As a flashlight enthusiast, I am most interested in the charts from the lux meter, because they show the scale of data manipulation. Because let's say we need to walk in the mountains or in the forest and we need stable power. One manufacturer gives a high power of 1200lm, the other 800lm. In this 1200 it works an hour longer according to the data. So people buy 1200 and longer lamps, and they do not realize that the 1200lm power drops to 400lm, and the 800 lamp shines with a power of 550lm. This is how you manipulate customers - "marketing"...
For example, I have a GP flashlight. Its power is also 600lm, BUT for 40 seconds and drops to 300lm. And that's not over yet. From 300lm it drops to about 130lm within half an hour and this power is relatively stable. So in practice, the constant power is 130lm from the given data of 600lm. Fortunately, it was cheap, and the Fenix hm65r is 4x more expensive and the power also drops to 130-180lm. This is the "magic" of technical data on paper.
My Fenix HM65RT drops too much so I decided to sell it. I like constant brightness like Armytek. Lens is also important sir. Thanks for watching and your support sir. Please subscribe 😊🙏.
@@weerapatkiatdumrongI managed to buy an hm65r super raptor from the Finnish market. There are no programmed power drops in this version. The only biggest drop is from 1000lm to about 700lm. In flood mode it is over 300lm depending on the temperature. What's strange is that the "normal" versions are so praised, and only a few comments from conscious consumers show that they return these flashlights when they buy them online (this is possible in Poland).
@@weerapatkiatdumrongYou can remember my nickname and don't encourage me to subscribe, because I've been here for a long time and have been writing comments ;). I always support with a like and a comment. I also contribute because it's my hobby. Greetings from Poland 🙂
@@weerapatkiatdumrongAs for the operating time in the technical data, see the data of the fenix hm65r SUPER RAPTOR. This already shows a lot. The operating time is 3x shorter because it shines 3x brighter. Although the parameters on paper, newer versions have better
I have this light. I removed the bands & use it as a bike light. I very seldom use 600lm because I find the medium setting (155lm) is bright enough to see ahead in dim-lit conditions & complete darkness. The throw & runtime (10hrs at medium) is more than enough for my night riding needs.
Hello sir. I can't agree more sir. Medium is enough. I just thought that it would be great if it had warmer tint. Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊. Please subscribe 🙏.
For slow driving, you can set it to a short distance so as not to blind other people. However, as "high beam" for faster driving, 600-1000lm is needed. And in this headlamp, the power quickly drops, probably to about 250-300lm, because at higher power it would burn out - the reflectors are too small.
@@stefanp5261 I agree. It has sufficient spill so I just point it low. I find the medium setting (155lm) is good enough for fast bike riding and with all the airflow, it doesn't get too hot even when I max it out at 600lm (which I seldom do).
Too weak for this size. Lamps too small. Nowadays, 600lm is low for an aluminum headlamp (unless it is a stable power, then it is a lot). The maximum power that companies strive for is most often from several seconds to several minutes, and then the power drops to 350-550lm, most often even among the most famous and expensive manufacturers.
As a flashlight enthusiast, I am most interested in the charts from the lux meter, because they show the scale of data manipulation. Because let's say we need to walk in the mountains or in the forest and we need stable power. One manufacturer gives a high power of 1200lm, the other 800lm. In this 1200 it works an hour longer according to the data. So people buy 1200 and longer lamps, and they do not realize that the 1200lm power drops to 400lm, and the 800 lamp shines with a power of 550lm. This is how you manipulate customers - "marketing"...
For example, I have a GP flashlight. Its power is also 600lm, BUT for 40 seconds and drops to 300lm. And that's not over yet. From 300lm it drops to about 130lm within half an hour and this power is relatively stable. So in practice, the constant power is 130lm from the given data of 600lm. Fortunately, it was cheap, and the Fenix hm65r is 4x more expensive and the power also drops to 130-180lm. This is the "magic" of technical data on paper.
My Fenix HM65RT drops too much so I decided to sell it. I like constant brightness like Armytek. Lens is also important sir. Thanks for watching and your support sir. Please subscribe 😊🙏.
@@weerapatkiatdumrongI managed to buy an hm65r super raptor from the Finnish market. There are no programmed power drops in this version. The only biggest drop is from 1000lm to about 700lm. In flood mode it is over 300lm depending on the temperature. What's strange is that the "normal" versions are so praised, and only a few comments from conscious consumers show that they return these flashlights when they buy them online (this is possible in Poland).
@@weerapatkiatdumrongYou can remember my nickname and don't encourage me to subscribe, because I've been here for a long time and have been writing comments ;). I always support with a like and a comment. I also contribute because it's my hobby. Greetings from Poland 🙂
@@weerapatkiatdumrongAs for the operating time in the technical data, see the data of the fenix hm65r SUPER RAPTOR. This already shows a lot. The operating time is 3x shorter because it shines 3x brighter. Although the parameters on paper, newer versions have better
@@weerapatkiatdumrongThere is also a black version of Super Raptor 2 for the Scandinavian market.
I have this light. I removed the bands & use it as a bike light. I very seldom use 600lm because I find the medium setting (155lm) is bright enough to see ahead in dim-lit conditions & complete darkness. The throw & runtime (10hrs at medium) is more than enough for my night riding needs.
Hello sir. I can't agree more sir. Medium is enough. I just thought that it would be great if it had warmer tint. Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊. Please subscribe 🙏.
For slow driving, you can set it to a short distance so as not to blind other people. However, as "high beam" for faster driving, 600-1000lm is needed. And in this headlamp, the power quickly drops, probably to about 250-300lm, because at higher power it would burn out - the reflectors are too small.
@@weerapatkiatdumrong yup, a warmer tint would be a nice addition to this light.
(I'm already one of your subscribers, brother 😃)
@@stefanp5261 I agree. It has sufficient spill so I just point it low. I find the medium setting (155lm) is good enough for fast bike riding and with all the airflow, it doesn't get too hot even when I max it out at 600lm (which I seldom do).
i see TRUSTFIRE is trying to make a comeback lol
Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊🙏.
How do you replace the rubber strap if it is damaged?
Hello sir. Just buy a new one sir. Sofirn, Wurkkos are fine sir. Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊. Please subscribe 🙏.
Nice review man. By the way is it removable 18650 battery? Or its a build in battery?
Hello sir. Replaceable battery sir. Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊. Please subscribe 🙏.
👍👍👍❤
สวัสดีครับ ขอบคุณที่รับชมนะครับ😊🙏
155 lm medium, jump to 600 lm high
Hello sir. Yes. I think it should be something like 400 lm before 600 lm. Hello sir. Thanks for watching and your support sir 😊. Please subscribe 🙏.
Too weak for this size. Lamps too small. Nowadays, 600lm is low for an aluminum headlamp (unless it is a stable power, then it is a lot). The maximum power that companies strive for is most often from several seconds to several minutes, and then the power drops to 350-550lm, most often even among the most famous and expensive manufacturers.