid of the old windows and bought new windows at £10,000 and we still got condensation. What a waste of money that was.
I can relate to that! Although the trickle vents do help with sleep but my windows aren't as good at keeping out noise as before & I think that's the trickle vents fault even when they're closed!
Been struggling for years with condensation in my bedroom, replacing windows with trickle vented not an option so simply have to sleep with the window open. Tried dehumidifier but too loud to sleep with (not to mention a drain on bills). Que sera
Any surface within a dwelling that cools to or below the dew point of the air will result in condensation. It happens to poorly insulated walls or ceilings, often around the perimeter or on external walls, but especially windows as these are often concealed behind curtains and cool down significantly overnight in colder times of the year. A dehumidifier will help, alternatively remove the accumulated condensation on the window using something like a karcher window squeegee. This needs to be done before the moisture ponds and then drips onto the wall or floor below the window. Obviously this method will not work for walls or ceilings as they absorb moisture arising from condensation, a dehumidifier is the only immediate option.
Get a few humidity and temp monitors and check each rooms relative humidity levels. This will give you at least some indication of the difference in each room. There are so many options . Obviously a dehumidifier will work but if the relative humidity levels in that room don't go above 60 % you may try not closing the blinds once the lights are out to maintain airflow and keep the window open slightly. Is the room directly across the bathroom?
You need at least one airvent in the bedroom so that the moist air can escape. Houses need to breathe. If its a modern supertight house you need aircondition to catch the moisture. Most modern Windows have a small airvent but People close them to keep the cold air out to save on the heat.
How do I stop mould and damp in my under stairs cupboard? It has an outside wall, has been damp proofed, re plastered, and a vent put on the outside wall. Is it because it is next to my hall which has heating? What can I do please?
Could be that the space between the double glazing is not wide enough or the glass isn't thick enough . I've seen this in the usa as the ready-made of the shelf windows are made cheaply . A top of the line extractor fan which runs almost silently , may be a solution . Luxury, we used to dream about 3 people in a room , we had the whole street in one room . No bathroom , no living room, no bedroom .. l've just remembered we lived on the street 😂. Great content as always rog 👍 One other thought if they have trees or the side of the house that gas the problem or gets no sun it could add to the problems
The rubber 'seal' around the plastic pressing on the glass is probably not stopping the draught from coming into the room. Try sliding a piece of paper between the rubber and the glass - if there's a gap, fresh, damp air comes into the room. Prove it another way - roll some cling film up and lay it along the seals and see if it stops it. Or maybe temporarily put some vaseline along the rubber to seal the gap???
@@SkillBuilder because it stops damp air coming straight in and condensing on the glass. Otherwise it's just making the room damper and damper (and colder) - just like having a window ajar
I live in a Victorian flat with modern windows. The chimneys were unsound and removed and sealed up decades ago. The condensation can be something evil. It took me ages to figure out that there is no ventilation except to open the windows. There are no air bricks. The house is a sealed unit.
Building regs changed on15th June 2022 so all new double glazing has to have trickle vents, are they open? We get condensation on the bottom 2" of our conservatory windows when it is very cold outside but only since we got two dogs (they sleep in the conservatory - it is open to the house and has a proper roof so not cold). We bought a dehumidifier and it clears any condensation in about an hour, it's also great for when the other half does the ironing in the conservatory.
Surprised he didn’t mention trickle vents. For some weird reason whoever fitted the windows in the house I live in now, fitted trickle vents in the downstairs north facing windows but not in the upstairs ones. If we get around to replacing these windows at some point, I intend to have trickle vents on all the windows. Maybe the new windows installed in this video example don’t have trickle vents which makes the issues much worse? I have a dehumidifier sat in the corner of our problem bedroom with a separate battery powered sensor on top. If I notice the moisture is getting too high, I run it for about half a day and that tends to get rid of the problem for a while. I only need to do this in Winter
Would insulation on the internal wall to make that wall warmer? To reduce cold spots? I have had a brick air vent fitted and do keep the window slightly open and we don't close the bedroom door as this seems to make it worse so we try to keep air flow
Ok thanks for the reply Roger, thought it would help as it reduces cold spots for the moisture to condense on? Obviously with the other measures we are taking, keeping the window on latch and open when we can for ventilation and air circulation.
Strange thing condensation.......... We recently had central heating and double glazing installed in our Victorian two bed flat and have no issues at all. My wife hangs washing inside to dry and no issues. We have a window open throughout the night . Showering brings no problems in the bathroom which doesn't have an extractor. Our daughter lives in a cottage flat with new double glazing and central heating and has water streaming down her windows. Put condensation cups around the house which seems to help Only difference i can see is our old Victorian front door is not totally sealed so the large hall has some fresh air exchange.
Strange indeed, I would hazard a guess that your Victorian building has lime plaster and maybe solid walls which are uninsulated. Heat travels to cold and with it goes a lot of airborne moisture. This will be soaked up by the lime plaster and carried through the masonry to the outside. The walls may therefore act as a buffer. Are some of your walls and or floor shared by neighbours? In other words are you gaining heat from another property? It would be interesting to look at your daughter's home. What is it built from, is it surrounded by vegetation etc. There are so many factors to consider.
Thanks for that.... We've lived in this flat for 45 years and only recently installed double glazing and gas central heating. Never experienced any mould or condensation problems although we did have freezing ice build up during past cold winters on our old single glazed sash windows. Nothing like that in the last thirty years so climate change.........? Our flat is indeed second floor sandwiched between our neighbours. Built in 1904 with several lath and plaster walls whereas our daughter's cottage flat looks more like a 1950's construction.
Get a bigger dehumidifier, like 20L or above, if you do not have a drain hole for the water to go, and if you do not want to empty the water tank from time to time.
As a wise old man once said to me, you can insulate, get triple glazed windows and the condensation will still be there. It’s the production of the condensation and its collection that you can control.
We've got a new build now and i was surprised to learn that the top floor has a vapour barrier behind the ceiling. Would this not have a detrimental effect on the moisture escaping?
As a window fitter we had a well educated lady who complained that her new double glazed widows were attracting condensation. We explained that the condensation was caused by moisture in the air and previously the moist air had escaped via the draughty old window. She assured me that wasn’t true and that the air was so dry she had to put wet towels on the radiator at night … 🤷🏻♂️
That is classic. There isn't much you can do for people like that.
@@SkillBuilder not relevant to this, but we also had another customer who insisted that there was a draft coming through the glass on his patio door. He actually pointed to the spot in the centre of the double glazed unit where he insisted the draft was coming through.
😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂@@SkillBuilder
Brilliant 🤣🤣
I’ve lived in a studio flat for 30 years. Used to have terrible condensation on the old single glazed wooden windows. Replaced them with double glazing. This reduced the problem by about 50%. I tried dehumidifiers and all sorts to no avail. Then someone suggested I leave a small gap in my curtains when I draw them at night and lo and behold the problem vanished. Closing the curtains completely may save you money on the heating but it creates the perfect cold spot for moisture to condense.
People need humidity monitors in their homes. Just understanding what the humidity is in each room can really help you know how to deal with it.
I use govee hygrometers. They are $12 connect to your phone to give you a graph. They have one with a screen that takes AA batteries. Rechargeables work well with them.
Having a bunch of these has given me a lot of insight into my home.
Better yet, install vent extractors with humidistat.
@@VanyaYaniwe have a new, very airtight, house. We did this with constant fans with humidistat to increase power of extraction when necessary. Such a difference.
A dehumidifier is a total game changer. No more black mould, nor wet glass in the mornings. Also, less humid air is easier to heat and feels warmer than humid.
We have a very small 5L dehumidifier which is enough to keep our upstairs moisture at bay. We run it nightly during winter for 3hrs.
We also open windows in the 10-15mins before leaving the house as we are getting ready (even if it's freezing outside) just to let some fresh air in. It's helped greatly over the last couple of winters.
Agree, but air that is too dry can cause or worsen respiratory issues, so be on the lookout for symptoms of that.
@@Stefan_Van_pellicom My dehumidifier has setting for humidity. I would set it at 55 - 60% and it would keep the humidity at that level and it automatically shut off and on as necessary.
A dehumidifier, as you say is the answer. We have one and it's one of the best things we have ever bought. The house feels warmer as well when we have our heating on.
Who in December in the UK can afford to run a humidifier?
stoßlüften - shock ventilation. Its drilled into every German person to open the windows a few times per day to exchange the air. No matter if it is minus temperatures outside you open the windows for a few minutes.
You need proper ventilation continuously. Just keep a few trickle vents open and you're sorted, permanently. No need to let all the heat out two, three times a day and no need to sit in increasingly stale air in a tightly sealed house because it's not time for lüften yet. Also, when you run an extraction hood in the kitchen or mechanical ventilation in the bathroom, there does need to be air coming into the house to make that work properly, which will be no problem if you have trickle vents open.
It’s the same in Denmark.
And the German government is so desperate for people to stop doing this that it's running information campaigns to stop it because of the amount of energy it uses to heat everyone's house back up.
Proper ventilation isn't opening every window and freezing 🥶
@@Welgeldiguniekaliasthe amount of heat lost through this shock method is less than you might think - as the mass of the building (e.g. walls) is still warm, and will reradiate heat to the new cool air quickly.
Isn't this method only useful when the humidity outside is low UK has been 80% humidity all winter
We fitted a PIV in a damp welsh property. So far, condensation reduced by a huge percentage. DIY fit, about £300 all in. Well worth it.
Definitely the way to go, a dehumidifier only helps in one room but a PIV unit works through the whole house and is cheaper to run
Sounds like an even better idea. What are you running costs like so far?
(Asking for the owner of a damp welsh property 🙂 )
@@Coherers Can't remember the exact amount, but it's pennies per day. Was quoted north of £950 to supply and fit by a damp proof company. Any half competent diyer should be able to tackle it. We'll see how it goes long term.
PIV = Positive Input Ventilation, fixed my sister-in-laws black mould problems
Same here. Never had black mould or condensate again
We have a 1935, 5 bedroom house with good draft-proofing, insulation and double-glazing. Surely a prime target for condensation? Even in mid-winter we have a short period daily (maybe 30 to 45 mins) when there is a through-draft through all rooms. We open windows front and back and don't over-heat the rooms. The bathroom window is opened an inch or so after showering and walls above the bath wiped dry after use. For some areas we use those interior dehumidifier tubs, especially inside cupboards and on top of wall units. Also remembering to empty them regularly and refill from time to time with readily available gel crystals. The nett result is a house devoid of condensation apart from the bedroom windows in deep winter where the slight condensation is easy to wipe off with a towel.
We grew up on the south coast in the 1950s when houses were largely unheated and bedroom windows were often covered in ice on the inside. In our 1970s student accommodation, the toilet often froze over so the first to use it had to melt a hole using body-heated fluid. It did mean solids were awkward if you were the first of the day.
You really should think about upgrading
@@gulfstream7235 ??? The house… the car… or what?
We purchased a condensing dehumidifier just before Christmas but it was so efficient it was chucking out cold air. So I swapped it for a desiccant dehumidifier and it’s been a game changer. I run it most of the day in the living room (where I work) and it heats the room very efficiently and I haven’t had condensation on the windows all winter. Very happy with it. Apparently, having less moisture in the air makes the heating more efficient as you’re not having to heat the moisture.
Spot on , a desiccant dehumidifier works better in the temperature range in UK house's.
Dehumidifiers can't cool the air. That's impossible. The air coming out is usually about 2°C warmer when the compressor is on. Maybe just windchill effect makes it feel cold or maybe circulating air past a cold spot.
Dessicant dehumidifiers use a heater to dry the dessicant hence they are warmer. Plus they tend to pull more power.
@@matthewwakeham2206 yeah, cold air is probably an overstatement, but it wasn’t warm enough to warm up the room
@@therealcaldini they're not intended to heat the room up as well
@@phil955i Maybe not, but mine does and I’m very much enjoying the benefit of it. Plus, I don’t have condensation on the windows any more. And it’s cheaper than running a normal electric heater and more effective than our crappy central heating.
I get condensation on my bedroom window when the outside temperature drops to freezing or just a few degrees above. I use a window vacuum to deal with the problem when I get up in the morning. Quick easy, no messing with rolls of paper towel or soaking wet cloths. Problem solved.
Me too karcher vav
Same here
Only PITA is emptying and rinsing vacuum after each use to avoid mould growing inside of it.
A person will create about 130ml of water during 8 hours sleep just by breathing. Once that moisture hits the coldest surface in a room condensation is created. The cheapest cure is to simply hold your breath for 8 hours😂
Fully agree. Problem solved !!!!
I’ll try that and get back to you
Exactly😂
Well give it a go and let us know how you get on.
This man is correct: 100% of people who hold their breath for 8 hours don't complain about condensation after.
Yes i agree a dehumidifier works wonder,been using one for years for me its essential.
A dehumidifier does not solve the underlying problem though, which presumably is lack of decent ventilation so moisture cannot escape.
@@pjgtechYou necessarily need more ventilation. You need something that will take the moisture out of the air, whether that be ventilation or dehumidification.
My draughty old Edinburgh tenement has enough ventilation but having a dehumidifier has been essential and a game changer.
@@Middledistance100 i built a DIY condensator cold plate i place on my windowsill, the ambient outside air cools the plate and moisture dews on that instead of anywhere else , basicallyl its a PASSIVE dehumidifer
@girlsdrinkfeck clever... Especially for father jack😉 👍🍻
Yep, spot on, we run a dehumidifier 24/7 upstairs during the Winter months, controlling at 50% RH. Very little if any condensation on the windows.
I installed the Wickes whole house ventilation system 35 years ago in my house soon after moving in. Excessive condensation was fixed everywhere including on the then single glazing and the house has a very healthy feel. I have changed the fans 3 times in that period. The system has a heat exchanger in the loft. It takes hot damp air from the kitchen and bathroom, and passes it through the heat exchanger. Fresh air from outside is passed through the heat exchange where it is warmed up by the outgoing air, and is distributed to all the bedrooms and lounge. No need ever to open windows in the winter. It works like magic. Yes I know not every house can easily be fitted with such a system. Such systems should be standard on all new-built IMHO.
Good topic Roger. Everyone would have to stop breathing to prevent condensation in the bedroom. As an alternative, I run a dehumidifier on 'low' for 12hrs during daytime for 6 months of the year (Winter/Spring). It not only prevents condensation & mould, but keeps bedlinen, clothes and carpets fresh. It might sound an expensive process, but when considering the damage that damp & mould can do to building fabric, clothes & health, it's a no-brainer. I'm not a great fan of throwing a window open of a nightime in Winter, simply from the point of view of losing that expensively produced heat (and letting in more damp air from the constant rain!).
Had the exact same issue, our bedroom always the worst condensation.
This winter I put a dehumidifier on the landing and vented it outside, fixed the problem. However... Noisy! So I turned it into fan mode with it still venting outside, that also fixed the issue! I have also tired just running a normal tower fan on at night, worked as well, still a small punt of condensation at the bottom of the windows but not like before when the entire window was covered.
We also always keep the small windows on the second latch to keep fresh air moving.
I am looking at maybe trying a PIV unit as that would be even quieter.
In my experience, these rooms just need air circulation.
As a bathroom fitter, I get to see ALL the misunderstandings of condensation and mould growth. Nine times out of ten, it’s lifestyle that creates these issues.
You try and explain that to most people and you're wasting your breath.....obviously lots of folk out there that flunked the basic science principles.
9 times out of 10, there is a defect
@@completepreservation That 'Defect' is always down to the lack of understanding, very seldom a physical fault.
@@kenhickford6581 many times there is insulation defects, ventilation defects that I find are are the most common cause. If people don’t have the equipment to test to prove there is an issue they would never know 👍
@@completepreservation What do you think happens when you put damp towels on towel warmer radiators?
Nice video thanx. As an ex surveyor of 30 years, theres only a few things you can do to reduce or remove condensation, That is firstly to decrease moisture production (difficult to do as you have to breath, wash, cook, etc). Secondly to increase heating, ventilation and insulation. If the rooms to cold moisture will condense, if there no ventilation, the moisture can't escape. If the insulation is lacking, there is more likelyhood of condensation occurring. If no vents, add trickle vent to window, or air vent to wall or extractor fan if bathroom/kitchen. Ensure rads are working and large enough for the room. Ensure any cold bridges are insulated, especially around doors, windows, flat roofs, etc.
If a room has more external walls, eg: an added rear or side extension, it may have more external walls, so larger surface area of potential cold surfaces.
There are lots of heat recovery / auto air vents / extraction units available now too.
Lots to think about.....
HVAC system the way to go ,should be in all new builds .
@@u2kjib4cjkqn no
I live in a 3 bed bungalow where condensation was a problem due to insulation etc, been in the H&V trade for over 40yrs fitted a Nuaire DRIMASTER ECO Link PIV Unit problem solved overnight. I would install one of these before a dehumidifier.
If you are going to go down the route of a dehumidifier, would strongly recommend a dessicant one and not a compressor type. More efficient in colder temps and it produces a bit of heat too, so all that electricity being used to run it is doing some other good too. But yeah, opening the windows first thing, making sure that bedroom door is always open in the day, and ultimately just biting the bullet and getting piv or mvhr (even a single room jobby elsewhere in the property on trickle mode all the time) will all help. Forget those pound shop window things. Also make sure air bricks/vents are clear. When i lived in a new build flat mine were taped in polythene!!
I had water running off bedroom windows, bought a window vac it was so bad also running off the front door skirting that had rusty nails leaching out, after watching your channel some time back I bought a PIV best money ever spent Gone overnight the first night after fitting, Brilliant bit of kit and must be healthier.
What's a PIV?
What do you do with it?
I have the same question
@Google_Does
Positive input ventilation. Fan that brings in filtered external air and makes your home positively pressurized
I put an exhaust fan that heat exchanged the warm air going out of the upstairs bed rooms, a bit of 5 inch flexible pipe with heat exchanger box fitted in the roof, a few inlet and outlet airflow adjustable vents, with the heat exchanger, controlled by a Humidity stat switching the fan to a higher speed at 80% humidity. returning to a lower speed when the Humidity returns to Circa 75% It runs 24/7 and has done the trick for me. We lived in an old Mews house with fitted double glazing also.
The box is suspended from the rafters to avoid any noise, and runs with very little noise too.
We get a slight amount on water on the bottom window sill, but nothing like we had before. Heat exchanger and pipe and pipe fittings and Humidity stat can be bought from eBay, I spent about £200.00, We have nice fresh air all day and night. We had LPG Central heating and hot water, with a 10kW multi fuel burner. Cozy.
As you said the condensation comes from breathing at night whilst asleep, and also drying clothes in the house over night. Along with the steam moisture from cooking.
I live in a 60s house. When it's below 3 outside, overnight any occupied rooms gets DRENCHED. It has spots on the walls and ceilings, windows are soaked. I used to just window vac the windows every morning but it'd fill the karcher's tank twice a day. EVEN WITH THE WINDOW OPEN.
I got a thermometer with built in dehumidifier and noticed the humidity level was 70%+ these days.
Dehumidifier on overnight keeping it below 60% = problem solved, costs about 20p a night. (Plus I'm told mould doesn't grow until 68% humidity, so it's stopped my mould issue above the window)
Wow that’s alot of moisture. What type of air ventilation system do you have?
@@Your_username_ literally nothing. No vent in the kitchen, bathroom. Nothing in the loft. Fortunately it's a small flat so the dehumidifier can handle it when needed but with the windows open there's usually not a problem, just when it gets /real/ cold I need to close the windows and put the dehumidifier on. I got a probreeze 12l model in a sale for about £130. 150-200watts of power draw but it cycles on and off so averages 70-100w. 2p an hour even at the current horrible UK rates.
@@MikaMikaMika89 Assuming the apartment is not in original condition, it seems to me that the renovators forgot to enhance the ventilation system while changing windows thus making it less breathable.
@@Your_username_ my current landlady would probably OK me putting vents in, but for now there are no problems and I'm not worried about it. I wouldn't like the drop in soundproofing. (Autistic and a bit grumpy about that stuff and boy do I have some music loving neighbors at times)
Thank you for common sense video. Cold bridging and condensation are simply two sides of the same coin - there is warm moist air hitting a cold surface is the problem, the solution is always to do the best to remove the moisture first
My late father in law worked for a well known double glazing company. At one time he was on the complaints/remediation team. A woman had reported drafts from her new windows so he went to investigate. When he asked where the draft was she opened a window, held her hand in front of it and indicated that there was indeed a draft. As politely as he could he pointed out that an open window will always create air movement to which she replied “The man who sold me the windows said there would not be any drafts”.
Did she mention that the Earth was flat,by any chance?🤣
As a sparky I've been to a few situations where people have had damp issues & I've found that there houses have been so sealed up & have zero air flow. They refuse to open windows as it lets the draught in !!.
They always blame the landlord for mould but dont accept responsibility for the way they live.
Yes I agree with you Roger. It also makes a difference that it is happening in the bedroom, as it gets colder at night, which gives the window a better opportunity to make the condensation from breath and sweat. A soft cloth to get rid of it, or an hour or two with a dehumidifier in the morning works well. As other commenters have said, it won't help it is a new build of fresh refurb as moisture could still be coming off the plaster etc I'm guessing.
As an aside, condensation is a big problem for motorcycle visors and there are specific anti-fog products available for that. Other more common things I have seen for this include a simple wipe with raw washing up liquid (along the lines of his shaving foam I think).
One thing that could be making the condensation worse is if the New Double glazing sealed unit was made incorrectly. So to meet Building regs we have to use Soft Coat Low E coatings on one pane of the sealed unit. The coating should be on the outside face of the inside pane. Now if the manufacturer made the unit with the coating on the inside face of the room then this will make any condensation 500% worse. I made some windows years ago and one sealed unit out of 5 in a bedroom was made incorrectly by the manufacturer. Condensation literally poured down the window but none of the other units in the window were effected at all, no sign of any condensation apart from the wrongly made unit.
I would get the company back and get them to test it with a Low E tester which they should have. That will tell you if it is made incorrectly. You will always get some condensation in bedrooms,especially during the Winter months, usually just a small amount on the bottom of the units.
That is interesting. I will get one of these Low E detectors and try it on a few windows. I know quite a lot are fitted the wrong way round with the Low E coating on the outside.
@@SkillBuilder It's at it's optimum when the coating is on the outside face of the inside pane. If it's on the inside face of the outside pane (still in the void between panes) it still works but not quite as efficient. If it's made incorrectly so the coating is on the inside of the inside pane (Room saide) then it's a major issue. The testers aren't expensive and I bought one after having the issue I mentioned, I'd rather check each unit I'm sent rather than rely on a sticker which can also be wrong.
Use a lighter on the exterior of the glass and it should show the third flame to be a different colour is installed correctly . I work with glass and do this daily .
Love your videos Roger, well done, just some facts for everyone, 80% of condensation is caused by our life style, we produce 20 ltrs of water moisture with our daily activities, cooking bathing breathing etc, the dew point which condensation forms is between 2 and 3 degrees temperature difference, keeping your house clean ie dusting clearing cob webs and dust from walls reduces black mold forming
U tell em Rodge! It aint rocket science, its the water cycle. Primary school stuff. Top bloke
Sadly some came out of the education system none the wiser for the experience.
People don't believe. It's the windows fault.
Here in France they fit ventilation systems V.M.C Basically a fan in a box hanging in the loft space with duct branching off into each room sucking the air out through the roof, they run 24/7 with two settings, definitely stops damp and black mould.
So many comments! I have to add mine. Winter air has a low vapour pressure, so opening all the windows for 15 mins ( LUFTING) will lower the indoor vapour pressure enough to remove excess moisture. You do not need to use a dehumidifier at all. Sleep with the window open if you can. MVHR is the ideal solution if you can retrofit (not easy). PIV works, but can waste energy (as dehumidifier does), trickle vents & CEV is a poor solution. Phil Daw
We have a large top window in a bedroom 180mm x 500mm open 24/7 365 days a year + 2 other windows throughout the house. In winter I have to use a window vac every morning and it pools on the window sill.
It is difficult to diagnose your house without collecting more information.
180 x 500 is a transom window, why not try opening the casement as well?
Indoor moisture can come from: Roof leaks into the wall that you have not noticed, heating the house then evaporates some of this into indoor vapour. Cooking with the pan open, a gas fire and the worst is drying washing!
Exactly , we have a solid stone and brick building , double glaze with trickle vents , room we sleep in terrible condensation.
We go away for a couple of weeks and that room dry as a bone and another interesting note was that some flowers given just before we left were still alive and in good condition after two weeks of not having us breathe all over them , two or three days of us being back started to deteriorate, bad breath !!!!
Good advice 👍 especially the use of a dehumidifier. One reason that particular window could be experiencing issues could be if it has a tightly fitting blind or curtain allowing the air between the curtain and the the glass to get particularly cold overnight and therefore the glass reaches the dew point sooner than other rooms in the house. Try letting a bit more air circulate to the glass to keep the temperature up behind the curtain.
The only other things I add would be to use the trickle vents if fitted, minimise moisture sources in the house (dry washing outside ehfn possible, use extractor fans or open a window when showering, use lids on pans when cooking) and to get a window vacuum to remove any condensation off the window so the water goes down the drain and not back into the room.
Got a north facing master bedroom, which has me, my partner, our two children and a dog typically sleeping in it at night.
Its also a smart house, with humidity & temp sensors in every single room, sometimes multiples. In this case, the master bedroom has multiples as it also has the first floor smart heating controller.
It is blatantly obvious the difference in moisture in the air from night when we are all in there, to day when we are not.
Dehumidifier is the best friend for these situations but for most of the year, opening the window & window vents suffices.
Brother in law fitted a piv which has helped but it can bring in smells from the loft. I have opted to fit an mvhr system during my renovations as i dont want any window vents or piercing of my insulation.
Totally agree...get a dehumidifier and run it all throughout the day whilst you're not using the bedroom.
Also, get some of those cheap moisture traps from the pound shop. One or two on the window sill, one of top of the wardrobe.
Always have trickle vents in your double glazed windows. I always open the windows in the morning for an hour too. It all helps.
We have an old 1910s house in the UK and the moisture is usually low. Even in the cellar. However it is slightly drafty but that even with double glazing keeps the condensation at bay. Only the back rook gets it but that is an old single glazed wooden bay window, only happens with the log burner on as the warm air condenses vs the cold on the window.
If it is sunny outside open your windows. Especially after showering.
The amount of modern houses i walk into and smell damp. A sealed box needs ventilation. The Norwegians have proper Hvac venting systems we have sealed boxes.
Helps to get a Karcher type window vac and remove as much water as possible around the property. Really helps to reduce the time you need to run a dehumidifier.
A few damp traps around is also helpful 👍🏻
Been involved with a condensation issue on a house in recent years. Boiling food a lot and drying clothes indoors will make it worse. Trickle vents are good, even better is a new window, fitted by someone good. Worth checking outside also if you can, once I had a window which had a gap underneath it, cold air was flowing into the cavity and making the wall cold. And also, decent heating. that's my 10 penny's worth to add. Oh and if a gutter is splatting water onto the problem ara from the outside, get that sort of issue fixed.
We keep the small vents open in our bedroom windows to combat this. I also recently installed a PIV system in the upstairs hallway for a bit of extra ventilation when there is no wind outside.
Yes, we loose some heat from the house but in my opinion good ventilation is absolutely key to healthy sleep and and an all round healthier living environment.
A lad in a pub couldn't work out why droplets got on the outside of his pint glass since the cold liquid is inside.
Warm air holds more moisture and drifts to his glass and condenses I said.
Glad to know I'm in good company! Now if only I knew as much as all these guys on Skill Builder.
If you go to the humidifier route you might as well install the air-to-air heat pump split system.
"usually three people sleeping in that room". One of those arrangements, is it?
Don't knock it til ou've tried it Ricos 🤣🤣
Only three? Our ex neighbours could beat that easily lol
It's precisely one of those arrangements. Most people call the 3rd person "their baby".
😂
Basically you need extractor fans in bathrooms especially if a shower room ,unblocked air vents and trickle vents in double glazed windows, if drying clothing indoors a dehumidifier , and always use kitchen extractor when boiling .
When remodeling older properties there's little consideration for HVAC. Triple glazing and insulation moves the dew point deeper into the envelope and increases condensation on uninsulated areas. Increased heating helps to reduce the relative humidity so that more moisture is removed with ventilation (also increasing moisture in unheated areas). Improved ventilation will increase the rate of heating escaping.
If only there existed a device that removed moisture from air while preserving the heat... Air conditioner, ventilator with heat recuperator, dehumidifier.
If you want to go the passive route, unblock the chimney, put the vent grills and use it as a natural air extractor.
The closer to the source you catch and remove the moisture , the cheaper and easier it is as well Roger. I know you know but people look for the golden bullet but humidity management is required in almost every room. The solution often looks very expensive but a £50 fan and a few hours of DIY can make a huge difference.
Could it also be the fact the plaster is still drying out as it has been recently plastered, which is also compounding the problem?
But the end result is still the same get dehumidifier, I love mine 😀👌
Concept people need to understand is relative humidity. Hot air has more energy so can carry more water - air molecules 'biffing' microscopic water vapour droplets, keeping then in the air.
As air cools down, it can't support as much water so it falls out - yes, this is how clouds work.
People breathing, cooking, showering etc = warm air with alot of entrained moisture. As Roger says, present this air with a cold(er) surface sand the water condenses.
Condensing on a window is arguably better than on a plastered/papered wall... Get yourself a window vac and get the place aired out for just 10 minutes first thing in the morning and late evening.
Also good for your sinuses!
Well considering the amount of water one person releases when asleep some say 1/2 a pint and there are three in the room Plus a glass of water. Had to prove a point with a customer a few weeks ago. They had damp cloths on a clothes horse resulting in lots of condensation on the window in the room. So dried the condensation off the window and put the cloths outside. Wated a while There was a build-up of more condensation from moisture that would have been left in the air. Dried that off the window. The build-up stopped there was no more after a few hours we brought the cloths back into the room. The result condensation on windows back to square one within an hour. Now while you will remove the moisture from the window with a cloth or kitchen paper unless you remove that damp cloth or paper from the house. The moisture you removed will just evaporate back into the home So outside with it. Give that cloths horse experiment a try. Every home needs a Dehumidifier and at best two. I have found that it is seldom a building problem and more a lifestyle. Keep up the good work
Hi Brian
It seems that some people just won't accept that it is anything to do with them. I would hate to be a landlord with a tennant that is in denial about their contribution to the damp.
I've got a large ebac humidifier in my house. It's virtually on 24 hours, which is crazy. I need a better extractor in the kitchen or leave door most often but not ideal during winter.
Having worked within the remedial industry for over twenty years, I can certainly say I've seen my fair share of condensation related issues! One simple answer: mechanical ventilation. The approved document F 2010/2021 provides the basic information needed to keep condensation to a minimum, but adequate heating must also be applied to ensure mould and condensate cannot form on the usual 'cold spots'. 'Opening a window' and other similar remarks made by landlords and letting agents alike demonstrate a lack of understanding and legal responsibilities now present within the UK. Windows are designed for purge ventilation and not considered as background ventilators. In other words, you should not need to open windows to remove excess humidity. Window openings are sized to purge the size of each habitable room, rapidly diluting pollutants including voc's. Any tenant suffering with mould and condensate should refer to the Homes (fitness for habitation) act 2018 when reporting issues to landlords, as inadequate ventilation can be hazardous to health and appropriate mechanical ventilation should be installed within the property as a minimum.
open trickle vent.
Been struggling with condensation mainly in my lower hallway. One specific wall. Gutters were overflowing which is now resolved; the rain water was collecting against this outside wall. Solid concrete cavity walls with tyrolean render. House is overdue for repainting (think it was last done 30 years ago) so I suspect moisture in the wall making it cold and attracting the moisture from the air that way. Planning to repaint and reinstate some waterproofing along the bottom of the outer walls too. Bitumen paint was used in the past, but I'm open to any more modern suggestions. These houses are rumoured to have no DPC as they were a prefab concrete construction. Only other thing I think I should maybe do is look into capping the cavity in the loft, as it isn't insulated currently and open at the top so heat lost through the internal walls is going straight up into the roof space instead of being retained.
He is absolutely right it’s the three people sleeping in the room that’s causing the condensation. Three people at night will add 1-1 /2 pints of water to a room through just breathing.
Had issues with black damp in past 2 houses, caused health problems. A dehumidifier and anti-mould wall paint additive fixed it.
We have solid brick walls. Before the dehumidifier we had water condense onto the eastern wall, which stays coldest, as its in the shade.
Installation of trickle vents into the window frame would be the best suggestion.
They cost only a few pounds and can be self installed.
If a contractor does it theis may cost ~£100. I would also suggest that these are installed on all the uPVC windows to allows the house to breath.
A dehumidifier is the best thing I’ve bought recently. No condensation at all now, and the air feels warmer
I've read that in northern europe it's common to open all the windows in a house for a few mins a day to clean the air out, even if it's raining outside it's likely less moist than in a house. In Germany it's called "lufting". Basic idea is to get fresh air in the whole house and basically reset the relativel humidity. Not a bad idea unless you're in a polluted area.
Yeah we have our windows open for at least an hour every morning. No issues. Located in south west Ireland
yes the advise is 3 x 10 min day. but a thing that a lot of people miss is that it can take a week+ to lover the moister in house. as it will build up in the walls,floors etc.
We always open windows at some point on a daily basis at all times of year except during an excessive storm. Sleeping with a window open is healthier but I occasionally shut it because wild birds can get a bit rowdy😊
Condensation on the windows is a good thing, it takes moisture out the air. End of the day you will get condensation on any cold surface (well sort of) maybe look up dew point calculator and how they work, it might add some context.
Ventilation is key. Honestly a single window in a room isn't enough, one either side would be better. Houses aren't really built to have the best ventilation in the UK, it's mostly built to keep drafts out and heat in.
Leave the heating on all the time in that bedroom, it will dry out the plaster and reduce the cold bridging, I bet its a wall which doesn't get the sun or is obscured by trees or other buildings, all of which creates the conditions for cold walls and therefore condensation.
It is the window not the wall
You should adjust window gap so the seal is not so tight.
Before using that room open windows for 5min. Second put heater under window. Third leave the door open or make some gap.
The moisture comes from people breats or water leaks.
Seen it many times... It would appear that lately everyone has a mould problem.. Seems to be very topical, especially with rented properties...I'm saying no more 😂 As you say, keeping the room ventilated will cure most of the problem. Likely to be more of an issue the more new builds are constructed with super insulation and windows welded shut
ua-cam.com/video/8gf3JDjGBmA/v-deo.html
Hi i like your channel what about condensation inside the double-glazed windows? I was told to drill a small in the corner of the window ? Thanks
If you drill a hole you will make it worse and it is unlikely that you will drill toughed glass without shattering it.
It may be that your frame drain is blocked and the bottom of the sealed unit is submerged or it could be that the seal has gone.
Don’t use a glass of water in the window. Use a sealed container like a water bottle. If the bottle is cold the water will condense to the bottle instead of the window. If you use a glass of water you might be adding moisture to the air while the water in the glass evaporates.
How to get rid of moisture in a room without dehumidifier/opening window slightly/vents? Do new windows have tiny vents built in?
I’m in Japan having a huge problem now, never had anything like it . Have to wipe around the window 3 times a day like puddles . Got dehumidifier . Small heater etc.
Send us some pictures of the house www.skill-builder.uk/send. It may be that you have a plumbing leak somewhere
I run a dehumidifier.. over the winter I get a wet window, and I dry it sometimes, but I didn't think it was bad lately.... oh, how wrong was I... went to flip the mattress for its annual flip-flop and the mattress was soaking underneath, you'd think I'd been wetting the bed.. must have emptied the jug 3 times on the Dehumidifier before it was free from moisture..
Everyone should have a dehumidifier as we all have wet towels, wet clothes, sweat etc, it's gotta go somewhere..
We had the same issues when we had our rooms replastered, even with the window vents open so we got one of those moisture meters and it was up to 70% at times
Dehumidifier was the only solution
I got rid of my old sealed double glazing , replaced with new windows….totally cured it no condensation at all.
What a character Kirk is. Hope we seen more often on Skillbuilder.
So I installed a PIV but constantly having the boiler fire up because it gets too cold I now only turn it on for an hour plus or so at midday to keep the heating bills down.
I run two small dehumidifiers at night for about 4 hours to get the whole house down to 45/50 percent humidity, the house is a lot warmer now with the low humidity.
My mum and dad had the same issue brand new windows installed complained said they were rubbish and there is me telling them they are too good that’s why they get the moisture and the house is so cold, told them to get a dehumidifier they where very reluctant stating cost too much to run but told them so does heating anyway too the plung and they are so happy with the temperature and now no condensation on the windows in the morning.
Be happy to have the condensation on the window.
It safes your house from mold.
You will have it somewhere. Better on a Glas surface than somewhere else.
The OP's windows might not have trickle vents to allow air exchange. This is a problem in my bedroom and i use a dehumidifier to take the extra moisture out of the air. Otherwise the walls and ceiling soon have mould
Hi I have this problem in my bedroom I have purchased a dehumidifier what want to no if I can but the hot air hose though the cavity wall so the air escapes between the inner and outer wall as I don't want to get up ladders put an hole in the outside wall
Had trouble with the old double glazing with condensation got rid of the old windows and bought new windows at £10,000 and we still got condensation. What a waste of money that was.
I can relate to that! Although the trickle vents do help with sleep but my windows aren't as good at keeping out noise as before & I think that's the trickle vents fault even when they're closed!
Been struggling for years with condensation in my bedroom, replacing windows with trickle vented not an option so simply have to sleep with the window open. Tried dehumidifier but too loud to sleep with (not to mention a drain on bills). Que sera
Trickle vents on top edge of window may help or a dehumidifier
Any surface within a dwelling that cools to or below the dew point of the air will result in condensation. It happens to poorly insulated walls or ceilings, often around the perimeter or on external walls, but especially windows as these are often concealed behind curtains and cool down significantly overnight in colder times of the year. A dehumidifier will help, alternatively remove the accumulated condensation on the window using something like a karcher window squeegee. This needs to be done before the moisture ponds and then drips onto the wall or floor below the window. Obviously this method will not work for walls or ceilings as they absorb moisture arising from condensation, a dehumidifier is the only immediate option.
Get a few humidity and temp monitors and check each rooms relative humidity levels. This will give you at least some indication of the difference in each room. There are so many options . Obviously a dehumidifier will work but if the relative humidity levels in that room don't go above 60 % you may try not closing the blinds once the lights are out to maintain airflow and keep the window open slightly. Is the room directly across the bathroom?
You need at least one airvent in the bedroom so that the moist air can escape. Houses need to breathe. If its a modern supertight house you need aircondition to catch the moisture. Most modern Windows have a small airvent but People close them to keep the cold air out to save on the heat.
How do I stop mould and damp in my under stairs cupboard? It has an outside wall, has been damp proofed, re plastered, and a vent put on the outside wall. Is it because it is next to my hall which has heating? What can I do please?
PIV units help greatly with condensation and mould if fitted correctly
Could be that the space between the double glazing is not wide enough or the glass isn't thick enough . I've seen this in the usa as the ready-made of the shelf windows are made cheaply . A top of the line extractor fan which runs almost silently , may be a solution .
Luxury, we used to dream about 3 people in a room , we had the whole street in one room . No bathroom , no living room, no bedroom .. l've just remembered we lived on the street 😂. Great content as always rog 👍
One other thought if they have trees or the side of the house that gas the problem or gets no sun it could add to the problems
Was the room in question north facing ,This will ensure coldest surfaces in the property and most at risk of Condensation.Dehumidifier only option.
The rubber 'seal' around the plastic pressing on the glass is probably not stopping the draught from coming into the room. Try sliding a piece of paper between the rubber and the glass - if there's a gap, fresh, damp air comes into the room. Prove it another way - roll some cling film up and lay it along the seals and see if it stops it. Or maybe temporarily put some vaseline along the rubber to seal the gap???
Why will sealing any notional gap help?
vent vent vent vent, don't forget to put the saucepan lids ON also.
@@SkillBuilder because it stops damp air coming straight in and condensing on the glass. Otherwise it's just making the room damper and damper (and colder) - just like having a window ajar
I live in a Victorian flat with modern windows. The chimneys were unsound and removed and sealed up decades ago. The condensation can be something evil. It took me ages to figure out that there is no ventilation except to open the windows. There are no air bricks. The house is a sealed unit.
Building regs changed on15th June 2022 so all new double glazing has to have trickle vents, are they open? We get condensation on the bottom 2" of our conservatory windows when it is very cold outside but only since we got two dogs (they sleep in the conservatory - it is open to the house and has a proper roof so not cold). We bought a dehumidifier and it clears any condensation in about an hour, it's also great for when the other half does the ironing in the conservatory.
Surprised he didn’t mention trickle vents. For some weird reason whoever fitted the windows in the house I live in now, fitted trickle vents in the downstairs north facing windows but not in the upstairs ones. If we get around to replacing these windows at some point, I intend to have trickle vents on all the windows. Maybe the new windows installed in this video example don’t have trickle vents which makes the issues much worse? I have a dehumidifier sat in the corner of our problem bedroom with a separate battery powered sensor on top. If I notice the moisture is getting too high, I run it for about half a day and that tends to get rid of the problem for a while. I only need to do this in Winter
Buy a dehumidifier ,easy! it solved my condensation in my bedroom.
Could try sleeping in a different room and see if the condensation follows you
"See if it follows you" 😂😂😂 like in a John Carpenter film.
Or breathing through a length of hosepipe with the other end outside 🤔💦
Would insulation on the internal wall to make that wall warmer? To reduce cold spots? I have had a brick air vent fitted and do keep the window slightly open and we don't close the bedroom door as this seems to make it worse so we try to keep air flow
If you warm the wall up the moisture is still there and will condense eventually.
Ok thanks for the reply Roger, thought it would help as it reduces cold spots for the moisture to condense on? Obviously with the other measures we are taking, keeping the window on latch and open when we can for ventilation and air circulation.
Strange thing condensation..........
We recently had central heating and double glazing installed in our Victorian two bed flat and have no issues at all.
My wife hangs washing inside to dry and no issues.
We have a window open throughout the night .
Showering brings no problems in the bathroom which doesn't have an extractor.
Our daughter lives in a cottage flat with new double glazing and central heating and has water streaming down her windows.
Put condensation cups around the house which seems to help
Only difference i can see is our old Victorian front door is not totally sealed so the large hall has some fresh air exchange.
Strange indeed, I would hazard a guess that your Victorian building has lime plaster and maybe solid walls which are uninsulated.
Heat travels to cold and with it goes a lot of airborne moisture. This will be soaked up by the lime plaster and carried through the masonry to the outside. The walls may therefore act as a buffer.
Are some of your walls and or floor shared by neighbours? In other words are you gaining heat from another property?
It would be interesting to look at your daughter's home. What is it built from, is it surrounded by vegetation etc. There are so many factors to consider.
Thanks for that....
We've lived in this flat for 45 years and only recently installed double glazing and gas central heating. Never experienced any mould or condensation problems although we did have freezing ice build up during past cold winters on our old single glazed sash windows. Nothing like that in the last thirty years so climate change.........?
Our flat is indeed second floor sandwiched between our neighbours. Built in 1904 with several lath and plaster walls whereas our daughter's cottage flat looks more like a 1950's construction.
Get a bigger dehumidifier, like 20L or above, if you do not have a drain hole for the water to go, and if you do not want to empty the water tank from time to time.
I highly recommend a dehumidifier in this situation
As a wise old man once said to me, you can insulate, get triple glazed windows and the condensation will still be there.
It’s the production of the condensation and its collection that you can control.
With my experience, condensation on the double glazing. In 70% cases. I solved it by replacing gas inside the glazing. Basically doing it properly.
We've got a new build now and i was surprised to learn that the top floor has a vapour barrier behind the ceiling. Would this not have a detrimental effect on the moisture escaping?